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Alrighty! So Amelia's exterior is just about finished now. All that's left are the exterior hatches/boxes that are on the sides in the rear of the camper. Previously, one held the hot water heater and the other held two propane tanks. We won't be doing it the same way (as is becoming our style). After living in our Vanagon for two years we got used to living without certain comforts so we won't have a water heater (or a shower for that matter). In the vacancy left by the water heater we will be putting a pull out cook top (for outdoor cooking) and storage. On the other side we will be going from 2 propane tanks to 1. The only thing using propane will be our cooktop on the inside so it will be plenty (fridge is electric, no water heater, no furnace). By going down to one propane tank we also get back some storage on the inside. We drew up some plans for what we wanted and worked with a local metal fabricator to bring our vision to life. They did a killer job! The boxes are made of aluminum and they both have cam locks. We got them as bare aluminum so we needed to drill holes in them and paint as well. To install them we used rivets and Sikaflex to create a seal. 

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Sketched plans

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Back from the fabricator

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Test fits

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Primer

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Drilling holes

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Paint

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Looking sharp!

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Getting the sliders and bracket ready for cooktop

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Finished support for cooktop

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All done!

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In their homes!

More details at the blog:

http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/2018/build-out-week-12

http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/2018/build-out-week-15

 

 

 

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Looking good, actually looking awesome. I've jumped ahead and went through wk 17. A well thought electrical system. A possible addition to what you have, an ATS.

Set it up so that the output of the inverter goes to one input and the camper ac power cord goes to the priority input. The ATS output goes to the input for your ac fuse panel. That way ALL of your in house 110v ac outlets will be powered no matter what. Does your inverter have a totally off function? Some of the inverters will draw power if they are not working.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PowerMax-30-Amp-Automatic-RV-Generator-Transfer-Switch-PMTS-30-F30-ATS/382400677311?hash=item5908db45bf:g:Ow0AAOSw1cNaBTUi&vxp=mtr

Edited by WME
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18 hours ago, WME said:

Looking good, actually looking awesome. I've jumped ahead and went through wk 17. A well thought electrical system. A possible addition to what you have, an ATS.

Set it up so that the output of the inverter goes to one input and the camper ac power cord goes to the priority input. The ATS output goes to the input for your ac fuse panel. That way ALL of your in house 110v ac outlets will be powered no matter what. Does your inverter have a totally off function? Some of the inverters will draw power if they are not working.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PowerMax-30-Amp-Automatic-RV-Generator-Transfer-Switch-PMTS-30-F30-ATS/382400677311?hash=item5908db45bf:g:Ow0AAOSw1cNaBTUi&vxp=mtr

That's a great idea. It'd be great to have that stuff automated. Right now we are using our inverter as the plugs though, so would that still work? They will be our only two 100V outlets. Almost everything we have runs on 12V. We only have our laptop chargers and a blender and both have sufficient cord length to reach down to where the inverter is. It does have a totally off function as well! That was one of the requirements when we were looking at them. I still don't know exactly what I'm going to do for the shore power. I've got the plug installed and have wire in it, it just goes to nothing right now. I was leaning towards running them straight to a battery charger so that when we do have shore power we can just constantly be recharging while using everything else normally. We so rarely use shore power that I didn't put it high on the priority list of figuring things out but we're starting to get down there in things to do and it still needs a solution. 

So far the electrical system has been a dream! With the Victron charge controller and battery monitors I can see the amp current in real time. Using everything except the inverter and water pump our draw is ~7.7A. Turning the fans off I drop to ~5.8A. Dimming the lights takes a good bit off too. I also can look through the history of the charge controller and battery monitor so that I can see how many Ah I've drawn over the entire life of the system, max discharge, etc. I'm waiting on a bidirectional ACR in the mail that will then allow us to charge the house batteries while driving and charge the start battery while sitting. So hopefully we'll never be stranded with a dead starter battery! 

Went out to the truck and opened the app up so I could take some screenshots for you.

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Status when I opened it up and history.

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Everything on in the left image and turned off the vent fans in the right image. 

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Solar panel status and history. It stops bringing in energy when the battery is at 100% to protect from overcharging so that's why it's all low numbers. 

Overall we're super happy with how it's all working so far but we haven't really gotten to test it yet so I'll be sure to report back on how it works "in the field". 

 

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1 hour ago, Boundfornowhere said:

. I'm waiting on a bidirectional ACR in the mail that will then allow us to charge the house batteries while driving and charge the start battery while sitting. So hopefully we'll never be stranded with a dead starter battery! 

Oh, now you have made me go back and squint at your set up photos. I thought you had a Cyrix-ct 120A-230A, if I squint hard enough I see you have a Cyrix Li-charge. So what type of house battery do you have and what are you using as a charger?

Again squinting at weeks worth of photos I see now that you removed all the 110v ac outlets, I thought you still had some else where. I dont know if your inverter outputs are in or out of phase. Anyway with out more 110v ac outlets an ATS is not much help. Using your inverter as planned will work.  So wiring your charger to the shore power cord is a valid plan

This is what I ended up with in my Toy, it does it all. http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/inverter-chargers/freedom-hfs.aspx

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8 hours ago, Derek up North said:

I've got to ask. What size tires do you have? It looks like you have zero clearance.

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Perhaps it's an illusion? We have fairly good clearance by Sunrader standards. We got it with 225/75/15s and that's what's in this picture. We JUST got some new wheels and tires though for the full float conversion :D The new ones are 255/70/15s. I tried not to get too much bigger than the stock diameter but also wanted to get something wider since we're reducing to a single wheel in the back. 

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10 hours ago, WME said:

Oh, now you have made me go back and squint at your set up photos. I thought you had a Cyrix-ct 120A-230A, if I squint hard enough I see you have a Cyrix Li-charge. So what type of house battery do you have and what are you using as a charger?

Again squinting at weeks worth of photos I see now that you removed all the 110v ac outlets, I thought you still had some else where. I dont know if your inverter outputs are in or out of phase. Anyway with out more 110v ac outlets an ATS is not much help. Using your inverter as planned will work.  So wiring your charger to the shore power cord is a valid plan

This is what I ended up with in my Toy, it does it all. http://www.xantrex.com/power-products/inverter-chargers/freedom-hfs.aspx

So long story short, I ordered the CT and ended up with the Charge because they were out of CTs. I talked to Victron and they told me I really should be using the CT. So now I'm waiting in the mail for the CT (it's taking a while because they had a rough time with all the snow I guess in the Northeast lately). In the pictures I was using the charge to mock everything up and cut wires since they are the same size. The Charge is uni directional and the CT is bidirectional. 

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3 minutes ago, Derek up North said:

I'm talking about sidewall (between the tires) clearance. I think you're talking about tire clearance to the Sunrader body. But if you're changing to single rims, it's a moot point. :)

Ohhhhh. I'd go out and see for you but the singles are already on!

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OK on the CT vs the Charge makes perfect sense now :P. So what type of house batteries are you using and what is your charger.  I'm assuming that you have removed the complete 110v ac system

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34 minutes ago, WME said:

OK on the CT vs the Charge makes perfect sense now :P. So what type of house batteries are you using and what is your charger.  I'm assuming that you have removed the complete 110v ac system

We have 2 12V 125Ah Stark Power Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries. They have internal BMS and also come with an app so we can monitor their status from there as well.  https://starkpower.com/product/12-volt-125ah-battery

There is absolutely no 110V except the plugs from the inverter right now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KDDSXQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The charger I was thinking of wiring into the shore power is one that we already have and love. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LX14Z2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Wow that is a serious set of batteries.

Li batteries are very weird, wonderful and temperamental. I have used them for years in other uses. The batteries you are using have a BMS built in so most of the weirdness is taken care of. The charger looks good

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4 hours ago, WME said:

Wow that is a serious set of batteries.

Li batteries are very weird, wonderful and temperamental. I have used them for years in other uses. The batteries you are using have a BMS built in so most of the weirdness is taken care of. The charger looks good

Yeah those batteries aren't messing around! Got the CT today so I'll have that in soon and I'll let you know how it works!

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On 3/29/2018 at 12:40 PM, WME said:

Wow that is a serious set of batteries.

Li batteries are very weird, wonderful and temperamental. I have used them for years in other uses. The batteries you are using have a BMS built in so most of the weirdness is taken care of. The charger looks good

I got the CT installed and I ran the positive to where the positive went to before. I don't think it's going to work though because it's reading the starting battery voltage at 0.03V. I'm thinking I just need to run the positive straight to the battery terminal. Do you have any experience with this stuff?

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Ok lets hope we can get to an apples to apples situation and not apples to oranges:wacko:

Reference point is wk 17, the 4th picture after the picture of you with the 2 sparking cables. This is what I'm using.

Where are the house batteries connected?  Where is the truck battery connected?

You need to decide if you want to use the house batteries as just a booster for the starter or if you want to actually want to start the truck from the house batteries.

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47 minutes ago, WME said:

Ok lets hope we can get to an apples to apples situation and not apples to oranges:wacko:

Reference point is wk 17, the 4th picture after the picture of you with the 2 sparking cables. This is what I'm using.

Where are the house batteries connected?  Where is the truck battery connected?

You need to decide if you want to use the house batteries as just a booster for the starter or if you want to actually want to start the truck from the house batteries.

House batteries are not going to aid the starter at all for actual starting. The ACR is bi-directional so it opens the relay whenever it senses "charging voltage" from one side. The problem is that right now it's reading the starter's voltage at 0.03V even when the car is running so it will never open the relay for the alternator to charge the house batteries. I ran the line for the ACR to a terminal that was used in the stock set up to charge the house battery thinking that would work fine. Don't really know where it goes, just sort of blindly trusted it and that obviously wasn't the best move. It won't work because of the "smart" technology in the ACR. I think I'm just going to need to run the line from the ACR, straight to the positive of the starter battery so it can start reading proper voltage. 

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So you are suffering from the dreaded previous owner wiring syndrome. When I redid my Escaper house battery charging system I found 7 different wires between the under hood isolator and the house battery including 2 connections with wire nuts. I gained over 1 volt at the house battery with a single run of 6ga.

OK if your not going to use the house batteries to emergency start the truck then run a fresh 6-8ga wire from the CT post 87 to the truck battery +. The house batteries need the same gauge wire to post 30 on the CT. Because then all the CT would be handling is the solar and alternator charge current. Also a small gauge sense wire  from the - terminal on the fuse block to post 86 on the CT. If you want to emergency start the truck from the house batteries through the CT then you should run 2/0 wire. 

Speaking of under hood isolator do you still have one? With the CT you  don't need it, so go direct. Also for safety sake install a 50 CB at the battery to feed the charging cable. That your stuff is protected in the event that the charging cable shorts to ground. Then something like a 200 amp fuse between the house batteries and the inverter as your inverter will be drawing something around 100 amps when it starts the blender and as much as 40 amps just running it. A general rule of thumb is what ever your ac load is in amps multiply than number by 10 to get an idea of your dc amp draw. A 50 amp breaker between the house battery and house load is part of the plan too.

Where is your chassis ground connected to?

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36 minutes ago, WME said:

So you are suffering from the dreaded previous owner wiring syndrome. When I redid my Escaper house battery charging system I found 7 different wires between the under hood isolator and the house battery including 2 connections with wire nuts. I gained over 1 volt at the house battery with a single run of 6ga.

OK if your not going to use the house batteries to emergency start the truck then run a fresh 6-8ga wire from the CT post 87 to the truck battery +. The house batteries need the big gauge wire you are using to post 30 on the CT. And a small gauge sense wire  from the - terminal on the fuse block to post 86 on the CT. 

Speaking of under hood isolator do you still have one? With the CT you  don't need it, so go direct. Also for safety sake install a 50 CB at the battery to feed the charging cable. That your stuff is protected in the event that the charging cable shorts to ground. Then something like a 200 amp fuse between the house batteries and the inverter as your inverter will be drawing something around 140 amps when it starts the blender and as much as 60 amps just running it. A 50 amp breaker between the house battery and house load is part of the plan too.

Where is your chassis ground connected to?

I just rewired it straight to the battery (4AWG). I've got fuses for the inverter and on both sides of the CT so I should be good there. 

As for the CT problems... Let's pretend I never had issues. I realized I was being dumb.:rolleyes:  I was looking at my battery monitor and I don't have anything hooked up to the second port of the shunt. That would be why it wasn't reading anything for the "starter" battery. You can change the label of that to whatever you hook it up to. The CT unfortunately doesn't have an app like everything else seemingly does so I guess I just have to trust that it's working. It's hard to really know right now since the battery is always at 100%. 

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Remove the CT lead from the truck battery and turn on the head lights for a half hour. Then hook things back up and see what the meter shows.

Edited by WME
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Amelia's starting to look good on the outside, but the inside needs some love too. Up next for us was the ceiling. The first part we decided to tackle was the weird bit in the back. It's kind of a rounded step and was previously covered in carpet which makes sense since carpet is flexible enough to follow the curves of the roof. Unfortunately, carpet isn't a part of our design plan so we needed to figure something else out. We started by adding some supports, then insulated, and covered it with cork underlayment. The cork is flexible enough to follow the curves and will compliment our floors, which will also be cork. 

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All covered up!

Now the fun part starts! We added a few degrees of difficulty to our ceiling installation by having exposed "rafters". You might have noticed them in some of the pictures. They are dark planks that we are using for additional support for the upper cabinets. Because of the rafters we needed to divide our ceiling into five separate pieces! We're also adding in recessed LED lights in ceiling so we needed to add holes for those AND the holes for the roof vents. The extra fun part (at least for me) was that with the lights going into the ceiling, I got to do some electrical work (my favorite part of the whole process!). 

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Hole for vents

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Good fit!

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Holes for lights.

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Fresh paint. In the right image they are lined up in order, left is the rear and right is the front. 

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Wiring lights together with some 3 way connectors. Later I found some better ones for this scenario. With the ones pictured I needed to cover the centers because they weren't insulated and I didn't want to risk the positive and negatives touching and shorting the lights. 

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Insulation going in!

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First panel in.

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Panel 2. We did the panels with lights first so we could get the wiring squared away. 

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:D 

This was a huge step for us mentally. Things had been dragging for a while and to see some progress like this gave us a huge boost. As previously mentioned some electrical stuff had to be done to get these lights installed. We ran all the wires for the lights, fans, solar, USBs during this time so that they could be behind the walls. The inverter, fridge, and water pump we will run through the bench seats. For wiring we laid in some halves of PVC to help keep wires organized and protected. We also used LOTS of zip ties. 

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Epoxy curing

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Epoxy cured and wires in place

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Unfortunately I bought some of the unruly 10AWG wire from Home Depot for the solar and I regretted it during this part of the process. It hates making turns and the coating on it is a pain. In the end it's fine, it just drove me crazy during this bit.  MAK01311.thumb.jpg.625aa5e6742c854674cee874ec79bff8.jpg

Testing lights and dimmer switches (it worked)!

More information on all these processes and more over here:

http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/2018/build-out-week-13

 

Edited by Boundfornowhere
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  • 1 month later...
On 5/8/2018 at 10:04 PM, Tozee said:

I see you've fixed and installed a lot of the truck parts.  Seems like it almost finished. Nice work! By the way, any new updates or additions to the renovation?

LOTS of updates I need to put up here. Just been really busy during the home stretch! We just finished up the whole thing minus the full float axle conversion. It's been a nightmare ?Hoping to figure out that stuff soon so we can get fully on the road. 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

By any chance does anyone have a rear fender flare for a Sunrader. Ours is a 1985 (not sure if there are differences). We had a the wheel fly off on the highway and it left our fender in two pieces. As far as the cause, we aren't 100% sure. We got it back from the shop the day before where they had done the FROR Full Float conversion. Right now, the shop suspects that the lug nuts weren't seated properly (or weren't tightened). Either way, we need a fender. If anyone has one that they'd be willing to sell to us, that would be fantastic. Thank you!

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Sad day for us. We were officially leaving to live on the road. Obviously, we're going to have put that on hold. 

Edited by Boundfornowhere
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wow, so sorry for you. hope you get on the road again soon. I have seen fender flares on the internet, maybe E TRAILER ??, the ones I looked at were close in size to what you have, not an exact match, maybe someone can guide you to an original replacement. good luck, hang in there. joe from dover.

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4 hours ago, Derek up North said:

Too bad you're not near me or I'd offer to stick those 2 pieces of fiberglass back together for you.

While we're waiting to hear from potential options we're actually attempting to do that. Do you have any recommendations on how you would approach reconnecting them? There's a gap that needs to be bridged that's small on one side, but about 5" on the other. 

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5 hours ago, Boundfornowhere said:

While we're waiting to hear from potential options we're actually attempting to do that. Do you have any recommendations on how you would approach reconnecting them? There's a gap that needs to be bridged that's small on one side, but about 5" on the other. 

Fiberglass mat on the inside and Bondo on the outside to fill it. Lots of room inside so make it thick enough to be strong. No one will see it. I hope you saved your gasket that was on there. No more of it anywhere.

Linda S

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17 hours ago, linda s said:

Fiberglass mat on the inside and Bondo on the outside to fill it. Lots of room inside so make it thick enough to be strong. No one will see it. I hope you saved your gasket that was on there. No more of it anywhere.

Linda S

The gasket is long gone unfortunately. When we took off our fenders to paint the body they were in rough shape and we decided not to put them back on. 

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2 hours ago, Boundfornowhere said:

The gasket is long gone unfortunately. When we took off our fenders to paint the body they were in rough shape and we decided not to put them back on. 

Well if you were ok with them being gone it doesn't really matter.  You can make them look fine I'm sure. Unfortunately it does take time and pretty sure your tired of fixing stuff

Linda S

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Shape Styrofoam as needed, glue it in to remaining pieces. Rough sand it a bit undersized. Use mat or heavy glass cloth. Make it a bit thicker than needed and sand to shape.

If the foam blocks mounting just pour some gas on the foam and it will desolve.

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Thanks for all the advice everyone. We got it back together and painted it and I think it turned out really well. Luckily the paint we are using (raptor liner) helps disguise a lot too. We're going to put it back on the body today (weather permitting). 

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A before and after. 

So since it was in two pieces we mounted it up to the body, making sure the holes that remained lined up properly. Then we put in rivets (but didn't actually install them, just used them as pegs) to hold it in place. We also taped them for added security. We then fiberglassed the pieces together at the shortest gap and let it cure. IMG_3610.thumb.JPG.a23e2eb4d5dc37e7c996eaf8c3096f76.JPG

Shortest gap is the left part here. 

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Then we took it off the body and got to work with the rest of the missing area. We used this silver duct work tape that we discovered by accident can peel off pretty easily from fiberglass. Sometimes it sticks a small amount but it's easy to scrape or sand off.

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After getting the front finished up, we moved on to the back side. 

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Once all that was cured, it got sanded down. We wiped it down and did some surface fairing to fill in pinholes. Then sanded again, and wiped it down. 

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Then all that was left was to paint it and drill a few new holes. The result of the paint was back at the top of this post. 

 

We'll get back to our regularly scheduled programming soon since we're done now, or at least we were till all this. Thanks again everyone!

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Quick pull a mold off both fender flares. In the future you can support your travels selling replacements to unfortunate owners who are in need.  With all the money your going to make you could find a custom rubber molding extruder and get a couple thousand ft of fender flare molding made. Its approaching its weight in gold value. ?

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