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Ceiling (SIP) replacement


256bit

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Alrighty so, I have read lots and lots of threads here and I'm familiar with the almighty SIP and it's fabled structural integrity.

However, my ceiling is far beyond repair. It's mostly delaminated, COVERED in mold (after sitting in washington for only 3 months), and rotting through.

Is there an ideal way to replace it? I've already got the rest of the interior stripped down to the fiberglass, if that helps. I would prefer not to add much in the way of thickness, as I already can't stand up in it (6')

Edited by 256bit
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That rotten paneling up there was part of the roof support. With some wood strips glued and fiberglassed to the roof you can add back some of the arch that was there in the beginning. Are your upper cabinets still in place. I know there's examples of doing this here somewhere but I can never find anything. Derek can find it if anyone can.

Here's one example but he just did the front overhead area

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/6820-87-sunrader-front-cab-build/

Linda S

 

 

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14 hours ago, linda s said:

That rotten paneling up there was part of the roof support. With some wood strips glued and fiberglassed to the roof you can add back some of the arch that was there in the beginning. Are your upper cabinets still in place. I know there's examples of doing this here somewhere but I can never find anything. Derek can find it if anyone can.

Here's one example but he just did the front overhead area

http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/6820-87-sunrader-front-cab-build/

Linda S

 

 

 

Hey Linda! The cabinets are gone. Because of the mold, I stripped the interior down to the fiberglass with the exception of the ceiling. I'll see what I can get done arch wise.

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The later Sunraders had ceiling beams to add strength to the roof too. My girlfriends husband made one for an 84 Sunrader they sold.

Instructions

MATERIALS:

One good quality straight grained red fir or spruce 2x4 8 ft long (or equivalent), with no large knots, 8 ft of 1 1/2" by 1/8" steel bar, primed and painted, Two 5/16" by 3" lag bolts with wide area flat washers (fender washers), several #10 by 1" wood screws, construction adhesive, and silicone caulk to seal outside when done.
 
Make a cardboard or paper pattern of the curvature of the roof where it is best preserved, usually at the front or rear where sagging has not occurred. Trim the 2x4 to fit snug from wall to wall then trim another 1/4 " off one end. Next transfer the pattern to one edge of  the 2x4 and saw the curve on a band saw so that you get an even cut. 
 
Cut the metal strap to a length that will allow full coverage of the curved edge of the 2x4 plus bending over both ends. Drill 3/16" holes every 12" or so in the strap and countersink each hole so that the heads of your wood screws will be flush when installed. Form the metal strap to the shape of the wood piece and bend it down over the ends for a tight fit. Do a trial fit to the motor home and adjust as needed. Mark the strap at the center of each end of the truss and drill a 5/16" hole at each of these marks through the metal only. These holes will be the anchor points for the ends of the truss. Now run a bead of construction adhesive along the curved edge of the board and install the strap with wood screws making sure everything is properly aligned as you go. Next, drill a 1/4"  pilot hole into the wood at each end where the previously drilled larger holes are located. 
 
Apply construction adhesive to the top of the truss and raise it into position inside the roof at desired location. You may need to force it up with bracing between the floor and the truss to get it into position. Measure the distance from a reference point on the motor home to the center line of the truss on each side of the vehicle. Next drill a 1/8" pilot hole from the outside through the fiberglass at each point making sure these holes coincide with the holes in the end of the truss. Once that is established you can drill the pilot hole out to 5/16" to install the lag bolts. Use rubber gaskets or sealant under the flat washers. Also cover the bolt heads with sealant or other waterproof cover. Now you can install upholstery and modify your upper cabinets to accommodate the truss.
 
DSC_0686.jpg
 
 
 

 

 

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