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Although i am tempted to tell you the full story of purchasing this '86 Sunrader 210RD and all the work that i have done to it so far (over the past year),  i am in a possible pickle currently and require some advise, counsel, et cetera. 

Okay.  First of all... yes, rig is over weight.  Significantly.  

(With me, tools, reinforces frame, custom hitch, and 194 lb Ruckus on the back.)

New tires.  Yes the full floating Axel.  Recently replaced rear Axel seal, bearing, races, grease, and differential.

Fluids and Belts changed.  Doing a slow flush on transmission, switching over to Amsoil Signature ATF.

Had previously took it on a 250 mile road test.

Currently, i am en route heading towards Texas, from the Willamette Valley in Oregon.  As I type this, i am in Salt Lake City, Utah.  On the way hear from Portland,  the first 100 miles, my rig averaged 17.7 mpg.  The next three fill ups averaged closer to 13.5mpg.  

In Portland, i put a quart of oil in it.  On the trip here, o.d. Seemed to go out.  Was going on and off at highway speeds just before going out.  There was a noticeable ticking near my left knee, somewhere in between the fuse box up to the left side heater vent.  Turned it off and kept it off.  Before leaving it off though, I noticed that the ticking was only active when the o.d. button was depressed.  

Here in Salt Lake, i discovered that my rig was near two quarts low on oil.  

How concerned should i be.  Will i be able to make it to Texas, or is this likely to stop my trip short?

Notes and Observations:

She does stall occasionally when putting in gear.  Possible idle control, if so, not a priority.

Otherwise seems to run fine.   

Seeking advise.

 

 

 

 

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Leave O/D OFF. Fill up with gas and let it sit for at least 5 min then check oil. Do this every time you fuel. I managed a trip with a sick engine, used a qt of oil every 150 mi.

Just keep the oil level up make sure you are using the dip stick correctly.

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22re 21 sunrader an 86 i have with efi.

I ran mine 2.5 quarts low once with no ill effects, just make sure to get it oiled up and check it at least every other tank.

you probably need valve adjustments, but no biggy to drive on as is. The electronic ticking sound is probably a solenoid going bad - that will prove to be much more fun to fix. OD is useless with the amount of weight you are running you shouldnt use it unless going down mountain.

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The oil is going somewhere (obviously). Leaking on the ground/outside the block? Getting in the coolant? Or getting in the combustion chamber and out the tailpipe. Try to figure out which. :)

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Most common spot for a 22RE to leak oil is the front crank seal and it's hard to see down in there. The OD system does have a relay that you might hear but it should not turn on and off except when engaged or turned off.

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the od definately clicks something off to the left of the cab, mine does same thing but doesnt chirp click like Blu's. Agree with all everyone has said... in my particular case, the seal was fine, no oil in coolant was just blowing it past valves and the tailpipe VERY sooty. In fact it clogged a Cat Converter and forced me to get new one. your cause may vary from mine and be one of those things mentioned above. Derek's idea is sound anyway, the pcv is cheap and easy to replace. i swap in new ones periodically just for fun since they so cheap.

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Thank you all for the swift replies.  It is quite chilly here in Northern Utah.  Will like to continue heading south.  

Okay... will check PVC valve.  Not certain what I am looking for there.  Cracks?  Oil leaking out?  Perhaps will simply replace that as per Derek's and Totem's advise.  

Will again check coolant to see if there is any oil there.  Also, the tail pipe.  

With front crank case seal... where am I looking for oil leakage?   

Engine looks pretty clean.   There is one possible point of seepage on the block? Beneath the injector manifol(approximately 12" or so).

The aforementioned ticking from o.d. (Relay?) first was noticed as a tick tick tick, about one per second.  In the next ten miles of playing with it, the ticking' tempo increased.   Now, the o.d. Does not come back on.   Is it possibly a relay?  Perhaps it is a good idea to leave it off anyway.   Should I expect a steep reduction in mpg?   

Also, I did give it a valve adjustment this past Spring.  

 

 

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A "good" PVC will rattle when you shake it. Just go to a parts store and shake a new one and  see if sounds like yours.

If the front seal is leaking the bottom of the engine will be covered with oil.

Most Toys get the same MPG with or with out O/D so no loss.

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Thanks again to all.   Will check a few things and report back.  

 

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Upon closer inspection...

This is what i have found:

-only oil leak spotted seems to be coming from where (oem) oil filter mounts.

-some nominal (yet seemingly recent) seepage from oiler filler cap, pcv grommet area, and valve screws.  

Purchased new pcv.  Will replace when i figure how to correctly remove existing.

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Replaced pcv valve.  The existing one did rattle, somlikely okay?

Any suggestions?   Will give oil change soon, and replace filter.

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The oil filter is the wrong one and the gasket is not sealing, its the right filter but not tight.

The oil pressure sensor is failing and is leaking.

The rocker covers is leaking and the oil is running down the side of block.

Edited by WME

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The amount of oil you are going through I'm still betting on the crank seal right behind the lower pulley like I said it's hard to see down there go after it with a good flashlight it's a real common leak on a 22RE and it will leak a lot of oil.  It's pain to fix but it isn't a real hard job just a bit of a time consumer.

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Seems like a lot of oil is being lost.  Tail pipe is not real sooty.

Underside of engine is looking pretty good, save for the oil on and just below the filter sealing surface.  

WME and Maineah, do you reckon that I will be good to travel another 2k before getting into this repair?  Pros and cons?

 

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Seems like a lot of oil is being lost.  Tail pipe is not real sooty.

Underside of engine is looking pretty good, save for the oil on and just below the filter sealing surface.  

WME and Maineah, do you reckon that I will be good to travel another 2k before getting into this repair?  Pros and cons?

Not sure how relevant this is...

yet, although the tailpipe is not all sooty and stuff... it is moist(seems like water).

When first started and pulling away, there is a significant amount of white smoke that comes out of tail pipe.  

Soon afterward, it does seem to clear up.  Was told this may be the cat, blowing off steam?

 

 

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White smoke like that is usually valve seals but that will not cause a huge oil loss all of a sudden. So you can probably go 150-180 miles on a tank of fuel check it each time until you can deal with it.

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Not too worried about a head gasket because then instead of showing low it would be full of water. There's always some condensation that blows off when you start it and moisture around tailpipe. As long as water isn't flowing out of tailpipe. So the only place you see oil is the filter? Maybe the seal is bad or it's just loose or not threaded right. That would be an easy fix.

Linda S

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Make sure you don't have two gaskets under the oil filter. Sometimes the old one will stick to the block and the new gasket won't seal correctly.

White exhaust smoke denotes water getting into the combustion chamber. It could be a head gasket issue (hope not).

Another good check; with the engine at operating temperature, pull the oil dip stick and let a few drops go onto the hot exhaust manifold. If the oil just "smokes" your fine. If it "sizzles" you've got water mixed with the oil.

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The overdrive has an altitude sensor that turns the od off at about 2500 ft.  Mine turns off at about 2400 according to the altimeter on my gps.  I am lucky that I found out about this before my first trip to higher elevations or I would have thought that the tranny was broken.

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Even on an 86? Wow i just learned something; had no clue they could do that; dont think the 86 has the head gasket issue either

Edited by Totem

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if you were leaking tons of oil out crank seal it should be somewhere... underneath the vehicle. if its valve seals it will burn. time to get a fridge sized cardboard box under it for a few days and check leak after getting it driving to heat it up.

Edited by Totem

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if the oil leak is in the oil filter area, I would grab the filter and see if it will spin tighter - rightey tightey.  If engine is hot the oil filter will be hot too. it should be hand tight - if you can turn it with your hand (without using a lot of force) it is loose. 

Also I would get the part number off the filter and see if it is correct for your engine,  please post  oil filter make & number  

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