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Right around the same time Badgerbear posted about this same issue, I started noticing it on my driver's side rear axle: wet/dirty hub, strong smell of gear oil. Finally got time to start digging into the problem tonight (and, btw, I'm super-thankful for the great tips and photos that were posted in BB's earlier thread!).

Once I got the darn cone washers out, I got a good look inside the hub, and everything is nasty/filthy in there! Can't wait to get that all cleaned up, looking good, with new grease. Anyway, it didn't take long to see what was causing the leak... the outer seal is totally wonky and off-center, as you can see in this photo (sorry, working outside in the dark; poor lighting).
 

91-warrior-axle-outer-seal.thumb.jpg.1988c79af782b72bab89bfdba8a58afd.jpg

 

When I bought this Toy about 2 years ago, the PO told me that he had just had the rear brakes serviced to the tune of several hundred $$$, and I'm guessing that somebody didn't get that outer seal installed correctly (or, could it have moved somehow?). Fortunately, the inner seal was working great and the inside brake area was completely dry; everything in really good shape there. So, I'm going to replace the damaged seal, and check the bearings and repack 'em. I do have a few questions about all this, for the gurus:

  1. I'll need to pull the inner seal out to remove the inboard bearing for inspection/repacking, so... should I probably plan on replacing that seal too, given that it could get torn up during extraction?
  2. There seemed to be some sort of paper gasket material visible around the hub (see in above photo) once I pulled the axle. I haven't heard anybody mention a gasket like that—would black RTV sealant work as a replacement? Recommendations?
  3. Not really a question, but... I don't know how much fluid has been lost, so I probably better count on topping off the differential when I'm done.
  4. I banged up one of the six hub studs (see below) and put a nice, little curve in it, while trying to get a really stubborn cone washer loose. Will I need to order this from Toyota or is there another good source? (Links always appreciated!)

    91-warrior-hub-bolt.thumb.jpg.2d446108b7a5c5418bcef2aff5430d0b.jpg

 

Thanks for looking, guys/gals. Appreciate the help!

Edited by Ctgriffi
added another question

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Found this kit on eBay for the axle studs, nuts, and washers. Might as well replace all those gnarly pieces while I'm in there, for $20. http://tinyurl.com/yawxxle2

 

 

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Nice find. Maybe you can confirm (once installed) that they're the correct ones. I get mixed results when I check the auction for 1992 'will they fit' compatibility.

 

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I know the PN for the stud itself is correct in the kit, so it seemed safe to assume all the rest was kosher, too. I will post again to confirm, yep.

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Can somebody confirm just how far the outer seal should be driven into the axle tube? (I tapped it all the way in, until it contacted the metal shoulder inside.) But, this photo seems to show the seal just slightly inboard of the axle tube's outer edge... what's the correct/approved placement?

 

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Hi, 

I just replaced the rear axle with a 1 ton dually and I placed the inner seal just inside the axle housing almost flush.  Honestly, I don't think it matters as long as it makes contact with the axle shaft.  Also, I had two broken studs and I was able to find generic replacements from orchard supply hardware.  Also found suitable replacements at O'Reillys.  The best thing to do is measure the space in between the two stud ends, because that is the most important part.  If you can find something with the same spacing in the center, the outer parts of the stud can be a little longer and it will function perfectly fine.

Cheers,

Rob

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Well, good, Derek, cause that's exactly what I did. I figured that it might keep the seal from twisting/warping in there, possibly, with the support of that shoulder. Thanks for the input. 

Also, thanks for the advice on the studs, Rob, but I went with a kit that has all six studs and new washers/nuts from eBay. It came yesterday and all looks identical; I'll report back after installation. 

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Never reuse an old seal. If you pull it, replace it.

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On 10/18/2017 at 6:31 AM, fred heath said:

Never reuse an old seal. If you pull it, replace it.

Good advice. I went with the Timken seals, which cost a little more (still cheap), but seem like good quality.

So, another question: I've got the hub installed again with the bearing lock plate and lock nut adjusted (I have done a few bearing jobs before). Can somebody explain what this diagram from the "1-Ton Axle Bearings PDF" is all about? I've looked at this several times and can't seem to get my head around it... just don't want to overlook something important.

bearing-lock-nut-diagram.jpg.444d8b4ce2a148392836972108e0be5d.jpg

 

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It's just showing you that the bearing lock nut has to be seated correctly on the lock nut place or it will protrude too far out on the end of the axle housing and cause rub.  Correct me if I'm wrong here ya'll.  

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Remove the lock nut plate and the lock nut and fit then together and see how its supposed to be, Then just do it.

Here is a post about what it looks like when its done wrong

NOTE this is the result of a PO and not the current owner

 

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Appreciate both of those replies, and I think I'm mostly on the same page.

But, I still think the diagram is confusing as heck... it shows the bearing lock-nut being just slightly recessed from the end of the "axle housing" (<1mm when installed correctly), but the bearing nut is recessed quite a bit more than that on mine, and on other photos I've seen.

I do see that the bearing lock-nut is made to fit over and cover the bearing lock-plate, but I assume that just happens naturally when you tighten the nut down against it. Not much that can be done to manipulate those two pieces, once they're on the shaft, and you're tightening the nut down, right?

I guess that's what makes me nervous: the diagram is clearly trying to prevent you from doing something stupid, but 1) the diagram doesn't closely match my reality and 2) I can't see what you would do differently to avoid the "incorrect, bad outcome" they're describing.

Maybe I'm making this too complicated, haha :)

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You are mostly right about how it should be....BUT look at all the photos in BagerBears post, somebody managed to get it wrong!!!! :clown2:, so the installation procedure is only idiot resistant and not idiot proof!!!

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WME, you're correct.  Mostly idiot resistant haha.  I managed to bang my way through replacing an axle with little to no idea what I was doing.  A lot of information in the FSM gave me pause, but I found that when I was actually working on it it made a lot more sense.  I did buy a special tool for the bearing nut and torqued it to the specifications and then backed it off and all that.  I don't know how it could not seat properly if you use the tool and a torque wrench.  The tool was $10 at O'reillys.  If I was able to get it done, you will too.  Just take your time  

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Thanks again for the help and good words, folks! Axle is done and reinstalled. Now I can head out for my safety inspection and get my renewal completed at the DMV (ugh).

The axle stud hardware kit I bought worked out well, by the way. Everything was a good fit, although the new nuts used a 13mm socket, rather than a 12. I don't know if the metal is Toyota quality (i.e. good for 25yrs+), but it'll do the job: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Stud-Kit-for-Toyota-75-97-Landcruiser-79-95-Pickup-4Runner-90116-08325-x-6-/132356861481

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Were you able to save the brakes? or was that a redo too?

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Brakes were good, yeah. Nice and dry in there, so I gave them a good spray-down with brake cleaner and called it good. Only a few thousand since they were redone (just before I purchased). 

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