Ellie R Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 So after a month of owning my new ( to me) '87 Itasca Sundancer I've had fun repairing the roof ( eternabond on the seams) and a thick EPDM coat over everything... It looks gorgeous up there! I also scraped off all old silicone seals and resealed them with a good RV grade sealant which looks gorgeous and fresh and there are no leaks yay! Well.. Other than the ones I'm writing to ask you about, those are the last, but the biggest pain in my rump. I also got all 6 new tires, as the old ones were from 1998, yukes...Got an electrical issue fixed up too that was shorting the fuse responcible for rear lights ( blinkers, stop lights) and the dash board lights. SO yay ABout all that! But... The overcab windows are leaking pretty generously. The cab over will need re-framing and redoing, which I am kinda excited to do actually, but not before I seal the offending windows first. I wanted to ask for general advice from you guys, as so many of you seem to have gone through the same thing... -The glass is split in two from water damage I'm thinking of replacing it with tinted polycarbonate. has anyone done that before? - The gasket ( weatherstrip) has a 1/2 inch gap where it does not meet with it's tail ( think hungry, unfulfilled ouroboros)... I want to get a new strip and cut it longer so it would meet, the issue is the original one has been discontinued... Do you guys with similar RV's know which kind might work of what's available on the market today? I know the kind I had is part number 00228101000... --I'm a little mystified around the timing of the repair... Do I need the frame around the window rebuilt before I can reattach it? meaning, Do I have to have the window fixed ( as in new glass/plexi and gasket) and ready before I start working on the wood parts, or do I start on the wood rebuild and then reinstall window and put the new stuff on there? Sorry if it's a silly question:) -Also I want to know how to remove the glass from the old gasket. I pried the gasket open ( it has two parts that close together ) but cracked the window trying to pry it out.. Oh well, it was modly on the inside anyways, but I know I was not doing it the right way. I want to take it out intact so I can use it for a template for the new Polycarbonate windows ( if that idea can work)... Thank you oh wise RVers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 That seal is called self sealing weather strip. It's available from several places online. You need exact measurements of thickness of glass and the window frame it goes into on the other side. If you redoing it with polycarbonate use that thickness instead of the glass. Here's an example but maybe not the size you need. Also way more than you need. 25 feet would be plenty. Linda S https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Stripping-One-Piece-Glass-Edge/dp/B00NL48TFK/ref=pd_cp_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00NL48TFK&pd_rd_r=6DYPSC2H2ATBH41C0C5A&pd_rd_w=ZJUjG&pd_rd_wg=MHgT1&psc=1&refRID=6DYPSC2H2ATBH41C0C5A If you want to measure and post sizes I will look around for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 Based on the description, I'd say the glass in 3/16". The other dimension I'm guessing is 0.06" (not far from 1/16" (0.0625"). http://www.perfectfit.com/15976/154177/Weatherstrip--Trims/Self-Sealing-Weatherstrips--Self--Locking--2-Piece--Boats--Equipment-Etc.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 This (AS-990) should work with 1/4" Lexan. http://www.perfectfit.com/SubPage.aspx?spv_id=75080&spt_id=3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellie R Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 You guys are the best!!! That's exactly what it was... I took out the whole window and then managed to pop out the glass from the weather strip, that was pretty hard actually! The window is 1/4 and the metal part is 1/16 or thereabout...the cheapest I found it was on this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291413069312 I'm posting it if anyone ever searches my RV they will be able to find it on here:) Now to figure out what type of Polycarbonate or plexi to use, and to get that cut... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ellie R Posted October 4, 2017 Author Share Posted October 4, 2017 Are there any tricks to putting it back in place to make sure it does not leak again? I'm thinking, is there anything to add in the channel that houses the window itself to seal it better? Some glue or sealant? And, other than butyl tape between the frame and the outside, and caulking on the outside of the window, is there anything more I can add to make the best job I can so I don't have to re-do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 You just need to cut the weather strip a little longer than the frame so it gets compressed when the window is in. here's a video of using similar stuff for a Sunrader window. Watch what he does when he cuts the length. This is 2 piece but same idea http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/10239-resealing-wrap-around-windows-on-a-sunrader/&tab=comments#comment-95648 Yours is easier cause you only have to work with the window frame and you can work on a table. Use soapy warm water to make it easier to slide together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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