sonny sunrader Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Does anyone know how to change trans fluid in a A43D transmission, and fluid amounts less torque converter, fluid type and how to add the fluid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 7 minutes ago, sonny sunrader said: Does anyone know how to change trans fluid in a A43D transmission, and fluid amounts less torque converter, fluid type and how to add the fluid? About 4 qts syn type atf and a funnel with a very small end the fill tube is where the dip stick is and it's not much bigger than a 1/2". There is a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonny sunrader Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 What about filter, is there one, and if so how do you change it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 It's just a little mesh screen. You have to remove the pan to get to it. Messy pain to do and mine was original and didn't look gummed up at all. I wouldn't bother unless black clods come out of the drain and you need to really clean the pan Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Depending on how many miles you have on the tranny and how long since your last fluid change you might consider having a transmission shop familiar with Toys due a compete flush and fill. Draining and adding fluid yourself does Not flush the tranny completely clean. It takes a lot of fluid to do that properly. Drain & refill drain & refill etc. I just had my tranny flushed (they used 10 quarts to completely flush the tranny,) filter cleaned, new gasket and a magnet to clean up any debris. They can also adjust your tranny if needed to make it shift properly. They use dextron 4 now which is full synthetic. Not cheap but I won't need to do it again for 20-30K miles. Just my 2 cents! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 27, 2017 Share Posted September 27, 2017 Draining the pan will get 2-3 qts. My drill was once a year to do that and add fresh fluid. That way the trannie will always have additives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonny sunrader Posted September 27, 2017 Author Share Posted September 27, 2017 Ok I think I have the info I need, Thanks to everyone for all the help! Sonny Sunrader Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 22 hours ago, sonny sunrader said: What about filter, is there one, and if so how do you change it? The filter is plastic and really is not much more that a screen door they generally are just cleaned unlike a fiber filter that would be replaced. There is a problem you might run into removing the pan you probably will snap off a bolt or two just warning you in advance so if you don't have to remove it don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 Someone mentioned "flush" - I would say AWAY from that!  Flushing can break loose old gum deposits that can migrate into any of many little orifices - resulting in complete teardown / rebuild. Standard service is to remove pan, change screen (clean magnets if any are in there - they catch metal filings), replace and refill lost fluid. NOTE: most fluid in in lines, cooler etc so a std service only changes a few quarts of fluid. I did a standard when I got mine - now I use the drain plug to replace the few quarts that will drain out about every 10000 miles --------------Another option is to remove a cooler line, run the engine and let the tranny pump the ATF out - and replace it at the same rate. Never tried it myself.  ----------------This is what I use for ATF - it is dexron II compatible - over 50000 miles without issues.....   https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Transmax-DEX-MERC-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-1-Gal-Bottle/17253576  and a very good price too!  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted October 2, 2017 Share Posted October 2, 2017 (edited) I personally think the flushing process is important because it removes any contaminated old fluid in the tranny, cleans the screen, removes metal shavings, new pan gasket and also replaces all the old dextron 2 fluid with the new full synthetic dextron 4. I think the odds are pretty slim that flushing your tranny would result in a complete breakdown resulting in a rebuild. Edited October 2, 2017 by markwilliam1 More info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob C Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 I disconnected the cooler line and ran the engine while dumping in fresh fluid at the same time. The fluid was changed just before I bought the RV 6 years ago and was still nice and clean. The old fluid did not smell any different than the new fluid. After my 7500 mile trip last year and only 3000 this year I will probably wait until spring to do it again. I can do it myself pretty cheaply. I am probably going to drop in a larger radiator next spring also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 High mileage flush should be avoided if it has not been done on a regular basis. The gook on the clutch plates with age actually protects them the fluid is highly detergent and removes the built up goo and soon the friction surfaces take it on the chin and you are reduced to walking. If the fluid has been changed regularly that is not an issue, 30K for a complete flush will help the trans to last longer. Many years ago long before they made flush machines we made a double ended cylinder with a piston. The new fluid was placed in the chamber that was at the bottom (it held about 6qts) the old fluid under pressure forced the piston up and pushed the new fluid into the return line. To repeat the process air pressure pushed the cylinder back down dumped the old fluid from the bottom and new fluid was added to the top. Crude but it worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 You’ve been around for awhile Maineah Lol! I agree about high mileage tranny flush. Since Grannie has such low mileage I’m going to have a complete flush every 25K. Thanks for your input! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Every 25,000 miles would be way more than could ever be necessary unless you were deliberately cooking your fluid. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Complete flush would be overkill, IMHO. A simple drain, filter/screen and refill would be all I do @ 30k mile intervals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Just going by what the Transmission supervisor stated. I’m going to follow his expert advice since I shift a lot and the tranny is already stressed. Don’t put your that many miles on her so it won’t be that often. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 'Transmission Supervisor'? I'll bet he's working on commission to suggest using full synthetic and changing it with a full flush every 20k miles. If it won't even go 30k miles with 'regular' ATF as recommended by Toyota for Severe Service, what's the point of using 'full synthetic? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted October 4, 2017 Share Posted October 4, 2017 Point taken Derek. Thanks for the severe service recommendation! Will do @ 30K if I live that long hopefully, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 5 hours ago, linda s said: Every 25,000 miles would be way more than could ever be necessary unless you were deliberately cooking your fluid. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Linda S Unfortunately these things were never designed to handle the stress 6000# puts on them they cook fluid even though you try your best not to allow that it's cheap insurance. The average toy home owners yearly mileage is probably less than 3 grand a year so every 10 years you do a full flush? Those that drive more will benefit from fluid changes. When I bought my Nova Star it had 28K on it that worked out to like 1,700 miles a year the fluid was brown never changed 30 K later I changed it again it was much cleaner but needed it. I did around 6K a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 On 10/2/2017 at 10:50 AM, markwilliam1 said: I personally think the flushing process is important because it removes any contaminated old fluid in the tranny, cleans the screen, removes metal shavings, new pan gasket and also replaces all the old dextron 2 fluid with the new full synthetic dextron 4. I think the odds are pretty slim that flushing your tranny would result in a complete breakdown resulting in a rebuild. it might "remove" most of the gunk, but it only takes a very small amount to clog some of the orifices in the control mechanism...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 On 10/2/2017 at 10:50 AM, markwilliam1 said: I personally think the flushing process is important because it removes any contaminated old fluid in the tranny, cleans the screen, removes metal shavings, new pan gasket and also replaces all the old dextron 2 fluid with the new full synthetic dextron 4. I think the odds are pretty slim that flushing your tranny would result in a complete breakdown resulting in a rebuild. When you run the engine to purge the fluid the old fluid is drawn through the filter hence the stuff that might be floating around is now stuck to the filter the metal bits are still laying in the bottom of the pan yes the old fluid is gone but that's about it. Removing the pan will give you about 4 qts that leaves you about 5 qts still in the system in many cases of high millage that is a good thing. I can not begin to tell you how many times I have seen trans failure on high mileage vehicles not just Toyotas when they were drained. If the fluid was brown or smelled burnt within about a week they quit moving. We saved clean drained fluid from low mileage vehicles to put in high mileage vehicles of those that insisted on replacing the fluid not a flush just draining the pan because all though we told them not a good ideal they still insisted we drain it. The Toyota trans is an all clutch trans it has no bands, the clutch drums are an excellent place to hide crud new fluid has a tendency to loosen that stuff. Granted it's been many years since I was a shop manager but at that time the OD Toyota trans was in pretty much anything Toyota, yes they are tough transmissions but still required the same care as the rest of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 (edited) FWIW personal experience. When I bought my Escaper the transmission fluid looked like Mocha. I did the fluid transfer cylinder setup at the local NON chain transmission shop it took 16 qts to get a good flush. Cleaned the pan and the filter No problems for the next 40,000 mi when I sold it. Edited October 9, 2017 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 5 hours ago, WME said: FWIW personal experience. When I bought my Escaper the transmission fluid looked like Mocha. I did the fluid transfer cylinder setup at the local NON chain transmission shop it took 16 qts to get a good flush. Cleaned the pan and the filter No problems for the next 40,000 mi when I sold it. Mine had 28K when I bought it same deal when I changed it again in about 25K it was still red. A lot of the issues occur in urban use out in the hinterlands the demands on the transmission are a lot less. You are right an independent shop is the place to take it preferably an ATRA shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 You are right an independent shop is the place to take it preferably an ATRA shop............................I agree, donnie  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted October 10, 2017 Share Posted October 10, 2017 ATRA shops are nationwide at least when I was still in the game any ATRA shop would repair/replace a trans from another ATRA shop they were not beholding to corporate. They would charge the other shop but no cost to the owner of the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 Yep my shop is independent and family owned. Used 16 qts for a complete flush. Grannie is happy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donnie Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 Markwilliam,   I happened to notice your location..........  Did you have you work done at Jim Currier' s Shop...if so....you made an excellent choice.. They are great folks.       .......donnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 (edited) Possibly Donnie it was Jim & Sons on Front St. in the Falls. Edited October 15, 2017 by markwilliam1 More info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Linder Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Hi - I have a 1985 Sunrader which has 47 k on it (recently bought). Has auto trans. with od. I plan to put a transmission cooler on it and drain/refill it with Dexron 111. I assume it has Dexron 11 now. It works perfectly now but will be taken on a trip over the Cascades and Rockies soon and we want to be sure it runs cool enough (hardly ever use the od). Any thoughts appreciated.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, greg Linder said: Hi - I have a 1985 Sunrader which has 47 k on it (recently bought). Has auto trans. with od. I plan to put a transmission cooler on it and drain/refill it with Dexron 111. I assume it has Dexron 11 now. It works perfectly now but will be taken on a trip over the Cascades and Rockies soon and we want to be sure it runs cool enough (hardly ever use the od). Any thoughts appreciated.  Yes on cooler, put it in series with the radiator cooler. Aftermarket first then radiator. This will help take some of the heat out of the radiator when your making a long up hill climb. Yes on Dex 3. Draining the pan will only remove 2-3 qts. But that much fresh fluid will be a big help. The transmission filter is just a big piece screen not worth changing unless its torn. Yes on hardly use O/D To be totally sure of things add a trannie temp gauge Edited September 5, 2019 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg Linder Posted September 5, 2019 Share Posted September 5, 2019 Thanks for the reply. As for the cooler - any recommendation on size or brand? Thinking about a mid size one which I see online for 60 to 80 bucks. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 6, 2019 Share Posted September 6, 2019 A flat plate cooler is more $$ but it is more efficient than a tube and fin cooler. Both of these coolers are 18,000lb units. You can see the size difference and cost. Your choice This is a flat plate cooler...https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/60380/10002/-1 This is a tube and fin cooler...https://www.jegs.com/i/TCI/890/820500/10002/-1 Â Â Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted September 6, 2019 Share Posted September 6, 2019 Here is a good site for you about trans coolers. https://www.etrailer.com/faq-about-engine-transmission-coolers.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AtlantaCamper Posted September 10, 2019 Share Posted September 10, 2019 On 9/5/2019 at 1:57 PM, greg Linder said: plan to put a transmission cooler Does your model already have a transmission cooler in front of the radiator? In my 87/88 Sunrader I have one already installed and it's all I need to keep the transmission cool on hills. Does your radiator have the inlet/outlet for the transmission fluid? Mine flows through this and then trough a trans cooler. I installed a simple mechanical temp gauge in the line that runs from the trans to the radiator to monitor the trans. If you don't see any metal shavings come out I find the easiest way to do a fluid swap is the the sequential drain and replace method - only about 2 of the 8 or 9 quarts in there will come out with the plug out. You have to do this in multiple steps with driving in between to mix the fluid. No need to crack the pan gasket at 47k unless you see crud. Even with the pan off there is still a _lot_ of fluid retained in the torque converter and so I don't think there is such a thing as a one-step fluid change in these transmissions. If you are changing from one fluid type to another this can be an issue I suppose because they need to be compatible. Oh yea, and forget about the overdrive on anything but downhill with a tailwind. 4k RPM in 1st or second up steep hills is how I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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