Eric Berkshire Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 (edited) Good afternoon all, I have a 1986 New Horizon and made the monumental mistake if starting what ended up being an almost full roof replacement. My first bit of advice is don't ever do this!! I had to cut all the wires since they are routed through the "trusses" in several different spots. This is where I am at now.... when I removed the old rotted roof I took pictures on my phone but didn't back them up and then lost the phone. The labels I made marking the wires faded from the sun. I am in the process of trying to reconnect all the green and blue wires for the lights and vent fan in the correct order for them to all work. The 2 side reading lights as well as the two lights under the right and left cabinets are working, but the hood light, overhead light above the fridge, light under the sink, bathroom light and the fan in the roof vent are not working. I need to finish this step so I can put insulation, new plywood and the new membrane sheet to replace the old metal roofing. Does anyone have any knowledge on the correct sequence to attach all the wires? The factory set up has many of the double run wire connectors but I have no idea anymore how they go together correctly. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!! Edited August 31, 2017 by Eric Berkshire photo finally showed up in mailbox Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 IN your 12v fuse box how many fuses are labeled lights? In fact how many 12v fuses do you have and are they labeled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek up North Posted August 31, 2017 Share Posted August 31, 2017 Can't help you with yours specifically, but here's what Dolphin and Winnebago was doing in the '90s. I doubt New Horizon was doing much different. 90 095714.pdf 90 095715.pdf 085259.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted September 1, 2017 Share Posted September 1, 2017 eric, The multimeter is your friend. Back out from the fuse box for each circuit. Given easy connects, there should be no exposed wiring to cause any issues. So you can get yourself a portable voltage source of desired test voltage, say 5V so the risk is even lower. Now power each circuit *without any load* and test for voltage drops or current loss. If the wires are good then relabel each and give them a sleeve of some sort. Sleeves+ velcro are cheap additional protection. Given LEDs not needing all that much, you can actually improve your wiring by having fewer lighting circuits, lighting not sharing anything else so you can power it without the house battery if needed and so on. Wires, sleeves, connectors are all practically free compared to your roof expense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Berkshire Posted September 2, 2017 Author Share Posted September 2, 2017 On 8/31/2017 at 2:45 PM, WME said: IN your 12v fuse box how many fuses are labeled lights? In fact how many 12v fuses do you have and are they labeled? Here is the fuse box. I assume the 2 with blue wires are associated with the lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Berkshire Posted September 2, 2017 Author Share Posted September 2, 2017 On 8/31/2017 at 3:15 PM, Derek up North said: Can't help you with yours specifically, but here's what Dolphin and Winnebago was doing in the '90s. I doubt New Horizon was doing much different. 90 095714.pdf 90 095715.pdf 085259.pdf Thank you Derek. I've printed these off and will use them as a template to help me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Berkshire Posted September 2, 2017 Author Share Posted September 2, 2017 On 8/31/2017 at 5:47 PM, neubie said: eric, The multimeter is your friend. Back out from the fuse box for each circuit. Given easy connects, there should be no exposed wiring to cause any issues. So you can get yourself a portable voltage source of desired test voltage, say 5V so the risk is even lower. Now power each circuit *without any load* and test for voltage drops or current loss. If the wires are good then relabel each and give them a sleeve of some sort. Sleeves+ velcro are cheap additional protection. Given LEDs not needing all that much, you can actually improve your wiring by having fewer lighting circuits, lighting not sharing anything else so you can power it without the house battery if needed and so on. Wires, sleeves, connectors are all practically free compared to your roof expense. I have a alltest multimeter from 1982. It doesn't look anything like what they make today. What can I use as a portable voltage source? Should I have shore power unplugged, or have no shore power and all batteries disconnected? Electrical issues have never been my strong suit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted September 2, 2017 Share Posted September 2, 2017 Your making things way to complicated. How many fuses in the 12 fuse panel?? What are they labeled. Do the fixtures have a built in switch or is there a wall mounted switch for each fixture. My multimeter is from 1975 and it does just fine. KISS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 6 hours ago, Eric Berkshire said: I have a alltest multimeter from 1982. It doesn't look anything like what they make today. What can I use as a portable voltage source? Should I have shore power unplugged, or have no shore power and all batteries disconnected? Electrical issues have never been my strong suit. Please disconnect shore power, whenever you are not sure of the integrity of the AC circuits. There is a reason ac wiring requires licensed technicians. If you are well versed with your multimeter, then appearance is irrelevent. I presume you are familiar with continuity tests, http://en-us.fluke.com/training/training-library/test-tools/digital-multimeters/how-to-test-for-continuity-with-a-digital-multimeter.html every multimeter is slightly different, ymmv on setup. label circuits corresponding to fusebox labels. do not use any voltage source. it is quite simple when you can reach both ends of the wire even if its going through conduits and passages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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