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I am finally starting this job after studing the info y'all gave me in my last post. I have got it on Jack stands and blocked up, drained the rear diff and removed the wheels.  I am stuck in how to remove the parking brake clip/cable from the drum.?  It is totally different from the ones I saw on you tube.  Much thanks in advance.

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WME   

NO TOUCHIE. All that you should need to do is on the other side. The backing plate stays where it is.

We are talking about doing the brake job on a 1 ton 6 bolt axle RIGHT???

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Oh great thanks!!! Good save.  Did I not need to remove the brake lines then either?  The main job i am attempting is replacing the axle seals and bearings, along with replacing the brake shoes and wheel cylinders. The only info I could find was for regular Toyota pickup.  I am finding out there seem to be,some differences.

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Holy crap, i was watching the wrong videos this whole time!  I just found a few videos for the 1 ton axle.  What I'm looking at makes a lot more sense now!!! 

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These are the closest I can find to what I have.?  

 

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0812171651.jpg

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I pulled the axle out and this is what I'm looking at.  Something seems funky with the sheared off metal deals and the different sized Phillips screws, one looks half stripped too?  Not sure what to do next.  Having lots of trouble finding info 

Screenshot_2017-08-12-16-53-19.png

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I think i figured out why those slotted screw deals are sheared off at the edge.

0812171738a.jpg

Edited by Badgerbear

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WME   

Messy Ugly... OK the phillips screws BOTH need to come out. Then you unscrew the bearing lock nut.  Then you remove bearing lock plate, it should just pull out. Then the drum pulls off

WHY this?? I THINK the bearing race is seated wrong and the lock nut sticks out to far and is rubbing the axle. OR its something with the bearings.

Does the brake drum move in and out?

This is going to be a fun long distance fix

 

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Yes the brake drum has lots of play and moves in and out, but the other side does not have any play.  Are the Phillips screws supposed to be there?  I got one Phillips screw out but I don't think I'm gonna be able to get the other out without stripping it completely.  Any ideas, drill it out or something?

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WME   

The Phillips lock the bearing lock nut.  They BOTH have to be removed. Actually if they are both a full turn loose the lock nut should turn.

If you can get the lock nut off, before you remove things. Get the screws out and reinstall the lock nut and screw it in as far as it will go and see if the in & out goes away. I'm still thinking the bearings were out of wack.

There is supposed about 43 lb ft on the lock nut

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So I got the screw out with an impact driver. Also got the axle nuts, drum and outer bearing off.  Trying to figure out how to clean the gear oil off of everything and how to go about getting the seals and bearings out and new ones in properly.  There is pink grease packed in the bearing area, is that normal? 

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0813171241.jpg

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0813171251a.jpg

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WME   

Great, the inner seal should come out of the hub with a standard seal puller from the backside. The bearing will fall out with the seal gone.

YES  grease is normal. Remember the rear bearings are grease packed and NOT lubed by the rear axle lube.

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This metal is all chewed up looking.  I think this is where the seal goes eh?  What is this piece called and is it replaceable?

0813171401b.jpg

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WME   

Take the lock nut plate and  the bearing lock nut and put them together in your hand. The lock nut has a small lip on the back that the nut plate fits into. IF you dont get things right the lock nut will stick out 1-2mm to far and RUB on the backside of the axle hub....

Just like your photos show.

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Do you think that chewed up metal deal will be ok or do I need to replace it somehow?  Do I just drive in a new bearing and seal and make sure to get the bearing lock nut and plate in correctly?  I got and outer and inner seal, I see where the inner double sided seal goes, but where does the outer seal go?  What kind of grease do I lube the bearings with?  I have never worked on drum brakes, or axles and bearings before and have no idea what im doing.  I can't find ANY info on this job with this particular axle.  Any links or what words do I search for to find info?  Thanks for your help!

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WME   

I think your OK. Looks like some body used a screw driver to pop out the seal. The seal fits in the undamaged machined area above the gouges.

You will need a brass drift and a BFH to remove the outer bearing races. Use the old bearings and races to help press in the new stuff.

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WME   

1. Use HD wheel bearing grease.

2. You need to drive out the outer bearing races. Drive in new races, the bearings will just fall in place. Then drive in the inner seal.

3. I THINK the outer seal goes inside the axle tube. Look at your axle it looks like outer seal is on the axle.

 

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Sweet, I found the outer seal on the axle.  I didn't get any races with the bearings from the parts store and how come they only gave me 2 bearings total for both sides? Am I supposed to re-use the old outer bearings and just replace the inner?  Sounding like I may be in for another trip to napa! Much thanks! I'd be totally lost without your help!

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WME   

Take the receipt and bearings back to NAPA, you most likely have pickup truck seals and bearings not Toyota C&C DRW.

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Ok so they did give me races with the bearings (helps to open the package lol) and I'm pretty possitive they are for the 1 ton axle.  I looked on the receipt and they only gave me outer bearings and no inner bearings.

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