Lee & Joan Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 (edited) Yesterday I was all set to replace the original (crappy) vinyl (rubber) molding strips that go around the center body joint where the two fiberglass (upper & lower) body sections join together. Well I saw a bunch of rusty Phillips screws holding the aluminum molding so I decided to unscrew a few to see how bad they were...quite a few were broken off or semi headless. So today I put a new stainless steel #10 screw (old ones were #8 galvanized) between each of the old screws before replacing the vinyl molding strip. I have never heard of a Sunrader opening up like a clam-shell at speed due to rusty screws, but I did not want to become the first. It takes a couple 25 foot rolls of molding strip and about 100 screws to do this. I found that the strip from the cabin front door around the cab over and down the drivers side is 25 feet 4 inches, a hair over a 25' roll. Edited August 4, 2017 by Lee & Joan add text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 The molding strip doesn't hold the top and bottom together. It just hides where they were joined. Karin who used to post here a lot found quite a few too long ones that made holes to the inside of the camper and could cause water leakage. I've had my insert trim for ages. Someday I'll get to it Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 From what I've seen,the most common "too-long" offenders seem to be ones located below the side windows in the cab-over sleeper. Two of them per side usually completely penetrate the shell and screw about 1/2" into the horizontal strips of plywood that the sleeper side paneling is attached to. I had difficulty removing all the old rusty ones to replace with stainless until I hit on heating them up with a good high wattage soldering gun. Then they backed out quite nicely. Out of all, I think I might have had to repair 3 or 4 of the holes with a bit of resin and flock powder and re-drill. I also blew out crud from the others with about 40 psi compressed air, then pre-loaded each of the holes with caulk before putting the new screws in. Worked for me, BR, TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 is the soldering iron trick common? will it work on other non sunrader models too? I need to redo both sides back and front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 I did the same thing you did Lee although Grannies not a Sunrader. I replaced all the old rusty screws on the aluminum molding (which goes around my entire rig) with larger SS screws putting caulking in the holes and over the screw heads before replacing the vinyl trim insert. All the old screws came out but many were rusted down to about 1/2". Can't be too careful when it comes to leaks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ToyoGuy Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 Heating the screws is an old trick I have used on nails, screws, bolts etc that are stuck in old steel, wood, plastic and other stuff. If there's enough of the fastener shaft left, it seems to break the rust bond, glue or any sealant that may have been used originally, or sometimes just a really tight fit. It worked well on stubborn old fiberglass bonded by rust. As usual, normal tool cautions apply. You can usually smell when things get warm enough to loosen-up. I used an old pistol-type Weller brand soldering gun, not sure if the little pencil-type would have enough power. TG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 Great tips y'all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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