neubie Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Can anyone quickly recall what these two connectors (red question marks, white plugs)? thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 (edited) Probably nothing, the harness were made to comply with every Hilux and accessory if it was necessary there would be a mating end close by. I have a 2011 Tacoma there are several dangling plugs in assorted places. Edited July 27, 2017 by Maineah Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted July 27, 2017 Author Share Posted July 27, 2017 Thanks maineah. The pedigry of the truck is questionable so I cant be sure. This leaves just the AC part unanswered. You see the black wire of the compressor going into that black doohickey and then several wires coming out. Well, what is that doohickey? Because while the red wire goes to the battery positive, and the green goes to that fusebox type thing, the black wire coming out is loose either always was or got disconnected when I took the battery out as its connector is broken off. That one I need to trace. I cant figure out the wiring diagrams to understand what the doohickey is. Any ideas? I have the plug types identified in the pictures below so they certainly could be test points. Or not. At least it will be a clean hood when it lights on fire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 Dohicky is most likely a relay. The temp switch can't handle the current to power the clutch. So the temp switch controls a relay that can handle the required current. I would GUESS that the disconnected wire goes to the AC temp control switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 The yellowish round connector is factory if that is what you are talking about all of the early AC units were installed stateside with US parts wiring, brackets etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 2 hours ago, WME said: Dohicky is most likely a relay. The temp switch can't handle the current to power the clutch. So the temp switch controls a relay that can handle the required current. I would GUESS that the disconnected wire goes to the AC temp control switch Thank you WME. It is indeed a relay. As I noted before the poor car was covered in such grease that making out lettering wasnt an option. Now it is! Niles Japan MC-IT 12V 30A -- 4 port make or break relay. Hereafter referred to as a doohickey. The black wire comes from compressor, red from battery positive, green from the fuse/control box, and black from -- battery negative/ground? Or where? Internet hasnt given me any paperwork on the relay though doubtless now FSM should have something for it. Also sorry for the poor pictures. The second picture has the two orphan connectors and the cable/harness it emnates from. thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 If you can power up things, try touching the unknown black wire to ground and see if the relay clicks. Check the temp control dial in the cab and see if it is missing a wire connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 I can probably stick the battery back in, but will wait another day for side to top post adapters that should be here tomorrow. I hadnt realized there was a mechanical disconnect on the negative side as a threat deterrent. The whole battery box, both batteries actually, was jumbled up mess of wires with no connectors. So need to at least get proper connectors and labels to avoid the doohickey problem again. Also, one more round of degreasing and cleanup so things can become recognizable a bit more. The toothbrush wasnt handy last time. The A/C is known not to cool. But I am hoping the compressor turns out to be good. Need to disconnect the coach battery charging cable off the alternator circuit at least while there is no coach battery or circuit to charge. Any reason why the isolator should remain in the circuit instead of being bypassed if there is just the truck battery to worry about? I have a 10AH 12V lithium battery. I know this is a third of a deep cycle, but I am tempted to add another 20AH and do away with coach deep cycle. Gives me three cells with independent safety circuits and I cant honestly think why I should need 1AH per hour, there should also be a 100Watt or better solar. I have been told there is a fuel line in the generator compartment. That means it has to be an Onan or similar instead of a Honda. Can you jerry rig a Honda to take a gas line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 Ok, so there are two relays somewhere. I dont pretend to understand the diagram yet, but the guess is this is the bottom relay that activates the magnetic clutch. Is that likely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 Here is the other diagram. Seems like my wire colors (green, red, blue or black with white stripe, black) dont match any relay. Can someone with 22re and oem compessor take a look under the hood and recommend where the red, and striped cables go. They probably go to the battery but which is ther positive and which is the negative? I took tons of pictures but due to the stupid side post battery arrangement dont have anything on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted July 28, 2017 Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) 1 hour ago, neubie said: Upper red circle is a switch and a light, not a relay. Major problem here is, there are a ton of Toy MH with aftermarket AC units. So the Toyota diagrams are of limit value. Edited July 28, 2017 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted July 28, 2017 Author Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) True. But its worthwhile to ask if someone can check the wires going to the battery on their car. Its right in front, so if colors match its easier to give it a shot then otherwise. I would try the red is positive and black is ground bit but this wiring has shown that to not be the case. Black is often +12V, including from the alternator to the isolator to the coach -- all black, all positive. At the same time the majority of cables going into battery are -- red. This needs a second example for confirmation. Or, plug the battery in and see if it works or starts a fire. May be someone will look under their hood. This is the toyota part, there are still plenty of stock compressors about. Edited July 28, 2017 by neubie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee & Joan Posted August 1, 2017 Share Posted August 1, 2017 Is this why my cab AC will not cycle on and off, it just remains on and will freeze up the lines. I have been manually cycling it with the green light dash button. Is there a temp relay that I am missing? When I got the rig there was no wiring to the compressor so I ran a wire into the cab unit to power the clutch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 20 hours ago, Lee & Joan said: Is this why my cab AC will not cycle on and off, it just remains on and will freeze up the lines. I have been manually cycling it with the green light dash button. Is there a temp relay that I am missing? When I got the rig there was no wiring to the compressor so I ran a wire into the cab unit to power the clutch... There is intermediate wiring. Certainly there needs to be a relay for the clutch. This relay is the doohickey discussed in this thread. There is another gizmo or a different kind of doohickey before the clutch along the wire going to the compressor. Will post pictures tomorrow. For me, one of the wires to the relay is disconnected. One goes to ground, one to battery, one to the compressor via this second doohickey. Like you the compressor comes on for now. The system needs recharging, so I dont know if the relay is making any difference yet. At lest the car starts (well jump starts, the battery isnt really holding all that much charge it seems), and the AC/fan runs even if it doesnt really cool. In 100 degrees it doesnt heat, so certainly a different circuit than the heater. I still need to figure out where the relay wires come/go. So if you discover any wisdom, please do share. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 On 7/27/2017 at 6:09 PM, WME said: If you can power up things, try touching the unknown black wire to ground and see if the relay clicks. Check the temp control dial in the cab and see if it is missing a wire connection. WME, I finally have the battery in. Here are the doohickey connections: green is ground ( always has been going to the body and not to anything else, my mistake previously), red is now positive 12V, the black/blue-white stripe has a connector that looks like its a male that should go into some female plug and is disconnected still. The 4th and last black goes to the compressor. So in this setup, nothing goes to the dash/controls via this doohickey right now. What is the control signal supposed to be for the relay? Where does it come from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 (edited) Depends... On a factory setup (your diagrams) it goes to the AC amplifier. Which looks something like this...http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-89-Toyota-MR2-AC-amplifier-module-077200-0730-/263074870264?hash=item3d407bf3f8:g:10wAAOSwuMZZCKsB&vxp=mtr If you ground it the compressor clutch should click and lock up. So look for the AC amp and check connections In an aftermarket it may go directly to the temp control. All this is a guess. Edited August 2, 2017 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 1 hour ago, WME said: Depends... On a factory setup (your diagrams) it goes to the AC amplifier. Which looks something like this...http://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-89-Toyota-MR2-AC-amplifier-module-077200-0730-/263074870264?hash=item3d407bf3f8:g:10wAAOSwuMZZCKsB&vxp=mtr If you ground it the compressor clutch should click and lock up. So look for the AC amp and check connections In an aftermarket it may go directly to the temp control. All this is a guess. I am guessing this is hiding in the cab passanger footwell? Nothing under the hood that looks like this. Also, and I am no good reading these circuits, it looks like cables go to temp sensor or clutch and those are then grounded somehow. And at the other end there is a dot (what does that do?) on two lines, like both are joined together and then go as one wire to ac amplifier. So neither of my connectors should be 12V then? Is it true that two of thd connectors are joined together before they go to the amplifier? None of the four ports is going directly to ground. And I know the green cable coming out of the relay has always been grounded directly. I need to unscrew the damn thing tomorrow and match port numbers to wire colors. I also need to post the picture of this other strange doohickey thats in series with the wire to the compressor/clutch. Chances are this was never wired right and/or several different wiring connections do the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted August 2, 2017 Author Share Posted August 2, 2017 Collective wisdom has confirmed that the compressor and its wiring are indeed aftermarket. It also appears to be a relatively rare aftermarket solutions. So your wiring will look different, at least. Obviously this compressor wires its clutch differently than others. Even mounts differently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 2, 2017 Share Posted August 2, 2017 1 hour ago, neubie said: Collective wisdom has confirmed that the compressor and its wiring are indeed aftermarket. It also appears to be a relatively rare aftermarket solutions. So your wiring will look different, at least. Obviously this compressor wires its clutch differently than others. Even mounts differently. The early ones all were. The Toyota wiring was in place the AC units were state side the compressor could have been US made units or Japanese all the hardware was state side I installed dozens of them in the day. The newer body style ones had Japanese factory units. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted August 3, 2017 Share Posted August 3, 2017 On 7/31/2017 at 11:20 PM, Lee & Joan said: Is this why my cab AC will not cycle on and off, it just remains on and will freeze up the lines. I have been manually cycling it with the green light dash button. Is there a temp relay that I am missing? When I got the rig there was no wiring to the compressor so I ran a wire into the cab unit to power the clutch... There is a temp probe inside the evaporator box that controls the temp it is inline with the clutch control. 19 hours ago, neubie said: I am guessing this is hiding in the cab passanger footwell? Nothing under the hood that looks like this. Also, and I am no good reading these circuits, it looks like cables go to temp sensor or clutch and those are then grounded somehow. And at the other end there is a dot (what does that do?) on two lines, like both are joined together and then go as one wire to ac amplifier. So neither of my connectors should be 12V then? Is it true that two of thd connectors are joined together before they go to the amplifier? None of the four ports is going directly to ground. And I know the green cable coming out of the relay has always been grounded directly. I need to unscrew the damn thing tomorrow and match port numbers to wire colors. I also need to post the picture of this other strange doohickey thats in series with the wire to the compressor/clutch. Chances are this was never wired right and/or several different wiring connections do the same thing. Don't believe the Hilux had an AC amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 Turns out (verified by some kind soul with same aftermarket solution) the black/white strip goes to that top connector in the red circle. It is the switch. Otherwise, one wire goes to ground (green), one to 12v (red), and one to the compressor (black). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted August 4, 2017 Author Share Posted August 4, 2017 Had some not so bad luck. Connected up the AC. Closed all vents but one. Ran AC. The air blown back is not warm! Wont say freezing cold, but definitely not warm. Went and looked at the sight glass. What should it look like when not empty? There is fluid going by, though clearly not a ton. No air bubbles. Just a small fluid stream bumping against the sight glass. This is almost in the it will do for now category. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 Your very fortunate to get it kinda working! Remember the Freon used in these old systems are R12. On my 86 I had a leak in the canister and since it was an aftermarket system it couldn't be repaired without spending hundreds. My compressor worked but no cold air! I disconnected the AC belt and all electrical connections to the AC. So I use my Honda 2000i now to run my rooftop AC while driving and it cools the cab perfectly! Fixing the cab AC was almost as costly as the genny. Plus when the Honda is cooling my cab I have no strain on the little 22RE. BTW not all rigs had a gas line running the the generator compartment. Mine doesn't. My guess is yours might have had a genny install there @ one time maybe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neubie Posted August 15, 2017 Author Share Posted August 15, 2017 On 8/4/2017 at 10:47 AM, markwilliam1 said: Your very fortunate to get it kinda working! Remember the Freon used in these old systems are R12. On my 86 I had a leak in the canister and since it was an aftermarket system it couldn't be repaired without spending hundreds. My compressor worked but no cold air! I disconnected the AC belt and all electrical connections to the AC. So I use my Honda 2000i now to run my rooftop AC while driving and it cools the cab perfectly! Fixing the cab AC was almost as costly as the genny. Plus when the Honda is cooling my cab I have no strain on the little 22RE. BTW not all rigs had a gas line running the the generator compartment. Mine doesn't. My guess is yours might have had a genny install there @ one time maybe? mark, When mr. car was functional, it had everything. A generator, an a/c, a roof rack, TV, obviously the water heater and the three way fridge. I received none of these. The generator will be a 2000i equivalent, the old micros are hard to find and they will be unreliable. The A/C has some liquid in it, clearly circulates it. There arent any air bubbles but I doubt the pressure is where it should be. Its off the immediate checklist. Same as the hoses. For now, only the truck battery (2016 code but not sure if it holds charge, need to jump to start for now) is the only thing on the list. Under the hood, probably not much else needed. Mechanically will need to also examine brakes, axle, transmission at some point. But totally illiterate on those subjects, nothing needs immediate simple attention like fluids or leaks. So, for now, its back to roof scraping and repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikiah lewis Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 OK so I have this 4runner it's a 91 22re manual 4wd it's got a cut harness I'm not getting any power yet I'm trying to figure where this set of wires goes and what it does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikiah lewis Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 20221212_144052.mp4 7 minutes ago, ikiah lewis said: OK so I have this 4runner it's a 91 22re manual 4wd it's got a cut harness I'm not getting any power yet I'm trying to figure where this set of wires goes and what it does 20221212_144052.mp4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ikiah lewis Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 This set of wires goes under the intake and I have no clue how it should be ran and why it was cut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fred heath Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 You will need to source a factory wiring diagram for your particular vehicle. Members of this forum concentrate on motor home applications. Your wiring could be different from 2WD vehicles. Locating a forum dedicated to 4Runners might be more helpful. Good luck. Fred Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Does this thing run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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