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Dismantling the bathroom


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In the process of redoing the whole thing, it seems EVERYTHING will end up being new or "renewed" (yes, there is a thread for the rest), I have hit upon the latest brain teaser. I havent the cells left or the knowledge, so here go two duplicate questions:

1. The toilet part is right now half of a plastic flange+elbow glued to the black water tank. Whats the best approach to resolving this to a working setup where a new flange might sit floor level for the new toilet? What parts?

2. The shower pan wont come off because the drain is in the way. I cant see much of the gray water connection from top or bottom. How does it come off? There was a screw in the middle, thats out. Probably glued to something. Whats a good approach to proceed further?

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Edited by neubie
forgot pictures.
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See that thicker part on the pipe. That's a coupler. You want to cut as close to the floor as you can and install a new coupler then a new toilet flange. If you Google those things tons will come up. Need ABS glue to put it all back together. Just make sure the flange gets installed so it will be level with the new floor when your done so you can install a toilet.

Linda S

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Thanks Linda, am on it.

Do you know if the shower drain is a press fit with a screw to the center or a screw-on that needs to be turned loose and pried off?

 

ps -- it wasn't just a coupler, it was a full  flange, the flange part on it I cut off to get rid of the three pieces of wood that were making the low toilet a high toilet. the question is whether its still a three or four inch outer diameter now so I can fit something larger on top of it.

Pps -- how can you confidently get on that roof without fearing putting your foot through it? If not, how does one do all the paint and repair?

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I usually just go to ebay and see what they look like. The shower drains I see look just like the one I replaced at home. Screw in

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RV-2-SHOWER-STRAINER-WITH-FLOOR-DRAIN-CHROME-/253042823759?hash=item3aea87124f:g:JQwAAOSwmrlUy9zM&vxp=mtr

I hae been lucky and never had to do all this stuff in my camper. My home is aother thing. Lots of plumbing done there and no major disaters yet. I am in San Jose right now. Can I look?

Linda S

Exception to the no camper fixes. I did have to fix my black tank after a truck in front of me dropped a load of wood. Poopy everywhere and tank seriously messed up. Fixed it and still no leaks years later. ABS is my friend. Poly tanks are almost unfixable

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Linda,

That explains it. I might go and try to unscrew it now. Thanks for the ebay approach too. Although, given you and others here ready to supply the wisdom, my lethargy is sort of explained. Will also ask uncle google and aunty ebay from now on. I have been youtubing everything a bit first, but that doesnt always work to your benefit.

With no wiring diagrams and not knowing what is press fit vs what is screw fit, and rusted screws, and free rotating screws and previous owners smart decisions and so on I have probably been going as slow as I can in the tear apart process. Its bare walls, floor, ceiling panels will be down tomorrow, hopefully along with the shower pan.

The rv is in campbell, so next door. Of course you can look, but you probably wont like it in the state it is.

I have all the parts minus major appliances -- fridge, ac, toilet, water heater. But putting them in is going to be a huge chore. I am hoping to get past painting the coach, and putting the floor and ceiling back in sometime soon.  Everything else -- cabinets, cab, anything over/under the hood -- will take its own time.

 

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I'm in Cambrian so very next door. I work one week a month and park in my old neighbors driveway in my Sunrader. PM me if you want me to come by. My schedule changes daily so don't know exactly when I'm free but maybe there's something I can help with. Or maybe not. You seem to have gotten the hang of this rebuild stuff pretty quick

Linda S

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A lot of good comes of asking here first.

The OD of the black water coupler is 4in, ID 3in. Its regular black pLastic, I should be able to convince it to hold or get inside a new flange.

The drain WAS exactly as described. A poke with a screw driver took the mesh off and a simple twist of the pliers and I have a mostly intact shower pan. All side plates, and corner adapters.  And for a bit of good news, perhaps because it wasnt ever used, there isnt any real sign of damage. Too dark to take pictures now, but this means I can pull down the remaining parts of the panels and can really focus on the roof next. Its the only thing left.

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1 minute ago, linda s said:

I'm in Cambrian so very next door. I work one week a month and park in my old neighbors driveway in my Sunrader. PM me if you want me to come by. My schedule changes daily so don't know exactly when I'm free but maybe there's something I can help with. Or maybe not. You seem to have gotten the hang of this rebuild stuff pretty quick

Linda S

Its a small world.  The RV doesnt drive right now, seats are in the garage.  But I am retired/flexible. If you are driving by and want to take a peek, I will leave contact information in an email message or whatever the forum profile permits.

I have only gotten hang of the tear down stuff. And its taken forever compared to most folks. This shouldnt be hard for me to do, under normal.circumstances, but we all carry our balls and chains to drag the feet.

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I've had my Nissan Sunrader for 6 years and my Tiger Provan for 4 or 5. Neither ever got finished. BUT someday. It is something to look forward too I guess. Difference is I also have one thats usable and it gets used a lot

Linda S

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The toilet ABS pipe there is 3in inner diameter, 4 inches outside. When they describe flange sizes, eg a 3in floor flange, which diameter is it? The inside of the ABS pipe below flange or outside?

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ABS  in these sizes has 1/4" or 1/8" (or so) wall thickness. You have 1/2" wall thickness so more than likely you have two or more pieces glued together.

SO with out sanding things back normal you want a toilet flange with a 3" OD

Edited by WME
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