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12 hours ago, redskinman said:

True,very true.I wish I could find the thread again,the guy that posted that said he had done exhaustive research on the subject,sounded like he had a lot of knowledge and so on but in the end who knows? I've found countless post of people saying nothing wrong with green and others saying don't use green

Yes some of them do sound very knowledgeable, well spoken, very technical info and dead wrong!

The only area of concern with antifreeze is with new vehicles under warranty, a different coolant will void the warranty. 

What Derek said plus.  The color of coolant means nothing, They can take the same coolant and dye it black, red, green or indigo and it has no affect on the chemical property's.  Also Toyota "red" coolant as near as I can tell was not even produced when our vehicles were manufactured.

Mixing coolant does seem to be an issue that I would avoid. Member posted this pic of red and green drained from system.  Need to turn that pic 90° some day. 

 

red green.jpg

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Toyota 'Red' was only introduced after 'we' went out of production, presumably in response to corrosion problems encountered with the metallurgy of newer engine designs.

The ''Red' and 'Green' might not mix, but it'll take a lot to convince me that it still wouldn't get pumped by the water pump and wouldn't still carry heat from the engine to the radiator. That's all that coolant does, when you get down to basics. If mixing the 2 together reacted to cause a slush or solid, that would be a different story.

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1 minute ago, Derek up North said:

Toyota 'Red' was only introduced after 'we' went out of production, presumably in response to corrosion problems encountered with the metallurgy of newer engine designs.

The ''Red' and 'Green' might not mix, but it'll take a lot to convince me that it still wouldn't get pumped by the water pump and wouldn't still carry heat from the engine to the radiator. That's all that coolant does, when you get down to basics. If mixing the 2 together reacted to cause a slush or solid, that would be a different story.

You saw the jug our other member posted a pic of with the red and green still not mixed even after coming out if the engine. Not possible unless it had a jello like consistency. Have to have the same specific gravity to cool equally and if still a true liquid they would have mixed. In my case since there was only a little green left gooey pebbles stuck in my radiator and clogged it.

Linda S

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So last time I drove the rig I didnt think my dash air wasnt blowing as cold so I bought this recharge system off ebay:http://www.ebay.com/itm/R12-COMPATIBLE-A-C-REFRIGERANT-MAXI-FRIG-12a-1994-OLDER-RECHARGE-REFILL-KIT-/122508929925?hash=item1c8619eb85:m:mvV-5TTd_xAnuXOWR7MTZtg

Pretty sure someone on here recommended it and it's got 100% positive feedback.So I went and picked up rig yesterday morning,temp was probably around 85-86,was driving it home and I thought dash feels like its blowing cold pretty good and digital temp gauge shows its between 53-68 degrees.So I get it home and hook up the gauge that came with kit,and it shows over 25 on the gauge,and instructions say dont add any refrigerant if your gauge reads over that.So now I'm thinking maybe its working fine but this old A/C just cant keep up with this over 95 degree 100% humidity texas heat.But I still havent ruled out the a/c compressor as being the cause of my overheating problem,and I dont know how you can rule it out besides replacing it and seeing if that fixes the problem.

So I have an A/C recharge kit I will make someone a good deal on if they need it.

On to the second thing I did to try and figure this overheating issue.I bought some dye to pour in radiator along with some special glasses and light to detect any leaks,specifically I wanted to see if water pump was leaking.I thought I might be losing a small amount of fluid,radiator level has been remaining the same but reservoir looks like it was losing some.So with waterpump buried behind timing belt cover I didnt know if I would be able to detect anything anyway unless it was leaking a lot.Well if it is leaking somewhere I could not find it,crawled under engine and could not find it leaking anywhere.

Can waterpump be bad but not leak? I mean if it's leaking you know its bad,but maybe it can be bad and not leak,its just not pumpimg enough,I dont know.

 

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After doing a bunch of due diligence I decided to replace my entire AC system and converted to 134a.   Had I not I would never have  found this and been cursing the 134a conversion for being inadequate.  This is not a nest, it is crud that collected in the evaporator over the years.  No amount of AC Magic Elixir would have given me cold air!evaporator.thumb.jpg.9e4fd84de1e327c0cbdbf5f3cc9e5764.jpg

 

The AC pro's consider 50 to 55° at idle on a 90° day adequate. 

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16 minutes ago, jjrbus said:

After doing a bunch of due diligence I decided to replace my entire AC system and converted to 134a.   Had I not I would never have  found this and been cursing the 134a conversion for being inadequate.  This is not a nest, it is crud that collected in the evaporator over the years.  No amount of AC Magic Elixir would have given me cold air!evaporator.thumb.jpg.9e4fd84de1e327c0cbdbf5f3cc9e5764.jpg

 

The AC pro's consider 50 to 55° at idle on a 90° day adequate. 

 

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That reminds me of something  I  forgot to mention. The recharge kit comes with a fitting to screw on the valve for the R12 systems so the fitting is the same as 134 and the gauge just pushes on the connection.

 Well mine had  The new style connector on it already which makes me wonder maybe it's been converted already ?

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A 40 degree drop between inlet and outlet temps is very good.

FWIW I went shopping for a newer car to be a towd for the new MH. Had to take the critters, the temp outside reached 96 deg. Turned on the AC in my 2007 RAV4. It idled for 3 hr with the AC on full blast,,, car was cool and never overheated. So it can happen.

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44 minutes ago, WME said:

A 40 degree drop between inlet and outlet temps is very good.

FWIW I went shopping for a newer car to be a towd for the new MH. Had to take the critters, the temp outside reached 96 deg. Turned on the AC in my 2007 RAV4. It idled for 3 hr with the AC on full blast,,, car was cool and never overheated. So it can happen.

Yeah I thought those temp readings were good,didnt mean to confuse anyone that I thought those were bad readings.

Your last sentence though has me confused.I would expect a newer car like that Rav4 to be able to handle it,actually I would expect the toyota motorhome to be able to do it,maybe thats asking too much.What i dont expect is for it to go to 3/4 mark after 20 minutes of driving and a 3 minute idle like its doing now.

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My point was if a RAV can do it a Toy pu should be able to do it too with some TLC Their both R134 systems

The RAV has a right sized AC system, the Toy MH is under sized, because its designed to cool a PU cab not a house. So add a separation curtain between the cab and house.

The RAV has an idle up function when the AC is running. You should be able to find a throttle kicker you can install. IF you don't already have one.

The RAV has twin shrouded electric fans that kick on with the AC. This is easy to do for you Toy

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53 minutes ago, WME said:

My point was if a RAV can do it a Toy pu should be able to do it too with some TLC Their both R134 systems

The RAV has a right sized AC system, the Toy MH is under sized, because its designed to cool a PU cab not a house. So add a separation curtain between the cab and house.

The RAV has an idle up function when the AC is running. You should be able to find a throttle kicker you can install. IF you don't already have one.

The RAV has twin shrouded electric fans that kick on with the AC. This is easy to do for you Toy

Ok gotcha

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4 hours ago, WME said:

My point was if a RAV can do it a Toy pu should be able to do it too with some TLC Their both R134 systems

The RAV has a right sized AC system, the Toy MH is under sized, because its designed to cool a PU cab not a house. So add a separation curtain between the cab and house.

The RAV has an idle up function when the AC is running. You should be able to find a throttle kicker you can install. IF you don't already have one.

The RAV has twin shrouded electric fans that kick on with the AC. This is easy to do for you Toy

Drove the guys on the AC forum bonkers, why my AC was not working right until they figured out I was trying to cool a whole RV with little tiny ac system :D   I separated the cab from cabin and worked like a charm. 

There is an idle setting on my 93 Toy on the evaporator case, not sure what it does? 

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10 hours ago, Gulfstream Greg said:

What about a thermostat that does not open all the way or a worn water pump impeller?

Replaced thermostat and radiator,possible on water pump.

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Water pump is a big job, any idea if and when the timing belt was replaced? Not saying the timing belt is the problem just that if you go for the water pump the belt, pulleys etc should also be replaced. Rare though that the impeller on a pump wears down enough, I have seen it though on fords with metal blade impellers. Curious if there is a way to measure flow rate in the cooling system.

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On 8/22/2017 at 1:27 PM, Gulfstream Greg said:

Water pump is a big job, any idea if and when the timing belt was replaced? Not saying the timing belt is the problem just that if you go for the water pump the belt, pulleys etc should also be replaced. Rare though that the impeller on a pump wears down enough, I have seen it though on fords with metal blade impellers. Curious if there is a way to measure flow rate in the cooling system.

No,dont know when timing belt has been done.Spent about 3 grand on it since buying in dec and taken 2 trips in it,tired of screwing with it.Toyota motorhome = moneypit.

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