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Now this will come as no surprise to you folks, and given that there are no pictures who knows if anyone is even reading along. But I tried to get some of the stripes off today. The test section is the entry door.

I thought I was well prepared with vinyl off type things, goo(f)-off, every kind of degreaser AND the rubber wheel thing.

Guess what, only the rubber wheel thing does something BUT it will smear the vinyl back into the shell IF the drill goes too fast. AND it does nothing for the glu strip that held the vinyl in place. All the x off, y off? Nada. Zip. Nil.  I have no stripes on the door but a clear raise outline of where the stripes had been. Thats the dried up adhesive strip.

The experiment did tell me my paint cover is in good enough shape that I can make it glossy and live with it. Perhaps zep at the end.

But the stripes are bothersome. Have you folks tried the heat gun? Thats something I have held off without seeing pictures/explanation from someone who has been there before. At what distance do you hold it? What do you scrape with?

Any recommendations?

Finally also, I have gotten to the places where the aluminium roof had developed holes, leading to rot that meant nearly all of the roof had to come down. Bondo? Aluminium tape from above and below?

There is a bit of cleanup left in the roof repair but then its ready to be rebuilt from the inside. If using some kind of construction adhesive or liquid nails to glue up stuff as it was before, how far apart must the hold up support be for it to bond securely.

For most of the roof, I am going with 1/4 inch ply instead of 1/8. So 1/4 inch above the metal frame, insulation in the frame and then 1/4 below. It will make it a bit heavier but hopefully also a bit stronger.

I am also putting in new cabling for the electrics, the old one was tired to say the least. What gauge for the 12V circuits? I am also running a 5V line in parallel with the 12V for USB options instead of doing 12V/5V conversion at the end. A little bit heavier but this is ounces of weight. I have gotten rid of 100s of pounds, so a few cables shouldnt matter.

thanks for the attention.

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7 hours ago, neubie said:

What gauge for the 12V circuits?

I believe 14ga was typically used at the Factory. Attached is what Dolphin used, as an example.

93 Dolphin - 12v Wiring.jpg

93 Dolphin - 110v House Wiring.jpg

93 Dolphin - Clearance Light Wiring.jpg

93 Dolphin - Monitor Wiring.jpg

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Thank you Derek, will look for 14 or better. Did just Gulfstream not bother using conduits or is it common to see just the wires running through the insulation?

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There was a bit of light left today, so here is the summary. Its empty and you can now distinguish parts in the engine bay.

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I think the universal design standard was somewhere between 'Cheap & Nasty' and 'Quick & Dirty'. Which is nice when you're rebuilding because it's hard to do worse! :)

 

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Here are more questions: in summary, what are the circled red things?

1. There is a single black wire with a bolt attached to it in the generator compartment? Anyone else have it?

2. The carb has lost its support contact on one side. Will bondo do?

3. There are three mysterious loose connections. One relates to the AC. THe black cable from the compressor goes into the black three wire doohickey, from there the red wire goes to the battery and the black one is loose. What is the doohickey? and why is this one wire loose?

4. There are two other open connections that dont seem to have partners. One is a connector that comes with the big ground connection  from the engine, its just two cables, one goes to ground, the other is this one. The other loose connection is from an engine harness too. Just this one connector. What are these?

5. There is a switch? below the steering. Its purpose?

20170726_200720.jpg

20170726_200638.jpg

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1. Black "wire" in generator compartment. This is most likely the generator FUEL line, don't remove bolt.

2. Switch PO installed, who knows what its for, follow the wires. Possibilities AC cut off for mountains, booster switch for dead truck battery. driver seat massage???

3 Clueless about the rest

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Number 5 switch below the steering column on the left. that is the dash dimmer switch. Knob is missing looks like this

Image result for 1987 toyota truck dash light dimmer location

I didn't even know I had one until about a year ago when someone on this site mentioned it. And mine has the knob

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Thank you both, folks. The battery is out getting maintained and I had the same hunch regarding the fuel line, dash dimmer. Dr RV is calling for a trip to sacramento, its still a faint call but I can hear it now!

 

Need to debug the electrical wiring in the truck. Will have to dig up the FSM. The truck AC at least doesnt cool. Which means R134a conversion, I suppose or does anyone know a way to recharge with the original?  

By the way, I am sure someone here has updated the battery isolator in the wall to a slightly more modern battery-tender or better. Any advice on which one to use For the most part, I plan of separating coach and cab, given the generator (to be added) and solar (to be added) and the low needs for energy today compared to the original design time. It might just be a switch after the isolator, like:

https://www.amazon.com/Zoostliss-Battery-Isolator-Disconnect-Vehicles/dp/B071D55VM3/

I think the OEM isolator is still good. Is there a reason to upgrade it?

Edited by neubie

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Well, I went in there to take a couple pictures and the next thing you know the whole kitchnette and ALL the electric cabling, wall 110v sockets and all was disconnected and lying about in pieces.

The reward: I know where the leaks were. I can take apart and clean and paint the oven. The sagging counter will get  replacement. There is no coach wiring to worry about.

The cost: well,the poor back that I never listen to is joined by countless joints in signing the pain petition. And a short section of propane piping to the oven. There was a retarded propane arrangement in place so I Am not heart broken by the kink that a plug will easily fix. So,the lower back, mainly.

On a serious note I can measure and cut plywood this week. Which is something, if not exactly progress.

Still a lot to do in the truck part before it gets redone.

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Not much has been happening of late. A lot of roof scrubbing for reinstallation. All that old goop and even rust in the metal take forever. No kind of scraper is really speeding up things.

The top layer of the old plywood is really melted into the metal where it hasnt gotten wet. I am tempted to start getting stuff wet! Nothing else is moving fast. Just tiny splinters being scraped off of the top 1/8th. The reason for doing this is to get some kind of level, clean surface for the new wood to stick to.

Also, while the spacing is under two feet for metal framing everywhere else, around the back vent, its nearly 4 feet of no framing support. Almost feels like someone forgot one. I will have to add wood.

The bathroom/back closet separation wall is out. The truck/coach separation wood panels are out. Pretty much everything is out now, trim and all. Just the walls, roof and the wall separating the bath from rest of the coach. Lots of bare screws just poking all the way through. The ladder screws are poking through the skin. The generator box screws are poking through and so on. Hundred different places with sunlight poking through right now.

Need to clear off the remaining bad wood off the roof (gets sprayed with soap and water tomorrow). Anyone have any good ideas on getting stuck on ply to come off? Every solvent is available. But I hate to try them randomly.

Also, how does the valve on the water tank to empty it work? There is a tap on it but its very hard to move. What is the WD40 equivalent on plastic so I can start cleaning the water tank.

thanks.

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what in the world is going on here? This "vent" is sort of over the entry door, has a short pipe hanging through the ceiling from the inside. What is it?

 

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And on the same note, how do you deal with this ugliness when you cant really get up there till the roof is fixed. Yes, have replacement vent cover kit. But how do you create a sane surface here to attach it?  how have you sealt with this and what kind of goop am I looking at here?

20170730_185508.jpg

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Anyone know what this bar along the width is supposed to do. Its right at the tail end by the ladder.

20170730_190558.jpg

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That goop maybe a product called  Dicor lap sealant . The other thing is possible tv antenna or satellite dish mount and the rail on the roof I have no clue maybe someone will tell us. Lol

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@neubie I believe that bar along the width of your Toy is indeed a TV Antenna. I've seen it mentioned in another thread on here.

For your OEM Isolator - I would just test it with a multimeter and make sure it's pumping some voltage back to your leisure battery. A Youtube search should show you how to properly test the Isolator posts.

For your countertop, consider using a lightweight IKEA counter - that's what I just installed into my Sunrader and it was a breeze to install the sink & stovetop.

Unfortunately, I can't help you much more with the mystery roof vent and other questions you had.

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I install my plumbing vents with butyl tape only. If you want you could put a small bead of sealant around the edge but I never have. Clean and simple. When you need to replace it in the future it's an easy job. And yes they don't last that long. In 14 years I have replaced mine a couple of times. They just don't make plastic like they used to

Linda S

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52 minutes ago, linda s said:

I install my plumbing vents with butyl tape only. If you want you could put a small bead of sealant around the edge but I never have. Clean and simple. When you need to replace it in the future it's an easy job. And yes they don't last that long. In 14 years I have replaced mine a couple of times. They just don't make plastic like they used to

Linda S

Linda, ctd, cjac,

Thank you. 

If its Dicor, hopefully its still goopy and not hard. Believe it or not I havent touched the roof from above yet. Because the wood underneath is all taken out, so its just the aluminium shell right now, wont support any weight. Its also covered in some skin irritant.  The images are courtesy a selfie stick.  A great over and under observation tool.

The preparation for degooping is the usual trusty putty knife, and a scraper on the multi tool. Am getting real bored scraping the thin ply off the roof on the inside, so may be its time to break out the tall ladder and start scraping the top! FML.

I can easily believe the unknowns are parts of a TV antenna, the post may even be able be mounted for all we know.

Re. the plumbing vent, yes it will just be butyl tape/putty and lap sealant. I am rerouting the ABS pipe, so the first step is to get it to be an empty hole with some duct tape on it.

The back wall seems to have a 3/4 inch in wood all along from day 1, patched with some trim. Trim. 3/4 in height air gap from one side to the other. Outer shell. Bad measurements? This was original at gulfstream and not any later owner. Seems silly to have this much gap in the structure, no support anywhere either. Need to take some pictures. The OSB doesnt meet the back wall properly either. Just the sides are holding the back, the OSB floor isnt even connected to the back in any way, there is a small air gap there too.

 

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ps: the isolator works. The house battery and everything else is out of the house and in the garage, so I might bypass the isolator entirely. There are some isolators now with LEDs and voltage readout, I think. The isolator is likely getting replaced with something newer in the medium term. I the short term less old cabling to short or drain the truck battery. When paint dries in the battery well, the truck battery will go back in so mechanicals can start getting tested again. 

The seats are likely staying out for a long long time -- the cab is being repainted, recovered.  So for now the battery is going back in just to keep fluids circulating in the engine and not have it rust for months.

Edited by neubie

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2 hours ago, cdt5058 said:

@neubie I believe that bar along the width of your Toy is indeed a TV Antenna. I've seen it mentioned in another thread on here.

For your OEM Isolator - I would just test it with a multimeter and make sure it's pumping some voltage back to your leisure battery. A Youtube search should show you how to properly test the Isolator posts.

For your countertop, consider using a lightweight IKEA counter - that's what I just installed into my Sunrader and it was a breeze to install the sink & stovetop.

Unfortunately, I can't help you much more with the mystery roof vent and other questions you had.

Thanks again for reminding me about ikea. However, I have never cut particle board. At least not successfully. How do you cut particle board?

The original counter was also particle board, and it didnt do great after all these years.

I was thinking 1/2 inch ply this time, properly supported of course. The sticks were certainly not meant to hold any weight as original.

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1 hour ago, neubie said:

However, I have never cut particle board. At least not successfully. How do you cut particle board?

So, the table that I used wasn't all comprised of particle board. It had about 1.5" of really tough particle board around the perimeter and then a honeycomb pattern in the interior space - similar to some Sunrader roof construction. The most comparable item on their website is probably this. I was able to reutilize the edging/trim from the portion that I cut off on the exposed side + a bit of caulking/sealant.

I think that the PO of my rig actually reinforced the kitchen countertop - I found it to be pretty sturdy after I re-squared it with a few screws.

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