Jump to content

Recommended Posts

19 hours ago, linda s said:

No longer made. Fix it you can. If you need to upgrade to a new one it's hard and maybe impossible to find one large enough to fill the space. have to make a filler panel to accommodate it

Linda S

Thanks Linda. Thankfully its mostly mechanically complete, including keys. Doesn't want to come off the door and I am picking the battles selectively for now.

There has been progress. The old carpet is gone except under the seats. The linoleum is gone too. The bad news is that the refridgerator was removed very recklessly. The good news is that the rest of the wiring is still nearly all functional. The monitor and its LEDs and sensors even work. The propane connection for the water heater is capped. So it was taken out some time ago.

The floor is softer than I would like. The roof has those two patches that need investigating. Given that the roof will take some kind of planks it will soon be time to peek under and see what secrets it holds.  The walls aren't terrifying, thankfully. And while the cabover window needs work from outside, the space itself is only in need of a refresh, and not a tear down.

 

pano.jpg

fridgespace.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A first application of dollar store wheel cleaner happened to the grime in the footwell. Its percolating, so to speak, for now. Its too dirty for a quick wipe. Tomorrow, perhaps one more round. A sander should arrive sometime soon, so a lot of vacuum, wirebrush, sand and repeat after that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Big job. I wouldn't want to tackle it. Hope all your fixes go smoothly.

Linda S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lets hope so.

There isnt a timeline, and the painting will most likely happen somewhere else. Once I understand what is needed I can try to find local resources. The initial cleanup and assessment is time consuming, and probsbly unavoidable to do by oneself. I probably cant tackle many things I already know so not a bad idea to find norcal rv resources for parts, painting, servicing of the truck, and so on. Anyone know/recommend any people/places?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For used parts craigslist is the cheapest but there is a place in Sacramento called Dr. George that has acres of all kinds of parts you name they got it. Not the cheapest place in the world but cheaper than new.

http://www.rvdoctorgeorge.com/

Linda S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There has been some progress. Weather gods have been very kind, and adding a move of mr. car closer where power tools can now be used means a lot of examination was completed. In one word: flimsy. Add the recklessness of previous owners and you have a fairly bad mess.

When we left off, the truck footwell and front in general was getting cleaned. Well, the rusted bolts finally agreed they had to come off with proper tools. With the seats moved, it was trivial to get rid of any remnants stuck to the floor.

Now I had tried various solvents to get rid of the slime that is dust, grease, oil, bits of carpet backing and adhesive. Lots and lots of adhesive. Makes no sense why you want this much of it. But it's there. So far, had little to no luck with wheel cleaners and such. Rubbing the goo(f)-off type solvents with a breathing mask on wasn't very attractive starting option for my lower back. So I tried my stand by home remedy -- oven cleaner. You know the easy off type. Its usually handier than toilet bowl cleaner types, which was the stand by. 

Easy off made mush of the leftover backing and took quite a bit of all the grime off. Encouraging enough that I would consider another couple rounds and then a rub/wipe with some goo-off solvent.

I also treated the door lock to a good helping of easy off. It finally understands me. But not before locking me in to the point of frustration first.

There is a black coating of some kind in the footwell. Not sure what the deal is there, but I plan on leaving it alone as the last (or original toyota) paint/primer coat went over it.  A wire brush disc on the drill is next after solvents. Anything left over is probably not going to bother the new primer/paint.

Yes, it all reads like a neubie. Probably because that's what it is. I have very little idea of what I am doing.

Off to the middle, the home battery is out and talking to a float charger. This revealed that a stone or *something* had fractured its plastic housing at some point. There is a small crack/hole in the black plastic rear wheel covers.

All the way back, it turns out there is a bit of framing in the wall between the loo and the cupboard over the water tank. But it doesn't get in the way of expanding the bathroom if all you want to do is add a sink, instead of the corner joke of a sink that would have been there had mr. car not been treated so poorly.

What does get in the way is a light, a 120v socket and most importantly the plumbing for the black/grey water exhaust vent. It goes up through that space to the vent. Again, not the end of the world, but it will have to be rerouted along the wall to the roof to the original vent. Just plumbing. shouldn't be hard. The light and the socket are easily moved.

So I will leave half the cupboard alone. The drawers stay as they are. I mean the organization will remain. The drawers themselves will need to be rebuilt. On top there is a 24x16 space in the right half of the cupboard that will give me my sink. The plumbing only needs small adjustment as the whole thing is moving all of 16 inches to the side instead of the old back corner of the loo.

The cupboard ply is merely wedged against the wall, and the bathroom wall is the thinnest ply we have all already met. There should be no problem cutting half of it off and the creating a sink space, mirror and roof lighting there. The loo has no door as of now. It will get a closet style sliding door now that there will be room when one of the doors of the cupboard is gone.

Next up, taking off the cupboards and hardware.  And then emptying everything that comes off under a tarp in the garage. And adding a tarp as cover against elements for the roof too.

1. Anyone have a handy link for the fridge vent replacement? Don't have one right now. There was a towel and duct tape there. As well as recommendations for grey/black water vent, and the maxxair/fantastic fan type solutions. It gets close to a 100 inside and improvements in air flow will help me last a bit longer than the few minutes a day I can do now.

2. Lights and choices for having a room light panel like your non mobile home. Presume lots of you have moved over to LEDs. The original fixtures are beyond yellow and have to go.

3. Cupboards and shelves? The front seems reusable but the bottoms are hardly worth restoring. Not in a great state and have had holes drilled for speakers of a sound system that is also coming off. Closets and shelves are for storage, not to be used as boom boxes. Is new plywood the way to go?

4. Corner seals. The old trim is mostly in pretty bad shape. The corners are, as usual a little hastily repaired underneath and are probably best resealed. Is a layer of dicor/butyl tape, replacement of the corner covers and new vinyl trim sufficient of a protection? Obviously some liquid sealant does in any irregularities.

Happy 4th.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I work really slowly, for various reasons. So, slow progress. The cab and coach are bare now, almost completely. Except for the 1. kitchen sink+oven+furnace, 2. the shitter, 3. the shower pan, and 4. the two ceiling cupboards that run along the length.

I was hoping that I could keep the ceiling. But now that I can touch them, there are three spots in the common leak places. So ceiling must go. Probably means cupboards come down first,then the roof panels and wet insulation go.

So, next questions:

1. what is the most favored insulation board and where does one get it?

2. The thin roof ply. How thick, what kind and where does one get it?

On a positive note Lowes had some clearance, that got me three ottomans and their cushions for 7.50 each delivered. If they dont cancel. These have a metal base. I plan on using them creatively for both seating and structural strengthening. If Lowes reneges on the deal, at least I know what I want and where.

If I can get past the 4 hurdles,then reconstruction of the coach can at least be thought of. By the way,markwilliams, all the lights have LED bulbs in them. But there is no mark or model to help. The housings are beyond reuse and I am going for a light strip on the kitchen side and a couple recessed lights on the passanger side. All LEDs too, but not sure which yet.

good day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Lowes furniture finally came, it will do very well when there is space ready to receive it in a couple months. In my quest for having as little space for dust to hide as possible, and lighten the load as much as possible I have ended up with both a metal dinette and metal bed/sofa. This leaves the whole floor area open to cleaning. Allergies and such, likelihood of cats wanting to ride along. Wood or leather is going to be in as few places as possible. Washable fabric, or cleanable metal, vinyl, whatever.

But, this is still far in the future. Still have to cleanup over the cab, take down cabinets, roof, shitter. Never ending removal.

Edited by neubie
whole

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

http://www.all-rite.com/hehr-glazing-bead-seal - 1/8 or 3/16? 

 

I was looking for rubber/plastic trim that goes around the windows. Looks to be 1/2 or 7/16 or 9/16 shape as in picture. All I can find are the U shaped ones that go over stuff. Anyone have a handy internet link. I searched the forum too but came up empty.

20170709_101305.jpg

Edited by neubie
all-rite

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey neubie, wish you'd have pics of the inside before restoring but Good Luck Man. You got a lot on your plate! If you look @ my post "Grannie got a Face Lift" you'll see the LED fixtures I bought. Made by Optronics. A good supplier of LED fixtures . Other brands of multiple LED fixtures I've tried invariably have 1 or 2 LEDs in their cluster start to dim, burn out or blink (the worst!) Same with LED light strips. Buy the best you can afford! Your descriptions are eloquent but for me pictures are worth way more than a description! Look forward to more from you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

mark, I do have plenty of pictures. In due time, I will create a gallery somewhere. The car is not in a terrible shape, BUT it needs severe TLC and I am probably going overboard.  For example, There was one soft spot on the roof, may be two. There is water damage underneath, wood is soft. And I have all but decided to give it a new roof under and over.

Part of the reason is car was mistreated by previous owners who had other things going on in their lives to care. Part of it is that materials and technology have improved so much, I can create a much healthier and cleaner, and lighter environment if I just went that extra step.

Here is upfront, by the way. mostly just greasy, but hasnt yet been touched.

20170709_185640.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Re. LEDs, thanks. These also seem to win a lot of praise on other toyota boards and amazon -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZVW0ZY

My other car wants what they call "error free" versions and even then has rejected them arbitrarily by refusing to turn off light-out warning. Add to that existing LEDs in car and I have a serious surplus of LEDs.

 

I will only have a light strip in the kitchen and four other recessed lighting fixtures, loo included. Those come integrated, I think. At ?east the light strip is immune to LEDs going out. You can just cut the one that goes out and rejoin.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Totally cant believe I am down to just the shitter and two roof panels left to go out. Also cant believe how bad things were for the person who lived in this for a long time.  water had damaged the roof panels via both vents.  So roof goes plastic instead of wood this time. Hopefully just another day or two or five. Then seal the roof and think happy thoughts of rebuilding the coach part.

20170712_141549.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The walls, floor, and roof are all finally bare after I had some help getting the cupboards out. In case you wonder why. Here are the two patches in opposite corners that led to the investigation. Simply repairing them was not an option.

20170713_132831.jpg

20170713_132812.jpg

walls.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

question: anyone want to chime in on how difficult it is to take out,clean and put back the furnace? Its under the oven and difficult to refresh without coming out. The gas connection is handily accessible. i dont know about the ports out the back and to the vent on the side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Le shitter has moved (its a hanflush low profile thetford hand flush destined for the bin) and was flummoxed by this new oddity. As you can see the previous owners, god bless, converted the unit into a high profile by adding three pieces of wood and surprise, surprise a bit of glue on piping. Or at least a very snug fit inside the old pipe.

Any suggestions on how to get the damn flange off so I can get the three pieces of wood out and get on with the rest of the work. How terrible is it if I cut the pipe below the flange. Its 8 inches above floor level as is, so I am not fitting a high profile shitter with this pipe either way.

Sorry didnt take pictures of the toilet removed yet, but you can see the loo+woodblocks here.

20170714_153708.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All the locks now work. The camlocks, crammed with crud and useless are now at least pin tumblers though if someone is keen to bung up the water supply that bit of plastic isnt preventing them. The deadbolt AND door lock now work, as do the truck doors.

A whole bunch of supplies have piled up -- flooring, roof and walls, paint and primer, lights,insulation. All waiting on the remaining cleanup: shitter piping to blackwater tank, shower pan, and two roof panels to go.

Hopefully, next week I can consider moving on to the building side of things.

On the negative side? Three holes in the truckbead behind drivers seat close to where coach meets cab. Bunged up with sealant by PO. Cant say it gives me any pleasure to look under the car right now. Its pretty hard to do this in these here warm climes.

There are a few odd rusted scratches on the hood that I plan on covering up next week. Stock color is 033. How far off is 040. 033 seems to be internet only option. I am thinking a basecoat of 040 will be better than leaving it as is.

Lastly, what is 3M adhesive remover? A tall spray can. Any good about the coach or the cab?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok. So a bit of cutting with a power tool and then a bit of struggle with the ratchet and we are left with an ugly stubby toe. The shower pan doesnt want to come off either. Its screw is out, but obviously it too is glued in. No hope of getting to anything underneath to free up something. See pictures.

 

1. I want to save the shower pan. And it has to come off too, so I can fix the issues underneath. So. How do I do it? Solvents? Cutting out the drain? What? Help!

2. The shithole (literally, sorry) was created by gluing the plastic flange and its pipe directly over the old pipe of the black water tank. See pictures. Dont suppose it can come off now? Just cut it to the right level and add a new flange at the floor level?

The roof is going to be a challenge in some ways, and not so much in others. The front vent had leaked towards the passanger seat corner. And there was a leak over the shower wall/sink area. The rest of the wood and insulation are dry. 

The question is, it doesnt appear there were any screws or attachments in the old roof, a thin metal.strip seems to be just sitting underneath the plywood glued to it.  It seems to be 1/8 ply + insulation + 1/8  ply sandwich. The metal frame is about 2 feet distance apart. This doesnt give a lot of confidence for walking on the roof. You folks not afraid of falling through?

20170718_122556.jpg

20170718_122520.jpg

20170718_122428.jpg

20170718_122356.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow isn't cleaning up the P/O mess fun.

What I ended up doing in the same situation was to cut off the new flange even with the old pipe. Then taking a 2" sanding drum on a drill and carefully sand out the left over ABS pipe. It takes a while to remove the stuff and not damage the original pipe. Of course between the original contents of the tank and the hot plastic the fumes are overpowering, get a fan going.

No idea about the shower pan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for reading.

All that sanding doesnt sound encouraging.

Thankfully, the tank was dumped and hasnt been used in quite a while, for many years it would seem. Even with a mask I didnt enjoy the plastic fumes, so it might be hacksaw time next time.

There is plenty of open room around the pipe.  How sad in the "not terrible" to "quite lame" range would it be to cut it level, fashion an adapter for the larger pipe and then use a regular metal flange on the floor. 

There is like an inch of empty room around the pipe if I can make a clean cut at the floor level.

The shower drain is metal. I hope there is a way to get to it. If I recall right the shower pans arent exactly easy to replace if I have to cut it out.

Still hoping for some group wisdom. The remaining panels of the roof and the shower pan are all thats left between me and the start of reconstruction!

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you! Need to measure how much the OD has become. Hopefully I can do better than the previous owner by setting it so it remains replaceable.

Will try all sorts of solvents on the gray water problem. i doubt it will work out without destroying the shower pan. However, since it needed a cleanup/repaint anyway, may be it will become a pan with two halves! Joined appropriately when I reinstall it. Not sure I have the patience if adhesive removers dont do me any great good as I fully expect.

Anyone know how the shower drain is installed on the line? Is it a push fit or a screw on?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I posted on the other thread. Shower drain is metal but should unscrew. Need little tool to fit into indentations on the inside.

Linda S

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So finally the cab and coach both are empty. the shiwe pan is out toilet is out. everything but furnace, oven, the fusebox and converter/charger are out. the oven got oven cleaner today. just to make it clean enough to handle. The furnace will come out.

The roof is half gone, a little bit more to take out. I finally met the thin aluminium strip on top of the ply board. This gives me a lot of confidence to keep working from inside.  Felt like replacing the entry door window today but held off another day. Tomorrow, finish the roof tear down, vacuum a bit, replace door window and see if we can get farther.

Parts list:

1. High profile toilet and its flange.

2. Water heater

3. a/c

4. fridge

No great hurry in getting them. Ebay has been having flash 20% off sales, will probably catch the cheaper parts in the next one. The roof is first up for fix up. Then paint inside. This will take weeks if not the month. Lets see. Imagine a great emptiness for now, hopefully pictures tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some necessities:

1. New driver side mirror. Still need trim.

2. New entry window.  In there but not sealed pending paint, cleanup.

3. Bathroom finally decontaminated/mould protected, ready for trimming the old black water pipe, then subflooring can be installed again.

4. sink and oven. I was hoping the oven and furnace can stay, but doesn't look like I have a choice but to pull and fix the sagging counter. The furnace is out already.

5. Roof, mostly out, interior vent covers out. Hopefully the remaining two roof panels can come down in the next week and I can fix leaks from inside, rebuild from inside before doing roof top repairs.

All of the side vents get replaced. All of the trim goes and both sides get new tape, and trim installation at the corners. Electricals will get redone, disconnecting next week. There is a ton of work left to do, but it will be a relatively clean empty shell next weeks, provided plans hold.

 

 

 

 

20170722_132918.jpg

20170722_133252.jpg

20170722_132859.jpg

20170722_132705.jpg

20170722_132632.jpg

20170722_132609.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×