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A project that might yield an MH someday from the ghost of an '86 Conquest


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It seems

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the fan comes on at 130f fin temperature, turns off at 115f fin temperature.

Anyone know how often the fins get to these temps. 130f is a bit high, not sure my conditions tested this.

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My fan set up uses a 130 deg switch mounted in the upper fins.

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Well, nothing should be easy. Now I have a 1 3/4 acme port into a tank in unknown condition. A 1/4 inverted flare and a 1 inch throw away thread. I thought I had every possible adapter and hose corralled but as it turns out these are all the ones I dont have. Sigh.

20180815_195246.jpg

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https://www.amazon.com/Camco-59123-Propane-Brass-Port/dp/B0014JG7RQ

basically the same thing. but i thought i had all the hoses already So bought only the tee and not the kit that comes with hoses.

so missing an adapter for one of the ports. tank started out looking pretty dirty so I want to test pieces of the system one by one. tank being the last and not a make or break part with the tee.

20180815_212106.jpg

Edited by neubie
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Got a pigtail finally in the mail. Connected a 1lb throw away into the system. As all connections were unplugged, they were all loose and bubbling. Luckily, only two -- fridge and a union to furnace -- will need convincing (by which I mean flaring again).

The appliances all turn on and off correctly. New systems had sat for months in boxes but dont seem to have died before being turned on. Even my refurbished stove top works. So hopefully, propane is done and tested soon.

But the flexible solar panel is acting up already in month 2-3. Output was not great for a 120W panel but voltages were correct. Of late, only 12ish volts.  Will need adjustment to the attachments to remove whatever flexing is taking place disabling some cells. If its not damaged permanengly.

Also, the new LEDs come on ONLY at night every now and then. Cant figure out what causes this yet either.

Still hoping an oil change and holding tank fixups are the major remaining known items. Hopefully, in a few days it starts getting use!

 

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Cajoled the propane connections into not bubbling. I notice the old flare connections were gummed/glued up too. I had to trim copper once or twice. Is it recommended to apply something on top of the flared joints? I know flared joints dont get anything inside the joint, but there was certainly something applied on top of the flare nuts.  If so, what is recommended?

I now have propane (I think) and dc (I know). 110v ac is fine EXCEPT the airconditioner wire is just lying in the front vent unterminated. I need to fix this better. Wonder how they got away with leaving it loose like that.

Water comes next. I think I can add a gallon or two to the tank without using the holding tanks yet. 

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I think propane is pretty much settled and tested. When the external tank is connected the 4-port adapter still sings a bit, probably the pigtail isnt quite the best quality. Nothing seems to leak. Need to fillup after the oil change.

Will try the holding tank neck surgery later today.  Add some water to the tank and try water seals and pump.

A lot of superficial stuff will remain -- a seal here, some tape there -- but except for the engine and transmission things are cleaned up. Not pretty yet, but installed, test, functional. Finishing will happen slowly over the coming years.

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There was a hairline crack beginning to form in the neck of the black tank. Poked a bit of two part epoxy, laid a couple of layers of fiberglass mesh around the neck and soaked it in thoroughly in the resin. A few hours later things are dry.  A little bit of oatey on ABS joints lower down and the holding system should be functional. Thought I had ABS cement but open the can and its dry as a brick. Another day.

Started adding water to the water tank, want to put in measured amounts to label the tank on the outside by volume. Next up water line test.  Then the holding tank cleanup and test. The repairs should be cured and set by then.

Hoping to get the battery combiner this week, clean up the engine a little and then get an oil change whenever they can get it in.

After that a lot of cleanup and washup and start thinking of stocking and driving! Finishing can happen slowly.

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 Amazon gave me an isolator. I stuck it in hodge podge. It seems to work. I dont know of any electrical issues remaining, though wiring cleanup is quite overdue.  Unless I see the apparatus on fire later in the day I assume this will do for now.

PSX_20180821_111850.jpg

Edited by neubie
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Pressurized the water system -- hot and cold. Probably should have done it much earlier. Before the furniture went up. Or even outside the toyota. At least before the furniture went up.

I kept the old gray polybutylene lines for the hot water section and replaced the cold water lines with braided lines and new fittings. The hot water connections arent long, so i figured its a manageable risk.

Added water by measuring to mark tank levels. Then realized it takes more than 6 gallons just to pressurize the lines. Add an accumulater and an empty water heater and gallon jugs werent going to cut it. After 6 gallons, I got tired and brought out the hose for gravity fill.

Thankfully, the pump and its pressure switch are in working order. Even if it takes a relatively high pressure level to turn off the pump. Fresh water tank level sensors and circuit are also working. And pump wiring is fine except that the water pump lighted switch doesnt light up. Not a big deal.

In the other corner, there were leaks despite my best efforts. And there isnt much you can do to crimped butyl lines. Cut, replace with new vinyl barb fittings, add clamps, hope for the best. Buckets were needed once paper, towels, and sponges ran out. Tightening fittings in most cramped corners always means a messy scratchy bloody affair.

After a while things are holding up to the pump and accumulator. Between water proofing and vinyl planks I am not too worried of the leaks. They will be dry within the hour.

Turns out the old water valves were badly placed too. The hot water heater drained right into the frame channeling water all along the length/breadth and making a rusty mess. New extensions attached somehow and hopefully a bit of duct seal and I will have water.

Left enough water in the lines along with new dry paper. The pump is off so I dont expect any mishaps, but will expand water usage gradually.

Holding tanks are still not cleaned up and ready for new waste, so that part waits for another day.

Its a fair bit of piping but PEX+compatible fittings are probably worth the cost in a renovation.

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I am not leaking.... much. The paper around the pipes is dry. Will leave it there for a few days of exercise of the system.

Added dually tire valve extensions. Not sure of the quality of extensions. They were bubbling out tons of air with soap water but they are surely leaking some. Need to go back and check tire pressure.

Airbags arent holding air for any meaningful periods. Slime time? Or spare the lines and replace?

Realised new poop hose with integrated fixtures wont fit in the bumper. bummer.

Cleaned up some. Entry door has thirty years of grime. Fortunately, both barkeepers friend and mothers work reasonably for bare aluminium. Much more cleanup still to come.

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On 8/17/2018 at 8:42 PM, neubie said:

Got a pigtail finally in the mail. Connected a 1lb throw away into the system. As all connections were unplugged, they were all loose and bubbling. Luckily, only two -- fridge and a union to furnace -- will need convincing (by which I mean flaring again).

The appliances all turn on and off correctly. New systems had sat for months in boxes but dont seem to have died before being turned on. Even my refurbished stove top works. So hopefully, propane is done and tested soon.

But the flexible solar panel is acting up already in month 2-3. Output was not great for a 120W panel but voltages were correct. Of late, only 12ish volts.  Will need adjustment to the attachments to remove whatever flexing is taking place disabling some cells. If its not damaged permanengly.

Also, the new LEDs come on ONLY at night every now and then. Cant figure out what causes this yet either.

Still hoping an oil change and holding tank fixups are the major remaining known items. Hopefully, in a few days it starts getting use!

 

Hey Neubie. i have a solar question for you. can the solar panes be used with any system. i have some SW175 sunwize panels. but i don't have the rest of the things. do i just go and buy any charger controller. 

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4 hours ago, tone said:

Hey Neubie. i have a solar question for you. can the solar panes be used with any system. i have some SW175 sunwize panels. but i don't have the rest of the things. do i just go and buy any charger controller. 

Solar panels convert solar energy into DC voltage/current. But your home appliances primarily run on 110v ac.  RV appliances run primarily on 12V DC and avoid conversion losses/complexity. So panels and controllers have branched to match the need.

This means solar panels for home typically produce a voltage outside the range of RV solar charge controllers. SW175 looks like a home panel that produces 40+V. You will have to match the charge controller to be able to accept that.  Your ordinary run of the mill

https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Paremeter-Adjustable-Regulator/dp/B06W5NP5JR

cheapo controllers are 12/24V only. They are likely incompatible with your panel. You want one that takes 12-48V range.

Edited by neubie
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It should be fine with an MPPT controller though, right?  As they are made to handle different voltages.  They are definitely not as cheap as PWM though.

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2 hours ago, Squirrel said:

It should be fine with an MPPT controller though, right?  As they are made to handle different voltages.  They are definitely not as cheap as PWM though.

Both PWM and MPPT flavors come in 12/24 vs 12/48 ranges. You need one that will go up to 48V. PWM/mppt is secondary. This

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Rover-Input-Charge-Controller/dp/B01MRWTAB5/

is mppt and will NOT work for that panel.

FYI -- https://www.sunwize.com/tech-notes/solar-charge-controller-types/

Edited by neubie
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I'm no expert on the matter, but wouldn't that MPPT controller take in the 40+V (from the panels) and output either 12/24V?  So long as you don't exceed their amp rating, of course.

Just an excerpt from that article you have linked: The Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) charge controller takes the PWM to the next level, by allowing the array voltage to vary from the battery voltage.

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20 minutes ago, Squirrel said:

I'm no expert on the matter, but wouldn't that MPPT controller take in the 40+V (from the panels) and output either 12/24V?  So long as you don't exceed their amp rating, of course.

Just an excerpt from that article you have linked: The Maximum Power Point Tracking (MPPT) charge controller takes the PWM to the next level, by allowing the array voltage to vary from the battery voltage.

Yes, but only within design voltages of the controller. Solar panels dont produce a constant 12/24/48 volts, the output varies all the time depending upon the sun/time of day. MPPT compensates for this variation better than PWM.

MPPT controllers have design max. input voltages, just the same as any other electronics component. I hope that is included in that article, otherwise its a serious omission. Google's top result notes -- "Keep in mind that MPPT charge controllers have a maximum system voltage limit that they can handle from the solar module array. It's important that you make sure there is no condition that the solar module array voltage will go above this limit or you could potentially harm the controller."

https://www.civicsolar.com/support/installer/articles/choosing-correct-charge-controller

 

There is no potentially about it, you will likely fry anything designed for 12/24V with 48V.

Edited by neubie
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Respectfully, I'm not disputing that it is possible to fry an MPPT controller.  I'm just saying that a 12/24V controller is not rated because it is limited to taking in 12/24V.  Controllers are rated by their output and by the amount of amps that they can take.

As an example, that controller that you mention above: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Rover-Input-Charge-Controller/dp/B01MRWTAB5/

Can output 12/24V, can handle 20 amps, but has an input max of 100V.

It will happily take 48V and charge your 12/24V battery bank.

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6 hours ago, Squirrel said:

Respectfully, I'm not disputing that it is possible to fry an MPPT controller.  I'm just saying that a 12/24V controller is not rated because it is limited to taking in 12/24V.  Controllers are rated by their output and by the amount of amps that they can take.

As an example, that controller that you mention above: https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Rover-Input-Charge-Controller/dp/B01MRWTAB5/

Can output 12/24V, can handle 20 amps, but has an input max of 100V.

It will happily take 48V and charge your 12/24V battery bank.

If the renogy has a 100v input max, then I was careless and wrong in listing that as an example of the limitation. The basic recommendation remains to not use one with max. voltage below max. panel voltage.

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I am sort of at a fork in the road. The house part is stuck back together, sealed, and except for drainage minimally tested. I am not any good at making things look pretty so things like wallpaper to improve roof appearance will happen after some use. There is another ziptie here and a cabinet there that could be adjusted but doesnt prevent use anymore. Just the normal thorough cleaning to go.

The truck part is now up and being illitrate in engines/transmission/brakes I lean towards an oil change and inspection for this year. Unless the head gasket doesnt like me,  in which case its doubtful any real use this year.

I think the oil change would be a good stop to this thread.

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  • 2 years later...

If someone wants this in norcal, i am open to offers. Cant do much with it myself anymore,.

 

Its from 86, so expect usual niggles for the age and have space/time to finish rough edges that dont show in the pictures.

 

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You put a lot work into this rig and not enjoying the fruits of your labor? I must be the opposite, I'd love to renovate mine but I know once I start it'll never leave the driveway. The previous owner told me Gary don't put money into these things they are a pit, only put money in when it breaks. 😉

 

 

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On 7/23/2022 at 10:21 AM, Gary_M said:

You put a lot work into this rig and not enjoying the fruits of your labor? I must be the opposite, I'd love to renovate mine but I know once I start it'll never leave the driveway. The previous owner told me Gary don't put money into these things they are a pit, only put money in when it breaks. 😉

 

 

Gary the virus basically took the time I had to enjoy it. Unfortunately life has moved in a different direction over the last three years and demands different choices. Better to let someone else actually enjoy it than have it just sitting as it does now.

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