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neubie   

Howdy folks,

 

I open this discussion in the spirit of dissuading the next person.  And the argument for not doing this would be a LOT stronger if I had documented the grave as I started digging. But the skeleton is scary enough. That said, may be this isnt a huge deal for knowledgeable folks. I know nothing of the subject spare the readings of threads here.

Here is what I dug up: a 1986 toyota conquest. Slightly different than the one gloriously decapitated on youtube. But similar enough. Rear bath. automatic. 100+k miles but smogged and registered.  Thats all the good news.

In the opposing corner, we have: no or near no appliances. The propane piping is complete. The convertor/charger exists. There is a water pump, and its operating circuit. Thats about it.  The floor will want its due share of attention. The roof has two spots that seem to need immediate care, but once dissected are likely to reveal nasty surprises. The front will need a total redoing. As will the bath. All cabinets, and so on.

Here, I document Mr. car as it is today, please peruse at leisure, the time to ask you questions about life and everything will be upon us whenever I can complete a dissection and cursory inspection.

http://imgur.com/a/MTLDz

Will add as I make meaningful discoveries or rectification/repair. Thanks for reading.

 

 

 

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neubie   

Ok, so here is my first question. Whats the recommendation for cleaning this mess? Please advise regarding solvents/cleaners and so on. I havent done anything like this before.

20170623_221608.jpg

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linda s   

Take your seats out first. No way to protect them from some serious scrubbing. I know people are probably tired of my Dollar store finds but the Wheel and Tire cleaner from there is amazing. That and a good stiff scrub brush and with gloves on, you will be amazed at how much crap comes off. Maybe some steel wool too. Little wire brush in the grooves

Linda S

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neubie   

thank you linda. yes, the seats are coming off as soon as i can manage it. That will be wednesday at the earliest. Other things take up the time until then, so i csn probably only do supply runs for the next few days. the dollar store solution is great. will give it a go.

From reading up it looks like the seats go first, then any remains of the carpet. Then a putty knife to get rid of stuck on bits of padding. Then some wire brush and steel wool type solutions. Then some cleanup with degreasers and solvents.  Does that sound about right? Lets see what a first round of tire cleaner shows.

Is rustoleum or the like something to aim for eventually? Or is there a cabin paint alternative There isnt all that much rust now, but there will surely be plenty of unavoidable crapping to expose metal.

There is a dried up leak of some kind here. And its not likely water. This cleanup is happening now just to make the environment a bit friendlier to nose and lungs.  The leak will get investigated when the demolition/cleanup is done.

Anyone know if the 1986 toyota conquest had a water heater then where one is likely to find it? There is an empty port on the driver side and one on the passanger side by the entry door. Both have sheet metal on them now, with no clue as to what if anything was ever installed.

The seats too will need to be completely redone. The foam and the fabric are ruined. But one thing at a time.

The floor will eventually get new padding and fabric just for sound/noise management.

2nd set of questions: is it reasonable to disconnect the coach battery so it can be assessed individually? How does the converter/charger distribute charge in these things? Can I disconnect at the converter/charger and hope the alternator will still charge up the truck battery? Or does the converter charger supply both? The truck battery isnt holding all that much charge either. What amps does the truck want with a dead battery for a jump? 400 seemed to do it no good. The little smart charger immediately threw an error when the key was turned.

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linda s   

The square door with the vent on the outside is your water heater. This one. Someone put a nut where the latch is supposed to go to keep the door closed.

jAcJn9v.jpg

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linda s   

Batteries, of course you can disconnect any battery and have it checked for free at most auto parts stores. Did you drive this vehicle home? If not and it sat a long time there's a good chance they are dead and might not be able to recharge. Coach battery charges directly from alternator when running. Charges from converter charger only when plugged in to shore power. A multimeter will quickly tell you if either of these things is happening provided you can get it running or can plug in.

Very cheap and sometimes free at harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-90899.html

Also good to check water level in batteries. Add distilled water only if needed.

Linda S

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neubie   

Hi Linda,

Thanks again. There doesnt appear to be anything in the water heater space then from a cursory look space. It has likely been cleaned up but I havent opened it yet. 

Mr car was starting fine until it sat for a week. Tried jumping with the tiny 400A charger and didnt have good luck. The charger saw too much starting current and shut down. Plan on getting a set of jumper cables today to try with a real car battery, also have a black and decker trickle charger coming.

Have multimeters handy. Including the Harbor Freight ones.  The battery is just low, not dead. The cab battery also has some charge. Not dead, but not sure how much capacity is left. Am holding off plugging in until I have checked the wiring.

The coach battery probably gets disconnected today, along with the converter charger whenever I can get wire labels and loose wire management setup.

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neubie   

Linda,

There is just a large gaping hole that was covered up with some loose insulation there where the water heater should be. This is the first part that I have opened that has yeilded rusted and derelict instead of just missing and misused.

Will need to post pictures. Welding is beyond me, so will have to workout a restoration plan carefully. If someone has a picture of what a water heater ought to look installed like in a conquest then that would certainly be very helpful.

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linda s   

Conquest doesn't really matter. they install in all motorhomes the same. outside

Image result for motorhome water heater inside hook ups

On the inside there are water inlets and outlets that are hooked up to your water system. Like this

Image result for motorhome water heater inside hook ups

I have never used my water heater. I don't miss it at all. The water in your tank is not cold like water from a tap. it's the same as outside temperature and in California that's usually in the 70's or more during camping season. My shower drains into my black tank and 1 shower could almost fill it. I do have a generator and a microwave so if I'm not near campground with shower or lake to swim in, I can start my gennie and get a hot wet towel in a minute. Clean up nicely with that 

Linda S

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neubie   

thanks linda.  Do these devices:

https://www.eccotemp.com/eccotemp-l5-portable-tankless-water-heater/

carry any reputation here? While I agree that california (which is where mr. car will also live) doesnt demand hot water, my personal needs tend to make a source unavoidable. So, mr. car will get its appliances back. And that includes, for now,

1. water heater.

2. refrigerator.

3. microwave.

4.  air conditioning of  some sort.

5. Solar energy arrangement of some sort.

6. a small generator as last resort backup.

The furnace and oven will have to be revitalized.

All water tanks exist. Though the straps holding them, as usual, have hit things that bent them out of shape. Fortunately, to no visible harm to the tanks themselves.

Day X+1 progress: Reinstall the truck battery after recharging overnight. Mr car started right up several times and seemed to run fine. Of course, I forgot to check the alternator. Not that it would make any real difference since its not driving or staying on for meaningful durations to charge that way.  Under the hood doesn't look very scary, there is some visible rust, and an odd loose wire or two.  In due time.

 

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19 minutes ago, neubie said:

Do these devices:

https://www.eccotemp.com/eccotemp-l5-portable-tankless-water-heater/

carry any reputation here?

 

 

IMHO, designed for outdoor use only.

"IMPORTANT: This is a portable, recreational water heater and should not be permanently installed or plumbed into any fixtures: sinks, showers, etc."

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linda s   

If the alternator on a Toyota isn't charging the brake and battery light both come on. If yours didn't it's probably working. easy to check the truck battery with the vehicle running though.

I do know that water heater has worked well for some but in the past it had to be mounted outside. I see no warning about that anymore in the sales info. Strange. It is too tall to fit in you water heater space though

Linda S

 

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linda s   

I have seen them installed on the outside back of a couple of motorhomes though and they worked nicely for them. I wonder why the altitude limits. Keep an eye out on craigslist Nuebie. Water heater do come up and sometime there are rvs that are getting parted out. Your space won't hold anything larger than a 6 gallon one

Linda S

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Less oxygen in the air, less complete combustion. Also more likely that products of combustion contain more CO than CO2. Same problem with any combustion process. Why generators lose output at higher elevations, carbs need rejetting, etc.

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neubie   

thanks all. Need to measure everything. Hadnt considered the box size conundrum.  The dumb rusted water heater cabinet scratched a finger, so I left it alone after a quick peek at the disaster.

The refridgerator and generator will likely be new, just for warranty service. But yes, I am watching both fleabay and craigslist. Craigslist in these here parts is unfortunately quite gougey and scammy to describe it humbly, but there are some reasonable items far and between. There is no rush on the water heater. Its still dismantling time. Then floor, walls, roof, wiring. It will take me weeks if not months to get past those.

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neubie   

Todays effort was ordering new lavatory sink + faucet + pipes and couplings. These were missing in action.  Will take a while to come yet.  The kitchen sink exists, as does most of the piping and kitchen faucets. So a trap here and there and some woodworking later I should have a complete system.

I am planning on taking off the wardrobe that is next to the lavatory (this is a rear lav jnit, wardrobe/some drawers on top of water tank/pump right next to the entry door.  The opened up space will house the sink portion of the lavatory.  There doesnt appear to be any real obstruction there, it looks like a pretty thin partition between the wardrobe and lavatory with nothing really installed on the top hslf that will move from being a separator between the lavatory and closet to the wall next to the entry door where the cupboard used to be. Depending upon the plumbing ( not to be moved, just rerouted or added where missing) needs, I might keep a drawer or two of the cupboard as it is. 

This is the only real storage but storage is easy to add as the sofa was never going to be resurrected and the top of the generator cabinet makes for an ideal place for moving the cupboard while creating a usable mini lavatory instead of the micro unit with almost unusable toilet seat/sink arrangement. From reading about it, it looks like this had that tiny corner lavatory sink next to the toilet seat.

Are there any structural/support issues likely just by taking down the wall between the cupboard and the lav? The rest of the structure will remain the same.

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linda s   

This is a very long thread but in it are tons of videos Ben made while cutting an 86 Conquest apart to make it into a band transport with some sleeping space. You should be able to get a better view of what's behind those walls and where the structural support is and isn't. He does a crazy good job of putting it back together. might help with some ideas. Oops completely missed the part where you already saw these. Oh well

Linda S

 

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neubie   

Thanks linda. That car had a rear kitchen, this one has a wardrobe in the rear and no window. It looks like there is just a thin piece of ply there. There should be time today to look it over and start measuring stuff.

Next question: There isnt much holding the original floor, the linoleum is mostly dying to get out by itself and the bottom appears easy enough to expose. Ben adds what looks like a new sheet of plywood and that is later painted as a floor. Do you need something, anything, if the floor will be a plank floor of some kind. The current arrangement is whatever that plastic floor originally was and a thin cardboard. Pictures to come.

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linda s   

I don't know cause I don't own a Conquest and have no idea how the floor is made. A hard plank floor though has to be put over a level surface. If your floor has soft spots or is uneven a sheet of plywood would be a good idea for sure

Linda S

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neubie   

Thanks Linda.

Today I had a first detailed conversation with Mr car, and it agreed to give up the 90% of the linoleum and its backing without any major argument. The floor is the same as in Ben's videos. I will need a sheet of plywood.

Some of the carpet also went, but a couple of the seat bolts are rusted and want a bigger intervention than the tools today could provide. I plan on snipping most of the rug first and then getting to the seats. 

The rest of the carpet should leave tomorrow, hopefully. And then remaining insulation under the sink, and bed. Then mr. car can come where power tools are available, and get its roof covered up to protect from any downpours. Am hoping to document the current state tomorrow as well.

I would like to make a change in the roof as well. How hard does one expect a replacement from the current fabric and insulation to something a bit more presentable? Any recent roof repair threads where people did a good job? Am looking through DIY as well.

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neubie   

Entry door latches, you know the ones in the attached image, are they now antiques to be restored. Or are they easily replaced?

 

thanks.

20170628_202749.jpg

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linda s   

No longer made. Fix it you can. If you need to upgrade to a new one it's hard and maybe impossible to find one large enough to fill the space. have to make a filler panel to accommodate it

Linda S

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Totem   
On 6/25/2017 at 3:01 PM, Derek up North said:

IMHO, designed for outdoor use only.

"IMPORTANT: This is a portable, recreational water heater and should not be permanently installed or plumbed into any fixtures: sinks, showers, etc."

I actually own one of these. They burn propane and make great hot water and I think they could easily be plumbed in, provided that the unit itself gets its own exhaust to the outside or is mounted on the outside of the RV.

The plumbing isn't the problem, the carbon monoxide is. That being said, the one I own i use as a "camp shower" and hot water provider for an  off the grid cabin in the woods... not for an RV

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