markwilliam1 Posted June 20, 2017 Share Posted June 20, 2017 I disconnected the long rod going to the LSPV today and raised it all the way to the coach floor and wired it in place. Not sure what to look for but couldn't tell if the valve moved or not.  Don't know if it's frozen. It's covered with a rubber sleeve. I can lower the connecting rod below where it was connected to the axle but raising the rod above the old connection point does nothing. It was adjusted to the lowest setting on the axle. The rod has much resistance trying to raise it above the old attachment point. I had to push very hard to connect the rod to the coach floor. I think the rod just bent some but couldn't tell if the valve moved @ all! I can't feel any difference in braking and the front wheels still lock up while  braking down hill in reverse. Any ideas? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 No suggestions Anyone?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 24, 2017 Share Posted June 24, 2017 (edited) Remove it. Its been done and the procedure is in the great long LVSP post. Edited June 24, 2017 by WME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 24, 2017 Author Share Posted June 24, 2017 Remove the the LSPV itself WME? All my brake lines are connected to it. I read the excellent posts and did disconnect the arm raised it up around 5 inches & wired it up to the coach floor. The valve itself did not move up. No difference in braking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee & Joan Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 If it is a plugged LSPV, and it sounds like it is, you can replace it with a T fitting as shown in the LSPV Thread. You moved the control rod "from the lowest setting on the axle" "to up close to the floor", but it did not effect braking, so your valve must be plugged up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 If you are talking about the load proportioning valve on the rear axle brake line, Â I would try bleeding it to see how that goes. Â Brake fluid does absorb moisture - I think it should be changed about every 5 years. Â Not hard to do - takes about a quart and a helper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Thanks Lee & Dan. I do believe its plugged. I did have a complete break job Dan and the lines were bleed. I'm not a mechanic Lee so adding a T fitting isn't in my wheelhouse. Maybe it'll unplug itself over time I hope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 A couple of videos about the LSVP, its simple. A clean up may get it working again. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx_UdT9RaR4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgYchFnp-vY Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Thanks WME but beyond my ability! Sure don't want to mess with old brake lines. Not a Master Mechanic like you Sir. Do you know of any way to try and free up the valve while it's still connected? Probably wishful thinking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 1 hour ago, markwilliam1 said: Thanks WME but beyond my ability! Sure don't want to mess with old brake lines. Not a Master Mechanic like you Sir. Do you know of any way to try and free up the valve while it's still connected? Probably wishful thinking! I am by no means a master mechanic Mark but after buying 2 different defective master cylinders and taking them back I rebuilt my old one. Cleaned the major gunk out of it, installed new springs and works perfect now. I don't even think the springs were bad. It was the gunk making the piston inside stick. This valve works very similar but with less movement. Yours is probably a mess in there and the piston won't move up. I might do mine too cause moving the adjusting arm on mine didn't change the braking either. I'm wondering if that piston inside can just be removed. Then the fluid would flow freely. Have the same effect as bypassing it but you would still have the ability to bleed the lines at that location. Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 If you look carefully at the first video you can see the valve body is full of rust and junk. That's the problem most of the time. Linda the control arm acts directly against the piston, if you remove it there maybe a big leak . The limiter is the bottom of the piston, maybe just cut the piston in half?? Dismantling and cleaning is the best option. MAYBE a pair of needle nose pliers can move the piston up and down to break it free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 Would really just need to cut off the top part of the piston. Wonder what it would do. Hmm Me and my big ideas always gets me in trouble. I'm safe for at least 3 weeks though. No driveway yet, only dirt. Not safe to jack up Linda S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 You have to take it apart to cut the piston, just try cleaning it. Make a flapper bore cleaner out of a dowel and a strip of emery cloth. A nylon bore cleaner would get the big chunks of crud, don't use a steel brush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Thanks All! Looks like a job for a brake mechanic one day. Do you know if a new valve would still be available for an 85 @ a Toyota dealer? The bracket where the arm was attached @ the axle was so rusted you could barely see any threads so I assume the valve itself is rusted shut! Bummer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maineah Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 There is no such a thing as too much breaking on the rear of a Toy Home. The device was for an empty pickup trucks to keep the rear brakes from locking up with no load not an issue on the MH it's always loaded. Bottom line it's not need on the Toy Home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 2 hours ago, markwilliam1 said: Thanks All! Looks like a job for a brake mechanic one day. Do you know if a new valve would still be available for an 85 @ a Toyota dealer? The bracket where the arm was attached @ the axle was so rusted you could barely see any threads so I assume the valve itself is rusted shut! Bummer!  Hope this page comes through complete. Yes there is a load sensing valve still available and lots of brackets and springs and other parts that go with it. Just scroll through the list https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/parts-list/1985-toyota-pickup/brake-tube-clamp.html?Filter=(d=USA;3=T1;7=RCB;9=HVY;13=IV Linda S Nope link doesn't work. You'll just have to go to the site and do the search but they are there Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 Thanks Linda! Found 3 different valves listed for a 1985 Toyota pickup. Around $160. Why 3 different part #'s? Anyway will put this on my bucket list! Have to check around for install prices. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
linda s Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 When you did the search did you narrow down the filter on the side. You would have needed to put in the weight rating and unlike many think ours is not a 1 ton it's called Heavy. only one valve for your truck here Home > 4791026070 Check if it fits by entering your vehicle info This part is a fit for the vehicle you selected: Change Vehicle 1985 Toyota Pickup United States Of America; Low Deck,Pickup; Regular Cab; Heavy; Incomplete Vehicles (Chassis & Cab) × Add New Vehicle 1985 Toyota Pickup United States Of America; Low Deck,Pickup; Regular Cab; Heavy; Incomplete Vehicles (Chassis & Cab) Check Fit View similar parts that fit Check Fit Change Vehicle 1985 Toyota Pickup United States Of America; Low Deck,Pickup; Regular Cab; Heavy; Incomplete Vehicles (Chassis & Cab) × Add New Vehicle 1985 Toyota Pickup United States Of America; Low Deck,Pickup; Regular Cab; Heavy; Incomplete Vehicles (Chassis & Cab) Check Fit Toyota Part No.: 47910-26070 VALVE ASSY, LOAD SENSING PROPORTIONING Your Price: $143.17 Retail Price: $199.29 You Save: $56.12 Qty: ADD TO CART Dedicated Service Lowest Prices Fast Delivery This part fits the following vehicle options: Production Date: 08/1983-12/1987 Fitting Vehicle Options: RN55, 75.. 10T, 3QT, HVY  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markwilliam1 Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 Your the Best Linda! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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