sailfritz Posted June 10, 2017 Share Posted June 10, 2017 Read some forum comments on electrical but not about my problem. Just bought this 89 Dolphin v6. Driving home at night the whole truck began to hesitate and lights dim/blink as if she were going to stop running then recovered, sporadic and not a happy camper now! I noticed a clicking coming from the electrical panel area in the camper. I replaced the 6yr old truck battery and isolator on firewall today. Auto store says alternator is good.The house battery has one large white wire on positive and a small red(see pic). The negative has a large black wire and 2 whites together as shown in pic. The converter area has a plate that is warming(my finger shows it) and making a clicking noise every minute draining the house battery. Whatever is wrong it is live with the engine off as when I put the positive cable(house battery) to the terminal she lightly sparks showing drain. What is happening? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WME Posted June 11, 2017 Share Posted June 11, 2017 Does it behave if the house battery is disconnected? There many folks who have reversed the house battery polarity. Check out your wiring 2X Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanAatTheCape Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 You might be working with a symptom instead of the cause. If the power is being interrupted at the engine side (possible for a number if issues), (I think you were describing such) then the coach could be reacting, even though I do not think it should be. On my warrior, when the engine is running, 12vdc is routed to the coach battery only. No relays should be kicking in the power converter. The only noticeable difference is dc voltage in the coach. The DC lights should brighten, and dc appliances (like a fan) should run slightly stronger. I have the same power converter and solenoid setup as you do. My PC clicks when 120vac is introduced and when it is removed. As for your coach battery wiring, one wire comes from the solenoid - when hot (ignition switch on) it should have 12.5vdc (or 14.4 if engine running) . One wire is a ground to chassis. Another wire goes to power converter (positive). other wires may have been added. On mine, a large gauge wire ran to mounted generator. Also a set of small wires went to an inverter. I would id the 3 required wires and using only those, see if you can get it to operate normally. The ground wire and wire to solenoid should be easy to id with a basic multimeter. the PC wire may require a little more sleuthing - finding where it enters PC and using ohms (resistance) finding end in battery compartment. AS for the sparking - my unit does a small draw - I have a propane detector that is always on. Disconnecting or connecting the house battery will give a small bit of sparking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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