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Found 4 results

  1. Well, my AC clutch bearing seized, the bearing race chewed up the ac compressor housing. Mine has a 6" pulley. Ordered one from Rockauto , it has a 5.5" pulley, so it will be going back Does anyone have any good part numbers for the AC Compressor? . I am guessing the cab & chassis is different from the regular toyota pickup.
  2. When I replaced the knock sensor & harness, I had to remove the intake manifold which means the fuel injectors had to be removed. Went online and considered sending my injectors to one of the shops that test & clean, I found some videos on how to test them yourself using hypodermic syringes, carb cleaner & a 9v battery. I did that and the injectors appeared to work fine. One of The pic shows part of my test rig. the small line has a smaller syringe that fits over the input end of the injector (the end of it is barely insight). You fill the large syringe with carb cleaner and use the plunger to create pressure, then touch the connectors for the 9v battery to test. There are some youtube videos showing people doing the procedure. Will try to get a better pic later, While investigating sending my injectors off, I also looked at what "new" (rebuilt) injectors would cost. I found several folks selling injectors that have 4 injection holes- supposed to make much more atomization of the fuel and get more power. Has anyone tried these? I gather our ECU's are supposed to be able to trim the fuel so they work with no mods. Here is an ad that has a video embedded for the 4 holers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-4Runner-Pickup-89-95-3VZE-3-0L-V6-4-hole-upgrade-fuel-injectors-w-video-/261228448791 The injThe injc The injector pics are of the stock injectors
  3. I had the dreaded code 52 (knock sensor) so I decided to change the knock sensor harness and after seeing how bad the sensor looked I changed it too. Since I had the plenum off and was looking at the valve covers I decided to measure the lash - all the intakes were fine and all the exhausts were too tight. I bought one if the tools which helped on some of the valves but I could not position it on others. On those I used a bent screwdriver. The curved metal tool which I found frustrating at first actually was quite helpful. The trick is positioning it on the edge of the bucket. I used a pointed tool and small magnet to extract the adjustment shims. I have always been good at math but the first time I tried to replace the shims, 3 did not work out right so another trip to my toyota dealer. All in all quite a job, Broke the EGR while removing the plenum so it is blocked off/ disconnected - for now and probably for a while to come..
  4. While traveling out west last summer I overheated - badly. Afterwards I got the dreaded code 52 (knock Sensor) When the ECU does not "see" a KS, it puts the vehicle into limp mode. Usually the code 52 is related to the knock sensor wire harness. To change either requires removing the intake manifold which means taking off the top of the engine. Since I was on the road I did not want to get into such a massive job if I could avoid it. After some internet googling I made a KS which I bolted to the rear engine hook (for removing engine). I had several iterations - first gluing to the hook one piezo, then 2 . The lower one would melt (too close to exhaust manifold). Eventually I took 3 (in series) and glued them to a small piece of metal & bolted onto hook. (JB weld=glue) These piezo transducers (AKA "buzzers") generate a small amount of electricity when vibrated. A KS is a piezo transducer. The ECU advances the timing until the KS starts reporting too much vibration (knocking) and then the ECU backs off a little. The KS harness connects to the harness on the drivers side rocker arm cover (fuel injectors). I was able to move the throttle body and get to connector underneath. I got the piezo transducers at radio shacks. I went thru 5 of them before I got something what worked fairly well - $1.99 at Radio Shacks and got one off ebay $4 or $5. I did get a code a few times on the way home. I would pull the negative terminal off the battery and clear the code.
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