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My Toyota Motorhome


Found 11 results

  1. Hi all, It's so exciting 😃! My wife and I are completely new Toyota RV Owners since just yesterday I bought a 1991 Odyssey Americana in central Pennsylvania. It is the Fargo 21.5' configuration and is in fairly good condition overall, low mileage (68K miles) and seems to run fine. I just drove it about 60 miles yesterday to pay a surprise visit to my parents and tomorrow I'll begin the 800 mile journey home to Wisconsin. We are very much looking forward to hitting the road with it. When my grandparents retired in the early 1960s they bought a "Scottie" camper and drove across the country with it. Now that we're looking at possible retirement, perhaps we'll follow their tire tracks 😎. While good overall condition, I'm reminded that this camper is 28 years old, no spring chicken, and it will need some love and attention. I figure one "RV-Years" is about 2.5 people years. So my "28 year old" RV is about what I'll be when I'm 70, which isn't all that far off. I'm posting some photos and hope to learn from the collective wisdom that I've discovered in this forum. Here are some observations and questions: We will probably keep the interior configuration, at least for now, and right now everything works (with possible exception of the water heater). We do want to rid the camper of the 80's carpet-on-everything theme. We will probably do laminate on the floor, not sure what to do on the ceiling. We're not sure what we'll find when we remove the carpeting. Any suggestions, especially for the ceiling? We want to give the exterior a major make-over, both functional (leaks????) and cosmetic (looks 28 years old). The first step I believe is to get remove the original stripes that were adhesive decals, but I want to do this without damaging the fiberglass underneath. In some areas, as you can see from the photos, the decals are already gone, other areas have a little remaining adhesive, other areas have relatively pristine decals still adhered. What method/solvents/etc. are recommended for removing these from fiberglass without leaving worse marks / damage? I was told by the original owner that the front window had leaked, but he repaired it with some super-sticky tape, perhaps Peel & Seal. Also, the window, which is plastic, is so weathered it's opaque. Or maybe it was originally that way. Either way, I'd like to see out of it, clear as glass. Two questions: (a) Are replacement windows available? Where? (b) How can I effectively re-seal this so I can remove the tape and not have leaks? The roof may have leaked at one point. I've read that the Americana has a rubber roof, but I can't really tell because a previous owner coated the roof with the type of material used as a truck bed liner, and the recent owner added a couple waterproof panels and some sealing tape. I don't see any present leaks, but I don't want to keep adding bandaids, I'd like to restore it to an original condition. Thoughts? Anyone tackle this on an Odyssey Americana before? The roof also apparently sagged / bowed in a little and left standing water on top. The previous owner reduced this by adding an exterior beam brace - you can see it in the middle on the last photo - to pull the roof up in the center to reduce pooling of water. Does anyone have tips on restoring the correct arch of the roof in a more long-term way, without external bracing? Thanks to all of you for your thoughts on this little restoration project. Looking through the Forum archives I see many of you have taken on much bigger tasks. This is not so daunting, but I'd like to get to a good start, get our new home-on-wheels fixed up, then hit the road. Scott
  2. My wife and I are close to purchasing our first Toyota motorhome. The vehicle in question (1989 Dolphin) looks great overall and the current owner clearly has invested time, materials, and energy in making upgrades. The ad on craigslist shows part of a reconstruction process to address past water damage. It looks like mainly to the overcab area and the exterior portion of the rear wall. The owner also freely states that he replaced the right side and rear framing with treated oak instead of fir as well as moisture resistant wood in the overcab area. On one hand, I appreciate seeing the prior damage but it makes me wonder what else can't be seen. Is it common for most non-sunraders to have some leakage, even if it never makes it into the cab or coach? This vehicle is in the central valley of CA, not a particularly rainy place. I've attached a picture of the rear exterior wall during reconstruction. Is this normal? Should I be happy the current owner is so upfront and transparent or walk away and hold out for a sunrader? Thanks in advance for your insight. I can link to the whole post if that will help folks help me assess...
  3. I have a rear window leak. I've heard all I need to do is pull apart the rear window, clean around put in some butyl tape and maybe add some extra silicone, and put it back together. I also have an overcab leak, it seems to be lined up with the seam over my overcab, so I guess I can pull off the bar that goes over it, clean it up, apply some butyl tape there, and put it back on? Is Dicor still the best thing to pour onto my roof? The thing is, my entire toyhome seems to have tape that uh... is probably well over 10 years old. Should I just take my toy to someone and have them re-seal the whole thing? Or is it better to not mess with an area until it leaks? If I'm thinking about mounting solar cells to my roof, should I seal before I do that, after, or both? If I should take it to someone, who? I'm in the mid-atlantic near DC right now.
  4. Hello all! I am new to the Toyhome world and would love to know more. I have an '87 Escaper with the rear driver's side bathroom (shower toilet combo pan). The other night the fiancé flushed the Thetford Magic IV and the handle stuck causing the toilet to fill up. I caught it before it overflowed but the blackwater tank was full so the water would not recede. When I went outside to dump the tank I noticed a lot of dripping, a whole lot actually. Thank goodness we hadn't been there long so there wasn't any blackwater actually leaking. What I am asking is, is there some sort of overflow valve? Or do I possibly have a cracked tank? I couldn't really get a good look at the top of the tank due to a heavy layer of what looked like the Goodstuff spray on floam covering the tank. Did it come from the factory like that? Or was it previous owners? Would I have to chip away and re-spray the foam if I had to replace the tank? Thank you in advance.
  5. Hey I'm new to the community and let me say I'm very excited to be apart of this, me and my girlfriend have recently purchased a 1982 Toyota Minicruiser. We're going to need any advice you can give us in the coming weeks/months as we will be getting into a full renovation. Already we've found water damage and rott(see pics), I've looked through a good few threads here and noticed a lot of complete restorations so I know we're in the right place for help!! Thanks Jacob & Jess
  6. I thought I'd start a thread on dealing with the bit of rot I discovered in the process of painting the interior of the RV. I had begun the painting process in the kitchen area and was working my way forward. I was due to head to my daughter's with the RV to stay and help her out for a few days after the birth of her 3rd and would be sleeping in the RV while parked in their yard. We have been having an extra wet winter here on Vancouver Island (and that's saying ALOT!). I had been investigating drip from the over cab vent and had been catching the drips with a basin. It was a slow drip and hard to pinpoint, but it didn't seem to be from the frame of the vent. Finally realized it was actually coming through where the rivets attach the plastic dome to the wind up mechanism. It dripped worse when the weather was windy as well as rainy. I checked under the mattress to see if it had gotten wet and found it to be quite damp. So, was removing it to take inside and dry out. After getting that awkward beast off the bunk, I noticed on the driver side of the bed platform that the wallboard wood look a bit warpy. On further investigation, it was downright rotten!! It is a fairly contained area, which I'm hoping is a good thing. The pictures below show the area with the damage/rot. The screws in the metal support right there are not holding anything. I have since taken it to a local RV repair place that was recommended to me by a friend. They were really helpful in showing me what had probably happened. The sealant was obviously pulled away from the trim and over time, it has gotten wet and rotted. They plan to peel back the fibreglass siding to get at it and replace the rotted area. The repair guy said as it was a Winnebago, it would have aluminium structure supports, making it easier to repair. They pointed out a few other areas where they could see that water would/could be getting in and said they could reseal the whole thing for me. They showed me around their shop where there were at least 6 other RVs being worked on. One was a 30 foot Class C Frontier with all the siding and windows stripped off. The owner was having the wiring redone, insulated and any areas of rot replaced. A huge job! It was a 1985! It made me feel slightly better about having to pay to have mine repaired. If it was cost efficient for the owner of this oldie to have all that work done, they couldn't be too outrageously expensive. I have mine booked in for Feb. 23rd. They will give me quotes on all the work prior to doing anything. They will call me as they work on it, getting my ok to proceed with what needs to e done. In the meantime, I have sealed some of the seams myself as we continue to have wet, wet weather. I have successfully stopped a leak that was coming in on the passenger side of the over cab with Pro Flex RV and was the reason the underside of the mattress was wet. I have had an electric heater drying out the rotted area and the new leak. I now have it at the back in the bathroom in the shower drying any wet that may be there where I found the seam needed to be sealed. I will update here as to the work that is done on it, costs and any further dilemmas. I did have to take it in to the Toyota dealer to have the hood latch fixed last week. My son in law was all set to do some work on the engine for me and wasn't able to get it open! It cost me $110cdn. for them to get it open and then clean up the latch mechanism and reattach the release cable. Yikes!
  7. Noticed water under stove area. There are 2 "headers" (Winnebago terminology) where 4 lines connect and a winter drain valve exists. 2 sets (hot / cold). Could not see source so I decided to "exercise" drains. OOPS! This camper has spent every winter in Florida - doubt those drains were ever "used". After popping the valves, they would not reseat. The pictures show what I made to replace the old "quest" fittings. Apparently "quest" was the mfg of the grey plastic plumbing used (per hardware store guy who claimed knowledge and per a RV dealer parts person who also sang the same story). I had to remove "header" (I would call it a manifold) and replace with 2 tee's connected together. After getting it all done I then realized the leak was coming from the shower connections - so more fittings! Now the shower faucet itself is leaking, so that is next. At least that leaks into the shower and stops when the system is now pressurized. First pic: "before" pic 10:23 shows original shower fittings pic 10:39 shows "after" -- Red tag show replacement part descriptions pic 10:29 shows what I had to cut off the end of each quest line after backing off the nut I guess I hit pic limit - will try to add more in reply BTW, I bought the parts at a true value hardware store. Salida CO - 6.99 for each T. Bought shower fittings in Buena Vista True Value - about $5 each. Also saw the T's for a buck less. Used a section of "shark bite" tubing to daisy chain the 2 Tee's. About $3.
  8. Hey fellows toyoters . New to the forum and trying my first post ! My 1991 itstaca spirit has been leaking power steering fluid for the last 5000 miles and it is getting worst !!!! it started leaking a little on the passenger side and now it also on the driver side and with the fix leak bottles from Walmart it did not even slow down the leaking . So now I have a place to work on it for a couple of weeks and I look at all these oily parts and don t even know where to start !!!!! kind of like a panic attack ! But , I know there is a solution for everything , Any of you good souls could put me on the right track ....?.....Cannot afford the mechanic. Got to do it myself !!! Thank you . r
  9. Hi everybody, This forum has been really great for finding info and answering several of my questions, so I figured I’d post my predicament and ask for your sage advice. I recently acquired a 1984 Sunrader 18’ with the 4-cylinder 22R engine and a 4-speed manual transmission. The odometer reads about 191,xxx miles, tho I have a receipt that says the speedometer (which includes the odometer) was replaced in 1998 or so. The exhaust was completely replaced by the previous owner from the catalytic converter on back, and the carburetor is freshly rebuilt. Previously it had a leak in one of the window seals which led to rot in the cabin that led the previous owner to “gut” it. Basically, all the systems seem to be functional (tho I haven’t successfully tested them all yet), but the interior has just a rough wood floor, some new wood ceiling, and a lot of exposed fiberglass. The only interior features that seem to be original are the over-cab bed, bathroom, closet, fridge and paneling that holds it, the kitchen sink, stove/oven and the paneling that holds them. Also, I still have the cushions for the dinette, tho some of them could use new upholstery. I’m beginning to think I’ve gotten in over my head. So far, it seems the fresh water tank has a leak (see photo) but maybe the winterization valve is open? The fridge works on 12v, but I haven’t tested it on propane or AC. I haven’t yet managed to fire up the furnace, water pump, or hot water heater, tho I believe they’re fine. I’ve gotten water from the sink, the toilet flushes, and the shower runs but leaks near the knobs. However, the bathroom/shower floor doesn’t seem to be draining, tho the panel says the grey water tank is empty. The rear dually axle, wheels and tires seem to be great, and the front wheels and tires seems fine as well. There are three batteries under the hood. In addition to the usual 2, there’s a Harbor Freight Thunderbolt “Solar” batter mounted near the passenger corner which is attached to a weak solar panel on the roof via a questionable Harbor Freight solar charge regulator. Also, every morning there seems to be dampness under the cushions in the over-cab bed. Finally, there is no spare wheel/tire or jack. Oh, and have I mentioned that I’d need to install walls and insulation? Meanwhile, my own skill set is lacking: I’m a computer geek, not a handyman, tho I’d love to learn how to fix/build all these things. So, my question is: should I proceed with the renovation, and learning all the skills involved? Or should I sell it to someone who has the requisite skills and buy another Sunrader that’s closer to plug&play? One option I've found nearby is a 21' Sunrader that's pretty much ready to go but it has the fooly 5-lug rear axle. Thanks!
  10. Hey guys, my name is Tim and I've been lurking on here for a while and figured it was time to join since I will be looking at a '85 Sunrader tomorrow. It's a 21" 2wd with 139k+ miles, EFI, a manual 4 spd and a 6 lug floating rear end. I was a Lexus and toyota master tech for 13 yrs so the mechanical issues I might run into don't bother me, but this is potentially my first RV and I don't know much about how things are supposed to operate on them. I can handle some external cosmetic issues but don't want to buy someone else's problem child. Since this is an older RV, I'm sure it's in need of some modern renovations and plan to do some reprinting/re-upholstering of the interior. I grew up camping with my parents in their RV's but I always slept in a tent and tried to remain outside most of the time. Now I'm married with a baby and want to start taking my family camping since some of my best childhood memories were camping, but my wife insists we must have something with a bathroom (ugh....ok honey). This is why my search for a cheap reliable RV has started. I am immediately drawn to toyotas because of my mechanical background and my parts connections within the toyota community. After reading around on the forum, I realized I don't want something that has had issues with water leaks so the sunrader platform seams to be the best option for me. I talked to the owner's son who is handling the sale and he said the cab needs to be repainted (because of surface rust in scratches that he spray painted), one of the front windows needs to be replaced because the corner is broken off and he just revealed one of the roof vents was leaking in the last rain and he re-sealed it. He says everything works, but doesn't know how to run anything other than the truck engine. How do I run the propane fridge? How do I make sure the tanks hold water and don't leak? If the broken window is one of the wrap around ones, how much should I plan on paying a plastic place to make me a new one? The only thing making me want to look at this RV is the EFI and a manual trans. Is $4000 too much to pay for this RV with the issues I already know about? Is there any other issues I should be looking for?
  11. just got a 91 itasca spirit which I like very much, but it has a couple of water issues. when I fill the water supply tank I get a steady slow drip from two small drain pipes directly under the fresh water tanks, doesn't stop until the water tank is empty. Number two is the two drain valves in the cabinet under the stove leak when the lines are pressurized by the pump. I started to disconnect the lines thinking I could just replace them but found that they were difficult to remove, guessing that since they were drains they must drain into something, probably the waste water tank directly under the valves. anyway is there any way I can address these issues without going to the shop??? thanks in advance
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