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Found 16 results

  1. Hi, my wife and I are looking for a Toyota Motorhome (Dolphin, Sunrader, etc.) and are confused by the pros and cons of the floor plan options as well as the potential benefit / drawbacks of the 6 cylinder vs. 4 cylinder engines. If any of you are in the Milwaukee area and would be willing to let us look at your motorhome and discuss the practical issues of owning/traveling in a motorhome it would be tremendously appreciated - we're total newbies to this world but looking forward to some on-the-road freedom. Thanks, Scott.
  2. I have no Check Engine Light! The FSM tells me how to test the ECU unit with a multi meter. but the normal operation should have the light engage when I turn the key and off after I start it. I have had the ECU unit rebuilt. but I have not retested the new part. I guess I will do that next. but first let me bring you up to speed. i have just installed a new block and tried to button up all of the electricals. There is no check engine light. I have looked at the fuses they are good or at least they look good. I have checked the big relay fuses in the engine bay. relays intact and showing 0 ohms resistance. I have pulled and switched the bulbs in the instrument cluster. the bulbs are good. charged the battery and tested the voltage it holds 12.8v or so. the fuel tank has 1/2 full fuel. the ignition fires. spark comes through the coil into the distributor down the lines into new plugs. timing has been set and double checked. my rig is A/T and it will crank in P or N but not the drive gears. FSM testing of the Ignition coil seems like there is low voltage if testing from the Positive side to the hole in the middle. It cranks but not as strong as I would like. it fires up on the first turn of the key but does not run. second try it fires and dies. third try it does not want to fire again. could I have a bad fuel pump or relay? If the Check Engine light does not engage is still should run though right? just poorly? if I could get the ECU to talk to me I could fix the physical problems but electricity is my nemesis. Please help me and flipper to get moving again! it is the season to explore and visit!
  3. Hi, I’m stranded in North Kingston Rhode Island, anyone know a good mechanic around here who might be familiar with Sunraders?
  4. The engine in my 1985 Nissan Sunrader needs to be rebuilt to the tune of $10,000+. It also needs a new U joint, spring bushings and muffler. The appliances, water pump, etc. all work and the interior is in fair condition. Needless to say, I do not want to put anymore money into it. It is stranded in Fairbanks, Alaska. Does it make sense to find someone who would like to part it out or just write it off to a lost cause?
  5. 1989 V6 Dolphin 65,000 miles: Got a quote last year for $500 from a local mechanic, which I thought sounded cheap. Then I was in a different mecanic shop in town the other day and asked them about doing a valve adjustment on my Dolphin. Off the top of there head they said 1.5 to 2 hrs of work and expect around $200-$300! Called them today and they called me back and said they would have to replace a gasket, and they could get the shims in town, $315! And it would be done before lunch. Is there anything I should be aware of??? The timing belt was replaced at 59,000 before I bought the vehicle.. Thanks, Eric
  6. I just bought my first RV an 87 Dolphin. I dubbed it Flipper. I got the unit in july of last year. this janurary I cooked the motor after installing a new alternator and failed to tighten the fan bolts to spec. the motor threw a chunk of the rod through the drivers side of the block. so I have gotten a new block. it will need to have all of the brackets , sensors and bits removed from the old block to attach to the new. any help would be great! I am currently at the stage in removing the old motor whereby I have to separate the flexplate or driveplate from the torque converter in the transmission to get the old block out. are there any armchair mechanics who have done this? the book that I have said to cut the head off of 2 bolts to use them as fulcrum to rotate the plate to remove the 6 bolts. they are out. how do I split the bellhouse from the trans?
  7. Hi, I dont have much experience in the RV world but i am planing a long trip to South American and I am thinking of getting a Toyota motorhome to do the trip. Do you think is it a good choce as far as mpg and reliability? If so, wich one is better 4 or 6 cylinder? Anyone has experience in long trip with these toyota motorhomes. Thanks so much in advance
  8. Hello Friends, I am looking for some advice on an engine issue. My temperature gauge starts creeping toward the red line after a couple hours highway driving, and it is very concerning as we are 3000 miles into our trip. It cools down at lower speeds and when at idle. I have a new timing belt, new radiator, new water pump, all new belts and hoses, new coolant, all new fluids,the head gasket was replaced in 1998, but I have no indication that anything is wrong there. I have stopped at multiple mechanics but since this happens after driving for a long period it never gets hot for them. My thoughts were that possibly we're overloaded, (I have not weighed us yet), the fan is not pulling enough fresh air, the new coolant was not flushed properly, or my expectations of the Warrior are unrealistic as we have been driving from NC to Key West to southern Texas in May. We have a 6 cylinder engine, 1992 warrior, 46,000 miles. Any insight would be very much appreciated. We are headed to Austin TX next if you know of any good mechanics. Thanks!!!
  9. I have been looking at RV's on Craigslist the past couple months and still cant decide between a Toyota or a larger Class C RV. I have heard that the weight of Toyota RV's put too much strain on the engine and transmission. Is there much truth to this? I am planning on living in this because I just moved down to SoCal and its way to expensive down here to rent. I will be driving it a few times a week but not planning on going on many trips. I might buy a motorcycle to tow as well I would also gladly accept any advice and tips on buying or living in a Toyota RV
  10. Well, my engine took a dive on me last weekend and I need a complete rebuild. I don't have the time to do the rebuild myself, so I am looking for some mechanic recommendations near Portland Oregon. Or if anyone knows of any rebuilt or used 22R turbos for sale let me know! Thanks in advance.
  11. For the gearheads. Link was recently restored. http://www.enginebuildermag.com/1999/05/rebuilding-the-toyota-3-0l-v6/
  12. Greetings Dolphin Masters: It is a sad day in Evergreen, CO. My 1986 Dolphin blew the head gasket today. I had some loss of power and my former mechanic advised me to have a valve job i.e new top end earlier this year. My thoughts and a recommendation from a brother firefighter were to drive her til she quits and replace the engine with a fresh rebuilt one. Any recommendations on a reputable supplier for rebuilt 22RE engines? Also, is this a short block or long block? what is the difference? does this matter? Fortunately, I have a shop available to swap the engine, just enough money (I think), and plenty of helping hands. Plan B is to put a used engine in for now and save for the rebuilt one (if I don't have enough money for a rebuilt one now). Jim at our local Toyota Bone Yard will sell me a used 22RE for $600; will run it for me before taking it out of the junk rig and guarantee it for 30 days. Your input is greatly appreciated. Truly, Stephen
  13. I have a 1991 Toyota dolphin. Engine V6 3VZ -E 59,350 miles Has been running fine but after a longer drive, stopped for gas, turned off engine, filled up, then when attempting to restart, it would not turn over. Just a feeble attempt then nothing. Then only the click of the starter. With a jump it started asap and off I went. Once home tested battery, it read 12.4 but since it was old replaced it with a brand new one with good cranking power. Started fine in driveway testing it out several days. Next major trip started up fine, got to camp ground, started fine after a day of rest, then again returning home after using a full tank of gas stopped to refill, same issue, turned key and nothing. No attempts to crank, just DEAD when trying to start. Attached a jump start charger and cranked over asap. now back home. Car has rested a day, Checked Battery amp and it reads 14.5 and she started up fine...so appears battery is holding her charge. that is not draining. Does not appear the alternator is at fault unless YOU have thoughts here, the starter does not chatter when turing the key like it is going bad? Or to indicate a hot spot in the starter....so I am stumped? Seems when she runs for a length and gets hot then when turned off it won't fire back up...needing some extra boost to turn over OR time to cool down perhaps but not sure how long or if that is the case. Any suggestions as to where to problem solve this would be appreciated? Had a VW bus years back that when hot the starter locked up so had to do the tapping trick with a hammer underneath to get er started but this does not appear to be the same as the starter chattered on turning the key. Anyone else have this problem or can give me advice as how to trouble shoot this? I am a novice with engine stuff but am learning......thanks.
  14. Greetings Toyota Motorhomes and Dolphin Masters: My 1986 4 cyl 22RE motor with EFI is not starting as it did since I bought it 2 years ago When starting the engine, it seems as it is not getting the correct amount of air. Similar to a carburetor engine when the automatic choke is not working well. I hold the gas pedal down about halfway. It used to start immediately without holding down the gas. When it begins to start I am still cranking it until it catches enough to run This started about 6 weeks ago during my current road trip. Fuel filter was changed 6 months ago and air filter is serviceable. Your help is greatly appreciated Truly, Stephen
  15. Anyone know of later engines with more power that will fit in the '76 Chinook? Or, a good source for rebuilt engines or trannys?
  16. Hi. I'm looking for some advice for my '88 Toyota Sunrader - 22RE. A few months ago it stalled while driving, and we couldn't get it started again. I had it towed to a mechanic and he got it started no problem, and could not reproduce the problem, so he gave me a tune up... new spark plugs, fuel filter, new belts, and a a new battery. On the way home it stalled again, but started again after a minute. He told me he didn't know why and to put gas in it. After a few more short drives, it stalled again on the highway, but started up again after about 10 mins of continually trying. It was still turning over just fine. Once started it ran fine. I didn't know what to do. Today, while driving on the highway, some stop and go traffic for awhile in the heat, it started running really poorly. There was no power when I accelerated. It was 'clunky'. In neutral its smooth, but in gear, its jerky and when I hit the gas, I get very slow response. It takes a lot longer to get up to speed - no power. I called the mechanic, and he says it sounds like its fuel starved. Well, the fuel pump was replaced last October, so I don't know how that could have gone bad already. I didn't drive it much over the winter, and have only been out on short trips since spring. He also suggested the catalytic converter, but I need to ask him why he didn't check that when he had it last. I think that could cause loss of power, but could that cause the stalling? My dad suggested it might be the Air Mass Meter (or Air Flow Meter?) I'm hoping for some advice from people with experience with this engine. Has anyone had a similar experience or have some insights about my problem? Thanks, Miranda Rose
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