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So lets start a fresh like @WMEsuggested and yes I do have a voltmeter ready to go! First off long time fan of the forum, y'all really have helped me gain the courage to purchase one of these RV's! A couple questions.... 1.) i noticed that when my car is running, all my 12vc lights begin to dim, then then moment I turn the car off or disconnect from shore source my lights are bright again? Does this have to do with my converter being faulty thus not providing enough recharge to my battery while my alternator is running and connected to shore? 2.)Might sound stupid but when I don't have my shore connection plugged into rv lots power source or my generator, where does one plug it in? Just in any old outlet inside my rv or is there a special place I need to be plugging in in order for my converter to work that maybe I'm just missing? thanks

Hello, I've seen some good discussions on here regarding Converter issues. I was hoping for help... I am the owner of a 1986 Sunland Express with a solar system installed. The solar isn't the problem. Recently the Converter started making a bit of a buzzing noise. And certain wires worked to light up lights or other electronics and certain ones don't anymore, like my water pump. I've gone through the fuses and don't as much as my limited mind can do. I think I need to replace the converter. Anyone know of the proper converter replacement for the Underwriters Laboratory Model 6346 Converter and Battery Charger? I saw this link https://www.campingworld.com/wfco-45-amp-universal-replacement-kit-58357.html On another discussion regarding converters. Any links of model names would help me out a ton. Thanks, Sam

So i take it that there might be a problem with my converter? Also in terms of rear view camera for backing it on up.... what do yall recommend? thanks again.

Hey all, just bought an ‘84 Dolphin 700 with all of the original fixtures. 90k miles. The original power converter is installed and it looks like the PO had wired in some solar panels and may have added a solar controller, although it looks like it’s from the same era as the converter. So two batteries, one right next to the converter, seems added, and the battery box that you can access from the outside. Both were dead and when I hooked up a new battery in the outside box the converter “Click” “Pings” and the lights go dim and then brighten in ten second intervals. I’ve done some reading and I think it’s the auto reset breaker, which I have located, but it’s soldered in and riveted in place. Doesn’t seem like a replacement item so maybe this PO really fried things? Just looking for some experience since I have never RV’d before. Thanks.

Hello, Anybody know what this is? (photo) Inside house battery compartment of 1992 Itasca Spirit. I replaced an existing older inverter with a new pure sine 1000 watt inverter in order to run an oxygen concentrator (420 watts) while driving. It worked perfectly for about 22 minutes. Then the inverter faulted and the concentrator ceased to function. We headed home instead of to the beach. Wife's birthday, not good. There was no DC power in the coach so I plugged it it to shore and the lights came on. Left it plugged for the night, pulled shore power in the morning and the lights go out. Started the engine, lights on. Got to fumbling around in the battery compartment and found the black box (photo) with 2 reset buttons, pushed the one labeled "rear pnl/conv 25". Lights on. (the other is labeled "battery charger 30"). I assume I tripped a 25 amp circuit breaker. My question is, What is this unit? is it possible to replace or upgrade without replacing the converter/charger? thank you Bruce

I'm currently dry camping on the west coast of Mexico. I don't have solar but have been using a generator for a couple hours daily to charge up the single deep cycle house battery. This worked fine for many months, here and elsewhere, combined with a few hours of charging off the alternator while driving once a week or so. Now, however, it seems the battery charging aspect of the power converter, an old B-W 6325, has ceased working. This appears to be the case because while the generator is running, the power to the 12v circuits in the coach is at around 13.2v but the power at the lug connected to the house battery remains at whatever voltage to battery was at before firing up the generator. Correct me if I am misdiagnosing this or testing incorrectly. I'll install a replacement converter when we get back up north, but in the meantime I'm nowhere near anywhere for another month or two. My question for someone who knows more in this area than me: since the converter is putting out 13.2v to the house circuits, for lights, pump, etc, would it be possible to put a jump wire in from one of these house circuits on the DC fuse board to the house battery lug? I could easily disconnect the lead that is going to this lug from the converter, just to prevent any weird loops or feedback, but is there some other aspect of the power to the house circuits which might damage the house battery? Perhaps too much amperage? (I don't have an amp meter with me so no way to test what that is.) The only other solution I can think of is running the engine, which works fine to charge to house battery but burns a lot of fuel. Thanks in advance for any assistance or suggestions.

Well, the list of needed repairs continues to mount—arghh... when will I be able to start actually using this RV again?! So, yesterday, I discovered that my Walmart Group 29 Marine Battery is registering <4.0 volts; I'm pretty much considering that thing toast... I can't imagine it would charge up again at this point (?). It is two years old, on the dot, and has been consistently abused, I assume, by the original Magnatek 6300 system in my Warrior. I have ordered a new Powermax converter/charger to upgrade my system, which I hope will increase the longevity of my replacement coach battery. My Question: Anyone found a good deal lately on a deep cycle battery that they'd like to recommend? Wally-World still the best bet for a sub-$200 replacement?

Hi everybody, The 18' Sunrader I just got came with a Duralast 1000-watt inverter that wasn't hooked up. (Nothing was hooked up bc the cabin/house was gutted.) I've read that it's important not to have both the converter and inverter hooked up at the same time bc such a circuit will drain the battery. So my question is: where is the converter and how do I disconnect it? As always, your help and insights are greatly appreciated!

Hello! I recently purchased a 21' 1986 Toyota Crossman, which my partner and I dubbed "Little Buddy." Little Buddy has treated us well thus far but unlike the other RV I have owned (a Four Winds Hurricane) the coach power does not work unless plugged into shore power via the pigtail. A post made to this forum by Jake_Womack earlier this year described a similar issue, which other forum readers suggested was caused by a malfunctioning relay or switch. Could that be the culprit in my case as well? Do I need a new switching supply? The Power Inverter in Little Buddy is: Series: 6300 A Model: 6336 My knowledge with electrical systems is slight, so your input is most welcomed. Thanks in advance! And in case it impacts the responses to the above issue, we also plan to: - add a generator (Honda - it'll fit well in the vented external storage area behind the drivers seat) - swap out the current coach battery with an AGM (Optima) - add an inverter

I am upgrading the converter on my 1988 dolphin. So far I have removed the old converter and traced out and labeled all wires. The new unit has yet to arrive. I have reviewed an online copy of the installation instructions from the manufacturer and they leave a bit to be desired. If anyone has done a converter swap on their rig using PD4045 converter, or any other converter please let me know what you learned. Once this converter is installed I want to install two 6 volt batteries in series. Have yet to decide where to put the batteries. Any kicks the correct direction would be appreciated. Thanks Dale

Well I installed the WFCO Parallax Replacement Kit over a month ago and these are my thoughts so far. The old Parallax in the 1986 Dolphin was not charging the battery at all. I read about all the different options and realized that there were better and slightly cheaper ways to go rather than using the Replacement Kit, but being old/lazy/busy; I decided to go with the easy direct swap. You can always find something on the Internet to scare you and I did read a post somewhere that the WFCO would never put out 14.4 volts. I've found that not to be true. I sometimes get the 14.4 volts reading and it seems to happen when it should, when the battery is right around full. You need that extra oomph to pump in that last 10% or so of charge. I don't know how it knows to do that but I'm happy that it does. So I'm satisfied with my swap. I'm a nerd and I've read everything that I can on the subject of batteries and charging and I've come to the conclusion that it's not Rocket Science. No, it's much harder than that; more like Quantum Physics. There are so many differing opinions!

Proving this Forum right again. Which always costs me money. I can't get a cord to the Dolphin cause it's across the road. So I figured I'd get one of those cheap generators just to charge the battery and run everything while I'm working on it. Coach battery was down to 12.16. Hooked up generator to power cord. Half an hour later battery was up to 12.17. Went down and got my battery charger, hooked it up to battery and generator. Half an hour later, battery was at 12.70. Full charge. Well I did read it on this Forum. The old converters are trickle chargers. Probably work better to just run the engine for a half hour. Or make some jumpers for the coach battery so that I don't have to slide it out to connect it to the charger. Well the new converter box moves higher up on the priority list.

I got an '82 Dolphin, with the original converter, no inverter, and I think it's causing a few problems... The 12v won't work off the battery at all. I checked the battery and it has good voltage. I figured I'd just keep tracing wires and measuring voltage until I found the culprit... anyone ever seen this happen? Also, when the rig is plugged in, the 12v power will just cut out, sometimes for a moment, and other times I have to go and flip the switch from "converter" to "battery", and then back again. One time, it shut off and I only touched the switch(didn't move it at all) and everything came back on. It's probably the old converter box, right? Is there a way I can do an exorcism on this thing? There are so many other things I'd rather spend a hundred bucks on. Thanks!

had a question but figured it out... couldn't figure out how to delete this post.

So, I need help deciding which upgrade to do before we head out on our trip....here's my thoughts: The Sunrader has the original Converter in it AND the original Alternator. Both are working fine, but I would like to upgrade one before leaving. I'm anticipating driving more than being stopped long-term anywhere (as we have about 8000mi. to cover in about 7-8weeks). Also, will be using a CrockPot (100w), very minimal Microwaving (6-10min/day), and charging my work Laptop/Cell phone while on the road. This has me leaning more toward the Alt. as the more appropriate spend. However the original 6300 Converter is old (very, glass fuses, etc.) and I would want this to function reliably when needed. Here's what I'm looking at: Converter/Board: http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/45-amp-universal-replacement-kit/58357 OR Alternator Kit: http://www.lceperformance.com/High-Output-Alternator-Kit-120-Amp-22R-RE-RET-p/1080050.htm ....Any input/alternatives/etc. is appreciated, Thanks!

Yesterday I finished the install of the Xantrex Freedom SW 2kw invert (yes 2kw is 2000 watts). http://www.xantrex.c...12v_newgen.aspx My 1.8kw Xantrex gave up the ghost so I stepped up to their newest model the Freedom SW. Talk about a MONSTER. It weighs 60 lbs. It is all digital including the 30 amp transfer switch which kicks over in microseconds if it detects a drop or brown out in the incoming AC current (either from shore power or a brown out from the generator). This one has a very sophisticated built in battery charger so I pulled my converter out completely since it would no longer be used. Of course..... Here is the requited eye candy for everyone The inverter next to the furnace (gives a good idea of the size of it) http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-1.jpg http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-6.jpg http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-7.jpg The unit has 2 cooling fans but I could not get it warm during testing even when running the microwave and TV continuously http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-2.jpg Because of the weight I did not want to mount it on the generator compartment so I built a shelf that is attached to the Surader's fiberglass shell for support. http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-4.jpg A few more pics (if you are not bored yert) Used a Moroso racing DC cutoff switch on the DC line http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-5.jpg This is the DC fuse for the I/O positive line http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-3.jpg I used Moroso racing DC firewall pass through to get the battery lines out of the enclosed battery compartment. This is a hole in the compartment with a sealed plug having battery post connections on each side so that I have a completely sealed battery compartment. The grey phone line is the battery monitor line from the charger/inverter. http://i586.photobuc...ter/sw_2k-8.jpg The remote control for the inverter will be in today then I can button it all up and move on to the next project Mike (AKA - turtle) 1991 V-6 auto 18' Sunrader, Downey Racing air intake, JET Performance ECU re-programing, Prothane poly suspension bushings, Firestone Ride Rite Air suspension, Downey Racing rear suspension, 4.56:1 Rear end gears, Bilstein shocks, Xantrex Freedom SW 2 kw inverter, Onan 2.8 kw genset,