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I've been going round and round with Airxcel tech support on this subject and am getting a bit frustrated with them, so I thought I'd drop the question here: I have a Coleman Mach roof A/C unit that's ~10 years old. It works well generally and is controlled with a mode selector switch as well as a manual thermostat dial. My unit has a simple, add-on heat strip which comes in handy for cool weather camping, and the heat function is activated by turning the mode selector switch to "Low Heat." The problem is that, when using the heat strip, the thermostat dial doesn't seem to have any bearing on its function—the unit just blows warm air constantly and always pulls about 12A, regardless of the thermostat setting and regardless of the ambient temp in the RV. That can get real toasty, real fast, in a tiny RV! And that is not how it was designed to work; the thermostat is intended to turn the heat strip off and on, in order to maintain a set temperature of course. The question is, "Why is it not working correctly?" If you look at the highlighted portion of the attached wiring diagram you can see that, in Low Heat mode, the hot/black wire is always connected to the Heater Plug. Then, when the thermostat is calling for heat, the white/neutral supply wire makes a connection to the blue wire, which is the other side of the circuit at the Heater Plug (in other words, it's designed to switch the neutral off/on, rather than switching the hot). I have tried completely replacing the thermostat, which didn't help at all. I then tried pulling the blue wire completely off the thermostat, left it dangling... and the heat strip still continued to burn merrily away! Bottom-line, it appears that the heat strip circuit is being completed via another path, bypassing the thermostat somehow and making it irrelevant. Which seems dangerous. How does this happen and what's the fix?

My thermostat is occasionally sticking, so I'd like to replace it. Easy enough, except the bolts on the housing seem to be seized. Don't want to snap or strip them, any tips? Tried searching past threads but didn't find anything. 1985 Sunrader, 4cyl 22RE. Thanks!

Very simple upgrade to the old-school, round thermostats that you find in most vintage RVs. Much easier to read/set accurate temps and takes less than 5 minutes to do the swap: 2 wires and 2 mounting screws. Emerson 1E78-140 (found mine for $18 on eBay w/shipping).

I have the 3.0 v6 in my sea breeze, against all better judgement with what I have heard about these I still got it... When I bought it it apparently didn't have a thermostat in it and I drove it home, 2.5 hours at 55-65. Once I pulled off the highway it started overheating and got it home with coolant boiling out. I had a shop install a new thermostat, flushed the system, tested it under pressure, and supposedly drove it on the highway. Said it was fixed... Drove it for the first time yesterday since it was "fixed" back in may and it over heated after 10 minutes at 25-50 max mostly going 35mhp. Same deal it had the needle in the red, pulled over and coolant boiling out. Had the heat on and it was just cold air. I let it sit for about an hour and drove it home, the needle would jump up and down and the heat would also come and go. I drove it like a granny barely accelerating and going real easy and still was bubbling coolant when I got home. Is it just a bad thermostat? Or am I looking at new water pump? God forbid head gasket! It has perfect compression so hoping and praying that's not the case.

First time owners of a camper. Need a few questions answered. Mostly about the gas and electric service.