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  1. After years of reading toyotamotorhome.org and dreaming of RV camping, we finally took the plunge. We bought a 1988 21ft Sunrader. The AC in back works well, coach battery is half dead, dropped the fuel tank to fix an evap leak to pass smog. Looking to replace the flooring (maybe cork, vinyl, or replace carpet?), LED lights on EBAY (thanks to the posts found here), and need to test the fridge. We will reupholster at least the couch, and maybe the captain's chairs. I am pricing solar systems (panel and controller) as well, probably will go with a 100 Watt panel and controller from Solar Penny as they have the best prices I've found. One of the curved front windows is broken. Called RV Advantage in Napa for the window, they wanted $300 for it, $625 installed! Will probably try to make one. Later, we plan on converting the exterior running lights to LEDs, figure out how to mount some bikes, and off camping we go. Thanks to the community for all the great info and stories.
  2. Over the past 3 months (since the axle swap) we've been prepping our little Sunrader for her maiden voyage....wanted to share our updates (mostly genaric) if only to provide ideas for others Sandblasted, repainted all wheels and hot water heater cover(hi-temp Rustoleum inside). All new Hankook RA08 (including the 5-lug spare) and a new gravity-fed water inlet (white circular - Camping World Item# 60332)...oh and front marker light assys. (Oreillyauto.com - Part # : 18-1153-50 & 18-1153-90 | Line: TYC) Our Sunrader had a Engine Bay-mounted size 24 house battery, so I rerouted it to the rear using 4ga battery cable and increased it to a size 29. Our original 20# Propane tank had been incorrectly modified with an OPD valve, so it was removed and replaced with an 11# (True Value item # 839316) vertical tank. I also added a 12ft hose extension so that the hose can be connected to an external 20# vertical BBQ style tank when stopped any extended length. Here you can see the coiled hose, remounted regulator, and in-line propane tank gauge (CampingWorld Item # 55643). I used the existing 8ga wire with auto-reset circuit breaker run to the Converter, and used 1ga run through the box using rubber grommets (Oreilly's...can't recall part#, but fit snug around their 1ga) for my Inverter using a 150amp in-line breaker. After much deliberation, I decided to go with a NaturePower 1000w MSW Inverter (CampingWorld Item # 67195). The reasons I chose this Inverter were: 1) It was cheap (even more so because I had a $25 one off one-item coupon) 2) It had GFCI, LCD, and Remote Switch 3) I could purchase (and return to, if necessary) from a physical store 4) My requirements were minimal - Microwave (5-10min./day max), Work Laptop, Cell phone, occasional power tool - it handles all of these without issue. Until I decide on which way I will wire it's power, I have simply attached a 8ft 10ga extension cord. I also purchased and mounted a generic Inverter switch (Napaonline.com Part Number: BK 7821734) which was surprisingly a bit of a PITA, but functions as it should. The microwave we are using is a GE 1kw (listed draw, output unknown but probably 700watt) that was my wife's from college which I didn't expect to work, but does and draws 750watts during usage according to the inverter's LCD. However, I did have to "modify" the feet posts using a ball-peen hammer so the cabinet door would clear the top of the microwave. In the left of that picture you can see collapsible storage bins my wife found at WalMart ($6/ea.) which fit perfectly behind our factory table (as there is no way in h___ a full-size human could sit back there comfortably). In the closet we took some advise from another in this forum (sorry i was never good at citing sources) and use an LED tap-light with auto shut-off. Also found some rubberized clothes hangers that don't rattle around when on the move. In the "Triple S" as I call it (because you could do all 3 at the same time), I replaced the vent with a new darkened one, the shower/faucet with an oxygenics kit, sanded/repainted/resealed the floor pan (used "Almond" Rustoleum appliance epoxy - a perfect match), and replaced the shower curtain. All works well, though the Oxygenics uses more water than I anticipated based on other's reviews. Installed Allure flooring (HomeDepot - Internet #202885489 Corsica Dark) which conveniently took 1 box +1 plank....But turned out nice and trimmed with painted pvc 1/4round and dark brown rubber transitions. In lieu of clearance lights, I used adhesive backed clearance reflectors (Oreilly's generic oblong). I went this route for several reasons: 1) My clearance light wiring was in disrepair, and I had neither the time or patience to replace/repair it 2) It was much cheaper ($1/ea, compared to $? to replace and rewire) 3) They seal flush, water tight (holes/screws filled with silicone), and generally look "cleaner" 4) I fail to see the point in these on RVs other than to be an incessant PITA to owners - I read extensively of Truckers removing there's to cut down on DOT issues....basically if they ("cleanly") aren't there, no issue - if they are and are non-functioning, ticket. I fell somewhere in between, so if/when I am stopped/ticketed I will remove and fiberglass to a "factory" look.....rant over. I removed the aluminum garbage that was riveted to the bumper (under which serious rust was forming), wire wheeled, rust-treated, and painted flat black. The trailer hitch was installed by the previous owner to pull a small john boat (no, there is no frame damage and the mounting appears structurally sound, although I would never attempt the same...especially with the old 5-lug axle it had), but I rust treated and black-glossed it and installed a cheap $60 cargo carrier to hold folding chairs, a dry-box, and perhaps a small generator - If I go that route. MISC UPDATES: 1) Installed additional Shower outlet in the J-drain to optionally bypass the black-water tank with a garden hose. 2) Re engineered the under-sink shelf so more storage real estate is available. 3) Treated the water-stained tweed headliner with Instagone (worked great! stains had to be 15+ years old, pretty much unnoticeable now) 4) Replaced misc. fan/drive belts with Gates. 5) 4" Memory Foam mattress topper and waterproof mattress pad..............I'm sure there's more... Getting closer and closer to a state of near-doneness (as it seems one can never be completely finished with these old toyhouses). I still plan to: *Fix Exhaust Manifold leak....ugh.... *Install a smarter/quieter water pump *100watt Solar system (still on the fence on this one) *New smarter Converter (it still has the original and glass fused board...this may be hired done at CampingWorld as it looks like a PITA to do the board....we'll see). *Etc., Etc., Etc.... Will post more as they happen, thanks again to everyone who contributes here; it has saved me countless hours of work and research. -Patrick
  3. I need some help here, my Sunrader has a horizontal tank that appears to have an "PDQ" (i have no idea what this means) OPD. This is a conundrum to me, because as far as I've read only BBQ tanks (vertical) are suppose to have these. Please help me identify what type of tank this is and weather I need to replace it, the hose, the regulator, etc. I want this thing SAFE and able to be refilled. As is, there are no propane leaks that i've been able to detect and all gas appliances work. As always, thanks for all the feedback and assistance!
  4. Has anyone ever been able to contact ex-Gardner Pacific (the Sunrader Manufacturer) employees / management and get any questions answered regarding numbers for campers manufactured? I have an 87 Sunrader 4x4 with the 22RTE and would like to know how rare this machine really is.
  5. Hopefully this information can help those faced with and old rusted fuel tank and non working fuel gauge. 1987 Sunrader (1986 Toyota pick up) with a 26.5 gallon Transfer Flow fuel tank. After conducting test suggested by my friends on this site, I decided to drop the tank and remove the sending unit. I found it to be completely rusted with no arm movement. The tank feels solid although covered in rust inside and out. The sending unit appeared to be modified to accommodate the tank depth. I also removed the fuel pump and stand to get a better look at the interior tank condition. Couldn't see much, the baffle was in place and everything was covered in rust and sludge. This sunrader had been sitting still since 1998 when I rescued it from Craigs list. After removing about 10 lbs of nuts and bolts from the bottom, (someone had been drooping in the fill line) A simple cleaning was out of the question. I called Transfer Flow (still in business) To inquire about replacement. $1,600 because they would have to build a new one. Transfer Flow suggested a less expensive alternative "Gas Tank RENU" . About an hour a half away, I brought the tank and pump stand there. $660. to completely restore the tank and pump stand. Not bad considering the alternative. www.gastankrenu.com I was given a tour of the process and was very impressed. I pick up my Re-Nu tank Tuesday. In the meanwhile I ordered new gaskets and a new Toyota sending unit. I got the new sending unit and was surprised to see it was the same depth as the modified one. Although the tank is 15 inches deep, the sending unit is 11.5 . I'm not going to modify it. I'll just live with knowing I have about 6 gallons left when on empty.
  6. Does anyone know how many gallons the gas tank holds in a 21' 1984 Toyota Sunrader? I googled it first but coudn't find anything for my year. Thanks
  7. I just bought a 1984 Toyota Sunrader 21'er. Its a fixer-upper. I plan on gutting the inside to make it the way I want. I have lots of experience with woodworking and fiberglassing (both epoxy and polyester) and plan on avoiding holes through the coach roof if at all possible (well, maybe one hole for the solar cell wires). I'm doing as much of the work myself so I can do it right and also to same money because cost does matter. I have some questions please... 1) Can I step anywhere on the roof without cracking it? I weigh 190 and heard a few slight crunchy sounds as I carefully walked on it. 2) Do I really need those little lights at the top of the coach? They seem like more places for leaks and would rather get rid of them. (I plan on glassing over a few of the existing access doors, etc. so will need to repaint the coach anyway.) 3) What is the purpose of that goofy little railing on the roof near the back of the coach? If it doesn't serve a good purpose then I will get rid of that too. 4) Since I'll be re-painting the coach, I plan on pulling all the windows out and recaulking them. What sealant/caulk will last a super long time in the tropics? Some of that stuff used on boats?? 5) In the area where the back of the Toyota cab meets the Sunrader coach, there is a little piece of trim. In my case that trim is cracked and funky. Can that trim be replaced without separating the coach from the front cab? If not, any suggestions what I could do there? 6) Any suggestions for a simple, cheap, durable, easy to set up awning? (I would rather glass attachments in place than drill through the coach) 7) I have no keys for the side door of the coach and the Toyota doors. Is it possible to have all three locks use the same key? If not, can I buy a replacement lock and key for the side door at a motorhome place (or eBay)? 8) I'm going to tear out the carpet in the front cab area and want to replace it with thick durable rubber material. Any suggestions for durable stuff that I can cut to fit as if it came from the factory? It would have to go under the seats too. 9) I want to remove that funny looking Sunrader trim on the side. Should I fill the channel with Bondo? 10) If I was to remove and glass over the two vent holes in the roof, do you have any suggestions for a cheap and simple way to move lots of fresh air through the coach - and even while raining hard? Thank you very much! Steve
  8. What are the cabinets and interior walls attached to inside a Sunrader? Did Sunrader glue vertical studs and horizontal stringers to the inside of the fiberglass shell as attachment points for the walls and cabinets? I'm asking because I might buy a Sunrader that will require a new interior and I want to know what I'll be dealing with. Thanks Steve
  9. Has anyone fiberglassed ALL the seams on the house part of their motorhome thus making it seamless kind of like a Sunrader? Thanks Steve
  10. Hello! I just brought home the 1978 Toyota Sunrader my brother gave me & it needs a TLC. For the most part it looks like just cosmetic work needs to be done... new flooring, recovering the cushions, new cabinet doors, fresh paint on the interior, & a good detailing. The little 4 cylinder engine still runs like a champ... okay, so a slow champ... which makes me think there's nothing wrong with it mechanically. After it warms up it sounds like any new car on the road. Question Part: The exterior seems to have cracked caulking along the seams where the cab & the coach meet. Does anyone have any good advice on how to do that? Should I sand down the old stuff & put new caulking over it? Does anyone have any other good tips a new RV owner should look for to make sure things are sealed up tight? Background on me: 100% small car owner who has owned 3 VW New Beetles over the past 12 years (2000, 2006, & 2003) & a 1985 Honda CRX before that. The most I've done to my cars was add racing stripe decals, change the oil (just once was enough for me), & wash them. So I'm sure this little RV from 1978 is going to have its challenges & rewards.
  11. I've read everything I can find on the rear axle issues, but can't find what I'm looking for. I have a 1983 Sunrader, and it as the upgraded 6 lug axle, but I can't find any information on it. Is it a later model Toyota axle? Is it from a different manufacturer? Did Gardner Pacific replace it with something completely different? Is it a 1 ton or a 3/4? What size cylinder and seals does it take? We've tried 3 different sets, but nothing seems to fit. Any help greatly appreciated. Ron
  12. Hi. I'm looking for some advice for my '88 Toyota Sunrader - 22RE. A few months ago it stalled while driving, and we couldn't get it started again. I had it towed to a mechanic and he got it started no problem, and could not reproduce the problem, so he gave me a tune up... new spark plugs, fuel filter, new belts, and a a new battery. On the way home it stalled again, but started again after a minute. He told me he didn't know why and to put gas in it. After a few more short drives, it stalled again on the highway, but started up again after about 10 mins of continually trying. It was still turning over just fine. Once started it ran fine. I didn't know what to do. Today, while driving on the highway, some stop and go traffic for awhile in the heat, it started running really poorly. There was no power when I accelerated. It was 'clunky'. In neutral its smooth, but in gear, its jerky and when I hit the gas, I get very slow response. It takes a lot longer to get up to speed - no power. I called the mechanic, and he says it sounds like its fuel starved. Well, the fuel pump was replaced last October, so I don't know how that could have gone bad already. I didn't drive it much over the winter, and have only been out on short trips since spring. He also suggested the catalytic converter, but I need to ask him why he didn't check that when he had it last. I think that could cause loss of power, but could that cause the stalling? My dad suggested it might be the Air Mass Meter (or Air Flow Meter?) I'm hoping for some advice from people with experience with this engine. Has anyone had a similar experience or have some insights about my problem? Thanks, Miranda Rose
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