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92Toy_IT320RB

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  1. What does "with the bend" mean? . Why is the regulator "with the bend" the wrong one? . What would the "the right one" look like?
  2. Partly answering my own question with https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marshall-LP-Regulator-2-Stage-Model-290-01-605H-BOTTOM-VENT-/272973526353?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10 excerpt from eBay description: "No Longer Available / Use Camco 59313 shown under Related Products. / Model 290-00. The regulator, unlike the old two piece designs, combines both regulators in a single compact unit. It performs the same pressure reducing function of a single stage low pressure regulator, except that it does so in two stages. The first stage reduces cylinder pressure to app. 10 lbs. and sends it to the second stage where it is reduced to 11" water column. Because the pressure is reduced in two stages, and because the second stage receives a consistent inlet pressure, the regulator does not have to work as hard. The result is a safer, more efficient system. Zinc die- cast. Molded rubber diaphragm. Second stage relief mechanism per U.L. 144. Mounting holes 3-1/2" on center. 160,000 BTU capacity. Inlet: 1/4" FPT. Outlet: 3/8" FPT. Dimensions: 5-3/4" L X 3-1/8" W X 2-5/8" H."
  3. @Derek Thanks for the link. What are the differences between the slightly different model numbers? . Are the differences functionally significant? . Will they all work satisfactorily in my application? [catalog 11] "Regulator-Two Stage M*Brass 273-00" [catalog 12] "Regulator-Two Stage M*Brass 293-00" [ebay] Marshall LP Regulator - 2 Stage Model 290-00 [ebay] Marshall LP Regulator - 2 Stage Model 290-01
  4. 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit 320RB The propane service valve, or shut-off valve [Manchester V20373/V21202 LP Service Valve] is leaking when in the fully open position, so I will be replacing it. . I have found the part on both eBay and Amazon. Since I will be disassembling to replace the valve, I think it would be a good idea to also replace the regulator and compartment at the same time: -- Per the Winnebago Parts Catalog, if coach was assembled "FROM 00-00-00 THRU 03-24-92" the parts are as follows: Number 11 - Winnebago p/n 076301-01-000 = Regulator-Two Stage M*Brass 273-00 Number 13 - Winnebago p/n 081938-01-000 = Compartment-LP Regulator -- BUT if coach was assembled "FROM 03-25-92 THRU 99-99-99" the parts are different as follows: Number 12 - Winnebago p/n 106150-01-000 = Regulator-Two Stage M*Brass 293-00 Number 13 - Winnebago p/n 105658-01-000 = Compartment-LP Regulator I'm not finding any of these parts online, so my question is: Can someone with experience in this area recommend an easily obtainable and compatible regulator (a functional equivalent) that will install easily in the same location, and work just like the existing one? Here is a link to the 92 Spirit parts catalog [LP System is described on page C-03, which is page 23 of the pdf file]: http://www.winnebagoind.com/service/wincd/1992/92it320rb.pdf
  5. Year & Model: . 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit 320RB I want to replace the foam-rubber seal / weatherstrip / moulding that runs around the inside edge of the passenger-side coach entry door. Looks like I'll need about 20 lineal feet of seal. a) . Do I need to use the Winnebago OEM replacement part? . If so, from where do I order it, and how much will it cost? b} . Or, can I use an inexpensive, good-quality, functional equivalent from eBay, Amazon, Home Depot, Lowes, RV Parts Country, Camping World, Autozone, O'Reilly, Napa, or other supplier? c) . Please make suggestions and provide links if you have them. In cross section view, the existing seal resembles a very broad and open "V" shape, with about 120 degrees between the two "wings" or "sides" of the "V". 1) . One wing of the "V" is flat and adheres to the door. . I call this the flat wing. . It measures about 3/32" Thick (in cross section) x 7/16" Wide (in cross section) 2) . The other wing of the "V" is curved [curved concave towards the middle of the "V"] and gets thinner toward the tip of the "wing". . I call this the curved wing. . This curved wing measures roughly 3/32" Thick x 3/8" Wide. . [The convex side of the curved wing is the surface that presses against against the door frame when the door is closed, thus sealing the gap between the door frame and the door.] See attached photo: . In the photo, the seal is standing on the flat wing (adhesive side down), and the curved wing is projecting upwards and to the right. [Note to Website Staff: . As I was creating this post, a spontaneous emoticon kept appearing in place of the characters "b)" . I was finally able to suppress the spontaneous appearance of the emoticon by replacing the text "b) . " with the text "b} . "]
  6. Hello to All, I just signed up, and this is my first post. I want to upgrade (not replace) the Clearance lights / Marker lights / Running lights on my 1992 Toyota Winnebago Itasca Spirit. There are 12 lights altogether 5 on the front, 1 on each side (low and towards the back), and 5 on the rear. I'll just be removing the snap-off plastic lens [measuring roughly 1.5" x 1.5" x 4"], removing the old incandescent bulb [BA9S 2-side-pin base, #1895 filament/globe], installing an LED bulb , and then replacing the lens. eBay, Amazon, web has MANY variations of BA9S-1895 bulbs. My current question concerns covered vs coverless bulbs: * COVERED BULBS: Some of the bulbs have clear plastic covers (over the top half of the bulbs), presumably to protect the LED chips and internal circuits from dust, dirt, moisture, condensation, humidity, etc. ** COVERLESS BULBS: Most of the bulbs do NOT have clear plastic covers -- they just have a cylindrical metal base on the bottom, and a little tower of exposed LED chips. 1) Can I get away with using the COVERLESS bulbs, since I will be installing them under a tight-fitting plastic lens anyway? . There is a much greater range of bulb choices if I go coverless. . Or should I go with one of the COVERED bulbs, as over time there may be significant intrusion of dust, dirt, humidity, moisture, condensation that could damage (and/or shorten the lifespan of) the bulb? My second question is: 2) . How many lumens? . I think the original incandescent bulb is 25 lumens, and the LEDs range from about 50 lumens (~50 mA per bulb) up to 300 lumens (~70 mA; the 300LM bulb is more efficient) thanks for your responses
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