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RGebm

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About RGebm

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1987 Toyota Winnebago Warrior<br />
    In rehab status...
  • Location
    Nelson County, VA

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    Male

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  1. Got 2 of those weathervane caps. They look like they will do the trick..
  2. I am coming to the conclusion that I need full roof vents...
  3. I am planning to remove the black water system/toilet and use only shower/sinks (graywater). I'd like to get rid of all of the plumbing vents through the roof. It seems some manufacturers already do this. Has anyone used studor vents and do away with the roof venting in this situation? What was your experience?
  4. That is what I was thinking - protect it anyway. I don't want to have to replace any more roof! I am planning to replace all hatches w/butyl, take off the edges, seal with that wide edge tape, paint the roof, then lap seal around any openings. I hope it works. I know it is overkill, but I think if I take my time and do it right I will be much happier in the long run.
  5. I suppose the thought is to use both to make EXTRA SUPER sure that I don't have any water intrusion...anymore... And for roof molding - I am talking about the l-channel edging around all of the joints. You know - the actual edging around the roof joints (around the entire RV portion). Thanks for the confirmation. Can't be too careful!
  6. I am trying to figure out the correct order to apply roof sealant / redo the roof. Aluminum roof on my '87 Warrior. There seems to be a lot of different advice/nothing clear on the exact order that is suggested. 1. Clean off old sealants 2. Rebed everything in new butyl tape 3. Remove molding, EPDM tape, replace molding 4. EPDM primer, then full coat 5. Lap sealant around "stuff" 2 Questions: So, does this seem like the right order, and should lap sealant go around molding if EPDM tape is underneath of it?
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