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Everything posted by Cynxing

  1. I replaced my defunct swamp cooler with a simple skylight that I can block if it gets too warm. The extra light is amazing. I had to replace all of my vents last winter after a hailstorm shattered them all. The 30 year old plastic snaps like potato chips. The vent over the fridge was the same way. In addition to the fantastic fan there are some solar fans I have used on my boat that are brilliant. West Marine has those.
  2. My dog is my copilot. He rides shotgun and usually curled up. But lately he has taken to standing and staring out the front window which has sent him into the foot well on occasion. He has a halter and a leash tied to the seat to help him not bash into the dash. Trying to put him in a safety crate just makes him cry.
  3. Hi Linda, I started doing the barrel chairs too - but just the worn seats. I'm going over the top of existing fabric for fear that the structural integrity of the chair/sofa would disintegrate if I started pulling off the fabric to reveal the pulpy foam. I've seen people do that roof thing with the totes. I worry that the weight of the snow after a storm will crush the 33 year old frame? I've just been offered a 30' tent. Maybe I could do both the tent and totes ideas.
  4. ModocMade I decided to hold off until next year to deal with the rug. I still want to use the camper this month and can't if it's all ripped up. So I plan to get a runner for now, and I've been reupholstering the chairs and couch (photo attached - blah plain but clean and neutral). More immediate is a shelter from snow. My landlady said I could park it this winter on a cement foundation that was supposed to be another garage but never got finished. It's a few steps from my door and I'll be able to keep an eye on it. But constructing a sturdy snow deflector with whatever I can find lying around here is going to be a challenge.
  5. Thanks for the response! My dog would wipe out like Bambi on ice if I put in just vinyl, but the combo of that and the fresh runner would be sweet. I'm a little nervous about what I will find under the rug. The floor is creaky. I'll take pictures to share if it's a horror show.
  6. My 1986 Dolphin still sports the original carpet. I have pulled it out wherever I can, but I'm afraid that taking it out from under the cabinetry etc. will open a can of worms that I wish I hadn't started. Last year I covered it up with a runner and that was ok. I want the noise and heat buffer but can do without the alternative life forms it must be harboring. Has anyone removed all their rug? Tips? Warnings? Thanks for any suggestions.
  7. In Tucson, a mere 6 weeks ago, the fuel pressure was measured as 30, resting at 35, by a real, honest-to-god mechanic. What would make it change?
  8. I put two bottles of techron into a full 16 gallon tank with gas loaded up at a time no tanker truck was nearby. The Toyota tech informed me that here in ABQ the winter gas supply is generally lousy, but that he gets Costco gas too and does not think water in the fuel is an issue there. Also that the altitude here is going to mess with my gas mileage. So... we'll see...
  9. "Joe" suggested putting a couple of bottles of Tecktron or Lukas in to clean the injectors and bring one for the road.
  10. So the chugging (for lack of a better word) is worse now - bad enough that I am at the local Toyota dealer (groan). Waiting to talk to a tech. No drain on bottom of new tank that I could see. Maybe there's something on one of the ends. The way it's behaving - now no power - having trouble getting up any speed on hwy - makes me think we are onto the injectors again. Running rich, that whole scene. Which could be the EFI / TPS computer part of the situation. It would suck, to put it bluntly, to have to check and change out the injectors, fuel filter, and spark plugs for the third time since October.
  11. New Clues: Mileage dropped precipitously from a bad 14 mpg to worse 9.5 mpg Also there is still chugging with a full tank from Costco gasoline (so I'm thinking, not bad gas). Will drive it again in a half hour after it sat and settled all night. Also the new tank is 16 gallons. The mechanic poured in a 5 gallon jug of gas in to get me started. The needle was at the bottom line so I felt I could trust that when the needle hit the bottom line I still had 5 gallons. Only this time that I filled up it was at the line and I filled it to 14.5 gallons. The mechanic showed me the nasty rusty bits that he took out. Expressed less than confidence in the float mechanism that drives the fuel gauge needle. Possibility: He left the old nasty fuel gauge float in there and a piece of it has broken off, plugging up the fuel sending area and throwing off the reading? History on fuel tank replacement - The mechanic was in a rush and sloppy. Left vent hose drooping and useless, for instance. Did a new fuel filter at the time (second one in a month/ 1200 miles), but his boss said to change this one out sooner than normal, which tells me that there was some part of the fuel delivery system that was not flushed and he knew it. Is a fuel pressure gauge something I can get at a Napa or OReilly's? There's a spot on the dash free. I was going to put a tach there but it may as well be fuel pressure. I'm in NM, so pretty arid. Water in gas not likely unless from the pump that way. Will check back this afternoon.
  12. 1986 Toyota 22RE EFI Dolphin Another test drive from the boonies to the big city of ABQ today. Humming along nicely at 55 - 60 there are intermittent sluggish moments of power loss. It's not gradual. It's like a big head wind hit us. Or someone gave our invisible Dolphin tail a yank to slow us down a second. BAM! and then normal for a mile or two or three. Not backfiring audibly. Not driving in windy conditions and it happens when there are no semi trucks sucking the back tires. Guess: Even though the gas tank was replaced with a new one in Tucson ( a month ago ) there are still bits of stuff floating around that are swimming to the front of the line and blocking to create that power loss moment. Reason and Test: Started on a half tank and seemed to get worse as the tank went down. Have about 6-7 gallons left and will test by filling the tank to see if it's still happening in the morning. Guess: It has something to do with the codes 4&5 still flashing ( H20 heat sensor and 02 sensor respectively - both replaced but not with OEM Toyota parts. New H20 sensor priced at $102 - cough cough cough). I don't really think the hiccup in the drive and the sensors are connected. Yeah, I'm tired of this problem too. Any new thoughts or suggested tests I could try? Thanks in advance.
  13. Good idea. I used something like it for my custom window covers. Wish I'd thought to stick the rest under the front seat carpet. The rig does get awful hot. The new muffler (put in by POs) ticks audibly during cool down after driving a while. I had the radiator rodded, so I'm not worried about the engine so much, but it's pretty toasty under the cab.
  14. Emboldened from my victory over the stinky "saddlebag caddy" I am looking at the O2 and water thermo sensors again. Two observations - unlikely but you never know - The plastic clip that snaps into the water thermo sensor is not very tight - one edge of the plastic is broken - and it is not lined up flat with the other sensor to the left of it. Does that matter? Would that make the code come up? When I screwed in the new sensor I was moving fast to prevent too much radiator fluid from escaping. Should the two sensors line up flat? Other than that I guess I could replace the snap on connector piece...?
  15. I WIN !!!! And it only took me four months to figure it out. oh well. The POs left a plastic caddy between the seats. On hot days it would heat up - and stink. When the truck ran for long enough to get hot, it would heat from beneath - and stink. The vents where it smelled the strongest - were right above it. I used a hair dryer (had to borrow one, don't own such a thing) to heat it up and yuppity yup yup that was the smell. So cooking plastic. Yum. Bet I lost a few brain cells on that one. Thank you all for your suggestions. And now I know how to take apart the dash (and put it back together) and how to fix the squeak in the steering.
  16. Lo and behold, a new clue. I haven't gone anywhere for five days and haven't smelled The Smell for at least 2 weeks. Today the temp got up to about 66 with the sun shining down hard on the dash and hood. The smell came back to the point where I have to open the windows to breathe. Strongest from the right center vent. What would do this????!!!!!! There's nothing to see!!! Ambient heat triggers it and you don't have to drive to get it going.
  17. YES, I have a pile of the old stuff - and new spares - piling up just in case. The old O2 sensor is pitched, however because the wires were severed. I think it's interesting that the computer codes were mute until I started messing around with the TPS. After I started "fixing" things the computer got chatty. Maybe it has developed AI and is trying to keep me on the roll of replacing parts to stay alive as long as possible. Can you tell I have Cabin Fever? Wind gusts up to 40 kts. all day.
  18. Hey Tim, don't give up. If you can expand your range into WA and OR, there are tons of RVs up there - got to watch out for the water damage though. I saw a beautifully maintained Sunrader near Portland but he wanted $10K for it. I could pass his info to you if you would like to see if he has come down in price. I had over a dozen rigs on my list (check Santa Barbara) and saw half of them before finding one in San Bernardino. It was a bit weird. They were asking 8k, I said I could only pay 5k, and they said they would take 4k. I think they were tired of tire kickers and paying the storage fee. I wasted no time running down there to pick it up. In retrospect considering what I've had to do - and still have to do to the Dolphin - I think 4 was a fair price. So it can be done. Maybe find a polite and respectful way to let them know what kind of cash you can offer that doesn't waste their time but gives them an option to reconsider their price? Also, like boats and houses, RV purchases are emotional, not rational purchases. The POs of my Dolphin had a need to be happy with the person who bought their rig - as I did when I sold my boat. So don't discount the possibility that you will be the right "fit" for the purchase. Nothing ventured, nothing gained, right? Also, thanks to the wildfires, SoCal is a lousy place to look for rigs right now. RVs were getting snapped up by people desperate for somewhere to live after that, and I'm guessing the market is thin now.
  19. So - codes 4 & 5 are flashing again. They are the H20 thermo sensor and 02 sensor respectively. Both have been replaced by me since December and February. After replacing 02 sensor, no codes for over a month. Replaced the H20 sensor to deal with the code that popped up a few weeks ago. Stopped briefly when I cleared the codes, and then started again when I started driving. Drives well, if not a bit sluggish on inclines - but I sort of expect that. Retired Toyota mechanic in nearby RV offered the idea that non-Toyota parts can make for wonky codes. Thoughts on that? The new H20 sensor was a NapaTS5520SB with a grey connector. The old one had a green connector. Of course that guy also said to put black tape over the check engine light and call it good, so grain of salt where he's concerned. Can't inspect and register in VT with codes flashing. Not inclined to wait until the last minute to solve. Also it sets my teeth on edge when the truck isn't running right. That's all I've got.
  20. Well, good to know about the quick evaporation on those chemicals. This has been a problem since December when I had work done in Oxnard. I asked the mechanic what he sprayed in there and he said, "whatever it was it won't kill you - I'm still alive." Not encouraging. I don't believe he hot-dipped anything. We did spray the EFI cover and the heat shield with silver high heat rustoleum, but I would have thought after two months that would be long gone. Because the smell was intermittent, like all of the other symptoms in this rig, the source has been hard to pin down. I have a pretty sensitive nose and consider it a good diagnostic tool - as long as I can identify the smell. The first smell that came out of the heater vent (in October) was a distinct crayon wax smell. Very nostalgic, and possibly Blue Green, but maybe Green Blue. At any rate, that smell has gone away and I found no melted crayola in the dash, sad to say. Yesterday I drove to the bustling metropolis of Belen - about an hour and a half each way with a few inclines. I ran the heater part way, and also the fan on cool. There was zero smell before, during, or after. The outside temp got up to 70 (it has been in the 20 - 40 degree range), so the engine definitely got warm. I smelled a faint bit of antifreeze as I got out of the vehicle, but no drips anywhere. I can't believe that anything I did when I took the dash apart made the smell go away. Befuddling. So until I get any more stinky clues, this thread has tapered to a close. If it aint broke, don't fix it. So I'll turn back to the computer codes 4&5 that continue to flash. But that's a different forum category...
  21. I almost got on Car Talk once with a Plymouth Colt Vista problem... But I'm definitely stumpin' the chumps here, because it ain't coolant. I believe it is something that has been added - like brake cleaner - where it doesn't belong. I'll keep you posted the next time I get a whiff. And I'll try to be more specific about the particular notes and bouquet of the wretched stench. Maybe we could introduce scratch n sniff to the forum?
  22. Germs, by definition, have some biological source. I am quite clear that the smell is a chemical that is man-made and probably is designed to kill things itself. So, until there is Smellivision adapted to this forum, you're all going to have to believe me, it's not a germ, mold, mouse, flora or fauna, rot, or anything else that is, was once, or could be alive.
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