Guajiro79

Don’t get me wrong, brighter is better. It’s just that it looks more like a spotlight instead of a flood light. I just don’t want to get pulled over on some random night for some DOT code violation I am not aware of.

I recently swapped out my old clearance lights to LED fixtures. While they look great I am worried that they may be too bright. When driving down the road at night the lower rear red lights cast a red spot light on the ground on either side. The amber lights along the top side also shine right in line with the height of big rig cabs that pass by me. I’m worried It might be distracting to truck drivers as they pass. I am also concerned that highway patrol might have an issue with it. Any thoughts? Is there maybe something i can do to the lense to diffuse the light?

Update. Weirdest thing happened. I took off the bottom plastic cover that covers the temp dial and fuel selection knob. Fiddled around with both of them and felt something like a spring pop when turning the fuel selector. Thought I should stop before damaging anything so I put the cover back on. Tried the 12v setting cause why the heck not, and it worked! What did I learn? Sometimes you have to threaten your appliances with destruction so they can act right.

I had a similar situation. I tried plugging into shore power and got ignition. Turned out my coach battery was past its prime. Bought and installed a new one and have been good since then.

Thanks. Have been thinking of adding a propane alarm. If there is power going through it I guess it’s as good of a place as any. Any recommendations on a good Alarm?

Here it is.

Sorry, should have explained better. The picture is a screenshot from the YouTube video I mentioned.

Just saw a video on YouTube showing the inside of a 4x4 Sunrader that is for sale and I caught a glimpse of what my mystery wire may have been connected to. Still can’t tell what it is but in the picture it is sitting in the same place where my wire is coming out from. Maybe now with the help of a visual aide someone might know what it is?

Sorry, can’t post a picture right now but hopefully I can get an answer. I have a wire coming out of the wood panel just to the left of the cabinet that accesses my fresh water tank on my 88 Sunrader. The end of the wire looks similar to a female rca plug. There is some adhesive residue next to the wire so I imagine there was something there before but I don’t know what. Can’t tell if it was from the factory? Can anyone shed some light?

Dug up this old thread a while ago and couldn’t make up my mind if I should attempt the slime fix for my slow leak in one airbag. Finally took the risk and I am happy to report it had been 100% for a week now. Zero air loss and no clogged lines. Just made sure I pumped plenty of air in after squeezing in the slime. The good thing I had going for me was that it was a slow leak, around 5psi every two days. Also , the leak was at the very bottom of the airbag. I know it is not a permanent fix, but I really did t want to throw down over $500 on replacing airbags. I would rather spend that on new torsion bars, more solar, fix fridge, stereo speaker upgrade, the list never ends

Fridge is a Dometic RM 2401.

No go on the fuse fix. Unplugged the fuse and radio still worked. Also passed by the audio shop that did the work and they are out of business. I haven’t noticed any loose or disconnected wires though I don’t know if I would notice given that it looks like a rats nest under my steering column. My question now becomes, where should I start checking with the voltmeter? I am very green when it comes to electrical issues.

Hi all! Long time lurker here. Never really introduced myself but have benefited greatly from all the wonderful people on thIs forum. A little about myself. Native to Los Angeles where I still live. Grew up with two Toyota Dolphins that my father purchased when I was around 6 or 7. First one was a mini Dolphin which he then sold and purchased a 22ft Dolphin. When he lost his job and had to relocate us to Miami, we packed up and drove it cross country. Fast forward a few years and I am back in LA on my second Toyota motorhome. First one an 85 Dolphin that I couldn’t keep up with the maintenance at the time , and now my 88 Sunrader Shorty.(which I will never sell). Bought it from a very nice young couple that needed the cash for their first home. They were sad to sell it as they had been looking for this exact model for over 2 years. I assured them it would go to a good ,home which it definitely has. I was lucky enough to spot the posting on Craigslist 15 minutes after it had been posted. Sellers location was 30 minutes away. Called immediately and the owner told me his phone was already blowing up with offers. I was at his house in 20 minutes! Shook hands and the next morning met him at a bank and drove off with a huge smile on my face. 49K miles when I bought it. (60k now), auto, great condition for its age.

Thanks for the suggestions! Should have read this before going to work today. Now it’s all I will be thinking about all day. Time to fake a stomach ache.

I need a little help on trying to figure out why my 3 way Dometic runs fine on 110 and gas but not on 12 volt. This is a relatively new problem as not too long ago it was working fine. All that I know to check are the fuses and they seem to be fine. I can also tell it is not pulling power from the coach battery because when it was operational, the Controll panel would lower by one bar when I would switch the fridge to 12 v. Now, it stays at 100%. More importantly, it don’t get cold! One thing worth mentioning is that right around the time I first noticed the issue, I had taken my motorhomes to an car audio shop to switch my stereos power source from my ignition battery, to my coach battery. This shop supposedly has experience with RVs so I figured it would be fine. Might be coincidence, might not. Any ideas out there? 1988 Sunrader shorty in case that matters. Don’t remer the model Dometic but I can get that info if needed. thanks