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About jimgillaspy

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
  • Location
    Durango, Co
  1. True that Maineah. It’s a fine balance in expectation and function.
  2. So when we brought our Sunrader home last year I noticed that the passanger side front was lower than the drivers side. 1 year has passed and a new full floating rear end later, the saging came back to my attention. When I looked under the front to see about adjusting the bar, I noticed that my mechanic, that installed the new rear, had already adjusted it to just about max already. I thought about dialing down the drivers side to match...but the reason the sagging is occuring is due to weakness; I don’t feel comfortable about the front end being week in the area of stability. So, I look up torsion bars for toyotas and this is where my question lies. So I’ve found no less than 3 companies that manufacture performance upgraded torsion bars. My thinking is that I should go with a stronger bar to match the strength of the new rear end I just had installed. I’m also going to add airbags in back as well. So, If I lower the driverside to match the Passenger side I’ll have the rear end pushing around the front. If I replace the torsion bars with stock ones, the rear will still be stouter than the front, result, the rear pushes the front end around. If I go with performance bars, like from LCE or Swayaway, I run into a couple problems. 1) SAW (Sway Away) has 1983 bars, but they cost $130 more, total $329.00 pair. The spring rate from stock is a good sounding 20%-30% increase. 2) All the other bars from LCE tout a 28%- 40% increase in spring rate, but they say they’re for a 1984+ truck. All the more affordable options are for 84+ trucks. So the question beckons, are there physical differences in spline count, spline diameter, master key spline or overall leangth in the torsion bars from early 80’s to late 80’s Toyota trucks? Can they be interchanged? A second question is: has anybody replaced their torsion arms with any quality and what did that do for you in the area of handling? My seat of the pants feeling is that I would want a 20% - 30% increase in spring rate to match the rear capibilities and new found weight capabilities. Thanks for any of your thoughts.
  3. Sunrader Cab over Window

    So I just got off the phone with Advantage RV in Napa, Ca about getting some replacement windows for my 83 Toyota Sunrader. I did a search on this site, and the whole of the internet, and I don't believe I saw current info on availability or price for these buggers, so I thought I'd post up some current info. The price I was quoted was $295.00 per + tax and shipping for what is a "dark tint". I also confirmed that there is in fact two general sizes. One size is for the models that have clearance lights, the other is without. They'd like for you to take photos of your current glass, I'm assuming to confirm what you have. I plan on taking pics with a tape measure referenced. So there you have it. in case you need the full info, here is the link: https://www.adventurervnapa.com/
  4. Fair enough, it involves calling an auto shop that used a tire shop, but I might need to do that.
  5. Going down this road as we speak. The early stage photos look just like the memories that currently haunt me from last summer. I'm going with the original design look, but with better woods. Wondering if you'll make it up over the hills with some of those sweet rustic wood pieces you added.. Looks great! Question, did the roof stay bowed after your efforts?
  6. So, hey everybody. i did some searching, both here and in the internets, and I can't find any article, video or topic discussing the effective removal of tires on the welded 14" semifloating wheels that came on the early 80's toyota RVs. I have a 18' Sunrader and I'm replacing the rear end with the full floating axle. But in order to get the rv home, I bought 6 new tires to put on the old wheels. Now I 'd like to pull them off and sell them ( they're regular car tires, oops) but everyone in my town says that in order to get them off, they're likely going to mess up the inner bead in doing so..., really! I mean, there has to be a technic to removing them without damaging them? Anyone have any info, opinion or a link to a video showing the process, carefulyl or not? Thanks!