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About odysseybernard

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1991 odyssey ponderosa
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  1. 12v outlet, USB, voltmeter

    Yes, that's why the wife wanted it above the stove there. Or I guess could place the phone or computer in the cabinet above
  2. 12v outlet, USB, voltmeter

    Amazon Walmart for the Rubbermaid box
  3. Battery upgrade and isolator questions on my '78 Shorty

    So if you add a second coach battery, the combiner/isolater on Amazon would replace the isolator below, or be in addition to the isolator below?
  4. 12v outlet, USB, voltmeter

    Just installed this. Came with the 2 switches and all the wiring for a ridiculous online price (less than $20). The switches turn the red voltmeter light and the blue USB light on and off. The little plastic box was the wife's idea, hung with L brackets under the upper cabinet. Didn't have to drill holes in the cabinet. Also installed a new 24 inch 12 volt TV. Can get 17 digital stations off the roof antenna sitting in my driveway.
  5. Linda, I just put the rock auto beck arnley mc in last week. I bench bleed it before I put it in and it's working great. It did come with its own sensor but the connectors were a little off( same shape but would not fit without some trimming) so I just reused my old sensor and float and cap. Didn't notice if the reservoir size was a little different but I don't think it really matters. It was new not rebuilt, good deal for $55,. Much cheaper than OEM. I kept my old original aisin and am gonna rebuild it for kicks.
  6. Instrument Cluster Swap

  7. Instrument Cluster Swap

    The e Brake dash light WAS due to the T100 cluster. The yellow wire connector does go to the P cluster connector. I had left the red wire connected which is what made the brake light always on. Still gotta install the oil pressure gage. Trying to reach from below. New cluster with green led lights will post shortly
  8. Are you sure it's the booster? I've had the master cylinder (push rod end) back seal fail before and leak fluid between the booster and MC and look like it was the booster that was leaking.
  9. It could have just been rusty brake drums as well, but a few threads I read said a new master cylinder fixed brake lockup. Since I was going to bleed them, I didn't want to push the crude out of the 27 year old master cylinder into the brake lines, thus time for a new one anyway. Hopefully the lockup won't return; sure is dangerous.
  10. Drove the Odyssey home from storage, rear brakes locked up going about 5mph with rear tires skidding. Managed to drive home the back way very slowly without using brakes. Changed the master cylinder out and flushed all 5 bleeder valves. (Used a 10 mm 6 point socket after pb blaster to crack each bleeder first since they were pretty rusted). Fluid was dark brown. Original aisin MC I think. Drove for an hour and brakes are now normal so am cautiously optimistic. Thanks for the replies.
  11. Have a slow drip coming from the clamp region at the black tank outlet. Black tank was flushed out for winter with just some RV antifreeze remaining, which is now gone. Is there a rubber gasket at this junction that needs replaced? Clamp seem frozen, even after pb blaster.
  12. Yes, the new t100 cluster made the dash brake light stay on, just a coincidence happened at the same time the brakes were sticking. Per the info in the current electrical section thread about the cluster swap, I had to reposition the yellow wire to the P terminal to smooth out the tach needle, but I had left the red wire where it was instead of disconnecting it. Now the light is out. Soldering the two circuits in the 2nd picture gave me the ect (former airbag) light back. Going to replace the 27 year old master cylinder and bleed the brakes next.
  13. Thanks for the replies. Will try pulling the fuses. The light showed up after I did a t100 cluster swap, I'll throw the old cluster back in to see if it goes away. I did have to solder 2 circuits together to get the ect light to replace the airbag light, but they are on the other side of the cluster from the brake light circuit. Just assumed it was for real since I know the brakes were grabbing/locking. I know the ebrake cable was not releasing all the way.
  14. Thanks Linda! I passed that one by since it said 4wd, but you're correct, the numbers cross check. Have ordered and my plan is to replace the Mc and bleed the brakes. Have the RV in storage with high humidity plus recent below zero temps, lockup may be water related. Not sure if noise is from front or rear brakes, but am thinking rear since if I reach under and release the ebrake cable there is no lockup. Can't figure out why dash brake light stays on even after disconnecting both switches. Maybe alternator? But charge light is not on.