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odysseybernard

Toyota Advanced Member
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About odysseybernard

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1991 odyssey ponderosa
  • Location
    illinois

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    Male

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  1. My onan 2800 did the exact same thing. Plus had surging which was cured with a new carburetor. ( I have installed a fuel shutoff valve since, to run it dry so it doesn't gum up again.). Would start but only keep running if held start button down. Electric shop fixed with an updated VR per service notice. Part # 305-0897. SN is about spark plugs wire being too close to VR? $839 is steep, but I'm glad I had it fixed. Don't have to worry about it getting stolen, and love the convenience of starting from the inside, especially in winter. Will see if I can find the service order. Hope this helps you.
  2. Old thread but wonder what the solution was?
  3. If it's just one of the small vent or return metal lines on the tank, would it be feasible to just jbweld it?
  4. Sorry, meant to say that I Dremel the end of the duplicated key so the mount would match the blank key.
  5. He made me a regular key. Took the blank key out of the flip key, and Dremelled the blank key to match the duplicated key. Works great.
  6. Have you actually driven a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder? I drove both and decided I wanted the minor extra power and more quiet cabin of the 6 cylinder. 4 cylinder is easier to work on and cheaper to replace though, to each his own. I just enjoyed driving the 6 cylinder better.
  7. Treated surface rust and painted. Probably an overkill since it was pretty solid as rig came from calif., But fixed a few dents and painted the lower fender so it was off anyway
  8. Front crossmember looks pretty good without significant rust although I could not feel the nuts welded to the inside of the crossmember at the brackets, but the attachment bracket bolts seem solid. so I don't think this is the cause of the popping noise I sometimes hear with slow, sharp turns. Maybe it is the bump stops after all?
  9. Thanks alot for the pics, will check mine for rust. Same year as yours so I'm not optimistic. To a nonwelder it looks great! Do you need any special tools to change the control arms and ball joints other than a ball joint puller fork?
  10. Thanks, it's worth the time and trouble. _mazon has a few, at least one with the flip keys. You only use 2 of the actuators. You have to buy the momentary switch separately which is optional. VID_20200410_194724659.mp4 VID_20200410_194724659.mp4 VID_20200410_194724659.mp4 There's also a few without the flip keys Just search for power lock remote keyless. if you manually press the driver's lock down or up the passenger lock does the same
  11. Sure, if you look closely at the pics you can see how they're mounted. You must get the rods fairly parallel to properly use the connecting piece, which is held in place by 3 small Phillips screws. Not shown but I actually dremeled out a small piece of the metal so I could adequately tighten the screws. It works really well, but does take some planning and adjustments. There is a plastic cover that holds the lock knob collar down that a had to cut in 2 to access the lock rod. The horizontal rod is for the inside handle opening and just gets in the way.
  12. Power lock kit with actuators was $25 from Amazon. Just need to figure out where to mount the actuators. Also installed a momentary switch in the dash. VID_20200408_143513026.mp4
  13. Got tired of constantly trying to unlock the front cab door locks with the keys, which would stick, especially when colder outside. So I installed a remote keyless entry- power locks that came with flip keys on the fobs. Locksmith could not or would not cut the blank to match my old Toyota truck key. So I had him copy the truck key then dremeled it down to match the attachment ends. Worked out better than I thought!
  14. My 91 is cable driven. Been making noise when cold. Need to lube it or replace it I suppose
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