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KGordon

Toyota Advanced Member
  • Content Count

    57
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About KGordon

  • Rank
    Super Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Female
  • Interests
    Exploring, traditional music, cooking, museums and historic sites

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    '87 Mini-Cruiser
  • Location
    New Jersey

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  1. Confess I had mine taken off when they redid the cabover. Not a TV person. A metal patch was put on the outside, and the interior hole is neatly covered by the smoke detector.
  2. Travelling in our ‘87 Mini-Cruiser last summer. Stopped at propane dealer and they couldn’t get the propane to start flowing. Took it to an RV place and a propane dealer in a larger town. Same problem. Brought it home to my local Ace hardware, which had done the previous fill. No luck. Made an appointment with an RV repair place. Their guy said let me try filling before doing anything else. BINGO! She filled right up. Turns out the bleed valve on some of the older propane tanks has to be open 100% before the safety pin in the fill port will move out of the way and let the propane flow. So posting this in case anyone else has this problem.
  3. WME - my bad, amps. And to quote Descartes “I’m sorry I wrote such a long letter, I didn’t have time to write a short one”
  4. Linda - thanks, that sounds like the problem. Couldn’t remember the terminology I needed. Still learning the lingo, especially when it comes to the electrical systems.
  5. We’re on the road. First night boondocked without issue. Second night parked at an Ohio Tpk rest stop (very civilized) and plugged in. No problems - except I didn’t realize till next AM that the socket was dead (know to check every time now). When we made a pit stop for gas at a place where the restrooms were beyond skuzzy we decided to use our own facilities. Went into camper to find electrical system on the fritz. No power to lights, Maxxfans which had been running or even CO detector. Turned everything off and did a battery reading 2 amps. Checked 12 amp fuses which all seemed good - but power came back over 3 amps. Detector came back, was able to power pump long enough to flush toilet. When I went to start it took 4 or 5 tried to start it and have all the dashboard warning lights clear. When we got to the campground battery was still at 6 amps. Plugged in for the night and had no issues, battery back to 12 amps this morning and truck started fine. So, what’s going on - short, new converter or ???
  6. Oh, I also love my ratcheting screwdriver with lots of bits including square ones that fit most of the screws in my RV and the socket fits over the screws with a nut-type head (forget what they are called). Prefer a hand tool to power cause the screws are all cheap aluminum which is stupidly easy to strip.
  7. Butane lighter stick for stove and hot water heater safety flares or triangles and high visibility vests waste tank treatment. I like Happy Camper, but there are other options plastic dollar store baskets that fit in overhead compartments to organize stuff and keep it from flying out when you open the hatches. I also like packing envelopes and cubes to organize clothing etc patience, a sense of humor and a willingness to go with the flow. - these are vintage machines after all
  8. Just wanted to thank everyone for this great info. I just treated Mosey and she looks like a new rig. Wish I could drop 30 years that easily!
  9. Sounds like what my dear old Dad would have called “cheap first dollar insurance”, and good advice! edited to add so good, I’ve taken it! Thanks!
  10. Thanks for your replies. I’m hoping it’s rubber. I’ve got to get the carpet out of the bath, it’s vile.
  11. I want to remove my quite new Thetford Aqua-Magic hi-rise toilet in order to pull the carpet out of the bath (yuck) and replace it with sheet vinyl. If I do that, should I replace the closet flange seal or can I just bolt the toilet back in (possibly waiting for slightly warmer weather to soften the seal). Also, can I run the flooring under the toilet? The installation instructions say to cut away carpet and mount the toilet on the bare floor.
  12. The more I look at what folks have done, the more I like the idea of snaps mounted on the top edge of the cabover shelf. Easy, tidy, and out of the way if you want to flip the cutout open.
  13. I still have the track on the ceiling for the cab over privacy curtains (and the curtains as well, but I don’t like them) and I’ve found sources for RV curtain hardware. However, I don’t want the curtain to go from floor to ceiling, since when I’m in the coach I want to close off the cab for privacy but leave the cab over open for ventilation. The solutions I have collected so far: 1) bungee cord, 2) snaps, 3) Velcro, 4) curtain rod mounted at the height of the cushions, and 5) nothing, just tuck it under the cushions. I currently do #5, but am leaning towards #3 mounting the snaps on the top edge of the partition where they will be out of sight.
  14. I like the idea of the bungee cord!
  15. I’m interested in making a new curtain to separate the cab and coach so that the cab AC can cool us when we’re driving and for privacy when camping. The original is long gone, so I looking for pictures and information on how they are attached . Last summer I just hung a length of polartech across the opening and anchored it by stuffing it under the cabover cushions. It worked, but wasn’t perfect. I’m toying (?) with several options, but am interested in how others have done this. That curtain seems to be missing in all of the eye candy rehab photos I’ve looked at, except for one rig where the cabover privacy curtain came to the floor.
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