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About Boundfornowhere

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  • Interests
    Hiking, Climbing, Surfing, Fishing

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1985 Toyota Sunrader 4x4
  • Location
    Traveling North America

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  1. I think it probably could do the trick. If we would have found this sooner, probably would have got some. We got the fender on yesterday and are just about ready to rock and roll (I hope). 🤞
  2. Thanks for all the advice everyone. We got it back together and painted it and I think it turned out really well. Luckily the paint we are using (raptor liner) helps disguise a lot too. We're going to put it back on the body today (weather permitting). A before and after. So since it was in two pieces we mounted it up to the body, making sure the holes that remained lined up properly. Then we put in rivets (but didn't actually install them, just used them as pegs) to hold it in place. We also taped them for added security. We then fiberglassed the pieces together at the shortest gap and let it cure. Shortest gap is the left part here. Then we took it off the body and got to work with the rest of the missing area. We used this silver duct work tape that we discovered by accident can peel off pretty easily from fiberglass. Sometimes it sticks a small amount but it's easy to scrape or sand off. After getting the front finished up, we moved on to the back side. Once all that was cured, it got sanded down. We wiped it down and did some surface fairing to fill in pinholes. Then sanded again, and wiped it down. Then all that was left was to paint it and drill a few new holes. The result of the paint was back at the top of this post. We'll get back to our regularly scheduled programming soon since we're done now, or at least we were till all this. Thanks again everyone!
  3. The gasket is long gone unfortunately. When we took off our fenders to paint the body they were in rough shape and we decided not to put them back on.
  4. While we're waiting to hear from potential options we're actually attempting to do that. Do you have any recommendations on how you would approach reconnecting them? There's a gap that needs to be bridged that's small on one side, but about 5" on the other.
  5. By any chance does anyone have a rear fender flare for a Sunrader. Ours is a 1985 (not sure if there are differences). We had a the wheel fly off on the highway and it left our fender in two pieces. As far as the cause, we aren't 100% sure. We got it back from the shop the day before where they had done the FROR Full Float conversion. Right now, the shop suspects that the lug nuts weren't seated properly (or weren't tightened). Either way, we need a fender. If anyone has one that they'd be willing to sell to us, that would be fantastic. Thank you! Sad day for us. We were officially leaving to live on the road. Obviously, we're going to have put that on hold.
  6. LOTS of updates I need to put up here. Just been really busy during the home stretch! We just finished up the whole thing minus the full float axle conversion. It's been a nightmare 😑Hoping to figure out that stuff soon so we can get fully on the road.
  7. Amelia's starting to look good on the outside, but the inside needs some love too. Up next for us was the ceiling. The first part we decided to tackle was the weird bit in the back. It's kind of a rounded step and was previously covered in carpet which makes sense since carpet is flexible enough to follow the curves of the roof. Unfortunately, carpet isn't a part of our design plan so we needed to figure something else out. We started by adding some supports, then insulated, and covered it with cork underlayment. The cork is flexible enough to follow the curves and will compliment our floors, which will also be cork. All covered up! Now the fun part starts! We added a few degrees of difficulty to our ceiling installation by having exposed "rafters". You might have noticed them in some of the pictures. They are dark planks that we are using for additional support for the upper cabinets. Because of the rafters we needed to divide our ceiling into five separate pieces! We're also adding in recessed LED lights in ceiling so we needed to add holes for those AND the holes for the roof vents. The extra fun part (at least for me) was that with the lights going into the ceiling, I got to do some electrical work (my favorite part of the whole process!). Hole for vents Good fit! Holes for lights. Fresh paint. In the right image they are lined up in order, left is the rear and right is the front. Wiring lights together with some 3 way connectors. Later I found some better ones for this scenario. With the ones pictured I needed to cover the centers because they weren't insulated and I didn't want to risk the positive and negatives touching and shorting the lights. Insulation going in! First panel in. Panel 2. We did the panels with lights first so we could get the wiring squared away. This was a huge step for us mentally. Things had been dragging for a while and to see some progress like this gave us a huge boost. As previously mentioned some electrical stuff had to be done to get these lights installed. We ran all the wires for the lights, fans, solar, USBs during this time so that they could be behind the walls. The inverter, fridge, and water pump we will run through the bench seats. For wiring we laid in some halves of PVC to help keep wires organized and protected. We also used LOTS of zip ties. Epoxy curing Epoxy cured and wires in place Unfortunately I bought some of the unruly 10AWG wire from Home Depot for the solar and I regretted it during this part of the process. It hates making turns and the coating on it is a pain. In the end it's fine, it just drove me crazy during this bit. Testing lights and dimmer switches (it worked)! More information on all these processes and more over here: http://www.boundfornowhere.com/blog/2018/build-out-week-13
  8. I just rewired it straight to the battery (4AWG). I've got fuses for the inverter and on both sides of the CT so I should be good there. As for the CT problems... Let's pretend I never had issues. I realized I was being dumb. I was looking at my battery monitor and I don't have anything hooked up to the second port of the shunt. That would be why it wasn't reading anything for the "starter" battery. You can change the label of that to whatever you hook it up to. The CT unfortunately doesn't have an app like everything else seemingly does so I guess I just have to trust that it's working. It's hard to really know right now since the battery is always at 100%.
  9. House batteries are not going to aid the starter at all for actual starting. The ACR is bi-directional so it opens the relay whenever it senses "charging voltage" from one side. The problem is that right now it's reading the starter's voltage at 0.03V even when the car is running so it will never open the relay for the alternator to charge the house batteries. I ran the line for the ACR to a terminal that was used in the stock set up to charge the house battery thinking that would work fine. Don't really know where it goes, just sort of blindly trusted it and that obviously wasn't the best move. It won't work because of the "smart" technology in the ACR. I think I'm just going to need to run the line from the ACR, straight to the positive of the starter battery so it can start reading proper voltage.
  10. I got the CT installed and I ran the positive to where the positive went to before. I don't think it's going to work though because it's reading the starting battery voltage at 0.03V. I'm thinking I just need to run the positive straight to the battery terminal. Do you have any experience with this stuff?
  11. Yeah those batteries aren't messing around! Got the CT today so I'll have that in soon and I'll let you know how it works!
  12. We have 2 12V 125Ah Stark Power Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries. They have internal BMS and also come with an app so we can monitor their status from there as well. https://starkpower.com/product/12-volt-125ah-battery There is absolutely no 110V except the plugs from the inverter right now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007KDDSXQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The charger I was thinking of wiring into the shore power is one that we already have and love. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LX14Z2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. Ohhhhh. I'd go out and see for you but the singles are already on!
  14. So long story short, I ordered the CT and ended up with the Charge because they were out of CTs. I talked to Victron and they told me I really should be using the CT. So now I'm waiting in the mail for the CT (it's taking a while because they had a rough time with all the snow I guess in the Northeast lately). In the pictures I was using the charge to mock everything up and cut wires since they are the same size. The Charge is uni directional and the CT is bidirectional.
  15. Perhaps it's an illusion? We have fairly good clearance by Sunrader standards. We got it with 225/75/15s and that's what's in this picture. We JUST got some new wheels and tires though for the full float conversion The new ones are 255/70/15s. I tried not to get too much bigger than the stock diameter but also wanted to get something wider since we're reducing to a single wheel in the back.