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AtlantaCamper

Toyota Advanced Member
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About AtlantaCamper

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1988 Sunrader on a 1987 Toyota 22re EFI
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA

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  1. The link Linda sent for the "Torsion Bar Set – 84-95 Toyota Pickup 2WD" is what I bought and I'm very pleased with them. $222.88 shipped. The website will say 'backordered' but if you call on the phone they will manually check the warehouse and likely find a pair. The lady on the phone said that the online database isn't linked to the actual reality in the warehouse. I received mine in less than a week. They were pretty easy to put in.
  2. I use the same exact house battery. I keep the receipt taped to the battery itself. If I ever do have a problem then a Walmart is sure to be close by for easy exchange if I'm on the road. This is a key reason I use this battery. The performance has been good so far. The first one I had was worn out after two years and I got a free exchange at that time. I replaced that one with new after 4 years and this new one has been doing well 2.5 years later. So over 8.5 years I only had to buy two batteries. Cost effective, functional, easy replacement on the road. The ~90 amp hour capacity is moderate, but it's been fine for my purposes.
  3. I hope it has all worked out well for you. Hopefully after the break-in period (not long, mine settled in <40 miles) you will be sitting at a good ride height that keeps your fridge level enough while driving but also let's you put a little air in the air bags too.
  4. I have not found a simple voltage reading to be a reliable way to determine the state of charge. In my experience this chart is only relevant if the battery is at a state of equilibrium, which of course it never is when you want to measure it. The chart works fine if you always let the battery sit for an hour or so before reading though... If you charge and then immediately measure, it's an artificially high reading. If you have a heavy draw and then read, it's artificially low. It's a fine way to get a really general estimate but I prefer the current reading via shunt battery monitor as it is really accurate regardless of draw or equilibrium. Only issue with these is that you have to calibrate and reset the 'full' reading periodically.
  5. Is there a relatively simple way to bypass the valve and find out how it does if you go equal and full force to the front and rears? It might be as simple as installing a barrel connector instead of the valve? Then you can find out what kind of grab you get in front and back but still be able to easily return to stock if it give unexpected results. I still have the LSPV but it's wired to go 'full to back'. I get decent balance between front and back which I monitor by checking brake/hub temps after using the brakes hard. I get nice even temps all around.
  6. Where are you located? I don't suppose you are any where near Georgia? Cause this one is available: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/d/lithia-springs-1987-toyota-rv-parting/6984285844.html You can find a decent used 4.1 3rd member pretty easily if your axle doesn't come with one. This is the one available at that link above and will give you an idea of all of the "extras" that ideally would come with a used axle (this one has the drive shaft available too and I'm pretty sure it's a 4.1):
  7. I did not. I had replaced my brake hoses a while back and I may not have stock ones any longer so YMMV.
  8. An update on the installation of those replacement cargo box clips, uh, I mean Jeep hood latches... The new replacements are not exactly the same size. As far as I can tell all of the available ones are this same size. The new ones are about a quarter inch longer in terms of clamping distance: The mounting holes all exactly lined up, which was nice. My original blind rivets used to install them were 1/4" rivets. This is a large size rivet and it takes a 'heavy duty' rivet gun to install them. If you have a standard size rivet gun (far and away the more common) then you will have to upgrade rivet guns to install 1/4" rivets or use nuts and bolts. I had to stick with blind rivets because I can't easily get to the back side of the fiberglass to put a nut on a bolt. In my case the height/length of the new clamps was an issue because the latches were already a tad loose and a direct replacement would have left the box rattling back and forth. On this picture you can see that this actually created a problem over time because the box was moving back and forth slightly and rubbing fiberglass on fiberglass (box to body). This resulted in the worn spot you can see just above the rubber bumper I installed to correct the issue: I bought some inexpensive "truck trailer rubber bumpers" and sanded them off a tad and bolted them to the box so that they would hold the box about half an inch from the fiberglass body. This solved not only the box to body rubbing problem but also forced the hood latches to stretch a bit and this provides a much stronger 'hold': This is what my red-neck engineering looks like all installed and clipped. Note the worn part on the body corresponding to where the box was rubbing. Maybe my cargo box was just installed incorrectly/poorly? Anyway, the latch-hold power is much stronger than before and I'm happy enough with the result because any movement will be absorbed by the rubber bumpers. Hopefully if you need to do this latch-swap task this post will help you plan accordingly.
  9. An excellent point. If you run with one tire on a rear axle then you are going to be asking a more of that tire than it's designed for. This idea of 'to carry a spare or not' is a matter of how much risk you are willing to accept. It's ok to exceed the specifications on a tire for a short run, but be aware of when you are pushing the envelope. Go slow and carefully for a reasonable distance and you will be fine. If you push it and over-burden a single on the rear then you can end up stuck with a problem. I tend to be on the more conservative side of things when it comes to risk of being stranded. I have not only a spare tire, but a spare of pretty much everything that I have determined to be a critical liability. One day on a back road I had the fuel pump fail and I would have been in some real trouble except, by sheer dumb luck, a fellow took pity on me and drove me a long ways back and forth to a part store so I could buy the tools and parts I needed to get going again. If he had not come along I would have been in trouble for who knows how long. It takes one bad experience to change your viewpoint. I like to be self-sufficient, even it it means a little extra weight since I do like to take dirt roads and get out there where nobody would know where I am... So, I'll keep my spare on board.
  10. Would you go to the 65 psi max rating for the tire if you ran as a single or would you go higher to like 70 psi while driving to a place to get a new tire?
  11. With dual tires on the back it is certainly possible to manage without a spare. You have to be willing to carry the proper jack(s), tools and air compressor needed to swap or remove a tire should something go wrong. One consideration about the risk of leaving the spare behind in your case would include the quality and age of the tires and how carefully you maintain them. When I first got my rig it had seven different tires on it with different age and tread wear. I would swap out with a new one as they went down. And they did go down - like three times I had to change a tire on the side of the road. I had enough of that and now I have seven new tires that I monitor carefully and take care of. While I do have a spare (it's tucked up underneath - out of sight out of mind I suppose) I have enough confidence in my tires now that I could manage without one. Like Linda said, with the same rim on front and back you can drive on one tire in the back to get to a shop where you can get another one should a tire go down. I'd guess that you might put higher air pressure on the rear tire that is running as a single if you had to drive this way to a tire shop. You can generally catch a problem before it gets serious. Pressure monitoring will help there, but one of the most common tire failure causes on these light truck tires is from a tire getting 'out of round' or developing a bulge from delamination. You can feel this by simply being aware of when a vibration starts. A tire about to go down from delamination (which can happen to old ties that sit for too long without moving) will be hot to the touch and have a speed dependent vibration.
  12. Is that price for just the parts? FYI, for anyone on the east coast looking right now, there is a nice complete axle upgrade available on craigs list right now (link below). These are all the parts you want: https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/pts/d/lithia-springs-1987-toyota-rv-parting/6984285844.html
  13. Old Man Emu Leaf Springs are an option. They don't list our vehicles as a "correct fit" but there are two models that do indeed fit and function well. There are two options with the difference being the total 'lift', CS010R and CS009R. The CS010R springs will get more lift than the CS009R model. These springs were designed to lift a truck with regular loading about 2" and so with our heavy load then end up being close to stock height. The CS009R springs have one less leaf (6-leaf like the OEM springs) and will be about 3/4" to 1" lower, but are otherwise identical to the 7-leaf CS010R. Cost is ~$230 to $250 for two springs plus you have to buy bushings (I suggest a poly set rather than rubber). The safe option is to buy the CS010R's and install and check height (it will settle about another 1/2" after break in). If it's too high then remove the extra leaf and check again. Remember that you can also adjust front height a little with the torsion bars to match where your rear ends up. I'm assuming you have a 21' rig like mine and thus similar weight. I started with the CS010R's but ended up removing a leaf. But I have air bags to compensate and fine tune ride height so it's hard to say what would work best for you. Here is an overly long thread with way more than you wanted to know about leaf springs and ride height:
  14. As mentioned, unless you are able to find a custom 4x4 Chinook or modified Sunrader it's unlikely that you would be happy with a stock ToyHome (or 'YoterHome') on back roads. The stock Toyota Chinook is on a pretty wimpy truck, but you may get lucky and find someone who is selling a modified one on craigslist or similar. I've got a stock 21' Sunrader and the 1-ton suspension with 6-lug dual wheel rears is pretty darn sturdy. I have worked to get the highest ground clearance possible without major modifications and it's still pretty low. And heavy (though you could likely due with a lighter/shorter model). And its only rear wheel drive. Despite all of that I have no problem taking a forest service road or similar. I've run into problems a few times but it's been able to get through stuff that surprises folks. Still, I've had to turn back due to steep hills and deep ruts - stuff any 4x4 would have no problem with.
  15. Attached is a procedure for the headgasket. Perhaps it can be helpful to you. I had originally planned to do just my headgasket but I ended up doing the HG plus a new head, timing chain, and entire front end kit (water/oil pumps/cover). It's much easier and cost effective to take care of any of that stuff if it's needed while you are doing the HG. Linda has a point about getting a quality gasket and related parts like the head bolts. It's a long and involved procedure and you don't want to have to do it twice. HG edited procedure.pdf
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