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AtlantaCamper

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About AtlantaCamper

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1988 Sunrader on a 1987 Toyota 22re EFI
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA

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  1. I did exactly this process per suggestions from this forum and I ended up with 55 in the rears and 50 in the fronts. This is measuring cold. I have also noticed pressure increasing after driving for a while but I see only about 10 psi increase. I found that at 65 psi (cold) the ride was noticeably rougher. I have a horizontal 5 gallon tank and I typically get 3.5 to 4 gallons into it if the gauge goes down to 1/4. The gauges on these tanks are not super accurate and the pressure to volume change is non-linear - which shows on the gauge itself as the needle swing is not the same for 1/4 to 1/2 as it is for 3/4 to full. Maybe the gauge is just off? Maybe it's more than 1/4 full when the gauge says 1/4. Or maybe they are not filling it up to full pressure? I forget if the "full" pressure is determined by a gauge/valve on the tank itself or on the fill hose. Others with more actual propane tank knowledge will probably have a better idea of what's going on than me. If you really want to know your capacity you can do a few rough measurements and a calculation to estimate gallon capacity.
  2. This is my fishing rod holder. Cheap 4 rod horizontal rack mounted above rear window. Not great, but it works for kids poles and take-apart poles.
  3. That seems like a pretty accurate statement from my experience. My previous camper was a 1965 VW bus with a camper interior and it could only go about 60 before you hit the white knuckles. I drove that VW for over 20 years until I graduated to the current rig. So you can understand that when I first got the Yoterhome up to 70 I was amazed at how stable it was and how _amazingly_ fast I was going! Now that a few years have past with the RV I, like Fred, am yearning for something like a Cummins 2.8 turbo diesel...
  4. These are all excellent points. Leveling is essential for these units. About +/- 2 degrees I'm told is where you need to be. I've been lazy and parked for a hike or whatever and found the fridge warmed up. It recovers ok but takes some time to catch up. It is a tedious aspect of these units for sure but no way around it. I put the Ride-rite air bag controller/pump in my rig and I use it a lot to get the rig level enough each time I park. I took some time and carefully mounted some Hopkins 08525 graduated level indicators because I got tired of trying to find the right spot for the bubble indicator (yes, bottom of fridge is not all that flat so it's not a good place to monitor from). A temperature monitor is a great idea. That will give me a much better idea of how things are working. Using an ice mass in the fridge is another good tip. It's like a cold buffer. I'll try this out. I keep two plastic bins in the lower section of the fridge and keep most food in these hard top containers. At mealtime I open the door and take both containers out and close the door. I sort though them and get what I need and then put the two bins back in one swift move. I think this helps minimize the time the door spends open. I also use a fan mounted to the top fins to move air through the back. I have it going through a temperature switch so it only goes on when the back fin area is above about 90F. The solar fan is a good idea too! I'm going to throw out one other thing to be aware of, although hopefully nobody will ever experience it first hand: the dreaded ammonia smell. If you open your fridge and smell ammonia then you need to address it. Almost certainly this means you have a leak in the inside coils. It's harder to notice from the outside but if you detect a faint ammonia smell you should take it seriously. I was fortunate enough to have this wonderful experience and this meant that my cooling section had to be replaced. I bought the "Amish built" refurb unit you can find on ebay for my Dometic RM2401 and it was $415 after I sent back the core. Install was pretty straight forward and quality and customer service is excellent. The replacement works great and I have had zero issues with it. I recommend this refub option as it's a lot less than a new fridge.
  5. Very useful numbers, thanks WME! 3 days per gallon of propane at 100F is really quite good I think and this is pretty much worst case scenario.
  6. Are you asking about gas as in gasoline or gas as in propane? It takes very little propane to run the fridge. It takes uses a small flame to generate the heat it needs to work. Using the Honda generator is very inefficient as it would take a lot of gasoline to generate the small amount of electricity needed to run the 115VAC heater. You can get about 2 to 3 days (I'm told by a fiend) running the fridge on a battery if that's the only thing it's doing. Also very inefficient. Propane is the way to go on the fridge. Sounds like you got it fired up! Great! It is really hard to see the flame in that stupid prisim indicator thingy. I have to squint and block out all the light and I still wonder if I'm really seeing the flame or not. Just something one has to deal with. Yes, it takes a very long time to get cold. You will know it's working if you open the back hatch and feel the hot burner area where it's boiling the ammonia and then you will feel the cold on the fins inside. I start mine up the day before I leave. I leave it on propane while driving though others turn it to 12v. I had issues with the flame blowing out while driving but proper adjusting of all of the baffles and it hasn't gone out since while driving. These RV fridges work by boiling ammonia with a heater (propane, 12v or electric), then the ammonia gas absorbs heat when it goes through the system and eventually condenses back into liquid ammonia. Then it boils again and round and round it goes. To work efficiently you have to get rid of the heat from the fins on the very top of the back panel . Make sure air flow isn't blocked in the rear. I have gone to a system myself where I use the fridge in parallel with a small Yeti-clone cooler. I put drinks and ice (like ~5 to 6 pounds per day usage) in the cooler and other stuff in the fridge. If you put warm stuff (like room temp beer) in the fridge it takes a LONG time to cool them down and robs the fridge of most of it's cooling power. ONly cold things should go in the fridge and limit the time the door is open. An ammonia fridge can get cold, but it' just can't move a large volume of heat. If you work with these limitations you will enjoy it.
  7. One thing to check is to make sure the line is fully purged. Light the stove and make sure a burner stays fully lit. Then turn that off and go back to trying the fridge again. I have to hold down the pilot button and then click the igniter and keep holding the pilot button/valve open while looking through the tiny window to make sure the flame is on. After like 30 to 45 seconds i can let go of the pilot push button/valve and then the pilot will stay lit. If it let it go too soon it won't stay lit. Sometimes I have to light it several times to get it to stay lit, all the while holding the pilot valve button in. Usually in these things the flame has to heat up a thermocouple that makes the pilot valve stay open, plus further purging might be needed in this initial lighting process. If this doesn't work then you might need to get into the guts of the burner and make sure it's all clean and the themocouple is in the pilot flame. You are getting something to light (it just goes out) so it sounds like the igniter is working and there is some gas there. These are good signs.
  8. When you leave your foot off the accelerator pedal when going downhill a vacuum is created in the intake manifold. The drivetrain spins and the vacuum in the intake created by the cylinders/valves creates the braking effect. It doesn't hurt the engine and takes some of the load off the brakes. It works best if you shift manually, typically into second (or first on really steep parts). RPM/speed is the same as going uphill so max ~25 in 1st and ~45 in second. Both Moccasin Creek State Park and Tallulah Gorge State Park are fantastic spots. These are Georgia State parks inside the National Forest so you can make a camping site reservations at both state parks here: https://gastateparks.org
  9. I've taken my 21 foot 1987 Sunrader with a 22re and auto trans up and down the hills of N Georgia - typically right along the Appalachian Trail. Yes, you can do it and you have already had some good advice about how to do so. The climb is not long, but near the top at a few places it does get pretty steep for a short bit. It's not uncommon for me to be in 1st gear doing about 24 mph right at the top. Second gear is my typical climbing gear on those roads. I manually shift through the hills. They are mostly two lane roads with the occasional passing lane. I generally end up getting up to about 210F on trans fluid temp at the top, which isn't that bad. I put a trans fluid gauge in specifically so I could monitor temps on these hills. That's the most common location to take my rig and I've been doing it quite a bit. For a little while I was concerned that I was heating the trans fluid too much but I don't think that's the case. Hot, yes, but not too hot. Without a temp gauge I'd just stop at the top and put a hand on the trans to make sure it wasn't too hot. BTW, I pulled my trans fluid pan the other day to check/change the filter and have a look. Pretty sure the original factory gasket was still on there. At 87k miles everything was perfectly clean, no indications of overheating, no metal bits in the pan except for a small amount of black metallic 'paste' stuck to the magnets. The filter was completely clean, but I changed it anyway. Brakes are another thing to be aware of of course. Make sure they are working decently. The first time I came down the other side of the hill I experienced some 'brake fade' and that was a little disconcerting. I often use engine braking on the way down now. I've re-done my brakes and now I have no problems coming down. Fortunately the hills in these here parts are not very high so even if you have some minor issue the overall climb/decent time is short. FYI, there are quite a few WMA (Wildlife Management Areas) and Federal campgrounds in the Chattahoochee National Forest that are really fantastic - but these are first come first served and don't have reservations. Many are boondocking type places. We always manage to find one open though. Here is a snapshot of a map of places we visit in the NE corner of Groegia in the Chattahoochee National Forest, PM me your email and I could send you a link to the Google Map if you are interested:
  10. Your comments and questions make it pretty clear that you understand the limitations and issues involved here. There is no great solution, and you listed the basic options for dealing with it. Personally, I choose option "A": High RPM's are not a problem. These engines have no problem running in the 3000's (although I'm speaking of the 4 cylinder, not the 6 but I assume that 6 is also just fine up to 4000 with no problem). I run about 3600 and 62 MPH as normal in 3rd gear. I rarely turn the OD on. Yea, it's loud, but I've got power, MPG is fine and I don't worry about overheating the tranny fluid due to torque converter slippage in OD. Running 65 in 3rd is not unreasonable, you just have to get used to the sound and feel. Then you use OD in the rare circumstances where it can keep speed. Given that you have a lock-up OD gear you may benefit from a gear change in the rear. (mine is a 4 banger so I don't have lockup in OD). If you put a 4.88 or 4.56 in the rear then you are going to be able to use OD at higher RPMs on the highway and this may help the OD work better and let you get up those minor hills without so much trouble. The downside to me is that with the 4.88 the top speed in 3rd gear is limited. I've been watching for a used 4.88 to show up locally for a decent price so I can try this gear instead of my 4.1 diff, but haven't found one yet. There are various gear calculators out there that will help you figure out what the RPM would be in which gear. I think you can read the VIN tag and decoding it will tell you what the stock diff gear is in your rig (odds are it's 4.1). You can always go back to your 4.1 if you don't like the results with the different diff. I found the addition of an aftermarket tach to be time and money well spent. It's really useful to be to be able to monitor the RPMs even with an automatic. Changing to a manual transmission is another option, but that's too much work IMHO.
  11. If your torsion bars are working properly and not worn out then you can crank them up to get a bit of lift. One of my torsion arms was worn out and I had to replace them both. The amount of lift you can get will be limited by the bumpers and the amount of control arm travel you want. You start running into problems with anything over about 0.75" above stock height (see FSM for how to measure reference front end ride height). You also run into limitations with alignment, although with a '92 you may have the cam type adjustment instead of the shims that I have on my IFS '87 front end. On my rig the ability to align while maintaining decent control arm travel was enough of an issue that I went with a ball joint spacer to compensate. See this post about how I used a ball joint spacer to get 1" of front lift: This is the same kind of set up I'm using (Ride-Rites, not AirLift, but same functionality) and I'm running about 35 PSI in each bag and I can change it on the fly to compensate for changing road conditions and to level the rig.
  12. I did determine that the "input frequency adjustment" will change the max speed that the cruise control will maintain. Before adjustment (likely factory setting) the max was 59 mph, now I can change the frequency to allow for faster speeds in cruise control I had to adjust it about a quarter of a turn towards the "B" label to get it to go up to about 68 mph as the max speed in CC. Moving towards "A" reduces the max speed allowed. I did not make any changes to 'centering' or 'sensitivity' as the system seems to be functioning fine for the moment.
  13. I have that same model of Honda generator. This newer EU2200i has a little more output than the older EU2000i. It will not start my Carrier 13.5kbtu AC unit by itself but with the Micro-Air easy start add-on I'm able to start and run the AC unit. There is a little more discussion on this topic here:
  14. This is a good point. I have only tested at 1000 ft at 90 degrees F. It is certainly possible that I will not have as much success with the 13.5kbtu AC + micro-air starter + Honda 2000i combo under more challenging temperature and/or elevation conditions. I should also note that I have the newest EU2200i not the EU2000i generator.
  15. I did consider the mini-split option. It's hard to find room for the install and they are not intended for 'road use' -- and I'm not willing to be the tester for such things. The efficiency of these mini-splits is so much higher than the older technology found in the roof top AC systems that I almost went that route, but then backed off to go the micro-air soft start route with a traditional roof top unit. It's really a shame that the manufacturers have not been able to do the R&D required to create an improved generation of rooftop AC systems based on the proven mini-split technology. Apparently the RV's are too small of a market to justify the risk/expense. The best they have come up with is the better quality low profile units out there now, but they do not have the improved efficiency of the new generation of mini-splits. I'm happy enough now being able to run a traditional roof top AC with the smallest Honda generator via the micro-air widget so I shouldn't complain. I couldn't start my 13.5k Carrier (old unit) with a hard start cap reliably either (although it would start under some conditions), which is why I splurged on the micro-air device. Glad I did. FYI, I have heard that the ability to use the micro-air is dependent on the particular AC unit so YMMV. If you can't start your 11k unit at all with the Honda and a hard start cap the micro-air may possibly not be able to do it either? They have great tech support so you can likely ask them if it should work and maybe even be able to return it if it doesn't.
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