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AtlantaCamper

Toyota Advanced Member
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About AtlantaCamper

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    Over 200 Posts!

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1988 Sunrader on a 1987 Toyota 22re EFI
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA

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  1. Well, At least I've figured out what they are and so I can replace with new. They are "Hood Clamps" often used on Jeeps. Here's some on the amazon for like $13 a pair: https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-7601-Black-Catch-Wrangler/dp/B000E3FDTG/
  2. If there was a sticker about max weight it's gone now. Hmm, yea, I don't suppose there is supposed to be a lot of weight in there. I had planned to put something heaver in there, maybe 45 pounds, so maybe I'll have to rethink that plan. If I abandon my heavier weight plan then yes, rebuilding them would work fine. Darn, I had not fully thought through the weight limitations in that box. Thanks y'all for the heads up on that issue.
  3. I have the fiberglass rear storage compartment on my Sunrader: I'm interested in replacing the original spring loaded clips with something stronger and more reliable. They are not all that springy anymore and I'm concerned that if I put something heavier in there that they could fail. These are the clips: Does anyone have any wisdom about what product I could use to replace them or a better method of attaching the box to the body? I could figure out a way to simply bolt the box to the body but then it wouldn't tilt backwards anymore. It's handy to un-clip the box and tilt it backwards to load and unload so if possible I'd like to keep that feature. One possible latch I found was this marine hatch clamp: It wouldn't be a direct replacement because the holes don't line up but the hinge on one end would allow me to mount it to the body at 90 degrees. It's marine grade and I could put a quick release pin in the locking hole to ensure that the latch wouldn't come un-done. I'd have to patch some holes to use this latch, although I have some experience (link) with that after a mis-hap with a nail gun while working one time on the interior... I realize that this rather narrow and specific request is a bit of a bandwidth abuse, but I thought I'd ask to see if anyone has addressed this issue. Oh, and in case anyone is curious, the bumper sticker on the box is from Port Townsend Washington (where my parents used this RV for many years) and it says "We're all here, because were not all there". It seems very appropriate on a Toyota Motorhome 🙂
  4. AtlantaCamper

    Generator

    Take a look at this thread below. There are instructions on how to light the fridge and how to see if it's working via the indicator: Before you try and turn on the LPG burner for the fridge, open up the back and take the metal cover off the burner section. Take a look and make sure that there are no objects obstructing the burner. Securing the cover in place is important because if it's not on there correctly the flame can get blown out while driving. Yea, it takes a while for it to get cold. Once you get it working there are tips in the thread linked above about how to get the best performance out of the fridge.
  5. If you are trying to find parts for the pickup/truck portion of your rig you need to tell them the year of the "Toyota Pickup" frame that you have - the Itasca company built an RV on top of a 'Toyota Pickup' (1-ton). Itasca only refers to the camper portion.
  6. AtlantaCamper

    Generator

    I've still got the original LPG tank, regulator, lines, connectors, etc. I know that one day I'll have to replace/restore it all but for now it's all still working so I keep it as is. My suggestion would be to first find out if you actually have leaks or other critical issues. Do you know for sure that your LPG system needs to be replaced or has leaks? Maybe it works fine now even though it's old and ugly? I'd suggest testing your system and finding out what the actual status is if you haven't already done that. I found that my system was good to go with the exception of the main tank valve. Looks nasty in spots, but no leaks. On the main valve it is sealed when fully open or fully closed, but in between it will leak. I just keep it full open or full closed as a result but I did a careful leak test and i didn't find any reason to replace the valve right now. I installed a new LPG/CO2 sniffer sensor to feel a bit more confident that I could detect a leak if I had one. I went around with a soap solution after a LPG fill and looked for any leaks too. I didn't find any - even at the main valve when it was 'full open'. So for now I feel ok about using the original LPG system but I'll keep a close eye on it and do a restoration as needed when the time comes. It would be a good bit of work to replace all of that as I have a fridge, stove, oven and furnace that run on LPG. I'm open to any comments on this strategy if I'm off-track for any reason. I'm very pleased for you that your fridge works on electricity. Hopefully you will get it going on LPG too!
  7. I ran into this problem as well. I had to unbolt the toilet, take it up and clean it out really well inside from the bottom and then I bought a new rubber seal ring (THETFORD 33239 RV Closet Flange Seal) and replaced it and between that and cleaning up the toilet really well it fixed the problem. I didn't have a wax seal on mine but the old rubber one was worn/crushed and no longer sealed properly. I have a Thetford toilet so yours may be different. One other time I had this issue it was because the black tank was over full and the seal that holds water in the toilet bowl wasn't holding water so gasses were leaking by. The toilet cleaning fixed this as I cleaned the seal at that point and it holds water fine now.
  8. As I recall the red wrap is just for shipping. Take all of that off. There are clamps that hold the springs together under the wrap; those stay on the springs. Your springs look normal and should fit fine once you put the weight on them. If they are too high after install you can take a leaf out. You only have 18' so you won't have as much weight as I did so it's possible you could end up riding a little high. They will settle down about 1/2" or so after initial install. Do you have air bags on your rig? Use good (poly) bushings if you can. Let me know if you run into any more trouble getting them or getting it to the ride height you want.
  9. It looks like you have one side installed but the other end not in the front mount point, right? It's a little hard to tell from that image. Once you install and put the weight back on it then the shackle will go straight - at least that's what it did with mine. If you unwrap the spring (do you still have the shipping wrap on there?) and let it relax and put it next to your old one you should be able to confirm that they are basically equivalent. Did you look and see if your springs were labeled with a "+" or "-" painted on the front end? That would mean "over" or "under" spec height by 1/4" for example. Often they are either not labeled at all or have the same label - which means they are a supposed to be a matched equivalent set.
  10. It's shown in the pictures in a post above: http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/11703-epdm-tape/&do=findComment&comment=109427
  11. She has a good point. The sensors have never worked in my rig and you can keep up with how much water you have used by keeping track of the volume of fresh water that you put in. I 'manually' monitor my fresh water tank by shining a flashlight into the side of the tank. I can see a corner of the tank through a door hatch under the bench seat and I can see the level of the water that way. I know from experience what the typical ratio of grey/black is and so once I've put a certain volume through the fresh water tank I know it's time to find a dump station. Upgrading to SeeLevel monitoring system is on my to-do list but pretty far down in priority because I've never really had a huge issue with keeping up with tank levels based on manual monitoring. All that being said, if your monitoring system is generally working and it's just that one sensor that busted then it's worth getting a new one. It might also be fairly easy to repair as I think those sensors are pretty crude. You may just have to figure out a way to reconnect that wire to the existing foil piece and you may be back in business. It might solder on with proper surface prep or you might be able to otherwise get a decent electrical connection between the wire and the foil and see if it's working.
  12. If you are willing to pay $1.5k to maybe $2.5k to get the axle upgraded then OK, but if that cost plus the purchase price (along with whatever else needs to be fixed) is over the top then you should pass on this one. Just to be clear: you should _not_ consider the idea of buying it and not converting the axle to the 6-lug full float.
  13. Thanks for the tip. FYI, Advance Auto has it on special (two for price of one) until 9-25-19. I'll pick some up and run it through.
  14. It is a pain to deploy the lower sleeping area every night, but with two adults and two kids it's a necessity. Look at all of that sleeping area! Full size on top, between Queen and King on the bottom. This is the basic mod - a plank attached to the back of the couch back piece with hinges. It uses a gate latch to hold it in place during storage. The plank folds out and covers that gap between the couch bed and the dinette bed. This is what it looks like in 'storage/travel' position. There is just enough room for all of those parts in the back when in "sofa" configuration. Ignore the aluminum piece at the bottom, it's not part of this. There are two 1/8" thick aluminum plates bolted to the plank that rest on the top of the dinette seats to give it stability. There are a few other minor issues/considerations so if you decide to do this for yourself let me know and I'll give you the details to be aware of. All in all crude but effective and cheap. I use this 2" memory foam on both beds: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CDWQ7P0 I had to cut it down a little for the bottom/lower bed but the king works on the bottom and the full fits perfect on the top. I leave the top/loft in 'Bed Mode' all of the time but I have to roll and stow the memory foam for the bottom each night. I have the process down like a 4- tire nascar pit stop. I'm really happy with the big bed on the bottom now compared to what I had before.
  15. Ah ha! We have the same configuration I believe. The issue I have with the sofa fold out bed is that it's too short for me at 5'11". I had to sleep with my head near the sink and feet hanging off a bit near the driver's seat headrest. With sofa folded out and dinette turned into the 'grandson bed' there is this odd gap of about 5 or 6 inches between the sofa bed and the dinette bed. So one day I decided to make it One Big Bed. I attached a plank on some hinges to the back of the folding part of the sofa and rigged it up so that it securely rests on the edge of the dinette seats. Ta-da! A (nearly) king size bed! I can sleep with feet/head window to window with enough room. I carry a rolled up 2" memory foam mattress that I roll out on top of the cushions and boy is it really comfortable! (a lot of room to store the memory foam during travel, but it's a luxury I can't give up now). The use of the short post supporting the back of the sofa folded down is critical but I assume you already have this. If this modification interests you I will go take a few pictures. It's completely transformed the sleeping in the camper for the better.
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