Brian

Realized that pic was a bit dark—better one here. You can see that left end of white/red wire is chewed off—I imagine it wouldn't be too hard to splice a new piece in. It doesn't look as if the rest of the harness is compromised, and everything seems to work except the horn, so fingers crossed! One side of the insulation of the double red wire has been nibbled, but I don't see any damage to the wire itself, so am thinking it can just be wrapped with electrical tape …

So, I was checking my '92 Warrior (battery, etc) before taking it in for new tires, when I noticed a smell like a dead animal. Sure enough, when I opened the hood, I found two nests! One on top of the engine block and the other where the harness comes in to the engine compartment (passenger side). I cleaned it all out, including 3 dehydrated mouse carcasses and the rotting remains of a large rat! on closer inspection, I discovered that Mickey Rodent had started to chew on the harness—everything seems to be working except the horn … There's a narrow red/white (white/red?) wire that has been completely chewed off—could that be for the horn? I'll have my mechanic fix it (hopefully), but if I knew what that wire was I might save some time and $$.

Okey doke! 🙃

Thanks, everybody! Linda, I looked at tires-easy—Thunderer Ranger R101 185R14C D/8PR BSW, 6 tires free shipping, $615.84. I shopped around a bit and found same tires at Giga Tires, 6 tires total $550.00 (including $106.30 shipping …) Anybody have a better deal they know about? Tuesday will check with my mechanic for installation costs.

What is the correct tire ratio for the '92 Warrior? Hankook Kinergy ST H735 is a 185/75R14, would that be appropriate? Local company quotes $653.74 inc. taxes for 6 tires and mounting, etc. Does this seem reasonable

Hi, fellow Toyotans! Haven't been on here for some time, but have always gotten great help in the past … So it looks as if I ought to replace all the tires on our Warrior (down to about 1/8" +/-) before taking a 900 mile trip in mid-August. I've been doing some research and it seems to suggest that the original tires that Toyota specified were not properly rated for the weight of the Winnebago … It currently has 185R 14 LT's—I've seen 185R 14/8 100P's and SV820 185R 14's suggested. We usually don't put more than 1500-2000 miles a year on it, and are hoping to upgrade in a year or two, so I don't think we need anything more durable than a 25000 mile tire, if that. It has been said that 8-ply tires are more suitable than 6-ply … I would really appreciate some expert guidance on this, but not from somebody who's trying to sell me some tires! 😝 We live on Bainbridge Island WA, near Seattle, with many choices of vendor. Any ideas?

Is it possible/advisable to replace with larger tanks? I imagine weight would be the prime factor, followed by dimension … mainly a consideration for boondocking, not an issue if you are on hookups, apart from need to dump frequently.

Sorry, haven't been on the forum for a long time! 🤢 They were installed by previous (original ) owner, will look to see if I can ID them … Original owner also replaced carpeting with 747 carpeting from the old Boeing Surplus facility in Seattle—easy to clean, good sound proofing and comfortable—it'll probably outlast the rig!!

We love our Micro Winnie (21ft), but … 1. We were getting tired of juggling things around when cooking, and also lack of bathroom countertop space … After failing to find a ready-made solution of the right size, and even more importantly of the right cost, I came up with the following … Two bamboo cutting boards from Ross Dress-for-less, a 36” strip of slotted steel, and two pairs of spring-loaded supports from China on eBay.I cut the boards to size, cut the steel strip to make some long washers to clamp the supports firmly from the inside of the cabinets—a little time spent designing it all, and here’s the result Total cost about $35.00 2. A visit to Fred Meyers and an outlay of less than $20 solved the problem of water bottles falling over in space between seats … 3. How many times have you cut or bruised your arm on the door catch when getting in and out of the coach? A short piece of pipe insulation took care of that!

Yep, dawned on me later that it is likely to be a ground, thanks for confirming my suspicion. Will check it out later this week (why does work always get in the way of real life? )

Well, I didn't think I'd be back so soon! The Porch light switch inside the Toy has an LED monitor light which has never worked—I looked at it last year and saw that the green wire from the LED to the switch was not connected. Today I decided to wire it up … I wonder if I did it wrong? Two purple wires coming into back of switch with connectors. One was not hooked up to switch. One green and one red wire from LED, red wire is soldered to one prong at back of switch, green wire not connected to anything, so I figured the green wire would go from the other terminal of the LED to the other prong of the switch. I connected everything up, and it works, but in reverse! When the porch light is switched ON the pilot LED goes OFF, and when the porch light is switched OFF, the pilot LED goes ON. I switched the purple wires, but still get the same result!! Is this a bad switch? Or did I connect the green wire to the wrong place? The porch light works without the LED being attached. Each prong on the switch gives me a reading of about 6 on the multimeter when connected to either the green or red terminal on the LED …

Having removed the under-stove microwave in my '92 Micro Warrior, I'd like to get a cabinet door, Part # P00099-78-B05. It seems they're not available for purchase—there is a place in Centralia WA that sells used RV parts of all kinds, but I'd prefer to find somewhere closer to Seattle, preferably on the Kitsap peninsula. Any ideas?

Well, guess what? It's all working again, except the electric water heater which is still tripping the GFCI, as it has done since the time we bought the Toy … After all that work, which was a welcome and necessary crash course in RV electrical systems and learning how to use a DVM, I finally tracked down an open ground in the bathroom receptacle. Everything was working and getting positive results on all the receptacles except that one, and that's after replacing it. I opened up the others, and noticed that the bathroom one was the only one that didn't have a ground connection—instead, the incoming and outgoing grounds were connected by a pigtail to the back of the metal box. I disconnected that one and attached it to the ground terminal on the receptacle, and now everything tests good. I hunted around in the innards behind the furnace and hot water tank, and it seems like both the microwave and the electric heater are plugged into the funny receptacle on the main circuit, whereas one might have expected them to be on a 20A circuit. I unplugged the water heater and will probably not bother to fix it … would be interesting to figure out what its problem is, but will wait for warmer weather!! One nice thing is that I can now just plug the fridge into a line from the house overnight to get it cold before a trip. Probably my old GFCI is still good, but the new one is self-testing, so that can't be bad.

On my favorite guitar website they have a saying—"Show us pictures or it doesn't exist!" WME, you're spot on, it's a P/O installed conversion, he was a licensed electrician—I guess he didn't feel like crawling around to attach the thermostat to the tank, because there it is, attached to the water pressure relief valve. Apparently it worked for him … The question I have is, the thermostat doesn't look like either the Hot Dogg or the Camco, does anybody know what brand it might be? How do I test it with a DVM (explicit beginner directions, please ) jjrbus, I plugged the fridge into the line for the house and the GFCI stayed on, will check for cooling in a few hours … Thank you both for your suggestions

Ah hah! After a few days off, I got back to the wiring problem. As suggested, I isolated the refrigerator—the power cord to the receptacle is about 2ft or so long, so I was able to cut it and install a plug and socket for ease of disconnecting (you may remember, the problem was that there is insufficient clearance between the receptacle and the 'fridge coils to get the original plug out!) I was still getting continuity between black and white wires on all receptacles except GCFI, so I cut out the next one in line, the bathroom receptacle, and re-tested remaining sockets. Now black to black and white to white show correct continuity, but none on black to white—so far so good. I disconnected the bathroom receptacle completely, ran a new length of 14-2 between the GFCI and the load wires that had been on the bathroom receptacle. Continuity still good—plugged a vacuum cleaner into GFCI, turned it on, et voilá! GFCI stays on. Yay! I then hooked up the fridge with my new connectors, and ran the vacuum again—still good! Tomorrow I will fire up the fridge to see if it actually works (can I just run that off my power from my house? It’s a Dometic 2-way 110 volt/propane model, no 12volt option). The microwave is not working—I was perplexed, because it seemed to be on a separate circuit running to the back of the converter. Behind the micro is a receptacle of a kind I’ve not seen before—instead of the wires attaching by screws, the receptacle is in two pieces. When you screw them together, copper blades cut through the isolation to make the connection. I’ve seen this on cheap lamp cords for in-line switches, but not on a 14-2 cable. My instinct is that this is hooked into the old 14-2 that’s been giving me trouble, so I guess I’ll replace it. My wife says don’t even bother, we use the microwave so seldom let’s just pull it and have extra storage! The second socket on this receptacle is home to the plug of a cord which runs through a switch next to the GFCI and then disappears into the back of the water heater compartment—the only times I’ve ever tried flipping it it would trip the GFCI … I always light the water heater pilot from the outside, so I guess I just won’t bother to plug that one back in!