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Toyota Advanced Member
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About 256bit

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    '83 Sunrader

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1983 Toyota Sunrader
  • Location
    Portland, OR
  1. So my previous owner caulked the water heater in, on the backside of the rim with the screws. He caulked it directly to the fiberglass Since it's under the rim, how do I loosen the caulk? By shoving a razor blade in there? I don't want to damage the fiberglass. I thought about coming in from behind it, inside the rv, and hitting it with something like a dead blow hammer, but there isn't enough room.
  2. Wow I got shafted. I purchased the front and rear shocks separately, it requires them to be on the same invoice. Nothing a little Photoshop can't fix.
  3. The terms and conditions for the rebate say " Submissions postmarked after May 31, 2016 will not be honored"
  4. This is what's wrong I bought the tall 84s (with each reflector being 'taller' than wider), that was my problem. I just found the horizontal 84s that you linked to a long time ago, and picked up a pair: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bargman-Reflect-O-Light-Motorhome-Triple-Tail-Light-RV-Camper-Trailer-30-84-103/322594725139?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 The ones with the vertical reflectors would require significant material to be cut. The others one should fit with only a quarter inch or so.
  5. I've searched the forum and only come up with custom fab stuff. I would go that route but I don't have the time right now. I picked up some bargman 84s but the cutout size is too large. They would require cutting a significant amount of fiberglass off the shell. I don't want to do that. Does anyone know of some tail lights that will fit and don't look terrible, even if I have to make a backplate?
  6. What's your rig and where's it at?

    What the... How did you clean it?
  7. Yeah you really need to be careful with PO info. My PO had rebuilt the head 60,000mi before I bought it, but he trashed it. Milled way too far under minimum spec, no coolant pressure for a long, long time, ran only water in the rad for at least a decade, thought replacing an exhaust stud with RTV was good enough, chowdered oil pump threads with imperial bolts nearly resulting in catastrophic engine failure when all the oil leaked out in a couple of miles.. used rtv on the oil pan gasket.. thought it was a good idea to put a double roller in by milling the drive spline for the oil pump down on the geared end.. totally fucked all of the wiring.. epoxied the front main seal into the oil pump.. I could go on forever. Don't trust a PO. It has taken us thousands of dollars to undo all of the POs mistakes. That doesn't even include the engine. We're only just now starting the process of actually RESTORING the sunrader. Take it as a cautionary tale. Be very careful when dealing with rigs this old and don't believe anything a seller says. But yeah, I'm with @WME (who is 1,000,000x more experienced than I am, for the record) on this one. If the crank hasn't been turned or replaced, the block punched over (necessitating new pistons), new rods, bearings etc at the *very least*, consider it trash. A head can always be rebuilt on the cheap, but once you get into the block dollar signs will flash before your eyes like lightning bolts. And that's before you pay anyone to remove and install the engine if you don't have the hoist, space, and know-how.
  8. I could have this totally wrong but I'm just going by what I remember from when we rewired the engine, but there's 3 connections on the starter. Two are 0-4awg wire for pos/neg on the battery, and are secured with nuts. then there's a clip connector for the switch, which gets power when you turn the key to start, which opens the circuit on the starter. If there was anything wrong with the ignition switch itself or the wiring, you would know by bypassing the switch and supplying it with power directly, using a piece of wire and a spade connector. You would want to disconnect the ignition coil to prevent it from turning over. Replacing the starter is a pain (there's one bolt that you can't really get to, need to jack it up waaaay high) so if it was me I'd want to rule that out first. But again, I could be wrong. Someone that's more knowledgeable (like @WME ) can chime in.
  9. Could be the switch is going bad. Bypass it and test it. No idea if it's the same for every year but here's the FSM diagram for my '83
  10. New 1981 Sunrader Diesel Owner

    If it was originally glass, they broke it and replaced it with their crappy DIY window.
  11. New 1981 Sunrader Diesel Owner

    I would buy that. Mine is a rear dinette and the large plexiglass window is severely warped and covered in paint.
  12. Canned Meat at Walmart.

    I'm on team "ew" with @WME here. Walmarts are depressing. For all my cheap Made in China needs I go to Amazon.
  13. It would look something like this: or this Don't know where it would be mounted. Follow the wires
  14. 3500w inverter generator

    I have had 2 HF generators. The first one didn't run. The second one ran for about 10 hours then threw it's rod. I've had other cheap behind chinese generators (like powermax), and none of those lasted longer than 20 hours.
  15. 3500w inverter generator

    Out the nose. You only get sorta-quiet when you get into the $2,000+ range. If I was in the market for a generator I would probably skip over having to replace a harbor freight one multiple times a year and just save that money for a honda or yamaha that will last forever. Still, for those with a super duper tight budget the cheaper ones (800w) can work. Just don't expect them to last longer than a few months.