Joseph

After I snuggled the head down a little on the right where I saw the leak it nearly stopped definitely head gasket leak by the push rod area torque was way loose on right side still a little tiny leak keep a eye on it but that appears to be what happened got to hot before I got it and screwed up the bolt tightness because gasket got crushed, it will go for awhile but eventually I got some work to do, brush replacement, starter, head and diode for the inverter been running it all day no issues still a bit warm but muffler is pretty rusted and area by it where air passes through is a little torn up insulating the muffler from motor, at least it's not cracked thank god

I looked up the specs on this 86 model and saw nothing indicated about points does run slightly rich but as soon as I started using it I got on top of the heat issue it really hadn't been used much in Las severalyears so sediment had collected at the bottom when I first checked oil before starting it looked clean not even twenty hours it was black, has a new carb no leaks I could find nothing inside but that that has been touched original everything has gears for timing but I've got that idle lean rich screw a half a turn out it from all the way tight it runs so rich went to a ngk plug standard helped it run smoothly heat didn't change lean or rich starter is nearly dead or timing is off somehow but if it sits in heat for long enough it doesn't have a issue starting or running just started leaking after last oil change I think it's already been overheated and someone put stop leak of some sort in it and is why it leaks I've looked all over tiny leak by head where it bolts too block but most of it is coming from the backside of crankcase or oil cover somewhere I can't see, everywhere from the front of cover everything is clean and intact and exhaust isn't buring my eyes or hand 3 inches away from end I was just hoping if it did get damaged overheating before I got it where most likely it would crack warp or leak and where? I can't check the timing without tearing it out but appears from my experience and my pdf specs timing is good or it would be surging like crazy and nothing would let it run right as far as fuel mix have the throttle screw at a a quaternary turn with 2500 watts being pulled off it runs great perfect mix not to lean or rich just this damn oil leak and a starter with wiring that was redone for another generator definitely not the original from the shit ball wiring job it had has external resister diode and charging system with a failed diode ran two 30 amp relays to a switch when it's at 50% auxiliary power I use that like the diode would work according to specs when I run for more the a hour I have it switched to a 2/10/50 amp charger so I can alternate and not overload anything using a set up of relays nothing coming off onan that goes too auxiliary or too regulator power inverter assembly. Only wires are the 3 120 ones the electronic regulator wires white one missing oddball for old onan and a white ground rated at 90 amps by gauge size for everything and one from battery for the battery to truck motor another underrated wire goes from that battery all the way to auxiliary was charging good at first then after plugging in the diode died or my brother vandalizing my box with a pressure washer unsure when I got it someone had just put in this generator and I don't think hardly ran it had 600 almost when I see it was swapped out but everything looked correctly done to specs and it puts out good ac voltage hope you might have more insight stator and armature seem a bit hot on start up nothing scolding no more then 195 degrees when I checked it on first run but second run the deck fell apart which kicked the temperature up about 20 extra degrees bUT it's been in the 90s also put some holes by the head near exit for the air to flow a bit better got way cooler haven't put more then maybe 80 hours on it since I fixed the dirty oil and deck and heat issues heat exit is where the exhaust comes out good amount of air flow now. Eerg I can't let it burn up and die it is a model with oil level switch and electronic ignitor weird thing is I haven't hardly had to put any oil in it and it let's me know if it's even a little low.

My Cummins onan 2.8 just started developing a nasty oil leak, I recently discovered it was getting very hot by the head I've got it leaned out as far as I could get it without surging new plug new oil 660 hours on it after I felt it was getting a bit hot from the backside I went through and tuneducated everything still runs to rich and stinky had nasty crap in the bottom of the crankcase so I ran it 3 times changed oil three times got it smooth and nearly clean running then got it hot changed the oil again and now oil is soaking the rag I have plugging the drain hole after it started leaking more and more I found, small leak by the head two headbolts were tight the right side two were not but I don't see the big leak leaking almost a ounce every hour oil starting to develop around head by gasket before I tinkered with anything. I was forced to add air hole locations around head area as head was just getting to hot no matter what I do since I got it using racing 40 with a little zinc it runs good now heat not so bad but right near the bottom of the motor is a leak I cannot find not drainplug, anyone know how hot these things are supposed to get and where most likely a oil leak will develop on the onan 2.8 which is used with nearly every dolphin? Small leak by head and oil coming from back near drain plug getting worse and worse everything runs great on it but I can't nail this oil leak unless I rip the generator out if these things overheat do they crack or warp or what? Please someone has to have run into this issue I did hit a pothole that may have nailed the already damaged deck with asphalt but I found no damage indicating this could have nailed my Cummins 2.8 onan starter and brushes I do know need replacement so many hours the starter is having troubles kicking the first couple strokes found small amounts of oil leaking into the cylinder might be the cause after giving thicker 40 racing oil as it is worn and has no oil filter kicks easier now finding lots of oil leaks but hardly have to fill it I'm not finding much that I have to refill with been a week soaked three rags put maybe a ounce of oil in it if that already 50 hours since last change I've looked all over only one spot I'm seeing fresh oil come out by the head near muffler how durable are these things to heat someone please help about to lose my rear end all my leaf spring bushings are mostly gone icant afford another generator or home, lost my doctor again no chance of surgery because this is my only home nothing to help with pain management and I need tons of meds to live but because I'm homeless in which racist doctor caused because he hates America I'm screwed every day is a year off my life if I tear this out I have to know what I'm looking for so I'm prepared for the worst please help just getting the conduit out means bending the coach frame support its pinched in between frame and deck no clue how I can get conduit free far enough to get the genset out I can't afford another generator 660 a month doesn't even get me plugged in for 3 weeks in Oregon.

Can't find postings on microlite onan, mine just developed a leak after changing the oil, the leak appears to be coming from the top corner of cylinder head behind exhaust, it has overheated thx too the deck falling apart put some holes in the case so that it would vent properly all around the motor didn't overheat for long. Question how easy is the onan 2.8 to crack or warp at head with so little torque on the head bolts? About a quarter ounce ever 2 hours please help.

Um not sure gonna give it a week and see but I carefully bent the entire burner and jet assembly up just a little to see if I was right next morning or really 5 hours later the inside of the fridge entirely froze still have ice in it but it is completely frozen when it would completely melt in days gonna tinker a little more I want to see that flame tip off inside that tube, before I noticed the distance was blowing the flame to the side whenever it was ventilating and it tipped off from the center as a result now its to cold wtf? I barely moved it and it freaks out and works? Tinker wait then pull all the ice out and see what happens but that appears to be this 2410s issue found a stamp on cover Rm 2412? I have not seen that model fridge anywhere but ya burner flame to far away blowing away from stack and I realized back end is bent down a ways you walk up to walk down to toilet its so far bent explains why I have the behind as high as I can get it to get level poor 400 this thing should have ended up in the grave with original owner its possessed refuses to die and screw laurelhurst distribution and ac fridge repair service still ignoring me I should not have to fix this myself a new fridge is supposed to work like a new fridge should not be macgyvering things to work. Sick of repairing what I buy knew or what a shop screws up in repairs at 150$ a hour or more for a actually certified tech. Its working who cares better then nothing. Could be worse yay!

And ya definitely right dont use zinc bad idea I destroyed my old fridge with that right at the back you could see freeze damage or something opened up the hole way wide and tore it where all the tubing goes inside the soft bubbles in the plastic tell me it was the evaporator rotting its never been level since I got it freezer always over froze and fridge would freeze my food if no o2 is present those tubes won't Rot at least on the inside but I had tears all along the evaporator everywhere didnt help it would freeze melt freeze melt think that and o2 getting in really was the killer new fridge is or was sealed in everyway except for the crack at the bottom frame in rear I'll glue who cares heating tube is massive compared to old I cannot get that flame near inside has to be it, it was cold this morning on high stack was Luke warm

Same here but it won't stay that way, 2410 extremely sensitive to its level I've found resolved heat issue and discovered burner is almost more then a quarter inch to far down from the flew tube its straight and aligned but flew is way to far away its causing the side of it to heat not centered because it sits so low nothing I can do to get a new one have to figure out a way to get the jet and burner assembly really close to that tube like it should, ugh fought with my generator for six hours just to learn it was low on oil I just changed omg no clue it had a oil level switch always read service manual number one rule for me now and I found the vent holes too it smashed into the deck farfegnugen!!!! 650 hours and its smooth as silk again I will figure out a way to fix that burner issue macgyver ain't got shit on me

OK now I'm pissed left the vent cap off all night with nothing in the fridge or freezer and it did nothing but piss water all night in low temperature outside even a fan won't fix this and a water leak inside that is rotting the deck in the back can't find the crack but its there, dometic won't cover its warranty because I can't drive out of state to see a real specialist and spend 300$ on a simple five minutes of diagnosis, stuck with a new dead fridge nothing I can do 6 months working up the money to buy a new one will probably die over this I am out of money food and everything else and hospitals are a no go here most completely shut down no food services for the poor or shelters unless your from another country illegally can't even get help from all the churches I used to go to or any others one county 300 miles away feeding us like strays as we line up to survive one more day I'm done 800$ sunk me never buy a dometic again and will never buy anything out of its plastic new for any rv will be documenting everyone everything every conversation every picture and nailing every social site on the map their faces and company warranty doesn't mean anything on these without a attorney.

Oh and the 2410 I learned from another rver is supposed to be a well built fridge after 2014 build date tubing is hardened stainless steel nearly 1/8" thick! Bigger then most all of the other for tubing thickness supposedly nearly indestructible I was shown this when the foreman for the shop stood on top of a new one they were junking a 2514 I believe just no freezer forget and jumped on the tubing with full weight it did not even budge or bend, steel instead of cardboard is used to back and insulate the evap on this model it is completely vacuum sealed now if I can just get the cover adjusted just right still I dont trust that distributor but damn that tubing is nearly indestructible on that model I was shocked not even the plastic broke and he was jumping on it he weighed 170 from my estimate I'm thinking they remodeled it after 2014 they look the same but completely different way better construction. Just quarky about needing good circulation air has to be drawn up from the heat of the condenser if not no get cold in fridge insulation is one thing I will be doing next that should help only getting fire proof stuff though with bugs and their nests dont need another fire they need super good circulation to really work right and the appropriate dometic top cover adjustable 25$ its worth it comes with a screen I'm sure thats why so many are having issues right now the heat and a crappy cover dont mix mine melted down it wasn't letting hot air out at all a Nordic cover and I did look it up Nordic makes two models that fit our dolphins with only slight cut too top of cabinet thats what I'm going for when I get enough saved up for ac more expensive but way colder units, my dometic 1000 BTUs a hour, the Nordic I looked at 2800 BTUs not sure what model it was but it only sat half a inch higher in which there is generally already a quarter inch of space at the top or bottom depending on cabinet type and it was the same width and depth something to think of if your buying a new one just dont be a dip shit like me rush things only to learn your top hat is melting into the inside no time to get a pic had to scram back for legal purposes a fight I probably won't win unless a miracle happens as if it mattered anyway my past present and future burned before my eyes no starting over again lost count. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD AMOUNT OF HEAT YOU CAN FEEL FROM THE TOP AS IF THE COVER IS OFF THIS IS A MUST AND WILL MAKE YOU THINK YOUR FRIDGE IS DEAD WHEN ITS JUST FINE LIKE MY OLD FRIDGE PROBABLY STILL WOULD HAVE WORKED IF I HAD CHECKED THAT SIMPLE ISSUE!!!! But it was beat to hell anyway two fires another person and me because of a stinkbug nest in the flew area at the top and extremely flammable aresol on a very hot exchanger burned all my facial hair off looked Indian with no eyebrows ?

Here are some pictures I think you should be able to see where my old one went wrong where the burned up hole going to the evap is, fridge is OK I learned the 2410 specifically has to have the condenser no more then 1/4" from the wall 1/8" preferable to work right have to tweak with the new vent cover not circulating properly old one melted down, mechanic says his he tossed his fan says it works just fine and it froze up in no time in the shop so heat is a issue and all the stink bug nests plugging up everything didnt help still won't sit flush but I dont care as long as it works not happy about the busted burner but I got a new one told no dometics 2410 exist anymore a million new ones on line and a dozen in their shop and its a item that no longer exists right not going there again for any reason tried to take my fridge and theirs back when it started working kinda hokey if you ask me what they pulled but if I can get the cover to circulate it should be OK although originally it did have fan wires cut for a thermostatically controlled unit and recommended mainly for this model fridge and only one more as it sits so deep, in here are some shitty pics I was cleaning out stink bug nests for hours just kept finding them all over the cabinet and originally it did have a 2410 found mounting screws in different locations further towards wall heat had me pressed for time

Just got my fridge in yesterday morning being sold as new by laurelhurst distribution in Oregon dometic 2410 was in a rush couldn't video everything in the heat I got scammed learned it had been dropped hard enough to crack the inside only after installation, it doesn't even work as good as my almost dead 2400 did everything by the letter slid in no problem didnt even bump the cabinets tubing and condensor no scuffs or scratches everything level no overheating lit right up hot stack good flame garbage fridge back to using melted ice for a ice box I'm pissed I am getting my money back keeping the fridge until I get a new one from them undamaged I'll show pics tomorrow everything is screwed right now being homeless sucks scam after scam after scam condensor is only a millimeter from back of wall it sits in the cabinet so deep dip shit set it on its back handing too me grabbed it before it got damage I thought never even josseled it even in transport tubing seems alright everything is still sealed then I learned the 2410 has the worst rating out of all the dometics 5 year warranty explaining why it had been covered in dust no plastic covering totally scammed never buy anything from this distributor all appliances they sell are unpackaged proving Damaged goods they sell as new. No clue how I'm going to fix this with no money no home dying in this heat blowing through gas on every hill horribly. This is not a overheating issue had it at 45° this afternoon freezer just barely freezing took the ice out turned it down to low as outside temperature is so hot doesn't take anything to get the stack boiling in the heat using propane. So pissed and someone slashed my back tire on the inside part of the wall no money to fix it and lost another doctor again everyone thinking I must have a drug or alcohol problem when every test proves otherwise I can't drink or do drugs I can't afford it!!! Been sober for more then twenty years!!!!

The more I have studied these smaller dometics I have found most ppl get three years to ten years out of their fridge depending on how its taken care of and used, no clue how I'm going to move all this weight around in my condition Monday getting a 2410, 3 versions of these smaller fridges and this appears to be its third one replaced by me, if the back is getting to hot it means you have mostly just vapor left and no fluid I would show you why but I can't dispose of my fridge if I bust the evaporator tubing out they won't take it, these things have no way of draining water in anyway thats what screws them in a normal fridge defrosting and drying the evaporator is done on automatic cycles as to prevent corrosion and freeze damage in these nothing, as soon as you park it and stop using the fridge water starts destroying the evaporator tubing which could be one or three different ones depending on model because the condensation has nowhere to go, their fix for this is to seal the entire guts of the thing and put it in a vacuum so that oxygen can't rot the tubing with water all around it, there can be no tears in the fragile backing if there is your in trouble say goodnight that fridge is done rust process has already started, the 2410 has a three year warranty new I'm getting not Amish repaired or built the tubing is black thats how I could tell. They are not worth repairing unless its a burner or electrical problem not allowing it to boil liquid, if its getting to hot good luck getting another year out of it unless rust is causing a orange flame piled in the burner jet which causes it to overheat I felt the back of a working one in 90° weather it was barely warm from the collector tank up, the way it always should be but with nowhere for the water to go its best to leave them on low 24/7 at least if your not using it or eventually water damage occurs leaving pinhole leaks everywhere inside you generally dont smell as leaks these develop are extremely small I'm only now just smelling something funny and there is no liquid left its all sitting below the evaporators top and bottom of freezer in the insulation sealed so tight not even a fart could squeak out not worth fixing but if you want it to last always leave it on except if the freezer is over freezing then shut it down for a week and restart it should even out but you have just let your steel tubing gather rust you would think aluminum would be a better choice or stainless steel but no these fridges are as cheap as you can get thats why a Nordic I looked at or however its spelled same size would have worked 10 year warranty 1600$ instead of 800$ like a new dometic purchased from a rv refrigeration garage which online is about 1500$ plus shipping for the same damn one! If its dead find a rv shop that specializes in refrigeration or you shoot yourself in the foot they are not worth replacing the entire cooler and boiler assembly and it won't last and they are not fun to replace in any rv just get a new one another person and look on YouTube you can replace it yourself if your extremely careful how you handle it the worst part is getting it out the cab door. I've seen one person do it by himself in a hour but he prepared.

Uh ya they can work, mine leaked to a point and stopped no smell looked at insulation hiding beneath evaporator dry no colors or smells or moisture, let me retract a statement all though in this case my fridge was only dripping cold and freezer never use dry ice to freeze things up again (expansion/contraction hot/cold) in extremes will destroy a steel rusted pipe I got lucky my freezer is staying frozen on its own and my fridge section starting to freeze again with help of normal ice, if your fridge is only partially cold check the heat coming off your boiler stack, collector and the drain line going to it both of them also check the two lines running into the evaporator. Stack should be hot on high with boiler tube flame can't be orange from rust, everything from the collector up should be only partially warm to the touch not hot. The two tubes running off the condenser from the top too the inside and smaller collector tube should be same temperature neither should be hot of all three smaller or the bigger drain or cooling tubes too the collector the large tank. If it starts working right again with the help of ice its generally a leak you won't see or smell unless you look at the plastic near the freezer evaporator tubing see bubbles something has probably leaked or even rusted water leaking out. If freezer alone gets cold your evaporator tubing is still screwed it means rust and crud have blocked off a tube or caused a leak in which it has months at best without assistance. But in any case both freezer aluminum and fridge fins freezing with assistance of ice alone in the freezer indicates,low fluid overheats everything into a vapor causing draining coils to overheat along with everything else. Best to buy new this was a used rebuild only two years old off a 84 dometic Rm 2400 I'm going to attempt to buy a new one for 800$ only a few miles from here a dometic 2410 brand new near lifetime warranty if they haven't sold it by the time I get there. I'd like to save this one still works just needs ice help but to refill it I would need a special attachment and my refrigerant recovery pump then know exactly how much of which to add from a pint of mix seal up the evaporator tubing with zinc galvanizing compound I'm done getting a,new one this one is to rotted the more they warm up and cool when being used destroys them rusts the hell out of the evaporator if I get that fridge I'll send pictures,of where the failure is and why you dont smell it. Its freezing again although leaked water all over lower drawer destroying dog turd composite wood screws everywhere all warped it shredded into pieces this dolphin dont like me, oh and on high everything above the collector is back at room temperature before it would burn you definitely lost fluids why it would stop my only conclusion was response time I used normal ice to freeze everything over again removed freezer door then on the bottom slowly used dry ice in between ice bags to get all the evaporator tubing completely frozen again fluid started to build again from cold vapor and I got a cheap temporary fix eventually it will die completely.

Ya I knew that thats why I was so careful working the plug out put the dry ice in bottom of fridge at first until freezer froze up again but its been a month nothing I could do could save it just to rotted out it was already leaking when I got it did my best not to let the pipes expand or contract to quickly but evap is completely rotted out certain death, generator was jerry rigged no outlet for heat keeps overheating absolutely no air vents boiling gas.

Look for another one its dead evaporator rotted out and is leaking in I didnt smell anything or see anything but soft spots underneath plastic freezer bottom confirmed it rotted and all leaked out dry ice is the only thing getting it cold if you stick some in your freezer and everything freezes up and works right it leaked out all its fluid almost out of the evaporator.