Mister Blu
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West Coast Sunrader, born and bred.
https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/619015801915524/?search_query=inventory_management
Good bones, pretty face.
much has been done to it, so you don't have to.
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https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/619015801915524/?search_query=inventory_management
West coast, born and bred.
A lot of work has been done to this in the last three or four years.
To name but a few....
-new reman engine through LKQ complete with a premium three year unlimited mileage "Gold" warranty with more than two years remaining.
-new tires.
-new bearings and races for rear full floating axel.
-Reinforced frame w/custom hitch.
-rear stock storage pod
-Solar.
-outdoor shower
-bamboo counter tops.
-Luxury Vinyl Planking
-New water and propane lines.
and much, much more.
Additional pictures will be added next week.
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Better late than never...
Here it is.
https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/item/619015801915524/
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On 2/9/2019 at 7:06 PM, Gulfstream Greg said:
Not sure if this is the correct manual 8516. Is there a window that you can see the spark wire? The porcelain that the spark wire runs through can sometimes crack allowing the spark to short to the chassis. Same with the wire. You will still hear the snap of the spark. Same thing for the high voltage coil on the board, that coil can go bad and you will still hear the snap. Electricity is like water, it takes the path of least resistance. The spark igniter wire probably sparks to the burner. A bad destroyed burner will cause the energy to go elsewhere, the path of least resistance. That said it is possible to kill the high voltage coil in that scenario due to internal arching. If your burner is good then try bending the wire closer to the burner and see if you get spark. Note that the spark wire also senses if the is flame after ignition. Long story but rule out everything before throwing a new board at it. Even check your electrical grounds.
Not sure about a window. Do not see any? A few times i was able to stick a BBQ long lighter into exhaust and light it that way. After three or four successful attempts, i have not been able to get it to fire again. Is there a way to access the spark gap while furnace is still installed in rv?
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Thank you Linda!
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For an oem 1986 Sunrader tail light assembly. Only missing the red translucent cover for Brake Light.
Anyone have one of these sitting aside?
Let me know what you need to get for it?
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On 11/5/2016 at 5:28 PM, Lee & Joan said:
4) I looked at the sparking points and they were not sparking where the gas flow was happening, they had been pushed against the frame, so they would spark but not light the gas so the control panel would shut off the gas. When I got the spark where it needed to be I finally had heat
Okay... This is where i am at. How to access the "sparking points" to clean, align, et cetera? Detailed step by step will be helpful.
Model 8516
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A beautiful, west coast born and bred, 21foot custom Sunrader Classic.
-210RD- Rear Dinette
-22REC - Fuel Injected
-many hours, sweat, and tears-much cold cash and warm wax over three years has gone into this here Sunrader.
-this was true even before the newly remanufactured engine was installed last September, complete with a three year unlimited mileage warranty...
-including many new parts to compliment the fresh engine. Well over 4k under the hood in 2018.
-original odometer currently reads 47500. The original engine was probable repairable, maybe a new head, yet... as i was in Texas, and without a shop.
-can you believe that a new EGR is well over a hundred dollars for the part alone!
-new-ish tires (7k+ on them) from Les Schwabb
-new water lines throughout (pex).
-new water pump, accumulator, water heater, and out door shower.
-new led running lights.
-Fantastic Fan, and second vent.
-awning in excellent condition.
-custom hitch w/ reinforced frame.
-rear suspension air bags.
-fresh bearings and races in rear.
-bamboo countertop, desktop, and surface above fridge.
-original fridge works well.
-1/2inch plywood flooring added.
-luxury vinyl planking.
-fresh paint.
-custom back benches w/ bamboo writing desk.
-some new ductwork.
-new water ports.
-new copper propane lines inside.
-100watt solar (ready for more)
-brand new, unused sewer dump hose line.
-original tape cassette (will include a modern c.d. 0layer you can install)
-now vinyl strip that covers the screws holding clam shell together.
-more importantly, every screw beneath that vinyl strip has been replaced with stainless steel screws and sealed in.
-beautiful rig.
-when i get a bit further along with the finish work inside the coach, I will get some pics together
-along with a far more detailed list of the work i have done, and all the new stuff that has been installed.
i have owned this for about three years... maybe a bit more.
And the vast majority of that time, i have been working in it. Improving it.
I did take it to Texas and back. New engine was installed in Texas. After a brief break in period and process, I hit the road and drove back here to Oregon.
A few 100 mile trips before, and a few since.
This Sunrader Classic 21footer also has the original factory installed storage box accessory option.
**NOTE**
This Sunrader is will be listed at 14.7k.
Although this is. Ot yet avaiable for viewing, with the right offer i may be willing to entertain a discussion.
Otherwise... sale coming soon!
This is merely a preemptive courtesy to the members of this group, for which i have a particular appreciation.
Peace.
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On 12/30/2018 at 9:25 PM, Oldgriz said:
Does it light? If it's a direct spark ignition does it light then go out ? If it does your flame sensor rod could not be sensing the flame because of oxidation build up on it. You will have to pull it out and clean it with sand paper. That should make it work but sometimes have to be replaced.
No. It does not light. When it does not light. I hear the ticking, so, i assume it is sparkng.
I smell the gas for a moment.
Prior to it failing to ignite at all, for about a weeks I did begin to hear that ticking ongoing... even while furnace was working just fine?
Sensor? Spark gap? Control Board?
my shoestrings are torn...
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It fired up this evening. Once. And then not again.
The board you think? Or the positiion of the ignitor dilly-bobber?
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Replaced engine as well as many peripheral parts and engine accessories.
Did not realize an e.g.r. is nearly $200.
Made it back to Oregon three weeks after breakdown.
Total cost... shy of 4K.
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In my situation, any squeal is nominal, and seems to be more prevalent with a depleted battery. Maybe a good cleaning.
As far as the furnace not firing... well, it did tonight. It isn't going right now. Over the last two or so days, I have tried it in different situations trying t g it to light. This evening, it fired up and i was not plugged in to shore power. First time in two or three days.
not sure if it will fire up again after it turns off, we will see.
Any ideas?
Ignitor positioing maybe?
Can some one offer a link to a replacement control module, preferably the upgraded one?
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6 hours ago, Gulfstream Greg said:
Mine had the same symptoms, had to put it on the bench for testing in order to find out the spark gap was too wide. Electricity will find the shortest path to ground so if it is not sparking at the gap it could be sparking somewhere else outside the fire chamber. If the wire gets a crack in the insulation this could happen. The board senses flame with the spark wire. If the wire is broken somewhere or the coil is shorted on the board the electronics will not see flame and try to relight. Note the gasket died when I pulled the view port hatch off. It took a few tries to get the correct. The gasket is important to keep those bad gasses out of the heated air!
How to access the " spark gap". To check if it is functioning properly. Is this what the "view port" is for?
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Hydroflame model 8516
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Got any links for motor?
And for an upgrade board?
Preferably Amazon for ease of purchase, and delivery.
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2 minutes ago, Derek up North said:
All normal this time, so one of the Interweb's mysteries. You aren't Russian or Chinese by any chance?
No, not much of a Russian here.
Personally, i enjoy going a bit slower. Taking my time.
Even when i am a running bee-hind.
and no. Never been to China.
Earthling maybe. God's country. Currently living in the P.N.W.
Frost last night.
Which is more cost/time effective... a Mister heater, or fixing this?
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One reference I found did mention one possible cause being bad high tension wire, or loose connection. I hear it ticking(presumably igniter trying to light a fire).
And as I mentioned before, a few days prior to furnace going on the fritz, i did noticed that I heard the same tick tick ticking even even after furnace flame was lit. Related?
How much is a compatible, upgrade board?
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1 hour ago, WME said:
A quick check to eliminate a few things.. Try running the truck engine when you turn the heater on.
Tried with engine off and adequate batteries power.
Tried with engine on and idling. Tried with engine on and driving.
Tried while connected to shore power.
Although the fan occasionally squeeks a bit, it is not impeded by lint, dust, dirt, or other debris. That i can see.
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Likewise. Not sure how that happened. Never saw it before. Thought it weird. Hopefully, that istaken care of.
Let me know if it is not.
...and pardon. If it was, indeed, my doing.
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Experiencing similar issues. Symptoms so far are as follows: blows cold air fairly well (the sail likely works) . I hear the tick tick tick tick of (presumably) the igniter trying to fire the propane that i do smell when troubleshooting (so valve is opening).
A couple or three days before heater went out, I noticed what sounded like the aforementioned tick tick tick tick tick that seem to continue even after fire was lit. This is probably relevant to the trouble shooting process.
Any ideas? Temps are dropping a bit in this solstice night.
Many thanks.
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Side question that may no longer be pertinant...
What are the chances that the long block did not have to go?
How does one tell if the engine was down for, or if only the head gasket needed to be changed, or the head replaced at most?
Is this engine swap premature?
1986 Sunrader Refurbished
in Improvement and Do-It-Yourself Projects you have done to Share!
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The shag carpet trim, I only recently put up.
Originally, i had planned to eliminate all of that, and do a little woodworking for custom trim.
As it is, i am looking forward to the next adventure, and this one is now for sale.
She is in better condition now than she has been in twenty plus years.
in some ways, better than ever.
The cab is still stock, with original carpet.
The next owner's project.
https://eugene.craigslist.org/rvs/d/eugene-1986-toyota-sunrader/6950980834.html