Mister Blu

The engine I have procured is from LKQ, and is out of Grand Prairie. Pretty pricey though. Wonder if I paid too much. Tough to chew. Although, they do seem to carry a pretty decent warranty; Three year unlimited mileage (parts and labor) that pays up to $100/hr in labor. Mechanic did not yet reveal to me the underlying problem. Not sure. Hope to find out exactly what happened though. What can I expect to pay for the install? Anything I ought to know going forward?

What should i expect to pay for a qualit remanufactured engine? What should i watch out for? What ought i be wary of?

Has añyone ever got a crate engine from LKQ Corp? What ought I expect to pay for a remanufactured long block? Thoughts on Springing for this upgraded performance engine? http://www.high-performance-engines.com/toyota-22rec-performance-engine-p/813p.htm Or should I stay with stock specs?

Looking into remanufactured engine. Any thoughts?

Looks like I need a new engine. What costs/options am I looking at? Anyone have any informati N that may help. Time I see of the essence. Please help... with a preemptive thank you.

Thanks Little Shack. Prayers are appreciated!

Okay all. Potentially an unfortunate sutuation... maybe real bad (relatively speaking). After my last post on this topic, I stopped for fuel, checked coolant levels and the later wa a mere three quarters inch low. Topped off with about a cup of water. Drove on down the road. Within the next fifty miles, I passed a Walmart in Childress, Texas. Almost immediately I noticed the temp gauge shoot up past higher white line and touch the red. The next exit was less than a mile down the road, so I turn around hoping to make it back to the Walmart. As I turned around, cooloant began steaming out of the hood. I not wNting to stop on the side of the road and be stranded re in hundred degree heat, I turned on the hazards and drove on the shoulder about fifteen miles per hour back to the Walmart about a mile away. As coolant came through window and got in my right eye, I went in the store and was was able to flush my eyes with their eye flushing machine... thanks to a considerate employee. Afterwards, I went back out to see if their was something obvious causing the leak like a blown hose or something. The only thing that I saw on the cursory search was the cap and tube came off and out of the coolant reservoir tank. This appears to have been the exit point for the coolant. At the advise of a mobile tech, I refilled the radiator with fresh coolant and checked if there was anoe rleak elsewhere. No apparent leaks coming from anywhere else. In idle, engine did not want to remain start. Shimmied and shook a little. Rough running. Engine was certainly sounding a bit different. Mechanic that I was talking in phone with suggested I look at a few things, including smelling the Christ to see if it smells of coolant. That is when I noticed white smoke coming from exhaust. It also had an unusual pulse to it. The dipstick looked okay, no froth. Engine does not want to stay started. Have a mechanic set to look at it tomorrow at his shop. Suggestions? At the moment, I seem to be at the mercy of small town mechanics. On the road, and three thousand miles from home.

Okay, so it is a 100 degrees. That is likely the issue with the temp being above the halfway mark. Concerning the noise... it seems to be most predominate in overdrive.... i.e. Above 60 when overdrive kicks in. Thoughts?

Can hear that noise begin as I approach forty mph or so... before it switches gears.

Driving towards Amarillo today in 90 degree heat. Say the temp gauge move up above halfway mark for the first time ever. This also seems to be accompanied with crunchy little rattle noise(not really a rattle). I am aware of the timing chain issues on these. Engine only has 43700 on it. Hoping it is not that. The noise is somewhat intermittent, and only seems to have appeared over the past twenty miles. When it down shifts, it seems to dissipate. This sound seems like I think may be more of crunchy gurgling. Not so much of a gurgle though. No apparent leaks. When stopped and in Park, when I give it some throttle, the noise is not there. Had a tough time last year with the donut exhaust gaskets. Could it be this? Does not really sound like that though. need to be in Oregon soon. Should be concerned?

Linda: I previously removed the aluminum roof rack. Maineah: picked up stray, or ghost, voltage with two separate NCVT. I do have a fluke 116 (real tester). jjrbus: no inverter to speak of. Just the original converter. Unplugged from shore powere an dreading was still there. As I am in the road currently, and no longer in the same spot, I will check I think again to see if it was merely picking up a ghost current from nearby wires. Interesting side note... Many years ago I was riding my longboard around town while using a NCVT as a signal light of sorts. When I punch the button the red light would blink, made for a decent make shift turn signal. One times, while under some overhead wires, the things start going of. Led me to consider the potentially adverse effects of all the extra electrical currents humanity has strung all about.

Cool. Thanks for the heads up WME! Appreciate the quick response.

Has anyone taken their rig on highway 150 south from Evanston to Kamas, Utah? If so, what is this highway like? How passable is it for our rigs? Am in a 1986 21' Sunrader and am considering a detour through this area. Are the road super steep? Am currently heavy laden with scooter in back, and fully outfitted. I understand that there is a pass with 10k elevation? Would enjoy the detour, yet I really do not want to stress the rig on this trip. Please Advise.

Unplugged from a.c. Shore power, and unwanted voltage is still registering on both non contact voltage testers. Also have found that it reads over the hole surface of ceiling. Walls do not register, only ceiling.

I opted to use 5' flexible propane hose by Mister Heater. Is there a potential issue with this?

Here is the diagram I have so far.

Okay finally getting back at this little corner project. Installed sw6d water heater and attached to new plumbing in rig. Purchased a new control module. It appears as though i a mother missing the D.C. Junction box. Have not been able to find new junction box online. Any leads? Wiring is screwy. Some missing. Will replace with 105c 18awg wire. Does anyone have any pics of the wiring placement. Found wiring diagram, yet it is not clear. Real life pictures will be. Great help. -Red wires to from thermostat to where? -which wires to d.c. Junction/from where? And then on to control module? -Positive power wire is black and neutral is black? Is this correct? Any pics will be helpful! -Also, opted to use 5' flexible supply hose for propane, instead of rigid copper tubing. Any potential issues there? Thanks all.

jjrbus: The Sunrader is fiberglass. No metal shell.

WME: Not certain what/where you are speaking to with concern to wiring. Are you speaking to the wiring in the converter/fuse box? Under the hood? Along some run or other, to or fro? Some time ago, I heard something about how the shell/body of an auto/rv can become charged. Do not recall the context. jjrbus: No roof air. Solar panel is not installed yet. Non-Contact Voltage Tester; one is a Klein (pen style), the other is on a clamp meter. Both register some amount of voltage. It also is not only in one place, as with with a hot wire behind ceiling. It seems to register within an inch or so from ceiling, along at least 20 square feet area. Strange indeed. Will try a few idea to see what happens.

Have a couple of non contact voltage testers and happened to notice one of them started beating when I brought it close to the Ceiling. Checked it with the other NCV tester and it confirmed that there appears to be some mysterious voltage coming from/through the coaches ceiling in my Sunrader. What could this be from? Has anyone else experienced this? Is it the fiberglass? Is this something I should be concerned about? Not sure of the source of this phantom voltage. Please advise.

To clarify... If i were to install a new isolator to replace the old one, I can have the new isolator to coach system (flooded batteries) as well as to the truck (agm battery) without problems or concern? Thanks for the pointers all.

Maineah: Not quite sure if I understand your statement about "connecting the truck battery". Was not intending on combining truck battery in with the coach batteries in any other fashion than perhaps through the isolator. At most, I aim to have two Trojan t-105 6v batteries for the coach. The truck battery is currently of the AGM type. by question regarding the truck battery only had to do with replacing existing isolator under the hood, and if there was any conflict with having AGM (truck battery) being charged from alternator, and the coach batteries(flooded) also being charged by alternator via the isolator. Perhaps that is whatbyou we're referring to? What do you mean when you say if I "...try and charge all of the batteries at the same time because if you connect the truck battery you will be eliminating the isolator running a risk of a dead truck battery"?

Jmowrey: Do you have a particular charger you recommend? Have a limited budget. Renogy is preferred. Have not seen any "dual controllers". Will these charge the two flooded Trojans in coach, and an AGM under the hood? Will like to have one 100w panel on the roof, and another that i can take up to 50 feet from coach to get better sun. Unsure of how I would connect these. Perhaps run wire from panel on roof into coach, and splice second panel into this wire just before the charge controller? Is there a maximum distance that each panel can be from one another?

Charge controller is the Renogy Wanderer 30A with 4 stage charging. No digital readouts. Only led signal light. Considering upgrading to one with read outs so I can better monitor the voltage, amperage, etc. So, what I hear you telling me is that I can go ahead and install a new isolator to replace the original, and have that charge batteries, along with solar, and still have original converter in the chain? All without causing a conflict and possibly overcharging batteries, or worse?

Thanks for the input WME. Recap: 1) no transfer switch necessary. 2)acquire a second 100W Panel. Extra input will help preserve battery life. 3)smart charge is same as smart controller. (What is the 30A PMW controller? Is this sufficient?) 4)mainly boondocking, some shore power hook up. Need I concern myself with replacing/upgrading o.e.m. converter? Additional questions: A) Do you mean to say itnis best for me to run wires coming from 'battery' ports directly to battery? B)Is new underhood isolator necesary? (Current isolator is disconnected) C) Are there any issues with having power source coming from alternator via isolator and solar at same time? D) what, if any, are the issues with plugging into shore power while having solar input? (Conflicts?) To confirm: It is okay to connect wires coming from charge controller directly to battery, while keeping existing wiring untouched?