mike thomason

The LP gas tank is half full. I think I am going to empty it then try to get the valve repaired by a person that is trained to do this kind of work. The place I fill up with gas is a good place to start I'd guess. Thanks anyway.

It's not removable. It is built in.

I am getting ready to leave and I wanted to try out the gas appliances and see that everything is working. When I turned the main valve on I had a stream of gas coming out around the packing I guess. I could feel the gas on my hand a little and I could hear it too. When I turn the valve all the way open it nearly stops but you can still smell it. Can anyone help me with what I need to do here. I know nothing about this type of issue, at least not yet.

I will definitely look into those items. Thank you for your help.

I went ahead and ordered the Bilstein's Derek. I got the 24-184830 for the front and the 24-002585 for the rear. AJUSA had them or could get them and they were specifically for Toyota MH's. Got them for $65 ea. with free shipping. Thank again for your help. One more thing I would like to ask. I don't think my MH had air bags. Should I add them while I am doing this?

Thank you Derek. I appreciate the help.

My 1986 Sunland express needs shocks. I called Napa and they don't have anything they can recommend without bringing the old ones in and getting numbers or measuring them. I've looked at the shocks. They look like they have been on there for 31 years. Can anybody suggest a way to deal with this? Thanks.

OK, last question first. With the exception of small amounts of leakage, the current returning to the power supply in your typical 2-wire circuit will be equal to the current leaving the power supply. If the difference between the current leaving and returning through the current transformer of the GFCI exceeds 5mA, the solid-state circuitry opens the switching contacts and de-energizes the circuit. If the GFCI is tripping, you're leaking current somewhere. If the test button on your GFCI trips the breaker, and you can reset it, your breaker is probably OK. As far as disconnecting the load and still not getting any power at the GFCI receptacle, I'm not sure. I have never tried that before, but it does not surprise me if it does not work. Breakers usually work for long periods of time with no issues. I think it would be highly unlikely that both breakers failed at the same time.

It only takes approximately 5 mA (0.005 A) of current leakage from the hot wire to the ground to cause a GFCI to trip. A small amount of leakage current may be difficult to avoid in some normal circuits. Some stationary motors, such as a bathroom vent fan or fluorescent lighting fixtures, may produce enough leakage to cause nuisance tripping. Another problem may be a long circuit with a lot of splices. If possible, keep GFCI circuits less than 100 feet long. To avoid nuisance tripping, a GFCI should not supply: Circuits longer than 100 feet. Fluorescent or other types of electric-discharge lighting fixtures. Permanently installed electric motors. You can try to find the cause of the +5 mA current leakage by unplugging and or turning everything off. If everything is off and you still trip the GFIC the problem may be in the wiring supplying the panel. Also you can get GFCI pigtails for a reasonable price to help troubleshoot the problem. You can then plug into a non GFCI circuit and use the pigtail to see if the problem still exists.

Approximately 13.8 volts is usually where you see the charging voltage at. You could verify this by starting your engine and checking the voltage at the battery terminals.