Badgerbear

Great, thank you! Can any V6 owners comment on how they use or don't use this ECT button?

Yes when I first got the dolphin, I would press the button when I was going to climb a hill and a light would come on that said ECT power and I noticed it would affect the RPMs and shifting. For the last couple years when you press it no lights come on and there is no difference and shifting or RPMs. Thanks for doing some digging on that for me!

I've called at least 10 mechanics yesterday and every one said they couldn't do the job, most without explanation a couple said because they didn't have the assortment of shims needed. I agree, everyone that I've heard of that does the V6 valve adjustment finds some tight or almost burnt valves when they get in there. If I can find somebody to do the job, am I right at thinking it could cost around a $1,000 bucks? That's some good info, thanks everybody.

When I first got the 89 V6 Dolphin the ECT button on the dash worked, but has since stopped lighting up or doing anything when pressed. What is this for and how do i fix it? I've checked fuses, but could have missed something.

I'm at 70,000 miles now and still haven't got the valve adjustment on my 89 v6 Dolphin and its been bothering me. Wondering if someone knows a mechanic who can do this near Hood River, Oregon, or Portland also. I tried to have this done at a local mechanic last year after they assured me they do them all the time on the 3.0. They called a few hours after taking in into the shop and said they actually couldn't do the job at all with out some special tools or something. It runs good and has been absolutely awesome and realiable, but i think it may be idling a little rough... I think this job is out of my league, but i'll keep an open mind on that. I did rear axle seals, wheel bearings and rear brakes and that was pushing my mechanic skill level to give you an idea!!

Yep, probably won't go to this mechanic again. I asked them when I dropped it off if they have done valve adjustment on the 3vze before, and they said oh yeah especially on those Toyota motorhomes. I asked him again the 3.0 V6 they said yep no problem

Thanks for posting that up. I have it printed and will show the mechanic. Well I'm just gonna roll with it I suppose, because I definitely can't afford $1000 on this job right now. I know a guy down the street that got the valve adjustment done on his 3.0 motorhome in Sandy, OR and was really happy with the work. I Will try that, but for now I'm going on my first real road trip! Washington-Colorado-Kansas and back!

Thanks Linda, I will mention that to them. I just called the Toyota dealership to ask them about the valve adjustment on a 3.0 V6 and they said they would highly recommend to not ever adjust the valves unless you hear noise. They said something about it being a low pressure system that's highly lubricated so it doesn't need adjusted very often. They said it can be done but it's a really hard job to avoid at all costs.

Update: Just got a call from the mechanic and they said " we pulled in the Toyota and this has the shim over a bucket valve train, so there is no adjustment. There is no rocker arm where the lifters are. I had my mechanic pull off one of the valve covers to verify this. There is no charge and we put a new gasket on and you are good to go. There is no ticking or noise so I don't believe you are having any issue and the low miles (65,000) we believe you are good to go"

They know it's a v6 3.0, not the 4 banger. I'm not sure how I will know if they did a proper job other than getting the valve clearances, but I will keep you posted.

It's scheduled for tomorrow morning

Hmm. I think I'm leaning towards running with it and telling them I want to no the valve clearances were? I will also ask if they have done the valve adjustment on a 3.0 before. I haven't had work done from this mechanic yet, but it seems to have a good reputation and it's a nice big shop. .. Del-Carpine in Hood River, OR

1989 V6 Dolphin 65,000 miles: Got a quote last year for $500 from a local mechanic, which I thought sounded cheap. Then I was in a different mecanic shop in town the other day and asked them about doing a valve adjustment on my Dolphin. Off the top of there head they said 1.5 to 2 hrs of work and expect around $200-$300! Called them today and they called me back and said they would have to replace a gasket, and they could get the shims in town, $315! And it would be done before lunch. Is there anything I should be aware of??? The timing belt was replaced at 59,000 before I bought the vehicle.. Thanks, Eric

I have a normal BBQ grill propane tank laying on its side in the compartment. That article made it sound like that could be my problem. Do I need a special tank to be positioned horizontally? P.S. Just got back from my First real trip in the Dolphin - ( 3 hr drive to the Oregon Coast and 3 days of driving up and down the coast and back home). I could not be happier with how it drove and preformed! 60-70mph no problem and real easy and fun to drive!

So when I use my stove and water heater absolutely no propane smell or problems. Now all of the sudden when I was using my furnace I started smelling propane inside. I went outside immediately to turn it off at the tank and the smell was really strong outside and the regulator was frosted over hardcore! I disconnected the tank and it seemed like there was an excessive amount of pressure in the line. I tried it again last night and same thing happened- used the stove with no propane smell or frost on the regulator then fired up the furnace And got a massive propane odor and a frosted up regulator. Is it a problem with the regulator or the furnace itself? Thanks so much

Ok great. Worryin for nothin=) y'all are the best!

Flushed 3 Times and went with prestone green for the refill. Still heating up a tad on climbing up hill. Its not bad, but I the needle does move a bit out of normal temp. Guess I probably should have replaced the thermostat in the process.

Not meaning to stir up a coolant debate, but can I go with green?

1989 Dolphin V6 auto 64,000 What the heck is this coolant? Is it a mix of red and green? So I bought this Dolphin last fall and love it! I have taken it on a couple 3hr trips (one over mt. Hood) and a number hour or so trips and never had issues with heating up. I also remodeled it and made it my full time home=) A month ago on a extremely hot day I noticed the temp rising above normal on the hwy, but the needle never got much above halfway. It seems to be heating up more often now while climbing up hills at low speed 35-40 but the needle never quite gets to half. I haven't tried it out climbing a hill on the interstate except driving it over hood last fall and it didn't heat up at all then. I Finally went to replace the coolant today as an attempt to see if I could determine anything about my heating up issue and because I have no idea when or what is in there! So this ugly looking stuff came out and I'm quite confused on what it is and what I should do next. I read there is some controversy over coolant types ect.., Ive only seen green and didn't know they even made other colors. When I shake it froths up with bubbles that last a second, then it goes flat again with no bubbles. I have not seen bubbles in the overflow tank or anything. I have been pretty paranoid about head gaskets since I bought this rig with the V6 but it has been pretty decent to me so FAR. P.s there was a TINY bit of oil coating the pan that I drained the coolant into.

I filled it back up with gear lube, bled the brakes and took it for a test drive. Everything seems to be rolling smooth and I think the little shimmy i had above 50mph is gone. The brakes are more spongy than I would like, but I'm gonna try to bleed them again as soon as I can find a helper. Huge thanks to everyone (especially WME) for your help! I had no idea what I was doing and don't know how I would have made it happen with out your help.

Good thing I took the other side back apart, because the outer seal wasn't all the way in since I had it on the axle shaft instead of inside the axle tube. I packed a bunch of grease in between the bearings and everything is put back together! Now I need a refresher on bleeding brakes since I changed out the wheel cylinders. Thanks so much for your help!

The area between the outer and inner bearings and races were completely packed full of grease when i pulled them off. I just need to pack the bearings with grease right, opposed to packing the whole thing with about a tube of grease?

Agreed! I like the modified Allen bolts much better than those darn Phillips bolts that gave me such a battle. I will make sure to line up the bolts with the hash marks, thanks. I also may be pulling the other side back off to make sure that outer seal set properly since I had it on the axle shaft instead of inside the axle tube and checking the alignment of the hash marks and lock bolts. Much appreciated

Ok got them two dang screws out finally with a cold chisle, slotted screw driver and impact wrench combo! So on this side I see the outer seal is inside the hub and on the other side I found it on the axle, so that's where I installed the new outer seal. It seems like a better idea to install the new outer seal inside the hub opposed to on the axle. I have concern that the outer seal I put on the axle may not seat properly.? Thanks again for your help everyone!