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RaderNed

Toyota Advanced Member
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About RaderNed

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1985 21' Sunrader, 22re
  • Location
    On the road

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  1. Looks like we're the only ones interested! Might just be easier to coordinate with them directly since no discount until 10 units are ordered. It's Lenny at Motorsports Tech, motorsportjr@gmail.com, or 775-351-1000.
  2. Wheel adapters - who needs them? If you've got one of those toyhomes with 5-lug wheels in the front and 6-lug wheels in the back, wouldn't it be nice to be able to carry just one spare that fits both? That's possible with one 5-lug to 6-lug adapter. Or get two adapters and use 6-lug rims all around. The specific adapters needed for our toyhome application, 5x4.5- 6x7.25, aren't easily available. I've been talking to Motorsports Tech, who can custom fabricate them for us. Ordered individually, the adapters are $100 each. However, if there are enough of us out there, with an order of ten it's down to $90, and at 20 ordered it's down to $80. Let me know if you're interested and I'm happy to coordinate with motorsport tech. Shipping to anywhere in the US in a USPS large flat rate box would be $17.60 each.
  3. Does anyone have a parts list of all the suspension rubber for an '85 Sunrader with the 1-ton rear axle? I'm heading to Mexico, know a good mechanic there who can do the replacement, but would like to take the parts with me. Would prefer to go with rubber over urethane. Saw a list on the forums, but it was for a much later year.
  4. Hi Linda. I'm wanting to replace my front and rear suspension rubber, '85 Sunrader on '85 chassis, one-ton rear axle. Can you help me out with exactly what parts I need? I've read through past posts but can't get it straight. Would like to go with rubber. Thanks! 

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. RaderNed

      RaderNed

      Okay, thanks for the tips. Do you think if I go to a toy dealer parts desk they'd be able to help? 

    3. linda s

      linda s

      Not unless you know what to ask for. They don't have a list of all rubber parts for a vehicle. They have to look up each individual bushing for the specific part it's used for. So you need to know all the suspension and steering parts that take a rubber bushing. Yes once you find that out you could go to Toyota and ask for all those parts but it will cost you. Nothing like paying $12 dollars at Toyota for a bushing Beck Arnley makes for $3. Trust me, ask the group. They will steer you in the right direction. 

    4. RaderNed

      RaderNed

       Okay, thanks again! 

  5. Yeah, I don't normally leave it on, and I'm pretty confident there's not a leak, it's just one of those niggling little issues I'd like to take care of.
  6. Thanks, I've done that but doesn't seem to be it
  7. The fact that the pump stops cycling after one to three times makes me lean towards the check valve too. If it was a leak, seems like it would continue to cycle, and there'd be pretty obvious water somewhere
  8. That's an interesting possibility as I didn't do that when I filled and started the system last time. Do I need to drain the heater tank to do that now? Or the whole system?
  9. I'll take a closer look at the hot water tank just to be sure, but no obvious signs of leakage around it or under it (looking at the floor under it from beneath the rv). Thanks for the tip
  10. Thanks, that's reassuring. I figured it has either something to do with the pump, switch or maybe toilet valve. I replaced the toilet valve not too long ago so probably not that. Liked that link, too. Thanks!
  11. Are there causes for the coach water pump cycling when the system's not in use (no tap open, not flushing toilet, etc) other than leaks in the system? My pump does this somewhat intermittently. For instance, about 90% of the time, within 30 seconds after I've closed a tap or completed a flush, the pump will give one very brief grunt. About 50% of the time, between 3 and 5 minutes later, it'll give another grunt. Sometimes, but rarely, it'll grunt again 5 minutes later. After that, it doesn't happen again. I can (and have) leave the pump on all night and it won't grunt again. If its has its first grunt or two, I can turn it off over night and it won't grunt again when I switch it on in the morning. Other than one short section that runs behind the fiberglass bathroom unit wall, I've checked all the piping and connections and they're bone dry. I've checked the drain tubes coming from the system drainage valves, and they'd dry. I've checked the pump and the floor under the pump, and it's dry. I have checked the plumbing going into the water heater, and checked in, around and under the compartment it's in, but I haven't pulled the heater all the way out. I'm stumped! I did drain the system last year, is it possible there's an air bubble in there somewhere that's causing this? I've used all the taps since then.
  12. Quick update. I opted to try new rear shocks first. Got the Bilsteins online. Made a great difference in ride. Thanks everyone for all the input.
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