hunkaman

update: i have been in contact with a seller from the great state of texas that has a nice cluster. the only hitch at the moment is the seller cannot recall if the cluster came from a 3.0v6 or the 3.4v6. does anyone know if the larger 3.4 would make a difference since i have the 3.0 ??? while i am here, another question to throw out there. does it matter if the donor cluster came from a 4wd ?? thanks in advance. joe from dover.

hi again. still working on getting the cluster swap done. with derek's suggestion, i appears my rig does not have a cable driven speedo. i followed derek's advice , and no speedometer cable showed as an available part, although a speed sensor did. so, the cluster i bought last year will not work since it is a cable driven cluster. i have spent many eye straining hours at the computer trying to find a compatible cluster. i have found two or three that will work for me with the exception that they are from a manual shift donor vehicle, thus does not have the pndrl which i would prefer. does anyone know where i can locate the cluster i need??? requirements : 3.0 v6. automatic trans. 2 wheel drive. and NON cable driven speedo. must be an electronic speedo. t-100 or 4runners, from 92 to 95 i believe are swap friendly. any help with this is extremely appreciated. thanks. joe from dover. p.s. to derek- thank you for your tip.

hey there. been following your build. great job. thanks so much for sharing. your rig is awesome. i am almost 70 years old, but can still appreciate a cool rig and all the talent, time and money it took to get "cool". again , what a great job. joe from dover.

I LIKE 3M SPRAY ADHESIVE. READ DIRECTIONS ON CAN. JOE FROM DOVER.

happy new year all. another place i found that has dump stations is the county fairgrounds. i live less than a mile from our fairgrounds, here in dover, ohio. i also store my rig at the fairgrounds from nov. to april, indoor storage. the fairgrounds rent storage space in the buildings over the winter. i do not know if other states do this, but it may be worth checking out. there is 24/7/365 access to my fairground dump station. it cost three dollars, no attendant, pay on the honor system via drop box. it is also another source for short stay camping as there are water and electric hook ups. these hook ups are typically used for the various food vendors during our week long county fair in early sept. i am curious if this is common in other states. just thought i would throw this out there. joe from dover.

hello all. as of now i am back to square one with this cluster swap issue. here is what has transpired . i bought what i thought was the correct cluster. the cluster i bought is a CABLE driven speedometer. my mechanic told me i need an electronic driven speedometer cluster. how can i determine with 100 percent accuracy that i do indeed need a non cable speedo type cluster? is there someplace/link i could enter my VIN and get the correct info regarding this issue? i basically have all winter to research this, just would like some help in where to start. my mechanic is very knowledgeable, but anyone can make a mistake. could this be a situation where some cabs had both speedo versions in the same model year, mine being a 1992 , 3.0L , 6 cyl, auto trans. if i do need a electronic type speedo, is this type of cluster more rare and hard to find? thanks for any info, opinion, or help with this . joe from dover.

i recently returned from 5 days at hhsp. this was my third time. just be prepared for unlevel parking sites. and spotty cell reception. i will return again for the natural beauty, and have plenty of leveling blocks, lol. joe from dover.

hi there. i put kyb on my warrior last year. went to shockwarehouse.com price was half of the coveted bilstein. free shipping. no regrets and have more $$ for beer. joe from dover.

ok, thank you again for your help. i am a little nerve wacky about this, having never attempted something like this before. will be a happy day when i post that it is done and working as expected. thanks again, i need all the help i can get, and then some. joe from dover.

hello there, to be clear, i am not an expert, but the photos seem to indicate you are looking at a complete roof replacement. my 92 winnie warrior had a complete new roof in 2016 due to water damage, and the damage to my rig did not appear to be as severe as yours. my roof job was covered by insurance and done by an rv shop locally. the bill for the entire roof including new vents, and new ceiling was close to 5k. sorry if i am raining on your parade, just thought i would give you my experience for something to ponder. hope the best for your future. joe from dover.

odysseybernard, i have the 6 cyl. 3.0 i guess the previous posts that indicated the added ( to make tach work ) wire was for a 4 cylinder ??? no added wire needed for the 3.0 6 cylinder ? since i am here, another question, the cluster i bought i believe, has a "low fuel" indicator light. will this light function when swap is completed without any other parts, or modifications ? sorry for my ignorance, just thought it would be great to have the low fuel light function as well. thanks in advance. joe from dover.

welcome, how could you go wrong for under a grand! looks like a winner. enjoy. joe from dover.

hey there and welcome. regarding a few of your questions: i removed the decals, aka graphics from my 1992 winnie warrior, using an "eraser wheel". you can purchase from auto body supply store. it mounts to a drill and will remove the graphics without damage to underlying surface paint. look for past posts on this topic in the forum, there are a few who have done this and posted info, and pics. you can purchase new graphics cut to match from most sign shops that do vinyl type work, or you can buy the vinyl in bulk and diy. your front window looks troublesome. if once the tape is removed, and there is no underlying rot , you can probably have a glass shop cut a new window to fit the frame. i have found these rigs require a lot of work to keep them in good shape. problems ignored or not corrected properly by a po, will result in much more time and money to invest. good luck. joe from dover.

hey all, need some more info regarding getting the tach to function. do i understand correctly that i need to run a wire from the coil to the "p" terminal on the cluster? if so how can i identify which wire from the coil is the correct one to splice to? am i looking for a color coded wire, such as a black wire with a yellow stripe? does the schematic identify which wire from the coil to use? thanks in advance for help with this question. joe from dover.

i tend to agree with most of your observations regarding our 'OLD' rigs. i have some strong opinions as well. i dispute your view as to value. these are desirable vehicles to a segment of the RV world. simple economics law of supply and demand regulate the price of anything, including these rigs. i have found most owners, in my opinion, truly are invested in keeping them road worthy and attractive. i also feel a certain passion exists because owners know that they are preserving a bit of history by maintaining and updating their rigs. When i bought my rig i was as neubie as one could be. not ever having owned a MH before. i give a ton of credit to this forum for helping with information, and answering a ton of questions from neubies . almost every inquiry from prospective buyers on this forum have had an answer that hopefully will be of benefit in directing the buyer to make an informed purchase. advertised prices are also usually negotiable. it is very true that even "mint" rigs will require upkeep, and that should be factored in when considering a purchase. that said name something with a motor and wheels that DOES NOT require upkeep. bottom line is if you feel the price is too much, don't buy it. joe from dover.

HEY DEREK, thanks for the link. will call the place to get more info. maybe what i need to have the odo read correctly. thanks again. joe from dover.

i ordered the oil sending unit yesterday. took the advice of Odessybernard and purchased the oem from a toyota parts company. the price was steep ($63.00 ), but it makes sense to get a part that will not need replacing in a year. thanks for providing the exact part number, made it simple to order. there was a mention of replacing the cluster lights to green or blue? wondering if you have info where to order those, and do they need switched before reinstall of cluster, or can they be switched after reinstall? asking because if i want to switch back or different color preference are the lights easily replaced by reaching up under dash once everything is reconnected? one more inquiry, ednelson posted about having the odometer reset by a "tach shop", what is a tach shop and where would i begin looking for one if i decide not to try the reset procedure myself? the description on how to do it was fairly clear, but i may be inclined to let a pro do it. thanks to all for any help with my questions, and please if anyone has anymore insight, advice or suggestions to help guide me through this swap feel free to chime in. thanks again. joe from dover.

wow. that sucks big time. sorry for your loss. trying to find a positive....were you insured?? best of luck to you. joe from dover.

thanks ednelson, i will print the schematic. have not begun to do the swap yet. i need to order the new oil sending unit that was mentioned in previous posts. thanks again ed. joe from dover

hey there linda, you are correct. that is the web page and description of the unit i ordered. good job. joe from dover

hey there jjrbus, to be clear, i did not purchase the Microair easy start. although i did research the Microair unit, the price was $299.00 and after consulting with my friend ( who is an industrial machine electrician, he does diagnostic and repair to industrial/manufacturing machines and equipment ) before i actually ordered the unit, he seemed to think the easy start unit i bought would accomplish the same as the Miroair product. i am sorry to admit i do not know how to "link" you to the site on ebay where i bought my unit. but if you google...RV A/C STARTER , you should find the ebay web page for the seller. the sellers information states the name of the seller DBA, "applianceandair". the sellers location is listed as "Buena Vista, Georgia" (yes. georgia. not CA.) the Microair product seemed very involved as far as install and set up, where as the unit i bought was very simple and uncomplicated. i read reviews for both units and watched you tube testimonies for each as well. i admit, i was a bit skeptical about the unit i bought because it was a third of the price of the Microair unit. but it seems to have the same properties as the Microair. last saturday is when the unit was installed here in Dover. since it was relatively cool last saturday. i had to set the a/c on MAX cool to determine if in fact the a/c was blowing cold while testing. the only complaint i have with the unit i bought is that the paper work that came with my unit was a bit confusing as to what i actually received. there were part numbers listed on the paper work, but no part number on the actual device i purchased. to be sure that i had the correct unit, i went to the web page which had a photo of the advertised unit, and by comparing what i was holding in my hand with the photo ,my friend and i confirmed i did indeed have the correct item. hope this helps. joe from dover.

i purchased a "easy start" from ebay and installed last weekend. now my 2000i Honda genny will power my roof top a/c. the unit was $107.00 shipping included. a friend that is way more skilled than i actually installed the unit. took him about an hour start to finish. we connected the Honda to my shore power cord, and it worked as advertised. we started the a/c , let it run, then shut it off three times as a test. my Coleman roof top is the 13,500btu model, the Honda would not run the a/c before. very pleased with the unit and the results are what i had hoped for. joe from dover

hey there ednelson, if you could post a schematic it would be appreciated very much. after months of searching on ebay, i found a cluster that meets all the requirements . the condition and price was very acceptable. it should be in my hands may 10th. i have a friend that has vast experience with automotive wiring who is willing to do the swap. he would no doubt welcome a schematic for reference purposes. thanks to all who posted here with the detailed information for completing the swap. i am excited to have this project completed. i will post again when it is finished. thanks again to all. joe from dover.

hey there, when i had a new roof put on my 92 winnie warrior, i chose to eliminate the forward roof vent. i concluded it would just be another source of potential leaks and i did not feel the venting benefit was substantial enough to make a difference. i also did not choose to have the TV antenna put back into the roof for the same reason, potential leak source, and i am not a big fan of television, the rear vent (bathroom) with the fan was replaced new. just my thoughts... possibly the p.o. had the same idea and therefore only one vent. good luck, outside of rig looks good! all the best. joe from dover

HEY THERE, looks like you got a real gem. hope the pics are consistent with the overall condition of your rig. welcome to toya world. have many safe and amazing journeys. joe from dover.