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Ctgriffi

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Ctgriffi

  • Rank
    Over 200 Posts!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev/programming, English Lit, etc, etc

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Winnebago Warrior - 21'
  • Location
    Missouri

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  1. You get it all back together okay, jjrbus? How's she idling and running now?
  2. I probably need to look at doing this on mine in the next year or so. How difficult was the job? Time per side?
  3. Just a quick follow-up on this Wi-Fi Rearview Camera project, after about a year's time and a few long-distance trips... I love this thing! Amazingly helpful to have the always-on, clear view behind you when traveling, and I'm still happy I tied it all into the clearance/running lights—easy to control everything and always good to have those on while driving, anyway. Every once in a long while, you might see the video stutter or freeze for a sec, probably because of other nearby networks, but it really hasn't been a problem. Overall, it's a good system and invaluable when changing lanes on the highway, parking in small lots, reversing into campsites, etc. (I'm still pretty jazzed that I was able to do all this, without running any wires across the length of the vehicle.)
  4. For what it's worth... I had similar difficulties with the tool I used, and I completely understand why the width matters: if the hold-down tool is any wider than the edge of the bucket, it will mostly likely pop out of place when you try to pull the shim because the shim will bump against it, dislodge it, and cause everything to blow up in your face, over and over and over. It simply is quite difficult to do this task with the cams in place—I think it will always be hard, no matter the tools. But, if I ever have to do it again, I will try the grinding down, squaring up approach that you mentioned, jjrbus. Every little bit helps! The following sounds like a joke, but it is not: you almost need the hands of a brain surgeon to do this job in a "reasonable" amount of time (whatever that is).
  5. Cool! Glad you found a way to make the process a little easier. I like the attitude of "think on it, then modify the d#$* thing until it does what I need it to do." 👍 Keep us posted. I want to know how it runs when it's all back together. (That was the fun part for me, when I finally got there...)
  6. Ctgriffi

    Week in Bay St. Louis

    Just got back from a week on the Gulf Coast, MS. We camped on the way down, stayed in a terrific little rental house (VRBO), camped on the way back north. The Warrior did very well: no breakdowns or mechanical issues, 13+mpg, and dash AC + roof AC kept us quite cool on the highway. I took it a little slower than usual (58-60mph) because of the 90deg temps, fully loaded coach, three dogs, and generator on rear bumper. (In the full heat of the afternoon, I saw the temp gauge creep just north of center a few times, which is why I backed down from my usual ~63mph.) Overall, a really enjoyable trip! Side note: with newish tires and shocks, rear bushings, and two working air bags, the ride is much better than when we first purchased back in '15, but... rough/bad roads are still very punishing over long distances, like no other vehicle I've experienced. I guess it is what it is.
  7. Just noting that the upper bracket fastens to the frame rail, directly above the axle. Three holes have to be drilled in the rail (5/16" or 3/8", can't remember) and self-tapping bolts are provided. It's a great, well built kit.
  8. That is accurate, yes. Honestly, the math here is not real complicated, if you just convert everything to millimeters (since that is the unit of measurement you'll use to order the new shims). And, keep in mind that the point of all this is to make sure that the shim "takes up the right amount of space," vertically-speaking. Using the numbers you provided: You currently have .008" clearance and you want to get to .013" clearance—meaning, you need .005" more space in there (so, you'll need a shorter shim). Convert that .005 inches to millimeters by multiplying it by 25.4. This equals .127 millimeters. Subtract that desired "extra space" from your existing shim to get the new shim size: 2.76mm - .127mm = 2.633mm
  9. You can do it! I second your opinion that this is a difficult job for the average DIY guy, and I'm in good health, pretty strong and fairly mechanical (not to toot my own horn!). Some of those shims just don't want to come out, and access is very limited when you get close to the firewall. I used the Toyota SST, along with a variety of other tools (including a small allen wrench) to lever the buckets down and get the shims out. I don't think I tried the compressed air method, but it sounds like a great idea. I actually took a bunch of video/photos of all this when I did it because I noticed that there wasn't a lot of good info out there on the subect. But I still haven't done anything with the media... it's a lot of work, trying to edit video and all that, and I've got too many other projects.
  10. Ctgriffi

    thermostat

    I've been happy with the Emerson 1E78-140 model that I bought cheaply on eBay. Runs the furnace just fine. Also nice to have in the summer even, while driving, so we can glance to the back and easily see if the coach is staying reasonable (for the pooches).
  11. Ctgriffi

    Essential accessories

    Good LED flashlight. Mini 12V air compressor with long cord: I always have my Viair model handy to top off tires and adjust air bags. Works great!
  12. Ctgriffi

    Buzz from the converter

    If it's the original power converter, it's probably the obsolete MagneTek 6332 (or similar model). Mine (in '91 Warrior) had a loud, persistent hum as well. Really, it's overdue for a replacement, if it's the original. Newer units are not very expensive and will make your coach battery last much longer, due to intelligent, multi-stage charging circuitry. Opinions vary, but I've been pretty happy with the PowerMax 35A converter—it doesn't seem to hum much at all, although the fan does kick on frequently (not too annoying, for me). Installation was pretty simple, as well. http://a.co/85ype5z
  13. I don't know if anybody scanned my recent thread on this same repair, but AirLift has a lifetime warranty on the LoadLifter 5000, if that's the system in question. I am not the "original purchaser" by a long shot, nor did I have any of the original paperwork, but they still shipped me out a new bag + hardware in just a couple days! Amazing service.
  14. Hello Ctgriffi - Just wanted to say Thank-You for the pics you posted on your cab over rebuild! They really have helped me visualize how it goes together.  I am in the process right now of doing the same on my 91 Toyota Itasca and have a few questions I'd like to ask you if you have time to answer. 1) What did you use to remove old adhesive from fiberglass skin?  2) Do I need to remove outside corner molding screws and molding to install new inside corner boards? Thank-you for your help so far. Even though it's been a few years, your rebuild posts/pics are still helping people who are just starting their rebuild! :)

    IMG_7008.jpg

    IMG_7016.jpg

    1. Ctgriffi

      Ctgriffi

      Hi there! Glad that my old forum thread was helpful to you! It took a long time for me to finish that project, partly because of other responsibilities, partly 'cause of time/money availability, and partly 'cause I'm just very careful/slow at everything. :) So far, it's holding up really well, and I love the stained plywood under the mattress.

      In terms of removing adhesive from the inside of the fiberglass skin: once I had demo'd all the old wood and shop-vac'd everything really good, I just started scraping everything down with one of those 3-in-1 painter tools, vacuuming up all the dust and crud as I went. It doesn't need to look spotless, but you want to make sure that there's nothing loose in there—nothing that your new adhesive won't stick to well. (I think I probably used a mask, off and on, during these stages 'cause the dust can be pretty nasty.) By the way, I don't know if you've already purchased adhesive for the repair, but I ended up using a polyurethane construction product made my Loctite. That stuff was not cheap, when you end up using like 7 tubes of it, but it seemed to work well!

      And, about your second question: You probably don't need to completely remove the outer molding itself, but, yes, you will need to remove the screws that come into the area where you're trying to add wood (you can't add wood to an area with a screw creating an obstruction, and also... you need those molding screws to be driven into the new wood because that's going to help tie everything together). Probably a good time to replace a bunch of those screws anyway; lots of folks just use deck screws since they're coated and rated for outdoor use.

      Good luck with the project! Hope it turns out well for you.

    2. harborbarbie

      harborbarbie

      Thank-you for the info! That makes sense. Glad I can just take out the screws and not have to pull off the corner trim just yet . I just got this rig about a month ago. The previous owner said he took it in 3 times to have a leak fixed from a front bunk window blowout. I think this last leak developed from prior repairs not placing part of bunk floor wood into and under side walls. Looks like they then squirted a lot of caulk in the space!

  15. Ctgriffi

    Boondocking anyone?

    I hope this isn't off-topic, but it does seem relevant for boondockers: We've stopped a couple of times at large truck stops, thinking that they must have some kind of dump facility: never been able to find them. I've driven all around a couple of those places (which aren't exactly inviting to the general public) and could never see any signs or indicators. Anybody have some suggestions or insights for finding convenient dump stations close to the highway?
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