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About Ctgriffi

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    Over 200 Posts!

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    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev/programming, English Lit, etc, etc

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Winnebago Warrior - 21'
  • Location

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  1. Going to check this out next week....

    I second this ^ and would add: timing belt
  2. Propane system problems

    Whenever my Hydro Flame has been unused for a long time, it takes up to a few cycles of on-off-wait-5-mins before it will finally start blowing hot...
  3. Wood replacment

    Terrific tool for any/all woodworking. You just can't imagine all the places where that thing will come in very handy, until you have one... just make sure to adjust the jig (and the screw length) correctly for different material widths.
  4. Newbie requesting advice

    Agreed. I think it's unrealistic (near impossible) at this point in time to find an old toyo rig with zero water damage.
  5. Looking for TV install location ideas.

    Yep, I use an older-model iPhone to stream Netflix/Amazon to the TV, so it should work for you. You'll just need the correct adapter for the phone-to-HDMI connection, depending on your model (research before buying!).
  6. Looking for TV install location ideas.

    Both of us have an unlimited data package on our phone... there are probably some restrictions but we haven't hit 'em. We don't use it all the time, of course, but it comes in very handy sometimes, when camping on a rainy night, etc. To answer LittleShack's actual question, however: I would highly recommend this mount which works great for the size of TV you're likely to use in these little rigs: http://a.co/3bcoAuE Also, you can find the post about my TV install here
  7. Looking for TV install location ideas.

    I stream Netflix and Amazon straight from my phone to my Warrior's TV while traveling and camping. (Rarely anything on broadcast TV that interests me.) Most phones have HDMI adapters, so you can get a nice digital connection to your HDTV. Obviously, this option is for folks with good data plans or consistent, nearby WiFi. Of course, if you find a TV with combo DVD, then you can just do some RedBoxing, sans Internet.
  8. Brakes were good, yeah. Nice and dry in there, so I gave them a good spray-down with brake cleaner and called it good. Only a few thousand since they were redone (just before I purchased).
  9. Thanks again for the help and good words, folks! Axle is done and reinstalled. Now I can head out for my safety inspection and get my renewal completed at the DMV (ugh). The axle stud hardware kit I bought worked out well, by the way. Everything was a good fit, although the new nuts used a 13mm socket, rather than a 12. I don't know if the metal is Toyota quality (i.e. good for 25yrs+), but it'll do the job: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Stud-Kit-for-Toyota-75-97-Landcruiser-79-95-Pickup-4Runner-90116-08325-x-6-/132356861481
  10. Appreciate both of those replies, and I think I'm mostly on the same page. But, I still think the diagram is confusing as heck... it shows the bearing lock-nut being just slightly recessed from the end of the "axle housing" (<1mm when installed correctly), but the bearing nut is recessed quite a bit more than that on mine, and on other photos I've seen. I do see that the bearing lock-nut is made to fit over and cover the bearing lock-plate, but I assume that just happens naturally when you tighten the nut down against it. Not much that can be done to manipulate those two pieces, once they're on the shaft, and you're tightening the nut down, right? I guess that's what makes me nervous: the diagram is clearly trying to prevent you from doing something stupid, but 1) the diagram doesn't closely match my reality and 2) I can't see what you would do differently to avoid the "incorrect, bad outcome" they're describing. Maybe I'm making this too complicated, haha
  11. Good advice. I went with the Timken seals, which cost a little more (still cheap), but seem like good quality. So, another question: I've got the hub installed again with the bearing lock plate and lock nut adjusted (I have done a few bearing jobs before). Can somebody explain what this diagram from the "1-Ton Axle Bearings PDF" is all about? I've looked at this several times and can't seem to get my head around it... just don't want to overlook something important.
  12. Well, good, Derek, cause that's exactly what I did. I figured that it might keep the seal from twisting/warping in there, possibly, with the support of that shoulder. Thanks for the input. Also, thanks for the advice on the studs, Rob, but I went with a kit that has all six studs and new washers/nuts from eBay. It came yesterday and all looks identical; I'll report back after installation.
  13. Can somebody confirm just how far the outer seal should be driven into the axle tube? (I tapped it all the way in, until it contacted the metal shoulder inside.) But, this photo seems to show the seal just slightly inboard of the axle tube's outer edge... what's the correct/approved placement?
  14. I know the PN for the stud itself is correct in the kit, so it seemed safe to assume all the rest was kosher, too. I will post again to confirm, yep.