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Toyota Advanced Member
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About Ctgriffi

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    Over 200 Posts!

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    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev, carpentry, English Lit, etc, etc

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Warrior
    320RB - V6
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  1. Good choice and nice job. It’s a great product, and they really stand by the warranty.
  2. Nice work. I’m 6’1 and have wanted to do this for a long time in the Warrior. Got any links for the skylight and trim ring you used?
  3. Haha, "expiring or inquiring" ? I like it! So, I'd rather not throw out the exact number... but I can tell you that it (slightly) beat out anything I came across on RockAuto or elsewhere online. I'd just call around locally—good to support local shops when you can, and it makes sense to avoid shipping costs on a ~45lb hunk of iron.
  4. You're probably seen this link already, akwcanoe, but I'll drop it in here for the rest of us because it is interesting/relevant: https://www.therangerstation.com/how-to/wheels_and_brakes/toyota-electric-power-steering-eps-conversion/
  5. Just a friendly suggestion: I’ve done a lot of peel-n-stick floors, with many good results, but I would never do it again for an RV: wide temp changes cause that stuff to lift, buckle, and spread apart. Vinyl sheet or click-lock plank would be my preference, in hindsight.
  6. Ended up pulling my box and dropping it off locally for a full rebuild—too many projects right now, and I need to get the Warrior front-end back together and working, if I want to start using it again this spring... Turns out, the physical location of PowerSteering.com is just 10 miles from me. The owner, Marty, was helpful and willing to give me a competitive price, and I have to say that the thing looks pretty darn good, right? Dropped it back in the chassis this afternoon and bolted it back down, easy-peasy. I'll report back once I put some miles on it, etc.
  7. Scoured the web, researching this repair, and discovered that my rig has the newer box (see photo). Then found this quote on Yota Tech, which confirmed my suspicion: ...had to change the input shaft seal and it is MUCH more difficult on the newer style box. You can change the input shaft seal on the older boxes in a matter of minutes, to change the input shaft seal on the newer boxes require that you take the whole box apart. So, shoot, crap... Now it's just a question of whether I want to attempt the teardown/rebuild or find a good reman or used unit.
  8. So, I'm posting another photo (from the top, this time) because: 1) I've removed the pinch bolt but am not sure how to get the steering shaft free from the input shaft (aside from removing the entire steering gear, pulling it forward, which I was under the impression wasn't necessary). 2) I have changed seals before but, despite what you folks are saying, this one just doesn't look like it can be swapped out—looks like the seal is "captured," and there's not much room between the shaft and its housing. Comments and suggestions appreciated.
  9. Cleaned the steering gear and then started her up; input shaft began a slow drip immediately. Nothing else seemed to be leaking I see around the Internet that Napa NOS 7007 is the preferred seal, although Timken and National seem to have an identical seal, PN 710156. What’s the best way to get that seal out of there, once the steering shaft is disconnected?
  10. Great info. Hoping that it is just the one seal. It's definitely the right time to do it, since I already have the CAs and steering knuckle removed and good access down there.
  11. Appreciate the ideas and tips, everyone. And, Ed, thanks for mentioning the adjustment screw setting: I'll take some photos and measure w/caliper before removal, if it comes to that. When I get the chance, I'm going to spray the thing down with solvent, let it dry, and then try to see exactly where the leaks are appearing. I topped off the PS reservoir a few days ago and, without driving the rig or even starting it, I now see more fluid trickling out below the steering gear. So at least one seal is in pretty bad condition.
  12. Finally finishing up my front-end suspension rebuild on the Warrior. Which has been a heckuva serious job. Anyway, while tearing things apart under the drivers side, I noticed a lot of fluid leakage over just about everything below the frame rail (actually, kind of a good thing, in that those areas seem to be less rusted than expected). Looks like the steering gear box is leaking from one-or-multiple orifices, and I'm wondering if anybody's had experience rebuilding that thing? New/reman boxes are pricey. Rebuild kits with all the seals and stuff are available, but it looks like a fairly complex job. I guess some people will start with one of the stop-leak products, but I'm not much of a fan of that approach. Thoughts?
  13. Whoops, you are correct... there isn't an actual bushing on that big support bar (and doesn't need to be one), just the rubber plug on each end of the bar. Not sure what I was thinking—guess I didn't get a good look at it the first time. I still need to make sure that the bar-to-frame brackets are solid though. Don't want that thing coming loose.
  14. Yeah I've got my hands full, rebuilding the front-end suspension of my rig, so I was glad to find an easy/quick solution for that old, dripping faucet. Took five minutes to drop in the new cartridges, tops, and about $15 for both w/shipping.
  15. Not sure how readily available these faucet cartridges are, but I was surprised/pleased to find them at eTrailer.com last month. They were inexpensive, shipped quickly, and fit the original 2-handle kitchen faucet perfectly in our 320RB Warrior. Easy fix and no more drips! https://www.etrailer.com/p-PF187025.html
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