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Ctgriffi

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Ctgriffi

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    Over 200 Posts!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev, carpentry, English Lit, etc, etc

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Warrior
    320RB - V6
  • Location
    Missouri

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I like mine! Check out the usual stuff: tires (7 years max is rule of thumb), scheduled maintenance is important (timing belt, valve clearances), head gasket replaced on 3VZE, test all appliances, test cab and roof A/C, check for leaks and mushy walls around cabover (under mattress especially), any water marks on ceiling, should run/drive smoothly and maintain highway speed of 60-65mph on level road, lots of hard bumps/crashing-noises/rolling-side-to-side indicate suspension needs work.
  2. Yeah, I do have the slider, Linda—I think most everything is there, and I do have a single roller catch, but it just doesn't work very well and has clearly been replaced a time or two, with various mounting holes drilled around that area. I thought, might've been something different in that spot originally, but guess not. Thanks for the link.
  3. I'm not sure that an industry standard exists for screen door latches on all decades/models of RV. I see a lot of this kind around online: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BRJTZE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_-ajGFbX8MXMA8 Which would definitely not work on my door setup... The aftermarket roller-ball deal is what I currently have (thanks, Josh), although mine is a little janky, and needs frequent adjustment. Was hoping that Winnebago had something else in place originally. Something good/better.
  4. My original screen door latch is long gone, before my time. I don't know what it looked like, or how it operated exactly, but I think it might be different than the universal style replacements that I've seen for sale. Anyway, I reached out to WinnebagoParts.com awhile back and heard nothing. So, if anybody has a photo of that original latch—or has found a great replacement/solution—I'd love to hear about it. Thanks!
  5. After reading through this thread, and viewing some of the technical docs... it is a confusing problem. The original electrode assembly, 232784, has a single insulated electrode and an adjacent metal "prong" which is just grounded through the mounting plate to the furnace chassis. The whole assembly is definitely a one-wire-connection-only to the control module board (see page 6, Fig. 10 of this document). So, it's not the traditional thermocouple setup, with a separate connection that most of us are used to seeing. Instead, as mentioned on the top right of page 5, "...Electronic f
  6. Pretty sure this is Old Man Emu not OEM/Toyota... 😀
  7. Just a quick follow-up on the topic of propane for the non-experts (like me) out there: While finishing my water heater repair, I discovered that my 91 Warrior has a handy little gauge plumbed into the main propane line, right inside the exterior fridge-access panel (is that standard practice, dunno?). Anyway, if you open up your propane tank valve for a few seconds and allow it to pressurize the system, then close the valve down tightly, the gauge should remain very steady for several minutes... if it doesn't and visibly falls off in a few minutes times, you know you've got a leak
  8. Had this same, ongoing problem, using a non OEM belt on my V6 Warrior. The auto parts stores tend to have close-enough belt options that aren’t always... close enough. I did some careful measurements and then picked up a Duralast 17480 v-belt from AutoZone: it’s a great fit and can be properly tightened.
  9. Yikes is right. But I shut down the tank tight, ran the kitchen range until it went out, disconnected the flare fitting from valve inlet and let it all sit a long time before attempting removal. No problems.
  10. Pretty straightforward repair. Getting old valve out is the hard part; heat/torch helps as usual. Have to fiddle with the valve rotation a bit to get good alignment with gas line and burner tube. Spray connections w/soapy water for leak test: don’t want any bubbling... Tested new valve twice and got a nice, clear “click” when it reached set point, and it’s definitely shutting off the burner completely, unlike before. Peace of mind!
  11. I almost never use ECT in the Warrior, since it puts a pretty good dent in my mileage (although the extra vroom is fun!). I guess if I were in the mountains often, it might come in handy. As it is, on pretty much any incline, I just reach up and switch OD off; does the job for me.
  12. The shims are not that hard to come by; they just have to be ordered, once the measurements and math have been done, since few local places stock ‘em. Guess nobody wants to have your rig sitting on the lot for a week, waiting for those flat, little discs to arrive. I would think about five or six bills is about right. Wouldn’t hurt to call the dealer and get a price on the job, just to know the upper/crazy number.
  13. I’ve got the same year Warrior, and the red breaker is supposed to feed your roof AC unit, like Fred said. Of course, things can and do get modified by PO’s over the years... That old Magnatek converter unit of yours needs to go IMO; I swapped mine out four years ago for a new unit. Not a lot of dough for a 30A Powermax and totally worth it. In my case I kept the original fuse panel and breakers, since they were fine and don’t really “wear.”
  14. Thanks, came across that myself. Good deals at that place; just put one on order.
  15. Thanks for the link, Linda. That is a very good deal on a new WH, although I don't think it matches my cutout dimensions. Did a little more troubleshooting/testing at home this morning with my existing unit. Lots of gunk/crud around the pilot light and burner tube, which I completely disassembled and cleaned up thoroughly. Also discovered that pushing the temp lever to the left on the control valve calls for HOTTER water, when I assumed it would be the other way around (label was long gone, invisible). Verified this info in the manual; now I know and marked it clearly with sharpie.
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