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Ctgriffi

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Ctgriffi

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    Over 200 Posts!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev, carpentry, English Lit, etc, etc

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Warrior
    320RB - V6
  • Location
    Missouri

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  1. Thanks, Derek! That is the part number I saw, although it’s described in that link as a “frame hole plug,” which doesn’t sound right. I will probably end up grabbing a kit with the bushings and brackets...
  2. Measured that big bar at 33mm where it sits against the frame (bigger than that at the center, directly underneath the truck). Turns out, the one surviving bushing on the bar still has a legible PN: 90950-01654 I didn't see much online that seemed to be a match, but the supporting brackets are pretty much shot as well, so I'm thinking about going with this Energy Suspension kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CN5FBY/?coliid=I1A8RRDV1GDRW9&colid=15KXLPJXGL4BV&psc=1
  3. Old-ish thread. But it's mine, so here we go: I'm in the middle of tearing all the front end apart (finally) on this 90 chassis and replacing a lot of old, very rusty stuff. I got a wake-up call at the beginning when removing the 4 bolts that secure the front sway bar to the frame—3 of the 4 broke almost immediately, without a great deal of force. From then on, it was sawzall-and-grinder, ratchet-and-wrenches, sawzall-and-grinder... and so it goes. I've got a question about #7 on this diagram: big support bar that spans frame rails. I wasn't planning on touching that thing, but it's got a big, fat rubber bushing between bar-and-bracket on one side, with no bushing left (at all!) on the other side. Makes me wonder if this could be the source of the clunking I get occasionally at random times. Has anybody removed this bar to replace the bushings? Any part numbers possibly?
  4. Ctgriffi

    Help

    Just noting, as a full time web developer myself, that AmyDC is right on the money, in terms of the http/https protocol and SSL information she posted. Sites that don’t use https are not necessarily a problem, but many browsers now will flag them as “insecure,” as a prudent warning for users (because those sites are more vulnerable). (It is kinda fun that this issue is filed under “electrical” haha)
  5. I’ve used Aisin on several jobs over the years (mostly Hondas, since it’s OEM); always great quality and never any complaints.
  6. Sounds like a challenging trip! Thanks for posting some real world experience... folks that are hovering on the fringes, just checking things out, need to be aware these old, underpowered rigs aren’t exactly a bed of roses all the time.
  7. If you’ve got the actual “Air Lift” brand bags, there’s plenty of info on this forum about them. Lifetime guarantee on the bags themselves, and they don’t make you jump through many hoops to get the replacements. Swapping out bags is pretty straightforward too.
  8. Many of us have used the KYB Gas-A-Just units on front/rear with very good results. Definitely recommended. Swapping out shocks is also one of the easier tasks to manage on these vehicles.
  9. This thread is a real blast; thanks for documenting the project! I look forward to hearing about the process you used for gluing the filon (and your adhesive of choice) and can't wait to see the walls up/mounted on the frame.
  10. Not saying I'm any kind of expert, but you'll find some ideas on my thread from a few yrs back (I didn't have to get into the sidewalls much, however). I wouldn't recommend using 3/4" ply everywhere: too heavy and not much insulation value. If you can manage it, I'd suggest trying to frame with 1x material (pocket holes work great for this), putting foam board in the gaps, and then overlaying with a good quality, lightweight ply (glued and screwed to frame). Polyurethane-based adhesives are pricey but very strong and weather resistant. Stainless steel screws are a nice touch, but deck screws will do the job well, too.
  11. It’s probably worth noting that 30A is basically the minimum amperage hookup for any single camper/motor home. If both of you are using AC, this would definitely be a no-go. Even if you’re just using lights and basic appliances X 2... you might be tripping the breaker.
  12. I just did a major rebuild on my coach door last month... didn’t start off with that intention, but the more I tore into it, the more I realized it needed a complete redo. Mine didn’t have a wood frame around the perimeter; just a solid foam slab with ply on both sides, fiberglass exterior skin, (surprisingly) tough vinyl-wallpaper interior skin, all surrounded by aluminum channel. The carpentry skills needed may not be advanced, but you have to make darn sure all dimensions are captured at the outset and carefully duplicated, if your new door is going to fit, still be lockable, etc. Learning about options for foam to wood, vs fiberglass to wood adhesive is a must, too. I was able to reuse the foam core from my door, which worked well as a template for cutting. Most difficult part for me was figuring out how to source the ply, at the needed thicknesses, in order to reach a final width that fit snuggly into the aluminum channel (calipers + math are key; also huge amounts of sanding). One of the final steps on my project involved using 3M spray adhesive to attach old FG skin to new ply: in hindsight, I was an idiot to not get another pair of hands to help quickly position the floppy skin correctly. Warning: you have one chance to get that right!
  13. Just noting that 1) a 91 Warrior typically has a 90 chassis underneath and 2) spark plug replacement is not particularly difficult on this engine: easier than some, harder than others, but not super-challenging.
  14. HG replacement doesn't need to be "recent" necessarily... you just need to make sure the work has been done at some point—dealer should be able to look up your vehicle by VIN and confirm yay/nay. Timing belt and valve adjustment are up to you, yes. Both are important (and WAY overdue at 172K, if never done). T-belt is pretty straightforward, but the valve adjustment is a real bear in my opinion (and costly).
  15. Yeah, pressure is what determines the amount of up/down the bags will allow—30psi is the lowest you should go with the AirLift setup, but most of us use around 50-60, I believe.
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