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Toyota Advanced Member
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About Ctgriffi

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    Over 200 Posts!

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    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev, English Lit, etc, etc

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Warrior - 320RB
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  1. Yeah, I know exactly what you’re talking about on the down curve of your cabover area. I spent a lot of time in and around all that when I did my rebuild up front. Here are your best two options for sealing the curve, in my opinion: Dicor Lap Sealant (non-leveling) or OSI Quad caulk. I’ve used both and they’re similar: heavy duty, durable stuff and somewhat difficult to tool (tool, meaning “shape or smooth to prevent major ugliness”). Cleanup both with solvent only. OSI Quad comes in beige too and is half the price of Dicor: https://m.lowes.com/pd/OSI-QUAD-QUAD-12-Pack-10-oz-Beige-Paintable-Advanced-Sealant-Caulk/3664442
  2. My 91 Warrior has the same issue, behind the toilet on the rear floor. Basically, the back wall on these seems to migrate south, millimeter by millimeter, as time goes by. I've filled the gap with Great Stuff foam as a (literal) stop-gap measure. There's not much holding the back wall to the main structure on these, from what I can tell. Like Waydago, I'd love to hear about a better, more permanent, fix for this if anybody's messed with it!
  3. Ctgriffi

    City water intake flange removal '92 Dolphin

    Yeah, did this on my Warrior last year and the city water unit was threaded onto a pvc fitting. Had to access that connection from inside, under a dinette bench, and use a couple crescent wrenches.
  4. Ctgriffi

    Overhead Cab Rebuild Question

    Welcome to the club. This is a very common situation, and there's lots of info out there, with many different approaches. Choosing your repair method will be a factor of time/money/tools/experience. Not saying this is "the right way to go!" or anything, but here's what I did, in this over-dramatically-titled thread:
  5. My approach: Seem like everybody has a stepladder around. Borrow one more, so you have two. Depending on the weight of the acrobat in question, stack two 2x6's on top of each other across opposing ladder rungs. Use a couple of big clamps to hold it all securely in place. Never tumbled over on me, when I did this during my cabover rebuild. And I used the same setup—with the aid of large/small shims—to support the cabover itself, when I was gluing/screwing from the inside.
  6. Ctgriffi


    As others have mentioned or hinted, it's just not worth dealing with traditional tire stores when you're looking at options for these old rigs. 97-times-out-of-100 (pretty specific, I know, haha!) the employees won't understand or have any real knowledge of these quirky vehicles. Also, you will pay more. Better to order a set online and then take them to a Walmart or tire shop that will do the install/balance.
  7. Ctgriffi

    Flooring underlayment suggestions?

    I like hearing about that Reflectix stuff 'cause it's on my to-do list... but I think candycelisacollins is probably asking about the coach-area flooring.
  8. Ctgriffi

    Essential accessories

    Good LED flashlight. Mini 12V air compressor with long cord: I always have my Viair model handy to top off tires and adjust air bags. Works great!
  9. Hello Ctgriffi - Just wanted to say Thank-You for the pics you posted on your cab over rebuild! They really have helped me visualize how it goes together.  I am in the process right now of doing the same on my 91 Toyota Itasca and have a few questions I'd like to ask you if you have time to answer. 1) What did you use to remove old adhesive from fiberglass skin?  2) Do I need to remove outside corner molding screws and molding to install new inside corner boards? Thank-you for your help so far. Even though it's been a few years, your rebuild posts/pics are still helping people who are just starting their rebuild! :)



    1. Ctgriffi


      Hi there! Glad that my old forum thread was helpful to you! It took a long time for me to finish that project, partly because of other responsibilities, partly 'cause of time/money availability, and partly 'cause I'm just very careful/slow at everything. :) So far, it's holding up really well, and I love the stained plywood under the mattress.

      In terms of removing adhesive from the inside of the fiberglass skin: once I had demo'd all the old wood and shop-vac'd everything really good, I just started scraping everything down with one of those 3-in-1 painter tools, vacuuming up all the dust and crud as I went. It doesn't need to look spotless, but you want to make sure that there's nothing loose in there—nothing that your new adhesive won't stick to well. (I think I probably used a mask, off and on, during these stages 'cause the dust can be pretty nasty.) By the way, I don't know if you've already purchased adhesive for the repair, but I ended up using a polyurethane construction product made my Loctite. That stuff was not cheap, when you end up using like 7 tubes of it, but it seemed to work well!

      And, about your second question: You probably don't need to completely remove the outer molding itself, but, yes, you will need to remove the screws that come into the area where you're trying to add wood (you can't add wood to an area with a screw creating an obstruction, and also... you need those molding screws to be driven into the new wood because that's going to help tie everything together). Probably a good time to replace a bunch of those screws anyway; lots of folks just use deck screws since they're coated and rated for outdoor use.

      Good luck with the project! Hope it turns out well for you.

    2. harborbarbie


      Thank-you for the info! That makes sense. Glad I can just take out the screws and not have to pull off the corner trim just yet . I just got this rig about a month ago. The previous owner said he took it in 3 times to have a leak fixed from a front bunk window blowout. I think this last leak developed from prior repairs not placing part of bunk floor wood into and under side walls. Looks like they then squirted a lot of caulk in the space!

  10. Ctgriffi

    Boondocking anyone?

    I hope this isn't off-topic, but it does seem relevant for boondockers: We've stopped a couple of times at large truck stops, thinking that they must have some kind of dump facility: never been able to find them. I've driven all around a couple of those places (which aren't exactly inviting to the general public) and could never see any signs or indicators. Anybody have some suggestions or insights for finding convenient dump stations close to the highway?
  11. Ctgriffi

    Replacing wood in cab - 87’ Toyota New Horizon

    This is a very common issue and can turn into a really big job, depending on how far the damage extends and how thorough you want to be. There are a lot of threads (and opinions) on the subject; here's what I did with a similar situation:
  12. And yet you can easily order the correct, low-priced tires from their website, have 'em shipped to store for free, and then mounted, which plenty of us have done and continue to do... there are very few things left in this world that incline me to visit a retailer and ask the advice of so-called-experts, when other, better sources are so readily available (yes, this forum is a great example!). But that's just me.
  13. Ctgriffi

    Curtain between cab and coach

    I came up with a new cab/coach curtain last year, and it's working well for us! Looks a lot nicer than the original Winnebago-issue curtain, insulates better, and keeps out the light, too. I picked out a "black out panel" for $13 at our local Walmart, cut it to length and hemmed the bottom. Used some heavy-duty metal snaps to attach it to both sides of the cab/coach opening—two snaps on each side (Winnebago used one on each side, but this setup keeps the curtain nice and tight, all the way across). This kit has the snaps I used; just fasten the "button" portion to the fabric (with a piece of thick felt on the backside for strength) and attach each snap-base to the side wall and/or cabover bed floor with a small screw. Easy-peasy to snap it in place when camping or remove for traveling. Here are a few random photos of the process...
  14. Head gasket recall: you'll find plenty of info on the forum if you search for this—there was a major recall on these motors and Toyota offered free HG replacements on many of them. You should double-check if this Warrior was affected, and whether or not the special service was performed (dealer can tell you, usually). Valve Adjustment: Yeah, this is part of the scheduled maintenance, and I'm attaching Schedule A from the Toyota manual to demonstrate this (Sched. A is for vehicles that get particularly heavy use, i.e. motorhomes, etc.) There is some debate out there on the necessity of the valve adjustment, but I can tell you that several of the exhaust valves were well out of spec (too tight) when I did my adjustment at ~85K miles.
  15. I'm sure others will chime in with more info, but this is what comes to my mind as an owner of a 91 Warrior: Check for water damage in the coach, especially around the cabover area (pull out the mattress and feel under it). Some signs of moisture are very common, but mushiness in the floor of the cabover bed or nearby walls is bad and will require significant repair (expensive! or at least very time-consuming, if you do the work yourself). Check all appliances. No reason that you shouldn't be able to test the roof A/C, hot water heater, refer, stovetop, water pump, furnace, etc. With water pump turned on, look underneath coach to make sure water isn't pouring out anywhere (busted pipe/hose/fittings). As we head into summer, I'd also like to know if the dash A/C works. Check condition/age of coach deep-cycle battery. Tires are very important! You want to see good tread and none aged beyond 7 years (date can be translated from codes on tire sidewall). Ask to see any record/receipts that were kept. For the V6 motor, you need to be sure that the headgasket repair has been performed, also verify if timing belt has ever been replaced (especially if miles are 80K or upward), and valve adjustment is another expensive/difficult item that probably should've been done around 65K to keep it running well and ensure that you're not burning up valves. If there are airbags on the rear suspension, fill them up to ~60psi and make sure they hold pressure (no hissing under there). Drive test: these things are slow but an empty Warrior should get around okay with the V6, keep up on the highway at 65mph. Also, keep in mind that these vehicles take more time/distance to stop, but should still have a decent, positive braking feel. Good luck and keep us posted!