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Ctgriffi

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Ctgriffi

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    Over 200 Posts!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev, carpentry, English Lit, etc, etc

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Warrior
    320RB - V6
  • Location
    Missouri

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  1. Many of us have used the KYB Gas-A-Just units on front/rear with very good results. Definitely recommended. Swapping out shocks is also one of the easier tasks to manage on these vehicles.
  2. This thread is a real blast; thanks for documenting the project! I look forward to hearing about the process you used for gluing the filon (and your adhesive of choice) and can't wait to see the walls up/mounted on the frame.
  3. Not saying I'm any kind of expert, but you'll find some ideas on my thread from a few yrs back (I didn't have to get into the sidewalls much, however). I wouldn't recommend using 3/4" ply everywhere: too heavy and not much insulation value. If you can manage it, I'd suggest trying to frame with 1x material (pocket holes work great for this), putting foam board in the gaps, and then overlaying with a good quality, lightweight ply (glued and screwed to frame). Polyurethane-based adhesives are pricey but very strong and weather resistant. Stainless steel screws are a nice touch, but deck screws will do the job well, too.
  4. It’s probably worth noting that 30A is basically the minimum amperage hookup for any single camper/motor home. If both of you are using AC, this would definitely be a no-go. Even if you’re just using lights and basic appliances X 2... you might be tripping the breaker.
  5. I just did a major rebuild on my coach door last month... didn’t start off with that intention, but the more I tore into it, the more I realized it needed a complete redo. Mine didn’t have a wood frame around the perimeter; just a solid foam slab with ply on both sides, fiberglass exterior skin, (surprisingly) tough vinyl-wallpaper interior skin, all surrounded by aluminum channel. The carpentry skills needed may not be advanced, but you have to make darn sure all dimensions are captured at the outset and carefully duplicated, if your new door is going to fit, still be lockable, etc. Learning about options for foam to wood, vs fiberglass to wood adhesive is a must, too. I was able to reuse the foam core from my door, which worked well as a template for cutting. Most difficult part for me was figuring out how to source the ply, at the needed thicknesses, in order to reach a final width that fit snuggly into the aluminum channel (calipers + math are key; also huge amounts of sanding). One of the final steps on my project involved using 3M spray adhesive to attach old FG skin to new ply: in hindsight, I was an idiot to not get another pair of hands to help quickly position the floppy skin correctly. Warning: you have one chance to get that right!
  6. Just noting that 1) a 91 Warrior typically has a 90 chassis underneath and 2) spark plug replacement is not particularly difficult on this engine: easier than some, harder than others, but not super-challenging.
  7. HG replacement doesn't need to be "recent" necessarily... you just need to make sure the work has been done at some point—dealer should be able to look up your vehicle by VIN and confirm yay/nay. Timing belt and valve adjustment are up to you, yes. Both are important (and WAY overdue at 172K, if never done). T-belt is pretty straightforward, but the valve adjustment is a real bear in my opinion (and costly).
  8. Yeah, pressure is what determines the amount of up/down the bags will allow—30psi is the lowest you should go with the AirLift setup, but most of us use around 50-60, I believe.
  9. Got the passenger side bag finished up this afternoon. I would estimate the job at about 1-2hrs, for most of us (always dependent on skills/tools/Murphy). Just as an FYI, I realized this time around that you do not need to loosen/remove the axle u-bolts in order to remove the air-bag (see photo). Some bright mind left just enough room to loosen the bottom two mounting bolts—they're fiddly, especially the rear-ward bolt with a brake line right in front of it, but it can be done with a box wrench and makes the whole thing much simpler.
  10. Update on my Air Bag thread: I noticed my original passenger-side air-bag was looking pretty rough, just before we headed out to New Mexico last month. But, it was still holding pressure consistently, so I rolled the dice and things turned out okay. Anyway, when I got back I emailed a photo of the bag's condition to Customer Service, explaining that it looked pretty nigh to death, etc. and that its sibling had gone the way of all men last year... Air-Lift asked no questions, just sent a quick confirmation and got a new bag + hardware shipped out the next day. Terrific service! Round Two begins...
  11. I didn't see a drain hole anywhere on either unit, while I had the lenses off. What would that indicate exactly? So, I also reached out to Bargman tech support, and here's what I got... "Thank you for contacting Tech Support. You are correct, the lights should mirror each other. Starting from the outside, you should have 2 (TWO)-double contact sockets, with a single contact socket, to the inside. The passenger’s side is correct, the driver’s side is not. If I can be anymore help, please let me know." ^ That response was plenty confusing because, while it confirmed that each fixture should mirror the other, he's saying that the passenger side is correct, not the driver's. I thought it was the other way around.
  12. defrag4 confirmed that the Dorman 522-651 worked fine on his '91 Itasca in this thread:
  13. What about just replacing the whole thing? That's what I'm planning to do on mine, upper and lower. Those bushings seem like a pain to deal with, and the new control arms have 'em already. Upper: Dorman 522-651
  14. I haven't had a chance yet to watch for errant sparks under the hood, but I did notice that the rough idle improved as we neared home. Seems like some of the gas sold as "regular" in NM is only 85 or 86 octane, while 87 is the standard back home—that's what I normally use. Possible a tank or two of low octane fuel could've impacted the idle? TRIP SUMMARY Made it home last night, safe and sound! The old 320RB Warrior did very well, once again, and we thoroughly enjoyed some amazing scenery, interesting sights, and delicious food in-and-around Santa Fe. All of the motorhome systems worked fine, including the furnace (thank God), and that amazing little truck just kept going and going. Here are a few trip stats, followed by a few average photos (sorry, I'm the one driving all the time!). Miles traveled: ~1,800 Elevation changes: 1,500 ft to 7,500 ft above sea level Best fuel economy: 15.97 mpg (downhill, leaving Santa Fe) Worst fuel economy: 10.47 mpg (battling strong headwinds on lousy secondary roads across the plains of Oklahoma's Panhandle; never could use OD) Average fuel economy: 12.2 mpg Passengers: two good-sized humans + 80 lbs of dog(s) Hottest weather: 80º (OK) Coldest weather: 35º (KS) Favorite animal spotted: Pronghorn Antelope (lots of 'em!) Favorite scenery: snowcapped Rocky Mountains Favorite attraction: International Folk Art Museum Campgrounds with open/working bathhouses in late March: almost none (how did I not know this would be the case?) Hairs left on the back of my right hand, after briefly checking to see if the furnace was exhausting correctly: next to none Breakdowns and/or blowouts: ZERO
  15. Here’s a great option: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G2BX64W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_0aINCbTW9X0AQ Another good alternative: https://www.tires-easy.com/185-14/hankook-tires/ra18/tirecode/2001939 It’s an important decision but doesn’t need to be complicated. You’re looking for a size, 185R14, and a load rating of C or D. If you do that, you’re gonna be fine.
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