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Ctgriffi

Toyota Advanced Member
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About Ctgriffi

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    Over 200 Posts!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Old cars, motorcycles, music, movies, web dev/programming, English Lit, etc, etc

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    91 Winnebago Warrior - 21'
  • Location
    Missouri

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  1. Brakes were good, yeah. Nice and dry in there, so I gave them a good spray-down with brake cleaner and called it good. Only a few thousand since they were redone (just before I purchased).
  2. Thanks again for the help and good words, folks! Axle is done and reinstalled. Now I can head out for my safety inspection and get my renewal completed at the DMV (ugh). The axle stud hardware kit I bought worked out well, by the way. Everything was a good fit, although the new nuts used a 13mm socket, rather than a 12. I don't know if the metal is Toyota quality (i.e. good for 25yrs+), but it'll do the job: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axle-Stud-Kit-for-Toyota-75-97-Landcruiser-79-95-Pickup-4Runner-90116-08325-x-6-/132356861481
  3. Appreciate both of those replies, and I think I'm mostly on the same page. But, I still think the diagram is confusing as heck... it shows the bearing lock-nut being just slightly recessed from the end of the "axle housing" (<1mm when installed correctly), but the bearing nut is recessed quite a bit more than that on mine, and on other photos I've seen. I do see that the bearing lock-nut is made to fit over and cover the bearing lock-plate, but I assume that just happens naturally when you tighten the nut down against it. Not much that can be done to manipulate those two pieces, once they're on the shaft, and you're tightening the nut down, right? I guess that's what makes me nervous: the diagram is clearly trying to prevent you from doing something stupid, but 1) the diagram doesn't closely match my reality and 2) I can't see what you would do differently to avoid the "incorrect, bad outcome" they're describing. Maybe I'm making this too complicated, haha
  4. Good advice. I went with the Timken seals, which cost a little more (still cheap), but seem like good quality. So, another question: I've got the hub installed again with the bearing lock plate and lock nut adjusted (I have done a few bearing jobs before). Can somebody explain what this diagram from the "1-Ton Axle Bearings PDF" is all about? I've looked at this several times and can't seem to get my head around it... just don't want to overlook something important.
  5. Well, good, Derek, cause that's exactly what I did. I figured that it might keep the seal from twisting/warping in there, possibly, with the support of that shoulder. Thanks for the input. Also, thanks for the advice on the studs, Rob, but I went with a kit that has all six studs and new washers/nuts from eBay. It came yesterday and all looks identical; I'll report back after installation.
  6. Can somebody confirm just how far the outer seal should be driven into the axle tube? (I tapped it all the way in, until it contacted the metal shoulder inside.) But, this photo seems to show the seal just slightly inboard of the axle tube's outer edge... what's the correct/approved placement?
  7. I know the PN for the stud itself is correct in the kit, so it seemed safe to assume all the rest was kosher, too. I will post again to confirm, yep.
  8. Found this kit on eBay for the axle studs, nuts, and washers. Might as well replace all those gnarly pieces while I'm in there, for $20. http://tinyurl.com/yawxxle2
  9. Right around the same time Badgerbear posted about this same issue, I started noticing it on my driver's side rear axle: wet/dirty hub, strong smell of gear oil. Finally got time to start digging into the problem tonight (and, btw, I'm super-thankful for the great tips and photos that were posted in BB's earlier thread!). Once I got the darn cone washers out, I got a good look inside the hub, and everything is nasty/filthy in there! Can't wait to get that all cleaned up, looking good, with new grease. Anyway, it didn't take long to see what was causing the leak... the outer seal is totally wonky and off-center, as you can see in this photo (sorry, working outside in the dark; poor lighting). When I bought this Toy about 2 years ago, the PO told me that he had just had the rear brakes serviced to the tune of several hundred $$$, and I'm guessing that somebody didn't get that outer seal installed correctly (or, could it have moved somehow?). Fortunately, the inner seal was working great and the inside brake area was completely dry; everything in really good shape there. So, I'm going to replace the damaged seal, and check the bearings and repack 'em. I do have a few questions about all this, for the gurus: I'll need to pull the inner seal out to remove the inboard bearing for inspection/repacking, so... should I probably plan on replacing that seal too, given that it could get torn up during extraction? There seemed to be some sort of paper gasket material visible around the hub (see in above photo) once I pulled the axle. I haven't heard anybody mention a gasket like that—would black RTV sealant work as a replacement? Recommendations? Not really a question, but... I don't know how much fluid has been lost, so I probably better count on topping off the differential when I'm done. I banged up one of the six hub studs (see below) and put a nice, little curve in it, while trying to get a really stubborn cone washer loose. Will I need to order this from Toyota or is there another good source? (Links always appreciated!) Thanks for looking, guys/gals. Appreciate the help!
  10. Very simple upgrade to the old-school, round thermostats that you find in most vintage RVs. Much easier to read/set accurate temps and takes less than 5 minutes to do the swap: 2 wires and 2 mounting screws. Emerson 1E78-140 (found mine for $18 on eBay w/shipping).
  11. Noisy Door Racket

    Anybody had success with finding ways to silence the entrance door? That thing rattles, squeaks, bangs, whistles, etc. on my 91 Warrior, on almost any kind of road surface. Seems like the fit/alignment is just not right; door doesn't look plumb to the opening and also tilts outward towards the bottom. I guess I can try replacing the weather-seal around the opening and see where that gets me. I'm also considering just removing the inner screen door permanently, since it seems to cause a lot of the hubbub... Thanks for any suggestions!
  12. Transmitter Kit Camera Kit Camera Close-Up Holes Inside Cabinet Camera Installed Rearview Camera Display A Few Thoughts The camera I chose has two small jumper wires that can be clipped for add'l functionality. I cut the "blue wire" to reverse the image, to match the standard behavior of a rearview mirror. If I'm being real nitpicky, I wish the camera were pointed a few degrees further down, but there's not much you can do to alter that angle when you're dealing with a flush-mount setup (other than mounting it on a different surface, of course). Still, it's not a big deal; I can see plenty. In the app, you can change the transmitter SSID to whatever you wish... I went with "Warrior."
  13. Finally got everything tested, installed, and in-use while driving, and I have to say that I'm pretty darn happy with it! It's not a perfect solution, but I feel like it's 1000x better than a dummy rearview mirror, pointed at the bathroom (what I used to have). I like the simple installation, the lack of major wiring headaches, and the fact that video gets piped right to my Kindle Fire HD tablet, which I like to bring along in the RV anyway. Also, since it's all fairly modular, it should be easy to replace broken components, or upgrade with new/better. Before I get into details and photos, here's a list of what I used: WiFi camera transmitter: http://a.co/853NJGf Flush-mount camera: http://a.co/g2qDJg5 Windsheld mount for tablet: http://a.co/h2fHGFI TESTING Once I had everything on hand, I used a simple 12V power supply with a standard connector to power up the transmitter for testing indoors (transmitter is supposed to work with 9-30V, according to the specs). The camera is a separate unit, of course, and plugs straight into a handy power connector on the transmitter, so it's all daisy-chained together, and you only need to make one connection to a power source on your rig. The video transmitter connects directly with your device (smartphone, tablet, etc) over Wi-Fi and video is displayed using an iOS or Android app. The app is barebones and kind of crap, to be honest, but it seems to do the job: I left the whole setup running for a few days and was able to receive smooth, consistent video at a distance of about 30-40 feet, with a few stud walls in between. Video quality is VGA (at best!) and the h.264 codec starts to break up pretty fast with a lot of onscreen movement... but, it's plenty of detail for me to see what's going on behind the RV, so I'm good with it. Don't plan on watching any movies with this system. Some of you brought up the question of lag-time, which is a serious consideration. Here's what I experienced: at start-up, I measured lag at very close to one-half a second, which is not bad at all and very usable for my purposes. However, after a few hours, the lag-time seems to increase to close to a full second—not sure if it's a problem with the transmitter or the cheesy app, but it's not ideal when you're in traffic! Still, I figured out that a power reset of the transmitter brings you back to square one pretty quickly, which is very easy to do from the driver's seat if you've got it all wired to the clearance lights: just flick 'em off/on. Last thing I did with testing was make sure that my fully charged Kindle (which is an Android-y platform) would successfully display the video signal for five hours straight, without dying. This is about the max drive-time that we ever do in our Warrior, so I wanted to be sure that the battery was up to the task. INSTALLATION Drilled a hole straight through the middle of the upper center clearance light into the back of the over-sink bath cabinet. I tied the transmitter power cord into the clearance light circuit. From the inside, using the hole saw provided with the camera kit, I drilled another hole at the base of the cabinet, straight out the back of the RV. Then, I used a box cutter to cut a slightly larger, square opening in the back of the cabinet, around the camera hole, removing the luan ply and foam insulation, to make room for the camera's inner retaining ring. The camera is inserted from the inside, followed by a threaded finish ring on the outside (extra pair of hands recommended). After the camera was installed, I plugged everything together and... it worked. A few zip ties and strips of velcro were used to tidy things up, with plenty of room left for towels, etc. in the cabinet. The rearview mirror came down easily with a few screws, and I attached the suction-mount to the top of the windshield, where it holds the tablet very securely as a virtual rearview mirror. (This post is getting too long, so I'll add some photos in the next...)
  14. Nope, this works differently: take a minute to read the post or two above or, better yet, watch the video I referenced in the very first post. Anywho... I should have the stuff in a few; will check in again in a week or two, with an update.
  15. Yeah, I agree about the reliability concerns; I plan on doing a lot of testing (on the bench and in the RV) before any drilling/screwing and all the permanent stuff. The guidelines are not an issue for me because I really don't want/need them—I'm just doing this for a decent view, straight out the back: a virtual rearview mirror. And, the transmitter I'm using doesn't require a router because it basically establishes an ad-hoc network between itself and the tablet, which does simplify things quite a bit, assuming it does what it was designed to do. So, anyway, we'll see, we'll see—maybe it'll all crash and burn. But, it might just be the ticket for me and the Warrior.
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