turtle

Toyota Advanced Member
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    586
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About turtle

  • Rank
    Woo Hoo!

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  • Website URL
    http://www.gothosting.biz
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    0

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1991 V-6 auto 18' Sunrader, Downey Racing air intake, JET Performance ECU re-programing, Firestone Ride Rite Air suspension, Downey Racing rear suspension, 4.56:1 rear end gears, Bilstein shocks, Xantrex Freedom SW 2.0 kw inverter, Onan 2.8 kw genset.
  • Location
    The Right Coast of the US

Recent Profile Visitors

1,141 profile views
  1. Very common problem with column shift Toyota trucks.
  2. Verizon 4G LTE Jet Pac. There has been a few places without a signal but I find that refreshing. If you want absolute coverage (no dark spots). Get a roof bird. This one needs a home if you feel you MUST have total coverage, everywhere.
  3. Oye..... I've done 2 replacements since that one. Now I do not even have a converter as my charging and AC/DC/xfer is handled by a Xantrex 2 KW unit. Uber sweet.
  4. For the past 20 years I have used the 2 volume (east/west) Allstate RV Park and Campground Directory . It has the best and most complete listing of all state and national forest campsites which we prefer as they are seldom used but well maintained. These books are almost impossible to source now as the last publish date was 1991.
  5. I've had 2 done for me, both 4.56:1 The first was by the Toyota dealer and was a gear/pinion swap. The second was a complete 3rd member replacement also done by the same Toyota dealer. Both went with any issues. This is NOT something I would want to do myself.
  6. I was going to offer my help and expertise in all things web related. I don't wish to post my email address as in 19 +/- years on the web none of my addresses have ever been harvested. Greg can contact me though my helpdesk system after which I can get his and he can get my email address so that we can discuss his options. https://www.gothosting.biz/helpdesk.cfm I rarely come on here as the forum software is just too painful to use but I can help if he is contemplating a change. Mike (turtle)
  7. "Man Cave on Wheels" from our drive through West Virginia
  8. Yea, DO NOT circle bin the old reflect-o-lites. They are worth their weight in gold as the triples have not been made for the past 15 YEARS and all of the NOS are long gone everywhere. Not sure how I missed this thread........ I did a rebuild on the old reflect-o-lites on my 1981 and used LED bulbs inside of the originals. I had the triple SURFACE mounts which have been out of production for OVER 20 years. Had to cannibalize 2 dual light NOS reflect-o-lites to get mine working again http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/Rear_Lights/ On my 1991 Sunrader I kept the stock Bargman triples but rewired everything like I did on the 81 diesel with twin brake/park lights and a center turn. Moved the backup lights to the poo bumper using trailer light housings BEST thing I ever did for rear visibility to others on the road http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/backup_lights/
  9. If you can't get your column shift out of park the mech in the column is sticky. This is one of those "protect you from yourself" safety features. Two things need to happen before you can take the vehicle out of park #1 The key must be in the "run" position. This will disengage the steering wheel lock and let the brake safety switch become disengaged when you depress the brake peddle #2 The brake pedal must be depressed which disengages the shift lock. If #1 works and #2 doesn't it is real pain. Typically this is from lack of use. My Sunrader had under 30k miles on it when I purchased it. The column lock got stuck the first year I owned it and the Sunrader sat in my garage for a full year while I "fought" with the shift lock mech. The worst thing was it started acting up when we were way off the grid in the UP of Michigan and the moose, wolves, and deer were of little help in fixing it Removing the cable from the brake pedal housing will NOT fix the issue as the real problem is the steering column not the brake pedal or cable. The "fix" is to use your RV frequently. If you're on the road when this happens you "can" shut it off in neutral which will stop the park lock from engaging. .....BUT...... you can't pull the key out with the shifter in neutral...... So far I have not found a way round this as the floor shift steering column and the column shift steering column are too different to disassemble both types and get a column shift with NO shift lock. I did look into trying to adapt the electric/relay type floor shift lock to the column shift so I could use a dash switch to lock and unlock the shift lever but here again the physical steering columns are just too different between the electronic shift lock of the floor shifter and the mechanical/cable shift lock of the column shift steering column. So after a few years I still have no "real/permanent" fix for this problem The link Linda posted to the toyota-campers yahoo group photo section requires you to be a member so I've uploaded the page from the factory service manual to my photobucket account so that you can view it here http://i1066.photobucket.com/albums/u414/turtle-web/RV/sunrader/brake-park_lock_zps2d535a7c.jpg turtle
  10. Everyone needs two... one for each foot http://www.toymike.com/diesel/pics/toyhouseScaffolding.jpg
  11. I welded some trailer lights on the bumper and put in some bright white lites (rear and side facing). Then in the freed up backup position in the 3 light bargman I put the turn sig, took the inside and outside and made them into dual stop/running lights. Put LED Bargmans in and wow it is bright back there now Now I have backup lights almost as bright as headlights that illuminate side and rear and LOTS of red and yellow on the back http://www.toymike.com/sunrader/pics/backup_lights/
  12. I put stainless braided Kevlar brake hoses on my 1991 shorty Sunrader. Cheap insurance.... I can't recall where I had them fabricated and I am on the road now so no access to records
  13. I have an air locker in my 74 land rover 88 and a limited slip in my 1988 toyota 4x4 (pickup not RV) Neither of these is something I would recommend for an RV as you would snap an axel shaft if you ever engaged a locker on dry pavement (been there, done that and have the snapped axel shaft on the garage wall to prove it AND rover axel shafts make the Toyota ones look like toothpicks). My pickup will hop/slip around corners if I put a little foot into it, in an RV you would bend or break an axel shaft if this happened. Not fun being broken down on the side of the road with a snapped axel shaft. Your diff and drive line is something you should NOT have to worry about. It should just be there and work. If you want an improvement get some lower gears than the stock 4.10:1 gearing. I've always gone 4.56:1 in my Toy RVs with a standard HD open Toyota diff and been very pleased with the increase in performance this has given me.