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TikiShack

Toyota Advanced Member
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About TikiShack

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1992 Itaska Mini Whinnie Spirit
  • Location
    Ocala National Forest

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  1. And if I do it, what's the consensus about repacking the inner one rather than allowing diff oil to do the job? I think I'd leave it stock as Toyota designed it... here is the thread I found- http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3483&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1
  2. Hello All. I have a 92 Itasca Spirit and the diff fluid is starting to seep out of both rear axle caps. I've been told the real problem is bearings. when you see oil, it means it is time to replace the bearings. My rig has 150,000 miles on her. I've been given estimates in the $770 dollar range. Is this a do it yourself job? I have mechanical aptitude but no machine shop. Please walk me through the steps if you would be so kind.
  3. Ive been in the road for almost a month. I'm in Mexico, mostly dry camping. When I do plug in shore power, my fan in the 12v house converter runs almost incessantly. The unit is warm, I guess it is just doing its job. I know it may be charging one of the coach batteries that get charged by a solar panel, which is isolated from the B+ feed before I hook my rig to the shore power. It has been rainy and cloudy the whole trip and the batteries are always a little below 13v. - so charging is going on. But is it normal for the unit to always run like this? It's a 91 winnie itasca spirit...
  4. Thanks. I have such a rig / adapter hose already that is sold by the Mr Heater people and its intended use is for a propane heater. However it does not supply enough gas to keep my refrigerator going. It will light but it won't stay lit very long and it won't cool anything. I suppose I'm going to have to go to a gas / supplier so they can make something up. It seems there is a pressure drop when ever you run more in 10 feet and also an issue about 10 psi out of the main tank you get some kind of oily deposit inside your line.
  5. Ignition Kill Switch Suggestions?

    I have a 1992 6 cylinder fuel injected model. I see no blue wire underneath the passenger seat only a few empty beer cans. The ignition circuit is largely a mystery to me, when I hooked up my tachometer I ended up taking it off the access block used for for diagnostics. There's about 50 wires around the coil and whatever the other shiny thing a majig is next to the coil. There's nothing simple about it. If any of you guys can help me that's great. I'd rather kill the ground wire on the fuel pump. I think that's an excellent solution because the strippers wouldn't get far.
  6. I have a 1992 Toyota Winnebago spirit Itasca. The half size refrigerator in the coach works great with the internal tank. I'm going to Mexico where they do not have many facilities that can fill the RV style tanks. I have a t fitting and valve I inserted in my line downstream of the original regulator because there was not enough room to tap into the existing line between the existing tank and the existing regulator. I want to use a 20 pound cylinder and bought a new braided flex line which has a 20 pound pressure regulator. When I tried to light my refrigerator it sounds like a flame in the wind, kind of noisy. It will not light. It burns for a few seconds, but it starts normally, quietly, and works great with the original horizontal internal cylinder. I think that it's getting too much pressure at 20 pounds. I consulted my RV manual and my coach and Norcold manual do not state what pressure the OEM regulator is, and have no idea what kind of pressure the standard RV horizontal tank is maintaining. Does anyone out there know? By the way the gas stove seems a little sluggish to light with the new 20 pound regulator so maybe it's not getting enough pressure. I am baffled.
  7. Ignition Kill Switch Suggestions?

    Since I am preparing for a trip out of the country, I want to install a kill switch. I may want to connect a toggle switch of some sort hidden and possibly a remote switch as well controlled wirelessly. I'm sure it would be best if using a relay to have the kill switch momentarily open rather than open by default.Has anyone out there done this? And where is a good place to interrupt the ignition supply wire? Thanks in advance!
  8. Thank you, Linda. I assumed that this was an ez job. It wasn't. Clearly these rigs are different by year. I'm hesitant to say that my solution was the only one...but in this case there was no room. I assumed that someone could provide insight. I guess I didn't ask the right questions: is, how do you get the grille off? Do you have to remove the bumper? What's the trick to the tabs from hell? I'm proud of my outcome. If I had a 92 v6, I'd think this thread would be useful. Thanks.
  9. You know all this blah blah blah argumentative speculation about temps and thermovalves did nothing for me. None of it was helpful. I was looking for basic procedural info and help adding the cooler. The biggest issue was getting the grille off. Those clips that have to be squeezed and pulled at the same time are the worst Toyota design feature I've seen. Not only can't you reach them, but I don't even see how a special tool would help. It would have been EZ if someone who had experience would have mentioned it is easier if you remove the bumper first.Removal of the bumper, the signal lamps, and associated trim was way easier than the friggin clips from hell. I almost abandoned the project because the Hayden cooler recommended on another post that i ordered was way too big to fit, whether you remove the original or not. If you don't remove the original, high quality plate style cooler, your second one will have to be mounted on the drivers side of the hood latch and will have to be about the same size as the OEM unit. That would be an external dimension of about 8 inches square, max. This is where I almost gave up because Hayden, auto zone, nor Napa has such a small cooler. I don't know about your rig but there just wasn't any other room on the face of the radiator. I almost gave up but realized that in the lower area of the bumper there is lots of room- and holes in the face of it to provide nice air flow. I used multiple zip ties to index the bottom of the cooler to the lower frame of the truck. The top of my new cooler is lashed on one side to an AC condenser line. The new cooler is also stabilized by the cooler hoses themselves. And to the guy that said zip ties are not pro, what is the difference between the little plastic toothpick sized pass through radiator ties included in these kits, and zip ties? My zip ties are twice as thick! I did not want to loose the original cooler. Its plate style design is mirrored by the top Hayden coolers. It works well, considering its tiny size My new cooler will benefit from being away from the radiator and the only thing I may want to do to improve it is add some nylon netting out front to keep insect bodies from plugging bit up. Pics to follow...I did not take any because my hands were oily. Another suggestion ti anyone doing this job is to have a mini tubing cutter on hand to cut the transmission line. The autozone guy loaned me one- its only a couple of inches long...and it saved a ton of time and meant I was able to break the line in a good place without unnecessary bending. Cheers
  10. And! Will I have to remove the headlight and grille to mount it? This seems the case as there is little room to work or mount radiator ties. Is there enough pressure to run the two coolers in series?
  11. The Name Hayden is on the package but it is sold through Advance or autozone under a house brand name as well. Imperial?
  12. Guys, the cooler I am speaking of is a Hayden 404, recommended on this forum. I understand the basic functions of oil coolers. I need to know if I'm better off to run the cooler in series with the one I have, and what obstacles I have to mounting and hook up. I am a full timer and live in a 35 ft pace arrow motorhome and I added an additional external transmission oil cooler six years ago, that has its own line that opens at 170 degrees, and Devale thermostatic triggered forced air fan, mounted transverse under the frame. I have input and output temp gauges. It works like a champ. It cost me a couple hundred and a lot of time to install. I do not want to do a similar setup on my Toyota. I just want to cool the oil down. I've never heard of a transmission that is running too cool!
  13. I have a 1992 spirit. Going to Mexico for months. Ol girl has 125k. I know that anything below 160 degrees is good. I do not have the time or money to do a full instrument package. My toy has a OEM transmission cooler, out front of the radiator. Auto zone has one for 45 bucks. I want to add it to the existing cooler. Or at least replace it with one 3 times the size Looks like it will take a day to pull the headlights and grille. I assume I'll have to add fittings that are not on the OEM unit and not included with the oversize after market unit. Looks like a PITA. Suggestions or recommendations? PS I Did a search and could not find this info on this site. Just sayin'
  14. No disrespect, but, well that seems like an awful lot of extra work to solve a simple problem. All I had to do was build a 2 inch square ring from a couple of scraps of wood and seal it with two coats of oil based porch alkylid enamel. It will last a long time.. As a previous poster replied , it's no big deal. The roof is slightly more than three quarters of an inch thick. It is still really flimsy and I realize that nobody should be walking around on these roofs. It's kind of sad. It wouldn't have taken much to provide a little more interior bracing. I have a sagging air conditioner which makes a lake every time it rains. There's other posts on here about that phenomenon, maybe I will address it if it starts leaking. For now I'm going to go out and try to have fun and enjoy my wonderful new $50 vent that closes automatically when it rains and has a remote control! Thanks to everybody who pitched in for ideas.
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