canman47

I thought about shackles. I don't know that my springs are necessarily weak and don't know how I would know. My girl friend already complains about the rough ride so not sure I want really stiff springs. I assume Toyota made these chassis' all the same and they ended up with very different coaches on them. Does anyone know if they had different spring ratings available for different coaches? My Itasca is quite long and hangs waaay out past the rear axle which is compounding my problem. It probably should have had a longer wheelbase but I don't have that choice. Just want to be able to pull in my driveway.

The air bags themselves are cracked and split. It's likely the previous owner didn't even know they were on there and never put air in. Like I said, I've owned 3 RV's with split air bags. I've always felt that air springs are a bandaid for inadequate suspension. All they do is level and add nothing to weight capacity. Yes, Sacramento Spring is not far away. Thanks.

So my rig came with the air bag levelers which have been ruptured since before I owned it. I've had three different vehicles with these air bags and they all have failed. Wouldn't it be a lot better to just have springs that can keep the vehicle at the right height? Is anything available? I'm always dragging going into driveways and my back country camping is severely limited.

I will check that out again. Thanks for the info.

It's never worked since I owned it. Always had to trigger the sail switch manually. New motor, fan, and sail switch. There's not much more to it. Don't know if previous owner ever used it.

Like I said I checked the battery with a professional load tester and it's fine. Propane sensor does cause a little spark. Either it's defective or the sucker just uses a lot of juice.

Everything works fine except sail switch wouldn't close fully. I got tired of reaching in the tunnel to trigger it. Once closed it stays closed. I haven't changed any airflow, just gave the sail a tiny bit more surface area and now it works perfectly.

Like I said it's a new battery. Load tester says it's fine. Don't remember the ammeter reading but when I disconnect the propane sensor it reads zero. I guess I expected with a new fully charged battery it would go more than 6 days. I do usually disconnect the battery when I'm not on a trip. Maybe I'll put a switch on that sensor.

My deep cycle battery is always going dead. I put an ammeter in line and it seems that the only thing running is the propane sensor. I just bought a new battery and thought it might be able to hold a charge for a few days but after 6 days the battery was completely dead. I've had to get in the habit of disconnecting the battery every time I park it. Is it normal for that thing to use so much current? Thinking about disconnecting it. I can smell propane if there's a leak. Rv's never used to have these things.

I have the same vehicle and am considering the same replacement. My existing clearance lights are sealed(glued) to the body with an extremely tenacious adhesive. Is there some way to remove them without damaging the fiberglass siding? The old lights all leak and get corroded and I think they leak inside the wall too.

Just in case anyone else has this problem, I found a really easy solution if the sail switch isn't catching enough airflow. I had some metal repair tape from an auto parts store that is basically foil with adhesive on one side. I cut a square slightly bigger than the sail and reached down the tunnel and stuck it on the sail. Works perfectly with no disassembly required!

Mine is the bent one. Weird that both suppliers list the same part# but the parts are different. Mine that came out was bent. Can aluminum from a soda can be soldered?

Hmm, the arm is straight? Mine seems to bump into the tunnel when it's straight and won't activate the switch. I guess the angle where it comes off the switch is messed up. It's more than 90 degrees. What metal did you use for a sail? Guess I'm taking it apart again. At least now I know how to do it.

Since I've had it the furnace will not ignite on its' own. If I use a stick to pull on the sail switch it lights right up but I had to hold the sail to keep it on. I replaced motor, fan and sail switch and still doesn't work. If I pull the sail it will come on and stay on but when it cycles off it won't reignite on its' own. I have to say that it looks like UPS drove over the sail switch. There were tire marks on the package but they missed the actual switch. The arm however was totally flat and it needs to have a bend in order to put it in the air stream to work. I took a guess as to what kind of bend it needs but I guess I failed. Looks like the actual sail had a bend in it but I'm not sure. Has anyone else messed with these?

Lots of good ideas. I want the custom bumper and to replace my blown out air bags. Thanks everyone. Now I know where my next paycheck is going! Yes Derek, it is an aftermarket hitch that was installed for a bike rack.