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ChinookSeeker

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About ChinookSeeker

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1977 Toyota Chinook Pop Top
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA

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  1. Success! Or at least major progress. I replaced the carb & was able to adjust it to idle properly. And the brake fluid I added didn't leak out after lots of pumping the pedal & driving around for about 90 minutes as I got the hang of the manual trans. (My first one of those, by the way. Got some pointers back when I was 17, then took a class last week. So I still need some practice.) Still gonna take it to a shop tomorrow before I make the big drive back home.
  2. Hey everybody. My friend never sent me pics, but I'm in CA with my Chinook now. It has an electric choke and a cheaper weber knock off carb that some shop's paperwork I found in the glovebox said needed a rebuilt. So after trying to adjust it and check for vacuum leaks, all to no avail, I'm now in the process of replacing with a genuine weber. Looks like it's also going to need a new master cylinder. The fluid reservoir closest to the firewall was bone dry & there was lots of built up gunk underneath it. Going to add fluid today and see if and where it leaks out, but this is what it looks like is happening. Also, the shop paperwork said there is an exhaust leak at the manifold - a common problem, I know. Since I'm not at home with my tools and work space (and have a 2,500 mile journey ahead of me), I'm going to take my camper to a shop for the brake work and maybe the manifold too. But first I was wondering: Could the manifold leak cause the engine to overheat or cause any other problems besides the fumes?
  3. Wow - that back window is gigantic! This is a really good-looking motorhome. Looks like it might be a little shorter and possibly more aerodynamic than a hard top Chinook Omega / Newport. OK... I just noticed the author of the book you linked to said it measures 16 1/2 feet bumper to bumper -- that's about a foot shorter than a pop top Chinook. Wiley also talks of his getting up to 18mpg. How about yours? I see it's got lots of storage space! Aside from that I'm guessing stove, sink, fridge... dinetter / bed... maybe a power converter... but probably no bathroom. Am I close? I'm guessing that's your Chinook parked behind it, too. I'm definitely jealous!
  4. Cool. I really appreciate these responses from you guys. I'll look into this further, and let you know if I have any other questions. If not, I'll let you know how it goes out in Cali.
  5. I recognize that mini-RV -- and I mean yours, specifically, MischaT. It caught my attention when the previous owner had it up on Craigslist, and I started looking around trying to figure out what it was, too. It definitely wasn't the Chinook it was said to be, but it looked great whatever it was! Then a couple others just like it went up for sale around the same time. I forwarded their links to Rufus who has the Wordpress Toyota Chinook blog. The ads are down now, but Rufus might post the pictures sometime. Anyway, a couple people identified them as "SR 2"s, which a couple I found photos of did indeed have painted on their sides. When I Google "Ponteix" I can't find anything that looks like this, but here is an RV just like yours that someone posted a pic of here in the forums, apparently back in 2005, which is also described as an "SR 2". http://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?app=galleryℑ=616 I'd be really curious to see what the interior coach looks like -- the floor plan, appliances, etc. -- in case you ever want to share some pics. Happy travels!
  6. Thanks, MontanaChinook! I now feel pretty confident I'll be able to tell which kind of choke I've got. (And by the way, I remember checking out your build thread a while back. That's a great looking Newport / Omega you've got! And easy to spot with the blue accent.) Just so it doesn't slip my mind later, would you mind telling me about that replacement adapter?
  7. Thanks for those videos, Derek! And for the advice MontanaChinook -- speaking of which... Since you mentioned the possibility of a vacuum leak, I just remembered: the seller told me that all the smog equipment had been removed. I wonder if a vacuum leak could have been created in the process? Hopefully I'll know more after my friend sends me some pics of everything that's under the hood. Also, I'm pretty sure my Chinook has the 20R engine, but I should soon find that out for sure, too.
  8. Thanks Derek! But I think part of your second sentence got cut off. You wrote: "Here's a picture of a hoke carb..." So is that first link a picture of a carb with the manual or the electric choke? I don't recognize any cables or wires in the photo. But I don't have a lot of experience with carbs, so that could be part of my problem.
  9. Well, I might have to change my username. Because after a year of obsessive searching, I finally purchased a 1977 Chinook pop top!! Actually a friend of mine on the west coast purchased it for me in April, and in about 3 weeks I’m going to go pick it up and drive it 2,400 miles back from California to Georgia. My friend has test driven the vehicle, and the word from him and the guy I bought it from is that the Chinook is in great mechanical shape except for idling way too high. (My friend reported he had to ride the brakes a lot, and that after a couple hours of city driving the engine was on the verge of overheating.) (Ironically, there is another ’77 for sale in California right now with a similar problem.) The previous owner blamed the high idle on the carburetor, which had already been converted to a Weber (I'm assuming 32/36, but I'm not sure) before he bought it. My goal is to get this camper on the road and back home ASAP. Therefore, I’ve been planning to buy a new Weber 32/36, bring it with me to California, and swap it with the old carb as soon as I get out there. But before I buy the new carb, I thought I should ask a few questions of folks here. 1.) Could anything else be causing the high idling besides the carb? (The engine was supposedly rebuilt recently... Some Weber distributors recommend adding a fuel pressure regulator... Aside from those possibilities, I don't know what else it could be.) 2.) The easier it is to install the new Weber, the better. So when it comes to deciding between an electric or manual choke, I figured I’d just go with the same set up it has now – I just need to find out what that is. Can I tell which choke it has now from photos my friend can take of the carb? What should I be looking for? 3.) If the Weber that's in the camper now turns out to be a 38/38 will I have any problems switching to a 32/36? Aside from that, any other advice (well, aside from telling me to bring bus fare with me as a fallback plan.. ) is greatly appreciated! I've attached a couple pics of my new ride. I should have more from my friend soon.
  10. jdemaris -- Thanks so much for all this detailed info! I'll be sure to reinforce my floor like this too. But first I need to do a similar project that involves lifting the camper shell off the truck frame, and there are a couple issues I'm hoping you can shed some light on for me. I'm thinking of swapping camper shells -- more specifically, replacing a heavily damaged hard top Chinook Omega shell (currently attached to a good running truck) with a pop top MPG/Gazelle shell (currently attached to a rusty, non-operable truck). Both trucks are the original late 70s Toyota Hiluxes. Also, I'm operating under the assumption that the rear truck frames are the same for these two different model Chinooks, and just the camper shells and rear bumpers are different. If the rear truck frames are the same, then my plan is to lift the shells up with bottle jacks like you did, but high enough so that I can just drive/push each truck out from under each shell. Then, if this works, I'd just back the good truck under the good shell and lower that shell into place. So I'm wondering... 1.) If you hadn't gutted your interior first, would any of the propane, electrical or water storage systems have gotten in the way? I know I'll have to disconnected wiring from the cab to the camper. I know I should disconnect and remove the propane tank. And If the appliances and furnishings stay in the camper shells when I lift them, then I know I may need to reinforce the floors a little when I lift, especially if the floors are rotted. But am I missing anything? 2.) I'm also worried about the fill pipe for the gas tank. How do I detach it from the fiberglass? Is the pipe rigid? How can I most easily work around it while swapping shells? Any tips you or anybody else who's done a build / swap like this could give me would be hugely appreciated. Thanks!
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