nooga

I can't seem to transfer the information from Craigslist to this forum, but go to the Chattanooga Craigslist and find what looks like a primo 1992 Winnebago Warrior with a price tag of $2,513. Then tell me whether you think it is a typo, scam or a real steal, assuming the Toyota runs.

Ed--In removing the old decals, what did you use, what worked best and how hard was it? I am now involved in the same project on a 1994 Itasca and am frustrated and dismayed at the time and effort it takes to remove the old and decals that were baked on for 20 years. I have used heat gun, eraser wheel (works best but the wheels are fairly expensive and I've used up three so far and still have about a third of the way to go), citrus glue remover, WD-40, you name it. No easy solution. Some of the stripes (a very few) decals peeled right off),others are so cracked there is no way to get them off without sanding them down and that still leaves an image of the old stripe. If you can add to my knowledge, it would be greatly appreciated.. By the way, yours looks great.

I had thought of the air sealant suggestion but so far have hesitated to try it. Since the valve stems for both bags are on the left side rear wheel well--with a tube running underneath the coach to the left side bag--if wondered it was possible for the sealant to travel that far without clogging up the line. Has anyone really tried it with success? I'll take the risk as a last resort only if I decide that the bag will have to be replaced. Thanks for the advise.

The air ride bags on my 1994 Itasca Spirit apparently are leaking. The valve stems for both bags are located inside the left rear wheel well. I used the usual detection method--a spray bottle of soapy water--to look for the leak. Sprayed both valve stems and both air bags. No bubbles could be seen but I was doing this while crawling around under the MH so I could not always get a good look. Man, those things are low. I could not check the line running from the valve stem to the right side air bag because it ran through a protective tube.I don't think that would be the source of the leak since both bags seem to lose air at about the same rate. Does anyone know a better way to find the leak? And how long do air bags typically last? The bags are original equipment, meaning they are 20 years old.

Thanks all for the kind advice. Again, I apologize to all for the repeated posts. The long delay after clicking on the send button made me think something was awry. As Linda said, I need more patience.

Moderator: I'm not sure this is the proper forum for my problem so feel free move it to the right place. The radio antenna on my 1994 Spirit has been snapped off. I unscrewed the thingamajig holding the stub of the antenna but the stud and any attached wires fell into the wheel well and I could not find a way to retrieve it. Today I took it to a local radio shop and was told that the replacement would entail taking the fender off as well as the dash. The estimate cost was $90, which seems reasonable given the amount of work involved. My question: Is there anyone out there in Toyland who has run into a similar problem or knows of an easier and less expensive solution? The original equipment radio works okay without the antenna in an urban area but not in rural areas, where I need it the most. Any help or advise will be appreciated.

Before I bought my 1994 Spirit, someone broke off two antennae. I noticed at the time but figured it would be easy to replace and decided not to quibble because I was getting the vehicle fairly cheap. The radio would operate okay as long as I was in an urban area but I want to listen to it on the open road. I removed the nuts holding the bottoms of the antennae, the butt end--the part below the fender--dropped down into the wheel well. I couldn't see a way to fish them out so I would reconnect the wires to a new antenna. I would up with two holes on top of the right fender, which I covered with duct tape to keep out the rain. Today I drove over to a radio shop, where they advised me to buy an antenna at the auto parts dealer and they would install it by taking off the fender and removing the dash to connect the new antenna to the radio, which is original equipment with a cassette player. Estimated cost is around $90, which sounds reasonable if as much work is involved as the tech guy claims. My question: Is all that work necessary and has anyone out in Toyland encountered similar problems? Any advice would be appreciated.

Derek, et al--Thanks for the help. I'll study the diagrams tonight and see if I can solve the problem tomorrow. Will report any succeess or failure.

Can anyone in Toyland provide a rough diagram of the plumbing system on a 1990s Itasca Spirit on Winnebago Warrior (they are the same) with the rear bathroom. I have been dewinterizing and have hit a snag. Everything works fine but I can't get hot water in the kitchen and bathroom. The hot water heater operates and the tank is warm. There are two knobs under the sink and I have turned both of them horizontal to the water lines. There are two more small valves operated by a metal clip switch. Tried all the combinations, get a minute of hot water then nothing but cold. Can't do too much experimentation because the smaller, metal switches start leaking in the on position. Ready to call my $75 an hour RV tech but thought I would try forum members first. There should be an easy solution. I have owned this machine for a little over a year and this is the first time I have dewinterized.

Thanks for all the good suggestions and the offer for a new leg. The one I have looks petty good. My local RV dealer sez there is a metal bracket that attaches to the wall and goes under the table to provide support. One of the tech guys told me it would be cheaper and easier to buy a 1x1 board, screw it to the wall where it would support the table. He said some of the manufacturers are now adding that simple device to their new RVs. Bottom line: He said all the one-leg tables are unsteady.

Derek--The post seems to be okay. I'm all for improvising but looking for suggestions. Right now, we are looking for something to wedge into the hole to tighten it up. Will keep looking for other options.

I don't know if this is the proper forum for this problem but can't find another more suitable. Problem: My dining table sits between two bench seats (that converts into a bed) on one metal leg. We can't get it to sit firmly in the stand; it rocks back and forth when we eat. I don't like it but it drives my wife batty. Does anyone else have the same problem and, more important, does anyone have a solution. Thanks in advance.

We need to remove the original equipment jack-knife sleeper sofa from our 1994 21-foot Itasca Spirit. Apparently we will have to take it apart to get it out of the motorhome. I assume a lot of Toyota owners on this forum have replaced their sofas in past improvement and updating projects. If so, can anyone provide any helpful hints, short-cuts and insight into the problem involved. Any help will be appreciated.

Thanks for all the suggestions and helpful hints. Too far from LA to take TooBigBoat's offer. Right now, we are working on putting curtains in the rear bathroom window and kitchen window and putting the more expensive Levilor blinds (the ones described above) from Lowe's in the two big side windows. Nooga

We are in the process of replacing our old metal window blinds. The current ones rattle like crazy on the road, some end pieces are rusty and they generally lack pizzazz, We are not sure yet what we want to install and we are looking for suggestions. We have ruled out simple pull down blinds. We want something that is easy to pull up and down, affords a modicum of privacy at night and looks good. We would appreciate any ideas or suggestions from those of you out there in Toy Land who have been down that road.