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timay

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About timay

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  • My Toyota Motorhome
    1991 Winnebago Warrior.
  • Location
    Kalama, WA

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  • Gender
    Male

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  1. I have seen this one on and off for over a year.
  2. Sound advise, I'll take a voltmeter to it when I get a spare minute, yes the coach battery's are connected, and were recently replaced. I am uncomfortable even plugging it in to maintain the battery's for now thinking it may damage them. Seems the converter/charger replacements are pretty affordable and from what I understand more efficient, can you think of a likely scenario where replacing the converter would not solve the problem?
  3. I bought these neat soft white LED 1141 direct replacement bulbs for my 1991 Warrior. They worked great until I hooked up to shore power. I started smelling burning, and after some looking around realized they were melting! I think this may not be a issue with the bulbs but with my converter because when I swapped the bulbs out I noticed black on the inside of the old bulbs. And the incandescent bulbs get hot enough to melt the plastic shields when plugged in as well. Seems my 12v system is way too hot when the converter is in use, any suggestions or ideas? 32 amp power converter with battery charger series 6300 A Model 6332 manufacturer Magnetek. 1991 Warrior
  4. I just replaced the Lap Sealant on the top of my 1991 Warrior, it was a big job. There was a small spot on my roof near the seam where the exterior edging meets in the rear that some pinhole corrosion had developed. I don't like the idea of using non factory materials but in this case the elastomeric coating was the simplest and best fix. It was easy to apply and I only used it in the area that had visible corrosion; so far so good. I would not coat a perfectly good aluminum 1 piece roof unless it was necessary, I had extensive water damage in the area underneath the corrosion/pinholes
  5. Poly butyl pipe and Quest fittings are junk and that's just a fact. In a RV I think it is sufficient to handle the demands. What I would recommend is using the on board water system, and avoid hooking up to pressurized shore water supplies even with a regulator. If you need to make a repair, use a product called Flair It. http://www.flairit.com (available at ACE Hardware, and many good RV shops, Camping World etc). If you use Shark Bites or like products they should be specifically for Poly butyl on the end you connect to the original piping. Replace any failing piping with Pex it's cheap, lightweight, compatible with most all Sharkbite fittings and proven to be extremely durable. A tip I would offer is if you are replacing allot of piping rent the crimp tool from Home Depot or Lowe's as they are ridiculously expensive.
  6. More pictures I have it back together, I am not happy with the way the back of the skin came out it's still a little wavy. On the front it came out perfect. Anyone know a good source for these oddball vent lids in the Micro Winnibago? I really do not want to scrape the sealant I just put down off to replace the entire vent! They are both cracked.
  7. Wow! Scraping off that Silicone on the roof was a serious job. I used an oscillating tool with a scraper blade to get the big stuff then drill with a wire wheel and about a gallon of Goof Off. If i had to do it over again I might have hired a handyman off of Craigslist to help me with the work.
  8. Thanks for the tip! That's what I'm going to use now, I found some more damage in the cabover but I'm excited to get to know my new rolling home better anyway. I had some of that Great Stuff on my fingernail for a good part of the late 90's! Gasoline takes it right off I found out. I am sure this issue has been rehashed over and over again, I found a writeup using a West Systems epoxy to repair light rot in the cabover area I think in this case the epoxy might be the only solution aside from completely replacing the affected area. I am thinking I paid a bit too much for this rig given the extent of the water damage, but I'm learning allot and I really enjoy working on it.
  9. The floor of my 1991 Warrior seems a little springy not like is rotten but possibly. Is this common, and something not to be concerned with or is my sub floor in need of replacement? I have a smooth side warrior their has been a leak looks like possibly around the grey water tank vent on the roof. Some water has made its way into the siding and it has detached from the body, my best idea is to drill small holes and inject epoxy then use a load bar to press plywood against the side while the epoxy adheres. Any advice on the type of epoxy to use or method would be really appreciated.
  10. Wow thanks for the quick replies! I am not able to find the Thunderer Tires anywhere online for order, and unfortunatly no Big O/Merchants around within 100 miles. I don't want to drive it on its current tires very far, it has been sitting for quite some time. Looks like a little north of $700 mounted and balanced anywhere locally for RA08 tires. As far as the rear duals are concerned does anyone know if they are welded together or split on a 1991 Micro Warrior? Is spin balancing really that important on duals? It would save me $60 if I could skip it.
  11. I finally am the proud owner of a Toyota Motorhome 1991 Micro Warrior! This website and it's participants have been a great resource! Using a Washington State shipping address; http://tirecrawler.com/ Nexen SV820 185R14 LT $74.22PC PLUS $118 TO SHIP 563.32 www.ONLINETIRES.COM Nexen SV820 185R14 LT $79.30 + $94.38 TO SHIP total 570.18 www.Ebay.com HERCULES POWER CV 185/14 18514 $98.99 freeship total 594 www.TiresEasy.com Sunny sn223c 185R14C D/8PR $66 per tire plus $16 shipping per tire total $492 www.busdepot.com Hankook RA08 $99.95 shipping for 6 $97 total $696 www.discountiredirect.com Yokohama 356 d rated $115 per tire free shipping +$60 credit total $630 I have not pulled the trigger I am still exploring some local sources. Does anynone know if I could get away with using ST205-75-r14 Hercules (6ply) c rated on the duals? I found them on local CL for $360 installed for 4.
  12. Hello, I am very sorry to hear about your predicament. I am near the Portland area and I would like to offer you another option I have had several 22re and 3.0 V6 vehicles, and while he may not be the cheapest, he is highly skilled when it comes to 80's and 90's Toyota's (they are all he works on) I have had allot of work done and referred several friends and have never heard a bad thing about the guy. His name is Micheal and he is located in rural LaCenter, WA. http://www.nwteamyota.com/
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