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dwhyte

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  1. I've already cut away the fiberglass, removed the aluminum bumper cover, removed the screws for the grounds, and checked it all out with a flashlight. Mine looks pretty similar to his, but I'll make sure to measure what I can before buying the steel I mostly wanted to give myself an estimate in cost for the job, and figure out what the wall thickness on his was. WR looks good with knobbies!
  2. Sorry, the pilot light lights fine, I just don't have a pilot setting on the oven at all. The burner even lights, but from there, nothing.
  3. I did some fiberglass work installing round l.e.d. tail lights in my sunrader last summer, and I realized a few things along the way. 1) fiberglass is really sticky, I lost a lot of hair on my arms, wear gloves. 2) fiberglass dries really really fast, i used really cheap brushes because they would often turn rock hard by the time I was done with a section. 3) Fiberglass is pretty forgiving, it can be sanded, cut out, repaired, and redone without too much headache. I used think I used fiberglass mat, whichever one has more cross weaving in the fibers, because it looked stronger, but I think either would have worked fine. I'll be glassing in both wrap around cab-over windows this summer because they leak and I hate them. Good luck!
  4. I'm about to do this to my 83 sunrader to haul my DRZ-400, with a couple light modifications. Do recall how many feet into the frame you were able to drive the support steel? Or about how many feet it took total? And lastly, what the sizing is?
  5. Seems common, because I'm in the same boat with the same oven. I couldn't get my pilot to light for the longest time until I moved the little bulb right into the flame. Once that happened I was also able to get the burner to light faintly, kind of like it was on a warm setting, but nothing more. I took the knob apart and I think I put it back together incorrectly because then I could get the burner to light, and it would burn super high on the 170-200 degree setting, then go to barely lit at anything past 250. I took it apart and put it back together correctly, and I'm back to a barely lit burner. This leads me to believe that it's an issue with the control knob itself. On another note, am I the only one who has no pilot setting on my knob? I just turn it to 170 or so to light the pilot, then eventually the burner lights as well, no holding in to manually flow gas or anything.
  6. Different strokes I suppose. The corian stuff sounds promising though, but I'll be happy just to have mine done. If you end up using a pre made counter from lowes or home depot, I'm pretty sure theyre all built on particle board though.
  7. I'm working on counter tops myself right now, and I've never done anything close to it, so my girlfriends dad is giving me a hand. His advice was this, use particle board (I think it's 3/4 inch) because of the density of the material. Plywood will dent and deform if any force is applied to it, and therefor the laminate will dent as well. Plywood also tends to bend when a load is set on it (like your stove), while the particle board won't. The way he installs the counter top to the particle board is to cut the piece of laminate slightly larger than necessary, then use a router to cut the holes and around the edges. He is also a perfectionist and long time cabinet maker/carpenter/handy man, and I know that without his help I would probably be doing the same thing you are.
  8. You might be able to find a new cover on amazon, campingworld, ebay, or something like that by measuring the dimensions. I replaced my fridge access door with one by matching my dimensions to one at a local rv supply store. It will most likely be better looking than factory.
  9. I think you answered my question even if you didn't understand it. The more I thought about it the more I figured that the isolator didn't need to be connected to the charge convertor at all. I think the old one was connected the way it was because at some point the old owners didn't have a house battery installed, so the running truck powered the 12 volt appliances like lights. The previous owners did a lot of interesting (dumb) wiring in this thing, so I can never tell what is factory and what is "aftermarket" Thanks for the response!
  10. I'm replacing my original sunrader charge convertor with a progressive dynamics 4045. The 120/12 volt wiring is pretty straight forward, but I'm getting confused with the battery isolator solenoid wiring, and how exactly to connect the convertor to the batteries. The convertor has two wires that the manual says to connect straight to the house battery, which I'm assuming is the method used to charge the battery when connected to shore power and to draw power for boondocking operations. My question is in regards to the wires coming from the battery isolator solenoid. The original setup had a wire coming from the post as the house battery cable running into the convertor. In the picture you can see the large wire that ran to the house battery, and the smaller wire that ran to the convertor. Does the progressive dynamics convertor also connect to the solenoid, or is this just an outdated design? If it does connect, where? I can't figure out a place where it would.
  11. I'm 24, my girlfriend is 22, and our puppy is about 1 1/2. I bought an 83 sunrader last year and I'm currently renovating it with the help of her dad and brother so that we can full time in it for a little while, while we look for a new place in Colorado.
  12. I actually have the haynes manual, and no matter how long I sit and look at those diagrams I can't make them relate to what I'm staring at in the tangled mess of wires under the dash. The previous owner did some really odd wiring (like having 3 inline fuses running to an extra 12 volt outlet they installed) so I'm slowly untangling it all and figuring out what exactly goes where. I started out with a vehicle that would only start if a jumper cable was run from the positive battery post to the starter solenoid due to a poorly wired and completely destroyed main relay. What I'm trying to say is I work better tracing and testing wires and drawing my own diagrams than reading the manual I guess. I do think you're onto something with the headlight relay though, or the possibility of the problem being in the fuseable links or the wiring in between. It seems like the only place left it could be. I'm coming down to the wire (pun intended) because once my lease ends at the end of the month I'll be moving to Colorado from Arizona with my girlfriend and dog and we'll be living in it while we look for a new place. So again, thank you for all the reply's and help, once it's all said and done I believe this will be an awesome rig/project/money pit for years to come.
  13. Waiter, thanks for the link to the converter. I'll probably go that route eventually, but for now I'm happy with splitting the stop and turn signals to different lights given that I have 4. As for the headlights, I don't have power to the fuse at all, not when the truck is on, or off, or the switch is on, or off. I have run a hot straight from the battery to the head light fuses, but that just causes the headlights to stay on all the time, which is why I currently have it wired to the accessory switch so that at least they turn off when the truck is off. A bad ground seems like the most likely culprit, but I'm not sure where the headlights ground to. Thanks again for the help, once I have some time to collect the pictures and put them online I'm planning on posting a thread in the renovation forum for everyone to see it!
  14. Thank you for the reply, I did what you suggested and it worked, I now have blinkers, brake lights, and parking lights in the rear. I noticed that semis with LED tail lights like mine are wired the same way when I went to pick up some resistors, and the more I think about it, the more it makes sense given that incandescents that have a brake and turn signal in a single lens are dual filament. Still trying to work out the headlight issue. When I turn the headlight switch on everything works like it's supposed to except the headlights unless I run a hot into the headlight fuse the only thing I can think to do is wire them in with the tail running lights in order to get them to turn on when they're supposed to, but I don't want to overload that circuit.
  15. After searching through this forum and many other toyota truck forums, hours of reading and re-reading wiring diagrams, and way to long spent continuity testing and staring at fuse blocks and multi colored wires I'm still at a loss. I realize it's unlikely anyone will be able to decipher what is going on without being able to look at it themselves, I'm at a total loss and any outside ideas would be super helpful Long time lurker, first time poster, and I hate to make my first post a question, but I'm hoping this thread will benefit other too. To start from the beginning with tail lights and turn signal issues, I'm renovating an 18 foot Sunrader and updating some outdated parts along the way. The old bargman triples were basically wrecked so I decided to go all the way and replace them with 4.5" round led tail lights. I fiberglassed the old holes and wired in 4 round tail lights. They're combination stop/tail/turn lights with only connections- 1) ground 2)stop/turn 3) tail, so I have them wired with the turn signal wires and stop wires spliced together and then into the tail lights. The brake lights and running lights work fine, but when you hit the brakes both turn signal indicators light up on the dash (which I expected because the wiring is connecting the two). The problems begin with the turn signals not working at all, and neither do the hazard lights. When I turn the turn signal switch either direction and turn the hazards on the hazards will work. At this point I'm thinking it would be easier to re-wire a new flasher relay given that the LED tail lights are going to blink fast anyway, but I would like to use the existing fuse block and turn signal switch, I'm just not sure which wire coming from the steering column is the power coming in and which wires go to which lights... if that makes sense. The second issue I'm having is the headlights no longer working. If I turn on the headlight switch, all my clearance lights come on, the new tail lights come on, but the headlights will not. I currently have them wired into the accessory wire so that when the key is on the headlights are on and with it set up this way the brights work from the switch as well, but I would like them to work as originally designed if possible. I'll leave it at that for now, and any help or tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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